Sunday, November 05, 2023

A Woodland Border Print Simplicity 8687 - Part 1

First, I'd like to say thank you for all of you who still follow my sewing adventures and leave a comment.  I so appreciate you! Just one quick thing ~ I know blogger has made logging in more challenging so if you use "Anonymous" would you mind leaving your name at the end of your comment.  Thanks again!

Now to the actual blog post...

I use to write progress posts all the time for my makes.  Somewhere in the last couple of years I stopped. I'm changing it up again and going back to writing progress posts.  I appreciate being able to scroll through those old posts and see what I did and why.  Since I'm not sewing as much these days, I feel like I need to share why I make decisions as I'm making them in the moment.  My sewing decisions are primarily based upon my experience. The experiences that affect how I'm sewing going forward.

I purchased a bunch of Julia Cost's fabrics a couple of weeks ago after not buying fabric for almost six months.  That's a LONG time in my world!  However, purchasing it really jumpstarted my mojo which has been vacationing.  I want to use all three of the fabric pieces I purchased taking my time to make them sing.  I also know I want to use TNT patterns for these garments.  I want to manipulate the fabric not fiddle around with fit.

Also, I feel like I haven't been walking in my essence for the last year.  I create that's who I am. Ideas come to me, fabric is purchased or chosen from the collection, a pattern picked and I make garments come to life. Various factors have squelched my creativity but I'm reclaiming it with both hands and leaning into it. Because this IS who I really am.

Pattern:


I'm using Simplicity 8687 again. This will be my fourth version although it wasn't a very popular pattern in the sewing community.  PatternReview only has 7 reviews of it.  The hashtag on Instagram has 13 photos under the hashtag...and several of them are of my toppers. I think I saw something in the line drawings that no one else did.  I've also used very distinctive fabrics to make the jacket pattern sing which definitely changes the finished garment's appearance.

Fabric:

I purchased 4 yards of 55" wide lightweight cotton corduroy border print for this project. While I only needed 3 yards to make this topper, I like an extra yard of fabric to match the border print across the seams. I believe this is necessary for a good border print match.  Trying to be stingy with layout on fabric hurts the look you're trying to achieve.

Notions:

In my sunflower version I bound the hem facing and the hem with bias binding. I'd really like to do the same for this version. I also want to add green buttons for the jacket front.

Construction:

When I tried on the sunflower version, I can close it but my extra weight gain the last few years makes it a snug fit.  Not an obnoxiously too tight fit but I wanted the slightly looser fit of the originally sewn jacket. To achieve this I decided to cut the lower back pattern piece out with a 2.5" pleat.  This gives me the added space I need by adding a cool design feature.

The back and collar pieces are the only pattern pieces I cut on the fold.  Here are a few photos of the cutting out process. 

Cutting out the jacket fronts using a single layer of fabric


Jacket front pieces laying side by side

A few other things to note:

- Corduroy has a nap.  While I cut the pieces on the wide width I made sure the tops of the pattern pieces all faced one direction.  This was so the nap ran the same way on all of the pieces.

- Always, always, always purchase at least an extra yard or extra panel when working with border prints and panels.  It allows you room to experiment, match borders across all the sides and even recut if there is an error.

I'm well into constructing and making some design and trim options for the jacket.  That will be in the next post.


...as always more later!





28 comments:

  1. Looking forward to seeing this one completed, loving the fabric print!

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  2. That fabric is to-die-for gorgeous!

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  3. Glad your back, can't wait to see it finished. Anne

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  4. Thank you! I wouldn't have thought to add for a border purchase, but it sounds like very wise advice. And while I'd hate for you to feel obligated to post, I'm glad to see you here again. Personally I prefer process posts, because I'm more interested in how you get somewhere. Finished project posts are good too, but only interesting in proportion to how much you like that garment/would want to wear it, while I think process speaks to everyone

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  5. Thanks for the Julia Cost recommendation. I ordered a beautiful bamboo/cotton gauze print and was thrilled that the postage was free since I live on the Big Island and she is located in Maui which I can see from my front yard across the channel. Sourcing fabric is difficult here, thanks again Carolyn.

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  6. I'm so excited to see this! It already looks fantastic.

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  7. Beautiful fabric! I don't think I've ever seen a border print corduroy. Looking forward to more of the process and/or the completion - both are interesting to me.

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  8. I'm excited to follow this project. The fabric is stunning. You are the queen of border prints and I'm sure the result will be beautiful and unique. I appreciate learning from you. Eileen

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  9. It's always great to see your process moving from start to a beautifully finished border print garment. I smiled at your comment about your mojo vacationing. That's how we should all look at our occasional sewing breaks. Thanks for posting.

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  10. Your mojo apparently came back with a roar. This is outstanding. I can't wait to see the finished garment. And thank you always for sharing with us. Jean

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  11. I love the main garment on the pattern envelope and it looks very wearable! How lucky to get such amazing border prints where you are. Thank you from me also for the tip about purchasing extra yardage

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  12. So happy for you that you found both your sewing mojo and this fabulous border print. I too appreciate very much indeed the time you take to show us how you alter and place your patterns, and I have learnt so much from you over the years. Can't wait to see this gorgeous garment when you finish. Happy Sewing Carolyn.

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  13. Beautiful! I can't wait to see the next steps!

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  14. I love to see your use of border prints. I’m intimidated by them. Looking forward to the finished product!

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  15. Thank you so much for choosing my Wildflower Mountain Textile corduroy, and I am so thrilled to see your process. We are so lucky to get a window into your creative mind and you have so many great tips! I can hardly wait to see more of this sure-to-be-amazing garment! Thanks so much for linking to my work also! Mahalo from Maui, Julia Cost

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  16. I look at border prints and just go completely blank. Your ability to see the 3D in it and put it together always amazes me.

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  17. Where did you find this gorgeous fabric?

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  18. This should be a smashing piece :) You have a good eye for detail!

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  19. You find the best fabric and then make the most of it. Congratulations. Anxious to see the final product!

    Ceci

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  20. That corduroy is just magnificent. I've never seen anything like it. Given that you are the Queen of planned layouts, aka, borders and panels, I really look forward to the magic you will work on this piece.

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  21. I love to see how you use the borderplant
    Tracey

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  22. I am SOOO glad to see you're back to posting. I've been missing you. I LOVE that corduroy fabric. I never even know corduroy was available like that. I can't wait to see the finished garment.
    Kathy F

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  23. Carolyn, Pat here, in Pretoria. "Anonymous" commenting was never my intention but you're right about Blogger login ...
    I've been following you (lurking?) for about four years. I love your combination of art, expertise, inspiration and your lovely, engaging style of writing. (And I like your politics don't tell anyone ...🤫). I actually went back and read my way through your entire blog from day one, and loved it.
    I'd be very hard put to pick a favourite out of all the wonderful garments you've shared, but I do have to mention that beautiful jelly-roll top. I want to make something from a whole lot of different bits of shwe shwe I have (in the same colourway ...), and this creation of yours is such an inspiration.
    And then this current project ... just, Wow. I'm dying to see it when it's completed.
    Thank you for all these years of wonderful creating. I'm thrilled to have you back.

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  24. Always happy to read what you are up to next. As everyone is mentioning, the fabric is awesome! I noticed that Julia Cost commented also... Hard to believe that the fabric is corduroy... more texture to enjoy and give more movement to your project. I'm sure it will be wonderful.

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  25. Thoroughly enjoyed your post! Your writing style is engaging. Excited for more from you!

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  26. I always liked the idea of using Border print but was a bit scared! So glad to follow this project!

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  27. I just stumbled across your blog and am so happy that i have found it. You are an inspirational and inspired sewist. And look amazing in your clothing! Thank you for posting and wow, you do some gorgeous garments! I am a beginner at sewing (someday I will conquer the weld pocket but...not quite yet. Capes I have managed to sew competently) and since I'm still on the steep learning curve I am so grateful for the chance to get inspired by your artistic and skillful work. Look forward to seeing how this project develops. Thanks. Margaret

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  28. I love reading your blog posts. I learn so much from them and they give me ideas. I love the way you make fabric sing. Can't wait to see how this one looks when it is finished.
    Teresa

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