Wardrobe Sewing 2025

Remember when we use to plan and sew wardrobes?  How we'd plan, choose fabrics and patterns to get a grouping of 6, 8 or 10 pieces that would mix and match to form 10, 20 or more different looks? I was and still am a believer in wardrobe sewing.  Why am I bringing this up now?

Well over the Thanksgiving Break, I finally started the jean trousers I've been wanting.  I used a light to mid-weight denim from the collection.  As I was working on it, some rayon challis that was purchased on sale from Fabric Mart arrived and one piece went so well with the trousers.  Then I realized a sweater knit I'd also bought recently worked with the trousers.  There was also enough fabric left over from the black denim to make a vest and I realized I had enough to sew a wardrobe grouping.

Next I realized that I had some pieces in my closet that I've already made that would round this grouping out nicely.

Here are the pieces I want to make:

1. Black denim trousers from my TNT pants pattern that now fits again.  Here are some trousers I've made in the past. This link reminds me that I haven't made a new pair of pants since 2019! Wow!

2. Black print polyester sweater knit for a cardigan made from Burda 8869.  This is also a TNT pattern used multiple times before I switched to a different cardigan pattern. Only a couple of these remain in my closet.

3. Black denim vest, same fabric as the trousers, from OOP Vogue 7125

4. Cream/Black Paisley border print blouse from OOP Vogue 8772.  I've also used this pattern before. All three of these blouses/shirts are still in my closet.

Here are the coordinating garments in my closet:

White Poets Shirt made in 2018 

A knock off JJill Vest made in 2010

A sleeveless black ponte Cashmerette Pembroke that I only seem to only have photos of under other garments.  Though I need to make a full length sleeve version soon.

Of course, when looking for these blog posts I found several more black print tops and shirts that will also work with the four new pieces. I also own several pairs of RTW jeans (both skinny and straight leg) that will mix and match with the new pieces.

I've started working on the new garments over Thanksgiving weekend so will have finished pieces to share soon.

...as always more later!

Thoughts While Sewing - Fall/Winter 2025

I've written a number of these posts over the years on this subject.

I love these words from a December 2015 post:

I love the space I occupy when I'm knee deep into a sewing vacay.  I love how my mind starts to clear out the driftwood of life - those concerns that overburden us - and makes way for the soul cleansing that spending time being creative brings me.

Lately I've had similar thoughts now that I've started sewing again.

• I'm making way more mistakes now than I have in a long time.  One is definitely fitting challenges. My body has changed on me yet again. My mind is working to keep up and not doing a very good job. I still see myself as heavier than I actually am.
• Recently pulled a pattern and almost rejected it because the finished hip width was 53 inches. I thought too much work to add 12 inches. Measured myself and almost passed out. I only needed to add 3 inches and that was for ease. So yes, I'm using the pattern.
• I hate cutting out interfacing.  I don't know why but it's right up there with cutting out fabric. Not a favorite.
• My coworker showed me a cartoon from Reddit about a man using his wife sewing shears.  She innocently asked me if I had two pairs of scissors, too?  I laughed so hard and told her basically yes.  But in actuality I probably own 10 pairs of scissors that I use for various functions. She was shocked.  I had to use my painter & paintbrushes/paints analogy for her to get it.
• I'm sewing so I've been buying more fabric.  Why is that?  It's not like I don't have PLENTY of raw materials to use already! But fabric's siren song has been calling to me and I've been answering.
• I'm finally taking my time. Yes, I need some new pieces BUT I really want to enjoy this sewing journey. I'm making samples. I'm not forcing myself to sew. If I want to, good.  If I'm not feeling it, that's fine too.  I don't want to scare my sewjo away.. I like having that part of myself back.
• I'm concerned about how the tariffs are going to affect sewists abilities to purchase items we need to sew.  So much is made overseas or in Mexico. Shop after shop were issuing tariff updates and it worries me because how will new sewists get the materials they need. Or even someone who is sewing because it's cheaper than purchasing new.  Not all sewists shop at Walmart & Target. 
• Even after a trip to Lancaster, PA where everything is cheaper than in the metropolitan area where I live, the prices have gone up.  Buttons that I purchased in bags of a dozen use to be 98 cents are now $1.39 or higher. 
• Which brings me to my sewing spaces.  Because I turned my loft into sewing storage, I realized after I visited it the other day, that I own a lot of everything.  Trim, zippers, bias bindings, elastics, thread, zippers, patterns...I've collected them all.  Yes, they are nicely stored away but there is a lot of it.
• I want to make a couple vests for fall.  I've gathered a variety of patterns and comprised a list of fabrics I want to use.  This should be fun.  I've made several vests over the years, and a couple are still in my wardrobe. 
• I also want to make lounge wear for this fall/winter. I get cold very easily, and even though I dislike wearing pants at home, I want to make some lounge wear with oversized tops and wide leg pants.  I have plenty of patterns and just added some cozy wear fabric to the collection after a recent trip to Lancaster, PA.

We're coming into that time of the year where we can just stay inside and chill. I'm looking forward to the upcoming months because I'm sewing again and I have time off from work that I can use to create.  While I don't need much, I do want some new things, and to spread my creative wings so I'm going to sew.  

I am taking it back to a lot of what I've previously made, reusing patterns that have already been fitted with some fabric from the collection and some new pieces. Not many new patterns interest me these days.  Either I already own something like it or it doesn't fit my lifestyle now.  All that to say, I'm not sewing a lot of trends. I want this to be a season of using what I have especially since I've spent decades accumulating it!

As we approach Thanksgiving week, I'm off for most of the week and will be creating, so hopefully more to share with you soon!  To everyone who celebrates this holiday, I hope you have a wonderful time with friends & family, eat a lot of good food, and enjoy this time.

photo credit: https://www.farmersalmanac.com/when-is-thanksgiving-day

 

...as always more later!

An Elegant Style Arc Hope

I needed a dress for a Black-tie event and my preference is still classy, elegant and a touch of drama.  I wanted the fabric to do the work with a minimal silhouette. BUT I didn't want overtly sexy or anything uncomfortable and no sequins. I don't have time to deal with sequin sewing and clean up.

I went through a lot of silhouettes and possibilities and then decide to "upgrade" a pattern that I loved in my everyday life.  Also, I knew no one else would be wearing my dress.  So, I started with one of my favorite patterns, the Style Arc Hope Extension maxi dress.

It's an easy sew using complicated/fussy fabrics.

Supplies ~

2 yards of an appliqued mesh fabric purchased from Chic Fabrics in NYC

3 yards of 4ply black silk crepe from the collection via Fabric Mart (this was deep stash because it had an old Fabric Mart label on it)

2.5 yards of black rayon bemberg purchased from NY Elegant Fabrics

Less than one yard of 5/8" black elastic purchased from Cedar Grove Lane Trims in Lancaster, PA

2 yards of rayon seam binding from my trims collection

Construction ~

There was no difference in the construction sequence just added steps to account for the special fabrics.

o  Every piece except for the sleeves were cut out twice.

o  The mesh piece was basted to the front and back pieces before serge finishing the edges

o  The front skirt was cut on the fold. While the back skirt pieces were cut with a center back seam.

o  All basting was done with a single thread.

o  The hem of the dress was stitched with a single thread so no stitches would show on the dress front.

o  The lining fabric was cut 1" shorter than the main fabric and machine hemmed.

o  I added the bias binding the same way as I did for my other versions.

o  A look at the back and front of the bodice with the sleeves added.

Some photos of the finished dress

At the event...

Home afterwards in my comfy slides

My daughter and me

Conclusion ~

I know it's unusual to take a regular dress pattern and upscale it for eveningwear.  But after looking at several eveningwear patterns and online photos, I knew I wanted something that was more me.  

-  I didn't want sequins cause they're a bitch to sew and clean up.  

-  I didn't want anything tight or low cut.

-  I did want something classy and elegant with a touch of drama.

-  I did want to highlight my weight loss but not in an overbearing (to me) way.

-  I also wanted something simple to sew.  Letting the fabrics and silhouette speak.

I think my boho chic evening gown works and it elevated a pattern that I love.  I did learn that I want to make a sequin skirt (already own the fabric) and a silk blouse to wear as an eveningwear outfit, and a slimmer silhouette made from an embroidered mesh and more silk crepe I already own.  I have several nieces and nephews coming of marriage age and I want to be ready with a wardrobe I already have instead of sewing in a rush.

Parting Shot ~

How my evening ended, me in bed with a bowl of spaghetti. Why are you always hungry after one of these events?

I'm off most of Thanksgiving week and I'm not the cook, so I plan on sewing most of that week. The urge to create is strong so I'm going with it!  More fall/winter garments are coming.

*I know Blogger has made it more challenging to sign in but would you kindly sign your name if you use anonymous.  It makes it easier to talk back to you.  Thanks so much!

...as always more later!