Tuesday, August 26, 2014

McCalls 2014 Fall Collection

Y'all know that I stopped doing pattern release reviews a long time ago. There are so many fresher, newer and better takes on these reviews than I can write so I've bowed to those awesome critiques. So why am I writing one now? Because I was really looking forward to the new patterns by Khaliah Ali.  I loved the line she had for years at Simplicity and was eagerly anticipating some of those fashionable designs for plus size women in the new McCalls line...

So I breathlessly clicked into the McCalls Pattern site when I received the email that the fall patterns were being revealed especially because Khaliah Ali's name was in the tag line.  

These are the three patterns they debuted...





I'm gonna be honest.  I am disappointed with these three patterns. I went back and forth about writing this review because hey, I really like all the things The McCalls Pattern Company is doing to connect with the home sewist these days. But I won't be buying any of these patterns.

You would think that I would at least like the tunic/pants/overblouse & dress pattern...nah not so much.  Especially since I made my own version of that dress using my TNT pattern back in 2008 - actually two different versions with sleeves...





Dang, now that I think about it...I made a version last year too! So I won't be buying that pattern...well actually, I won't be buying any of these patterns...I will be waiting and hoping that the next release will be something that I can dive into! 

If you do like these patterns, please purchase them because I want this line to continue and thrive at McCalls...but could we get a few more seams, maybe some garments that have a closer fit and NO MORE TENTS! Oh and these only go up to a 24W and yes, I'm going to say it...at Simplicity they went up to a 32W...four more sizes for my plus size sistahs that have enough problems getting nice patterns without having to grade them up would be awesome too. 

So thank you in advance because I know you're listening now!

...as always more later!





37 comments:

  1. I was disappointed, too, although I may buy 7028 when it goes on clearance prices. I do like the tunic and the pants, but the dress looks like too much.

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  2. I do like your March 2008 dress - I've been hesitant about a centerpanel design as I think I overcontrast it (and bifurcate myself). I honestly can't tell what is going on with the patterns for the prints they've used, but going to the tech drawings, I'm 'meh'.

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  3. Totally agree - I liked a lot of the other patterns, but none of the Ali patterns. I really liked her line with Simplicity, so I was a bit sad with these options. They all just feel like too much fabric, not enough fitting options.

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  4. I agree, these are not good. And a lot of the Simplicity patterns were very nice. plus the sizing as you mentions. very odd for a debut. really, that first one, what were they thinking? no one would look good in that.

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  5. It is so disappointing they look like patterns chosen by a non plus size for what they "think" curvy women should wear. Surely there is a market for a more fitted plus size silhouette? Like you I hope it is successful so that she gets another set of designs.

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  6. I'm not going to defend the designs at all, but the styling makes them even worse don't you think? I mean the first one looks like a tomato - it's ridiculous and overwhelming on the beautiful model! Whereas a lighter weight fabric + belt might have made it more attractive? The fabric for the second one is dated too. Not a great start. Compare them to your dresses which look great and wearable. Rachel ☺

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  7. After the webpage of new pattern loaded, I asked myself, "what is that red blob in the corner?" Khalilah looks great, but I wish they had selected a different color backdrop. The outfit's shape blends into the background and the lline drawiing is very helpful.

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  8. You are right, these are just loose tents... I am not impressed.

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  9. We hear it over and over--ladies who are not in the available pattern size ranges saying they'd like the current fashions, just adapted in their size. I know there are issues with pattern grading, but it is time for the designers and the pattern companies to jettison the muumuus and get with some fair fashion for all.

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  10. I feel like this release puts us in a bad place- if none of us buy, they will give us the old line "we released those "special" patterns for you and no one bought them" as they whittle our choices down even more. But I am with you and will not be buying something I don't like just because I am afraid they won't give us any options in the future!

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  11. Yes, you are not alone. As soon as I set eye of the rainbow coloured "shroud" I lost hope. I am curvy. That does not mean I want to hide in something resembling a potato sack!

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  12. I'm not sure what the first pattern is. Is it a wrap, a dress? I quite like the middle dress and also the tunic and trousers. But so much flowing fabric! Why?

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  13. What is up with that first one?

    Since they are listed as "misses" and not as "plus size", I imagine that's why they stopped at size 24?

    It sometimes seems like the pattern companies are purposely not making nice patten in plus sizes just to get us all to stop buying them so they can have a "reason" to stop making them.

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  14. That first one is just hilarity-inducing! It seems like someone took the complaints of the plus size community that everything looks like tents and decided to bring it to life. Or maybe they thought "well this is for really, really big women who want to hide" - but that doesn't match up with the facti t only goes up to a 24W - that's only 1 - 2 sizes larger than me, and I'm a RTW 14! Bizarre.

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  15. Very underwhelmed with this line. It seems as if pattern makers have relegated plus sizes to tunics, tents and pants--and, admittedly I still wear tunics and pants for everyday casual. However, to introduce a new line under a known name that looks like rehashed 'fat girl' clothes? I agree, McCalls, we are very disappointed.

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  16. Don't they realize that the looser the clothes, the bigger you will look? I was very disappointed when I looked at these last night. I hope mccalls is listening to us. Why can't they just have a wider range of sizes for all of the patterns? Not every curvy gal wants to hide herself.

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  17. My two closest friends are both plus sized. I was waiting for these because I'd really love to make at least one garment for them.

    I was very let down and in fact shared the photos with them. The tunic over the pants isn't SO bad but it's still such a snoozefest.

    7027; just...no.
    7028; just SO much fabric everywhere. It just doesn't work at all.

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  18. Unfortunately they missed the mark on these. I'm not sure what they are conveying with these patterns and that is unfortunate. I have two of her Simplicity patterns that I inherited and the are far much better than this selection. Wow!

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  19. The only "big" pattern company that I think is doing plus sizes really well is Burda. In additon to the plus sections in every magazine (both international and US editions), they've got the international magazine that comes out twice a year dedicated to only plus sizes, and with the last two paper pattern releases they have included some really nice plus patterns. It's Burda, so there will always be some strange ones along with the really nice ones, but nothing like that red tomato blob. BTW- in the US, there ARE new Burda paper patterns; for some reason Simplicity doesn't have them on the site yet.

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    1. I agree with you about the Burda patterns. They're pretty and I would love to wear them; however, they do not come in sizes for the larger of us plus size women. Most "plus size" patterns stop at 52/26 which is a size or two too small for me. Maybe these pattern companies think that we should be grateful for the crumbs from their plates, especially when you consider that lines like Vogue don't make plus sizes at all. I know that I always feel disheartened and whale-like when I go pattern shopping these days. I mean, really, caftans and muumuus?

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  20. Every time I see a release like this, it makes me more thankful for StyleArc and HotPatterns, who make ALL of their designs available in a huge range of sizes (and well into the plus size range). I liked a lot of Khaliah Ali's patterns with Simplicity, but these seem like a huge step backwards.

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  21. I can certainly understand why you feel the way you do about these 3 patterns. I think the tunic over pants is cute, the dress is just OK but that McCalls 7027 - what is that? Sooo much fabric!

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  22. You are right on point about these three patterns. I agree--no more tents!!

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  23. We need a plus sized indi pattern company!!! I would love to know what the stats are for sizes sold by the big 4. What percent of total sales are plus size?

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    1. They are going to tell us this look is "Art Teacher chic".

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  24. Got to say that first one looks like she ran into curtains and pulled them down on herself. So sad to see the smaller size range. I need to larger sizes.

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  25. These are so uncharacteristic of the brand as done before with Simplicity - I wonder if she just sold her name to McCall's and some size "00" designer made these up. These are horrifying. @ BeeJay - definitely a battle with curtains! ~lol

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  26. 1. They would never expect a Miss Petite to wear these sacks. They would never display this type of disrespect toward small size women.
    2. We don't stop needing patterns at a size 24.
    3. This collection scares me. Is this what the "new" McCalls thinks of plus size women?

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  27. 7027 is a shocker. And the others underwhelming. I'm not plus sized, but these offerings disappoint even me.

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  28. How disappointing! Being plus sized I would never wear these parachute items. WHY? WHY? WHY? Can we get something that doesn't look like patterns already out. I mean....come on!!! McCall's 7027 is dreadful.

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  29. I was excited when I saw the first pic- I thought we are headed in a more interesting than 'scoop neck Maude tent' that half the plus sized patterns seem to be.

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  30. Wow. The only thing they didn't do wrong on these is put them on size 4 models. Reminds me of looking at Burda's plus patterns. I finally gave up. All they do is take a duvet cover, cut a neck hole in it and fold over a couple bits so its an 'easy sew'. Blech.

    7027 is abysmal. Definitely a fight with curtains. For the love of cabbage roses, no! 7028 would be cute if they had chopped the hem about 18" up and done some color blocking on the sides, maybe a little sleeve detail or something - like maybe angle the cuff like the neckline? I do like the neckline, but it isn't new. Same with 7029. sorta cute, but nothing we haven't seen before 100 times. My god I sound like Nina Garcia. :)

    I am also mystified at ending at size 24. I wear RTW size 16 or 18, which puts me well off the usual right edge of the pattern envelope. I'm 5'9" though, so I mostly just look chubby. Hardly plus size, but I score a 22 on the pattern envelope when it extends that far or a 48/50 Burda. I guess what I'm trying to say is that there are a lot of women out there more 'plus' than I am, so it's crazy that my size is nearly the biggest one. Crazy! Do these people not walk around in the world and look at real people?

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  31. Oh! I like your refresh - very cute. However, I did like that little ruffle and trim detail. I can see how it might not be the right length, though. Those things are tricky to get the proportions right.

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  32. Since I have finished grad school your blog has re-motivated me to get back to my passion of sewing! Thanks Much!

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  33. Those are terrible and should be burned!

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