Another Cardigan + A Swingy Tee

Prior to Covid, cardigans played a huge part in my wardrobe.  I threw a cardigan over a shirt, tee or turtleneck and wore those layers over skirts and pants.  I even wore a lot of cardigans, aka Michelle Obama, over a dress in my Corporate Days.  Add a pair of pearls and pumps, you were professional and ready to go! 

While I was home for 18 months, I only wore the old junky cardis which were also worn as a layering piece.  I haven't actually thought about making more even though I own several TNT cardigan patterns, because they used to be an essential part of my wardrobe.  

So of course in the unsewn cut pile I moved last year, there was one last cardigan cut out. Since it's in my blue color scheme and perfect for back to work wear this spring, I started working on it Mother's Day weekend.

The cardigan was cut from Simplicity 8059.  I've made 8 versions from the pattern.  All but one of them remain in my wardrobe.  The vanilla cable version pilled so badly that I let it go. I love this cardigan because it's a simple throw on, easy wear cardigan that can be made from any kind of knit fabric. I have used ponte, wool jersey, velvet, sweater knit and even made a border print ponte version.

It's everything I like in a pattern. Easy to wear, made for simple variations (changed up the closures) and can be sewn in a variety of fabrics. It's been sitting for a few months, waiting for the temps to cool down so I could photograph it. Like with everything else I've sewn lately, this has already been worn out and about.

Supplies ~

Pattern: Simplicity 8059 which is out of print

Crochet knit fabric purchased from Fabric Mart

Black Silk organza from Thai Silks

Black fusible stay tape from Design Plus

Construction ~

For this cardigan I sewed the sleeves in using the flat application.  My favorite method. It's so much easier to get a knit sleeve in without puckers if you use the flat sleeve sew-in method...well to me!

Also because it was a knit, I used the silk organza facings that I'd use in my last version.  However, I did not add the fusible interfacing. Sewing wrong sides together, flipped in, pressed flat and then the fusible bias tape was added to insure the neckline did not grow...

I also used the fusible stay tape to stabilize the neckline of the cardigan...

Since this is a special knit it needed more techniques to insure that I did not stretch out the neckline or mishandle the application of the sleeves. So I added Seams Great to the neckline to stop the stretch.

Honestly, I have a few challenges with the finished cardigan - I've gained a few pounds since it was cut so it doesn't really close well.  Then I added the ties up too high on the v-neckline.  I've worn it and it didn't really bother me but aesthetically it's annoying.  However, not annoying enough to go in and fix it! *LOL*

A Few Pictures ~

A Swingy Tee ~

This is my Pembroke pattern that I added a couple of inches from the waist to the hemline on the front and back pieces by using the pivot and slide method. When I cut this out, I really wanted an easy slip on top to wear over jeans or leggings while working from home.

However, it pairs so well with the cardigan I've worn it to work this way. Though to be honest I've worn the top more than the cardigan. It's such a great layering piece and I definitely want to make more of them, possibly with a cowl neckline.

Supplies ~

Pattern:  Cashmerette's Pembroke Top

Fabric:  100% cotton knit from Organic Cotton - this has been in the collection for a few years and deserved to be sewn.

Construction ~

o The thing I like about Cashmerette Patterns is that the construction is done with a flat application.

o As always, I add some stay tape to the shoulder seams to stabilize them.

o I omitted the cowl AND the neckband facing.  Instead I turned the neckline down 1/2", pressed and used a twin needle to hem it.

o To make the swing, I did a pivot and slide from the neckline on both the front  and back pieces.  I slide it about 2-3 inches from the fold to gain the swing through the waist and hip area. 

o The sleeves are perfect for pushing up when wearing alone or wearing a little longer under the cardigan.

A Few Photos ~

This is another one of those outfits it's taken me forever to photograph so I've worn this top a few times already. But I love the extra swing in it because it's comfortable...and honestly comfort is more important to me than almost anything else these days!  Comfort with a little style are my guiding sewing lights now.

Finally, thank goodness this outfit has been blogged!

...as always more later!

Paneled Pembrokes

I love this pattern.  I've made six of them because they work for me and because they're so good at highlighting fabric and you know how much I love fabric! I've sewn this top in solids and prints. Using thick and thin knit fabrics. I started wearing my versions earlier in the fall and realized I needed to add a few more to my wardrobe.

I saw these panel prints on Marcy's site in early January. When I found them, I knew that they would either be a Pembroke or a Concord Tee. I went with Pembrokes because I need long sleeve tops and a little warmth now. Also since I'm still working from home they will make great zoom tops. 

These particular Pembrokes are all about the fabric. The way the panels are printed afforded me the opportunity to use them creatively which was my challenge. Here's a little video I shot when I finished the first one.

Jubilee Cotton/Lycra French Knit Panel ~ Pembroke Panel One

I purchased two of these panels and only used one to make my Pembroke.  Will probably make a Concord Tee with the remaining panel. I color blocked this one with some black jersey knit I had from Fabric Mart. I wanted to make the print on the panel pop. Other than the color blocking there are no new construction techniques.

Temple Garden Cotton/Lycra French Knit Panel ~ Pembroke Panel 2

I was drawn to this panel first because I loved the look of the temples. This panel is also slightly longer than the abstract panel above. Again I purchased 2 panels. Because of this I was able to get all of the Pembroke tunic pattern pieces cut from the panels. The only change was that I had to shorten the length of the cowl by 1.5". I think it's barely noticeable.

By placing the design squarely in the center front and back, I ended up with a temple right between my breasts which adds to the optical illusion. An illusion that the black sides and sleeves also give to the top.

Worn with my black hoodie

These were quick sews, made by the fabric and totally perfect for my wardrobe. While they don't fit into my blue themed wardrobe, they do work for my lifestyle. Honestly I have another one on the cutting table in a solid white knit which will work with my blue themed wardrobe.  That will show up here sooner or later!

...as always more later!

A Lightweight Rayon Knit Pembroke Tunic

The season is starting to turn but we're still getting those colder days.  Days when it starts out pretty chilly, warms up around lunch time, and then gets chillier for the trip home. While it seems I should be giving up these Pembrokes, they actually still work now for the unpredictable weather. 

This beige rayon knit is very lightweight so it will work for the beginning of the spring season. The turtleneck is drapey and loose that will provide necessary coverage in the mornings when it's cooler but isn't tight when it warms up in the afternoons. It's also a lightweight fabrication that works well alone or as a layering piece.

Since this is my sixth version ~ can you tell I really like this piece ~ I have no new construction or design features because it just works. This one is made from #deepstash. While the fabric didn't have a tag on it, I know I've had it as long as the embroidered fabric I used to make the cardigan, so about 12 years of marinating.

Construction ~
Again no construction details but a comment about this fabric. I had to be really careful with it because it caught and pulled on everything. So I will be cautious what I pair it with to avoid ruining it. One more thing about fabric choices, since this is my sixth version, I've noticed that fabric choice definitely affects how the turtleneck part works. A sturdier fabric makes the turtleneck stand up higher and closer to my neck. The more lightweight fabrics have a looser turtleneck which hang more loosely around my neck.

While this is a TNT pattern, the fabric choice definitely affected how the sleeves hung off my shoulders. I constructed this version exactly the same as the last five but there is a difference. I didn't notice this when I put the top on. However, the pictures clearly show how it hangs. I could go in and make a change but I'm not going to...I'm wearing it as is.

Also Jenny wrote a great blog post on negative ease and how to use it in her patterns. Some of my versions are made the way the pattern suggests and some are made using thicker fabrics which needed a little more space which I added to the bottom width.  

So pictures ~

Wearing with RTW white jeans

This will be my last Pembroke Turtleneck Tunic for the season. I will probably try the Pembroke Dress with the banded neckline and a shorter sleeve in cotton knits for spring/summer. I like this silhouette even better than the Concord Tee and y'all know how much I love the Concord Tee. 

I've gained a lot of the weight back I lost four years ago. So several of those Concord Tees no longer fit the way I like and will be donated. Its a continual process of upgrading and making my home sewn wardrobe work for my lifestyle now.

...as always more later!

SewcialistsMiniChallenge

I opted to play the Minichallenge the Sewcialists were promoting this weekend. I love this account because ALL sewists matter, to the Sewcialists. They promote everyone who sews on both their blog and IG account. They fight for diversity of all types and assist anyone who needs a sewing group to identify with. They truly make anyone who sews feel welcome in the sewing community.

To participate in the challenge you had to first take a short quiz on the blog and it gave you a power word.  My word was spicy.  Y'all there ain't nuthin' spicy about me so I was stuck for a minute. SERIOUSLY STUCK!

Then I decided to think about the word literally. Spicy is a derivative of the word spice. So I went looking for some images of spice(s) on the internet. This picture inspired me...

It also reminded me that I had a knit on the shelves that looked like this picture.

Originally I was going to make a high/low cardigan but I didn't have enough fabric. I'd already cut out a Pembroke tunic to sew at Sew Camp which starts on Friday. Since that pattern was already out it was easy to cut another one.

Worn with a Cardigan made in 2012

Fabric:
2.5 yards of Cashmere knit fabric from Emmaonesock purchased in 2008

Besides the strips of Design Plus Bias Fusible Stay Tape that I put in the shoulders there are no other notions in this top.

Construction:
- The sleeeves are shorter than the pattern and cut on the crosswise grain because of lack of fabric.

- The turtleneck is about 3" shorter than the pattern - again because I was short on fabric

- The sleeves and top's hemlines are sewn with a twin needle

Things I learned from this challenge:
1. I'm much better at the garments I plan out. 
Part of the planning allows me to think through all of the aspects of construction. To allow me to check the amount of fabric that I have and change my plans if I need to. It also gives me enough time to gather all of my materials.

2. Working on a deadline frustrates me.
When I'm frustrated I tend to drag my feet and many times miss the deadline. The only reason I didn't this time was because I chose a very simple garment to make.

3. Even my photo shoots are planned out
Working on such a short deadline, I'm in no mood to photograph a garment on myself. You know hair, make-up, shoe decisions...thank goodness for the dressform.

So I've completed the challenge. Made another Pembroke Tunic which goes with several things in my wardrobe and I will have a new outfit to wear to work this week!

I'm planning for Sew Camp now and my next post will be all about the trip to Fabric Mart (Disney World) and my adventures at Sew Camp!

...as always more later!

One, Two, Three Pembrokes all in a Row

It's January and cold here in the Tri-State Area.  I hate being cold and I've wanted to sew my own turtleneck type sweater for awhile. Because of that, I was especially grateful when Jenny released the Pembroke Tunic for Cashmerette Patterns. My first one was from a wool knit that I've worn quite a bit since making it.  

During the MLK Holiday Weekend, I made three more of them. Grab a cup of your favorite beverage and settle in. I've included them all in this post instead of three separate posts, because I'm not writing three different ones! Due to that, this is a picture heavy post with quite a bit of commentary...

Pembroke Tunic One ~ The French Terry Version

I purchased this piece of french terry from one of those little dress shops that line the garment district side streets. It was owned by an older Orthodox Jewish gentlemen. They were closing the store and selling the excess pieces of fabric. I bought this piece and another one for $10. While it's not new, it has been in the collection for almost three years. 

When I was floundering during my holiday break, I thought that if I made a quick project it would jumpstart my sewing mojo. I got the top made but it didn't spur me on to sew and the insides weren't finished. So when I decided to make more of these, this one needed all of the finishing done to the insides of the top.

I am glad that I ended up with this new top. It's the most basic of all of my versions but a wonderful addition to the wardrobe.

Some pictures ~

Pembroke Tunic Two ~ A Paisley Felted Wool Jersey

This fabric is OLD. I bought about 7 yards of this from Fabric Mart back when felting wool jersey was H-U-G-E! My intent was to make a twinset using the felted piece as the cardigan and the unfelted piece as the top underneath. 

(felted on the left/unfelted on the right)

After putting the wool jersey through the felting process, it lost all of it's color and vibrancy. I was totally unprepared for this because it had never happened before. As you can see above, the difference between the felted and unfelted pieces was too great for my original idea so I put them on the shelf to wait for inspiration.

This piece counts as #deepstash since it's at least 12 years old! YES!!! Also since its felted, I'm sure it's going to be really warm. Due to the bulk of the fabric, this version has the cowl that stands furthest away from my neck but it will be okay when wearing.

Some pictures ~ 

Yes, I'm wearing gray sneakers. My sneaker collection has gotten quite deep. When I find a pair I like, I tend to buy more than one color. This pair is from The Avenue and is on sale now. I own them in black and gray and they have a velcro strap that I think is AMAZING! Though my daughter called them toddler sneakers! LOL! 

Worn with Butterick 6389 felted wool vest from 2017

This is the first of my 10 #deepstash garments for 2019. I'm thrilled with that!


Pembroke Tunic Three ~ Black & White Version

When scrounging through the 

fabric bins looking for a piece to make another Dover Jacket, I touched this piece and automatically thought Pembroke. My only challenge was that I didn't have enough fabric to make a tunic with long sleeves. Since it was black 'n white doubleknit, I knew it would work with black ponte and I have a small stash of it on hand. Cause you always need black ponte - ALWAYS!

This fabric wasn't tagged and I don't know how that happened! I have no idea where it came from but I'm thinking its NOT Fabric Mart, maybe Metro Textiles. There's only 2 yards of it and it's been in the collection for at least 2-3 years since I don't remember purchasing it recently. So not deep stash but definitely not new.

After laying the tunic pattern pieces out, I realized that I would be scrimping on the cowl. I decided to cut both the sleeves and the cowl out of the black ponte creating a colorblocked look. I plan on wearing it under my black hoodie to add another layer of warmth.

Some pictures ~

I'm happy to have three new layering pieces to add to my closet especially with the temperatures in the teens. I'm putting this pattern away for a minute. I've made four of them and I'm ready for a new sewing adventure now.

...as always more later!  

Cashmerette Pembroke Tunic in a Wool Knit

I've been looking for a turtleneck pattern that I wouldn't have to do a lot of work on.  The Pembroke pattern while not a true turtleneck, is close enough for me to use to make a couple of layering pieces this fall/winter.

This is a simple sew. I used the shoulder seams for size 22, bust and waist size 24 and hip size 26. The bust cup is a C/D.

The fabric is from Gaylen's fabric collection. She was going to add it to her pile of giveaway fabric for the Baltimore Destash. I rescued it instead! It's a panel border print wool knit that I used 2.5 panels for the tunic.

I added seam tape to the shoulder seams and used a double needle to sew the sleeve and bottom hems. That's the only construction information, so a few pictures.

This was my trial make. I'm going to make a couple of adjustments to the pattern (shoulder, widthwise and length) then make a few more. This top will make a great layering piece for winter and its just what I need to add to my wardrobe.

Here it is with one of my first Simplicity 8059 cardigans and how I will wear it.

This version is a great jump off for future makes. I'm sure a few more will show up here in the upcoming months!


...as always more later!