A Vest

I started this vest in May 2019, y'know in the before times. It began life as a jacket. Then it sat because I had a challenge with the sleeves. I did move this unfinished project with me in 2020 and for the last five years it's been hanging in the sewing loft.

Honestly, it hung there until earlier this spring when I realized that with the weight I've lost it would fit again. By then the sleeves had gone missing and when reassessing, I thought it would make a great vest. Also, the amount of work I had already put into this piece made it hard to let go. 

It's made from a navy linen I bought from Fabric Mart's brick 'n mortar store during a Sew Camp. I added some navy/white gingham scraps to the pocket flaps and back neck facing. I also added navy gingham bias binding to the front facings.

Some of the construction was blogged about back in May 2019.  I'm not gonna send you back there, I'm just gonna share it here. 

First here is a construction picture...

I removed one breast pocket. They just weren't laying right. I did the same thing when I first made jacket so maybe these breast pockets don't play well with my body...or I'm just not skilled enough to get two pockets to lay right on a jacket...whatever! Three works.

When I picked it back up it looked like this...

I did so much work with the topstitching and lining the pocket flaps in navy gingham...

There wasn't much left to complete it. I added bias binding to the armholes to finish them.  Then I added bias binding to the hemline before hand stitching it down.  

Made buttonholes and buttons...then stitched the buttons on.  Finally gave it a good press.

Here are some photos of the finished garment...

It's a great transition piece so glad I added it to my vest collection. I have several more I want to make for fall/winter using actual vest patterns so stay tuned!

*I know Blogger has made it more challenging to sign in but would you kindly sign your name if you use anonymous.  It makes it easier to talk back to you.  Thanks so much!

Border Print TNT Shirt

I only own one me-made white shirt. It works for everything so there's no problem with it.  But I started to dream of white shirts that had some kind of design or print on them.  Over last year's Thanksgiving break, I pulled three fabrics from the collection to make this work.

The first one I worked on was inspired by a Coldwater Creek shirt. 

I had five yards of a double border print purchased from Fabric Mart in 2022. 

I started with the TNT version of my shirt pattern used to created my Mood Border print Shirt.  This fabric didn't need as elaborate a cut out but I didn't want a seamline on my front piece. The continuity of the print was important to me.  

I've made about 40 shirts during the last decade. I have plans to make many more.  Shirts work for my lifestyle and I can use the most amazing prints/panels/designs to create unique garments.  Since I have a TNT pattern with many different moving pieces, I can pretty much achieve any look I want.  However, that doesn't mean that I don't have at least a dozen other shirt patterns in my pattern stash.

So some photos from the cutting out process...

Here is the pleating process used on the shirt back.

I started with 1" pleats.  But using 1" pleats didn't take up enough fabric to meet the back yoke.  

Next I moved to 1.5" pleats.  Again, no go. So, I moved to 2" pleats and wallah that worked.

To secure the pleats, I basted across the top of the shirt back.  Then pressed the pleats flat.  Finally I pressed with spray starch to insure the pleats will hold. I also added a line of stitching at the edge of every pleat to help it hold it's shape.

That was the most complicated part of the shirt and took several days to complete because the frustration was real!

The rest of the construction was my normal process. Now with the weight loss it's an oversized shirt. Also, I promise to stop talking about my weight loss but right now it's like a living breathing thing that affects everything daily.

Here are a few photos of the finished garment...

(and yes this is a hair piece added to my ponytail)

Conclusion ~ 

I should have used the pattern that I based this shirt upon.  Not everything has to be remade by me! Sometimes I should stick with the experts.*LOL* Especially since I rifled through my pattern collection to donate some patterns at the Black Sewing Network Event and found the original! 

Les Lubies DeCadia Saxa Shirt

Wearability Report:

After my daughter took photos of this shirt, I wore it to work the next day. A few things, it didn't take long for the pleats to be come looser, wrinkled and lose their crispness with the wearing. It made a loose wearing shirt, even looser. To wear this shirt again, it will need some serious pressing to bring back the original crispness of the shirt.

Also I received several compliments regarding the shirt from women passing me on the street and when I went to Macy's to pick up a few things.

I won't be making this shirt again without using the pattern.  It's a one and done!

*I know Blogger has made it more challenging to sign in but would you kindly sign your name if you use anonymous.  It makes it easier to talk back to you.  Thanks so much!

...as always more later!

Florals and Eyelets Myosotis Dress

I bought this fabric from Marcy Tilton last year.  It was a subscriber special that was so beautiful I couldn't leave it. I hadn't seen anything like it before. So, I bought it even though I wasn't sewing much because I knew it wouldn't last. 

There are a lot of pictures in this post both for construction and finished shots. One, this dress turned out so much better than I imagined it! Two, I wanted to memorialize the construction for future me.

That eyelet embroidered floral cotton became this...

Yes, another Myosotis dress but the first one in my smaller size.  I know it's late in the year to be making a cotton eyelet dress but we still have a few more days of 80 degree days.  Also, the darker floral print makes it perfect for late summer/early fall wearing.

Supplies...

4 yards of a cotton printed eyelet from Marcy Tilton

10 clear/purple buttons from my M&J Trimmings button hauls

1 - 11/16" gold snap originally purchased from Fabric Mart via the snap stash

Baby knit interfacing via the interfacing stash originally purchased from Farmhouse Fabrics

Several yards of beige Snug Hug rayon seam binding

Decision Making ~

• Sewing eyelet fabric is always interesting because of the eyelets.  
• I used a smaller stitch length - 2.5 on my Janome to make sure I had enough stitches per inch to hold the seams together so they didn't separate. 
• Then I did sewing machine and serger thread tests to match the threads as closely as possible to the background fabric.  
• I also did a fusible interfacing vs. silk organza test to see which one I liked best for the collar, undercollar and button bands. The fusible interfacing won.
• Seam finishing was very important to me because I didn't want serged edges to show through the eyelet.  I went with an enclosed or french seams on the skirt and bodice side seams.
• For the button bands, sleeve and skirt hems I enclosed them using hug snug hem tape. I thought about using the snug hug on the finished waist band seam.  It wasn't necessary and gave up the idea because the serged waistband seam was enough. It also did not show through the dress.
• 
  
• 
  
  
• I did serge the sleeve underarm seam because who is going to see it.  I also serged the armhole seam. I didn't think I would be comfortable with the snug hug seam binding on the armhole edges.
• I also used the button band sample below to make a couple of sample buttonholes so I could see how the fabric took to the buttonholes or if I would need to come up with another idea. 

Here is a photo of all the samples I made before I started to sew...

(from my Instagram stories)

There are no new construction techniques in this dress. However, here are a few construction photos of making the bodice:

Binding the shoulder and front facings with hug snug 

bias tape and french seams on the side

Front finished before adding the collar

Bodice finished with the collar

There are a lot of "couture" techniques to make the dress sturdy on the inside. I also hand sewed the sleeve and skirt hems. It allowed me to hide the stitches in the fabric. The clean finishing on the inside was important to me because of the fabric.

Here are a few photos of the finished dress...

One more thing to note - I'm wearing a beige colored slip from Spanx underneath the dress. That's why you can't see anything from the eyelet holes.  

Now that my sewjo is back and chomping at the bit to create, I have so many things I want to make for fall/winter. For my next project I was supposed to start another fall dress but that project probably has been pushed until next spring.

I'm also removing items from my closet.  Garments that are too big for me now but I'm loath to donate them.  What happens if I gain the weight back?  Then I'm starting all over again.  Luckily I was to lazy to donate my smaller sized garments and now I have them all to wear again.  So while I'm removing the others, they sit in limbo.

I have two more posts after this one.  A vest that I've mentioned before and a white border print shirt that I can't wait to wear. I'm working on a shirt that I've stopped and started several times for various reasons but I KNOW it's time has come.  So that's what's on my sewing table.  What's on yours?

...as always more later!

Inspired by...

This dress is totally inspired by a dress I saw on an Avenue ad in my Instagram feed. Because honestly, at this stage of my life I'm not walking away from a flowy dress especially since COMFORT and then style are the driving forces of what I'm wearing.

...and my version of the dress

Now the dress is regularly priced $80 and since the summer season is coming to an end it's $44 so I could have bought it.  But I already own a similar fabric and patterns to make this dress. All I needed was time and the materials I on hand instead of spending money.

Materials:

4.5 yards of a lightweight crinkle rayon linen purchased last year in Chicago from Rainbow Fabrics

3 - 5/8" buttons purchased from Pacific Trimmings via the button collection

1/4 yard of lightweight interfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller

1/4 yard black bias tape from the stash

Patterns:

Top is made in a size 20 using the Deer & Doe Myosotis bodice

Tiered skirt made from the Style Arc Nova tiers - size 20

Construction:

• I deliberately chose a size 20 to make this dress.  I wanted a flowy dress for late summer but I don't need all of the space of my previous makes. I'm back to using the size 20 myosotis bodice so I matched the same size skirt tiers.
• My change to the design is to add straight sleeves.  Wasn't really thrilled with the tabbed sleeves, not a look I like and this allowed a cleaner look where the print did all the talking.
• Also, I added 4" to the bottom tier in my original Nova (that no longer fits btw) but with the weight loss I don't need to add the additional 2" I talked about in my original post.  This length works now. 
• The other change to the dress is I didn't add the collar. So to enclose the back neckline seam, I cut out a fuller back facing. 
• My first thought was too bias bind the back neckline but after I thought about it a fuller back interfaced facing would give the dress some structure...and leave me a place to add my tag along with a size tag. After doing that I realized the neckline front wasn't covered.  I needed to figure out a way to enclose it.

That led to some bad patching...I mean it works but it's not the clean finish I usually have in a garment. Also, that back facing was flopping around so it needed to be stitched flat.  Because of the print you can't see this detail but that's okay.

Otherwise, this was a straight forward sew.  Just lots and lots of gathering!

A few photos of the finished dress:

Wearability Report ~

This was the most comfortable easiest dress to wear.  Because yes, I've worn it twice already.  However, the fabric has started to pill slightly under the arms and on the dress sides from the rubbing of my purse. It's interesting because when I purchased this fabric nothing about it said that it would pill...yet here we are. I'm monitoring it but I've put this away for next spring/summer. 

Y'all I wanted to say thank you for going back and reading past posts.  I've been blogging here for 19 years (can you believe it?!) and to know that my words aren't just laying here dormant is such an honor for me. So, THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!

*I know Blogger has made it more challenging to sign in but would you kindly sign your name if you use anonymous.  It makes it easier to talk back to you.  Thanks so much!

...as always more later!

Rewind it Back - New Look 6340

I've seriously been walking down memory lane of my previous makes.  Part of it is because I don't wanna fit a new pattern.  Part of it is because these garments worked for me and I need that in this updated body. So, today I'm revisiting New Look 6340 which is still in Simplicity's catalog. This is my newest version.

Between 2017 and 2020 - I made seven garments from this pattern - 2 sleeveless maxi dresses, 1 tunic, and 4 different dress versions.  My favorite was this denim version:

I wore this one and the linen versions the most.  And only one still lives in my closet - this maxi version.

Supplies ~

3 yards of a midweight linen print from Mood Fabrics online purchased several years ago

22" light blue zipper from the zipper stash

2 7/8" black buttons from deep in the button stash

2 yards of black piping from Daytona Trimming via the trim stash

Construction ~

Thankfully, when I pulled the pattern out of the folder, all of the alterations had been done to the main pattern pieces. There was even the maxi version in pattern form.  So, happy about old me now.

The only change I made was to add a 1/2" to each sleeve side seam. I remember these sleeves as snug fitting and wanted to make sure that they didn't look tight on my even more bodacious biceps.

I added piping to the neckline, sleeve hems and pockets.

The pockets were getting lost in the busy print.  So added piping along with 

the black buttons to make the pockets stand out.

Added a facing to the sleeve hems to encase the piping.

Otherwise, it was a simple sew.

Wearability ~

I wore this dress to work this week and took pictures in my office.  This dress was comfortable to wear, however, because of the fabric's weight, it's not as drapey as I would like.  The thing that bothered me was that it tended to bunch at my knees when the wind was blowing. Otherwise, it was a good wear.

A few more photos ~

I'm glad I reused this pattern.  Since I own loads of linen for future makes, I will definitely sew this again next spring/summer.

*I know Blogger has made it more challenging to sign in but would you kindly sign your name if you use anonymous.  It makes it easier to talk back to you.  Thanks so much!*

...as always more later!