Vogue 8090 in Denim

After finishing up the denim V1247 skirt, I decided that I'd use the rest of the denim for this topper. However, since everything has changed and I no longer have tried 'n true patterns to use as "slopers" for new patterns, I'm starting from scratch with each new pattern I sew.

Therefore, I research each new pattern before I use it. I must note here that this pattern is out-of-print (OOP) but still probably in a lot of your stashes. My first stop on the research train is PatternReview. I love the pattern review database and want to thank everyone who contributes to it. 

There are only 7 reviews of this pattern with most of them being made in 2011 when the pattern was released. Although someone did make one during the summer of 2015. While I'm thankful for those reviews there wasn't enough information and inspiration there, so my next stop was Google.

Why do I google patterns? One because I can see images of finished garments and reviews of them that aren't always on PatternReview. And in my googling I found reviews by Mrs. Mole and I thought thank God, real helpful information by a sewing pro. She made this topper for a client and provides some insight into fit that I used to make my own version.

So first a picture of the finished topper ~

One of the last outdoors photos for the season because it's chilly and the 

sun sets way too early. This picture was taken at 3pm.

The Supplies ~
Medium weight denim from Fabric Mart (the same used in the V1247 skirt)
4 - 1" gold buttons from the collection 
(honestly I've had these so long I don't even know where they came from!)

Pattern Alterations and Construction Details ~
I made no alterations to the pattern because when I double checked the finished measurements, I fit solidly into a size 22. But just to make sure, I tissue fit the topper and the only thing I thought was maybe I would need to sew the side seams a little deeper and this proved to be true.

Other than that my major change was to topstitch the seams in the same color thread. I went back and forth over that because my original thought was to topstitch in a gold thread but in the end decided it was too much. I want this to be able to be thrown over everything so it needs to be as neutral as possible. Also because I used a medium weight denim, I omitted the interfacing the pattern suggests you use. If it was a thinner, flimsier fabric, I would definitely have interfaced the facing pieces but my fabric was firm and didn't need it.

This is an easy sew like the pattern envelope says. I had two challenges with this sew - one, getting the sleeves inserted. I had to fiddle with them and I'm not sure it was the way I inserted them or if the fabric used was too bulky. There was a lot of steam, some careful clipping and a lot of clapper action to get them to lay flat and work. But they do work!  

My second challenge was the facings. Gawd, I just couldn't get those irregular shapes to go together well. I took them apart 3x before I finally got them in correctly. I also added a few slip stitches between the facing buttonhole and the jacket buttonhole so that they wouldn't slip or work against each other when using the jacket.

Finally a caution, I think that this pattern works for me because I'm fluffy. I think a slimmer person might be challenged by the extra fabric/ease in this pattern. Like Mrs. Mole said, you should definitely make a muslin to make sure that you get the best fit. However, for me it provides a stylish cover up for the extra fluff.

Okay a few more pictures ~

I added a gold button to the back and on each sleeve hem

because I liked how it looked.

Up next is a top from The Carolyn Pajamas by Closet Case Files. When Heather first issued this pattern, I never saw pajamas. I always saw a cool top and I'm making my version from velvet.

...as always more later!