Friday, August 15, 2014

Linings...

Lately I've been cutting my linings out after I've assembled my garment.  I started doing this because I wanted to make sure that I captured any changes I made to my garment shell.  However, I've found that while this is practical, it makes me drag my feet when I'm finishing up a garment. I think more than finishing a garment (hemming), I don't like cutting out.  Stupid right? Because you can't sew if you don't cut out...but there it is...I don't like it.

Because of this, I use to cut linings out when I cut out the fashion fabric. Anything to speed the process along and get me to the good stuff ~ which was sewing the garment together!  It did seem to make everything move along faster.  When the garment shell was done, I just reached for the already serge finished lining pieces, sewed them up and added them to my garment.

Somewhere in there I changed this order.  In the beginning it worked for me, but lately when I realize I have to cut and finish lining pieces...I stop. Seriously come to a dead stop.  Because of this I'm reconsidering the order I cut and sew linings again.

So here's the question of the day...when do you cut your linings out?  At the beginning when you cut out your fashion fabric?  Or at the end, after the garment's been assembled?  And why do you do it either way? Is there a "correct" sewing gods approved method?  Did I forget some sewing lesson taught to me years ago?  Talk back to me because this is the "Question of the Day!"

...as always more later!

46 comments:

  1. I do both. If it is a pattern that I've used before and have all adjustments marked, I'll cut the lining then. If I've never used the pattern before, even after making alterations and adjustments to the paper pattern, I wait till I know the shell fits. By the by, I hate cutting out too.

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  2. I cut the lining when I cut my fashion fabric. I hate cutting with a passion so I just want to get it over with. I don't mind fixing it a thousand times later but I enjoy altering. Go figure.

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  3. Together--for the same reason you initially did, just to get an unpleasant chore over with. But also because I like to keep the patterns pieces and the fabrics together as long as possible, just to eliminate confusion, make sure I've noted all the marking, and keep things from stretching or slithering out of shape. i"m a mess-maker at heart, so anything that helps with keeping order is a good thing.

    Btw, a belated thank you for your book recommendations: The Bishop method book is helpful, and I love the Shaeffer book of sewing shortcuts, which as you said is not about shortcuts at all, but a great explication of technique. So thank you!

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  4. Together - to get the job done. I don't like cutting out, especially lining. Then, any alterations I transfer to the lining. There usually are not many if I have made a muslin first.

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  5. I tend to make muslins first for fitted garments. Assuming all fit issues have been solved I move on to my fashion and lining fabric, cutting everything else out at once.

    Cutting takes me awhile, while sewing and assembling seems to be the fastest (or at least I perceive it that way) so I like to get all of the mundane steps out of the way first so I can get to the good part. This aversion to the mundane also leads me to not hem or finish certain interior seams (nobody will see, right?)

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  6. I really dislike cutting too! So I cut both together at the same time. Since I'm (still) a muslin-maker this works fine for me, because I have my fit issues mostly worked out by cutting time.

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  7. Together with the fabric and inter facings, I like to get it done and out of the way. I think that's how I was taught back when, get all the prep done before you start stittching.

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  8. When I made the Sew Chic Fifth Avenue dress, I used a cheap print lining as the muslin to check SBA fit. Consequently, I have the fugliest lining print in the world for that dress. Because no one, including me, likes cutting out the lining.

    Which doesn't make sense to me. If I'm making a pocket, I spend a fair amount of time picking a fabric for it, and often lining up something in the print to peek out. I certainly want the lining to feel nice. I do like to use prints if I'm pretty sure they won't show through. And I will overthink motif placement in the inside back of a jacket.

    Poor lining gets no respect!

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  9. As another commenter says, I like to keep the pattern pieces with the garment piece as long as possible, so have always cut the lining later, making note of any changes I have made. Lately I have tried another direction, cutting lining first and making it the muslin. When that is sorted, I go to cutting out the finished product. Sewing is a continuing journey, isn't it?

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  10. At school the instructors always told us to cut the lining out after the first fitting as there usually are some changes in fittings and then the lining will be all wrong if it needs changes as well. But my seamstress mentor/sewing mom cuts out the lining in the start so..I usually use both methods depending on my mood. If I'm sewing for myself and I'm using a pattern I've already used before and have fixed all the fit issues previously, I cut the lining out right at the start(mainly cause my table is already clean and has enough space so I'll take advantage of that)

    And I'm actually that weird person who likes cutting. I love the whole sewing process(except finishing stuff like hemming, buttonholes, sewing buttons)

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  11. Gosh I love cutting out, though at the beginning the anticipation of making a garment, I find it very rewarding starting off with yards of material and ending up with a neat little pile of fabric pieces. As space is a premium I cut out all pieces first as I only have the one table. But I can understand how you would drag your heels, its almost like starting from scratch again. Ive never heard of cutting lining out later. Ive always cut them all at once. Even when I went to a class in the early 90's the elderly ladies I sewed with did the same.

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  12. So far, I've cut out my linings (& overlocked the pieces then too) at the same time as my main-fabric. However, I've been toile-ing my dresses/skirts to-date, so any fit issues have been resolved before I've constructed my final garment :-)

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  13. I love the cutting time and planning.I cut fashion fabric first and lay it on the lining fabric which may or may not be the same width but the first fabric is like a weight that holds it all together...then pinned together, all markings are done at once through all layers and then unpinned and edges finished as needed. As seams are done in one layer, the seams are repeated in the other layers to match, that way I don't have to wonder whether I did the shoulders in one and forgot the shoulders in the lining...all are sewn in sequence. Call me crazy but is speeds up the process to sew everything in tandem and if I made the dress first and then had to go back and start the lining...it would be a drag.

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  14. I cut the lining when I cut the fashion fabric, but since I generally make one of 3 skirts and the same jacket, I know there will be no surprises.

    In fact, I like to cut a lot of things out at once. I will spend a few free hours on a weeknight or a Saturday morning cutting many things out. I store them in extra-large zip loc bags and then work my way though it one seam at a time.

    I have the privilege of coming home for lunch so I sometimes sew for 20 minutes then. I will sew while dinner is cooking or while the news is on. Having so many things ready to sew ensures that when 20 minutes presents itself, I can just sit and sew.

    This is what works for me.

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    1. I tried that once years ago, cutting out a bunch of things and then waiting for time to sew them up...ummm didn't work for me! Which I was pretty sad about because I had a sewing friend who was able to get so much done that way. So I guess I'm a little jealous! *LOL*

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    2. I tried that, too. Never worked for me either. Iwould forget what was in the totes and move on. Those were the days of the UFO.

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  15. I cut them out at the same time because otherwise I'll totally forget about the lining!

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  16. Isn't it funny how many us dislike cutting out? It's just another part of our hobby and it's when you actually see how the fabric will finish up on your body, yet it's so tedious! I do my linings after the garment is sewn, usually because I'm itching to get it done and to make sure it's not a wadded before finishing it

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  17. I like to get everything cut marked and interfaced at the same time. Although, if it's a new garment that is well fitted I may use a muslin to check for any surprises and make any final paper pattern alterations before cutting. Some garments I just tissue fit and go straight to the fashion fabric.

    All-in-all, I truly like to get it completed at the same time because I too want to hurry up and get to the sewing. I don't like back tracking.

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  18. I hate cutting too. Bleh. So tedious.

    I rarely make lined things (only 2 to date) so I can't say. I'm sure I cut the lining out after the fact though. I think. Hahaha.

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  19. Like many other posters I cut out the lining at the same time as the fashion fabric and interfacing pieces. I always make muslins or use my TNTs so there's no fit issues. I also sew up my linings first so when the fashion fabric is sewn my garment is nearly finished. This process works well for me.

    Karen

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  20. I don't mind cutting out (call me crazy). When I sew for someone, I do a muslin, then do the dress and finally the lining. I cut them out as I need them. It works for me. I have also been known to lay out the pattern pieces and cut out the pieces as I needed them. I have a cutting table and the space to do that. It has worked for me when I decided to do that.

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  21. I wrote a tip ages ago, "Make the Lining First" (http://blog.gorgeousfabrics.com/2008/12/11/sewing-tip-make-the-lining-first/). Often times I'll cut out and sew up the lining before even cutting into the fashion fabric, because otherwise I am tempted to just skip the lining step altogether. I call it lining fatigue.

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  22. I do as Ann of Gorgeous Things suggests above and cut and sew the lining first. But my reasoning is slightly different. I make the lining first because if I need to tweak the pattern a little the tweak is in the lining, which won't show. Also, the lining usually is less expensive than the shell fabric so if I need to start over I haven't lost as much money.

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  23. Generally I cut my lining at the same time I cut my fashion fabric. I don't like cutting either! I made an exception for my last make - I wasn't absolutely sure my fitting muslin hadn't stretched, and so I cut the lining first, fit *it* and then cut my fashion fabric. (Was glad I did, honestly)

    But since I liked the pattern - I cut two dresses that day, one of which isn't lined.

    I'd much rather sew than cut.

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  24. I actually never thought about cutting my lining out after I constructed the fashion fabric. I cut everything at the same time.

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  25. Most of the time I cut the lining after the garment is partially sewn. I like to keep my paper pattern pieces on the cut fabric until I sew each piece so the pattern is "unavailable" to cut the lining. If the lining isn't cut out then I can decide on any changes,or see how the fabric is working and make any change to the lining if needed. I guess I don't mind cutting out like other people so it's not a chore.

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  26. I don't sew as many lined garments as you, but I do cut them out after. I like to make sure that any changes I make in the outer garment are transferred to my lining pattern.

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  27. At the beginning, in the toil and drudgery that is cutting out. Elsewise, it would NEVER get done. I'd make a slip, instead.

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  28. It depends on what I am sewing, but I usually cut everything at once. If it is the first time pattern then I do a muslin first to test fit and any techniques that are new or I don't do often. I also cut my lining with 1 inch seam allowances as an extra precaution.

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  29. I hate, hate, hate cutting out. So I usually don't cut out the lining until the garment is already sewn. But I'm working on a coat for fall, and this time, I cut the lining first because I am using a new pattern and I wanted to sew up the lining as a muslin. It worked, and now I can cut out and sew up the outer coat, knowning the lining is already made. Score!

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  30. I cut out my lining when I feel like it. I've got way too much stress in my life to have a set routine in the sewing room. Sometimes I cut the lining before, during, and after the shell is constructed. Hassle-free is the way for me.

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  31. Hi Carolyn. I almost always cut the lining when I am cutting the fashion fabric. I like to have everything ready to sew. This approach isn't something that I read about; I prefer this because it allows me to continue sewing from the fashion fabric to attaching the lining to the garment.

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  32. I usually cut the lining out at the same time as the fashion fabric. I guess it didn't occur to me to do it at a different time. Also, I am like Kay and Ann in that I prefer to sew the lining up first, which helps me check the fit.

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  33. I cut my lining first because it usually acts as my muslin! Probably not best practice but it works for me :)

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  34. I'm making only my second lined jacket at the moment. It is a fitted jacket, and I haven't cut the lining yet, just because I want to be sure that the changes I made on the muslin translate to the fashion fabric. Having said that, I really don't enjoy cutting out, so I'll probably procrastinate over this step when it comes time to cut out the lining.

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  35. I cut out after. For the reasons others have mentioned. But cutting out is a pain and doing the lining is not much fun.

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  36. I always cut my linings when I cut the fashion fabric, assemble the shell then sew the lining and attach it to the outer garment. This way, I can incorporate any changes I may make at the last minute and still wear my finished garment as soon as possible.

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  37. I make my lining after, though I have only created a few lined (maybe 2) garments. And, to be honest, I don't mind cutting, it is marking fabric that I hate with a passion!!!

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    1. Ugh! Marking. Got to do it, but it ain't no fun -- it is like the obligatory trip to the lab to give blood and pee in a cup before one's yearly physical. Well, it is, to me. Still, nice to have those markings in place before you sit down to the fun part of sewing: driving the machine like a race car.

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  38. I cut the out after the fashion fabric. That way I dont lose momentum.

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  39. I tend to make a mock up of garments that I make so any fitting issues are already sorted and transferred to the pattern before I get near to cutting the main fabric and lining. Due to this I then tend to cut both together.

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  40. I don't like cutting out either so I try to cut everything that needs cutting (fabric, lining, interfacing) all at once so that I can move on to the fun part of sewing. I always make a muslin first so by the time I cut, I am pretty confident of the fit.

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  41. I cut my lining and fashion fabric at the same time. Speaking of the Bishop Method of Sewing - one of Edna's philosophies was called unit construction, which was to complete as many operations on a single piece before sewing it to another piece. I take this theory to cutting and cut all my pieces at the same time.

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  42. Interesting, seems like the majority do both at once. I don't like cutting either, so cutting and marking both at the same time is too much for me! I like to do my lining first as it is the easiest (no pockets, facings, collars) and then I save the best for last. All the details on the garment are the most fun to sew. Also when I've completed the garment my lining is ready and waiting.

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