Friday, November 30, 2012

Vogue 8824 in Green Wool Crepe

I loved this pattern/silhouette as soon as it came out and I picked a green double sided wool crepe from Mood back in August to sew it up in.  I just needed the temperatures to drop to use it.  Of course since its the end of November, the temps have dropped so now making & wearing the dress is perfect.  Green is one of the hot colors for fall so I was thrilled to find the fabric in this color and to be able to add it to my fall wardrobe while it was still on trend. 



Some stats:
Fabric ~
Green double sided wool crepe from the Mood store in NYC

Notions ~
Gray rayon bemberg lining
1 6" Riri zipper

Pattern Alterations:
Even though this pattern goes up to an XXL (size 24-26) in Vogue land, as a plus size chick I know that Vogue cuts their plus size patterns on the slim side rather than the full size.  So the first alteration I made to all the pattern pieces (front, back & sleeve) was to alter them using my TNT (tried and true) dress pattern.  I do this by creating a pattern sandwich
  • first my TNT dress pattern is laid down
  • then the pattern piece from V8824
  • finally tracing paper is added to the top
  • then I trace a new pattern piece
All my fitting issues are resolved by using my TNT dress pattern and I don't have to start from scratch with the new pattern.  I also altered the shoulder seam on the pattern pieces front and back by 1.5".  That was the extent of the pattern alterations.  Due to a lack of fabric, I thought I had more than I did, the sleeves ended up having a seam down the middle to get them out of the yardage I had left.

Construction Changes:
I made a few changes to make the dress more like I imagined it.  I omitted the facings and added a lining to the body of the dress but not the sleeves.  The pattern suggests that you cut the back on the fold.  I need body definition so I added a center back seam. I also topstitched the v-neckline and the center seam on the sleeves. 

But the biggest change I made was to the pockets.  The pattern calls for patch pockets - big fat patch pockets on the front of the dress.  Well I guess if you're not sporting additional abdomen fat on the front of you, those pockets would work...but in my world I don't call attention to my extra large protrusions.  In my world, I hide them by any means necessary...so after rooting through a few books and looking at some pics online, I decided to go with zipper pockets.

Zipper Pocket Techniques:
First, I found this tutorial online from Sew Mama Sew.  It was very helpful in making the one pocket that appears on my dress.  Now why is there only one pocket?  Because I was fearless in cutting a hole into the front of my dress piece when I didn't have any more fabric left to recut the front.  Seriously people I don't know what the hell I was thinking!  Because of course, I cut the hole to big!  Why wouldn't I?  I'm not the most precise sewist...I just like to sew and have some great ideas...but precision sewing...that ain't me!

So in the middle of the night, I'm screaming at the television and at myself because I've got to make this work.  I even started to take pictures of this before I effed it up!


Added fusible interfacing and marking the zipper pocket

Sewing the zipper pocket in


Dress front and the zipper pocket.
Look closely you can see the offense!

After many prayers, some stitch witchery and a lot of pressing I fixed the problem.  I mean you can only see the hole if you're really close to me, looking for it...or so my daughter says.  That is why there is only ONE zipper pocket (which doesn't have a pocket bag on the back because I decided to stop while I was ahead!) It does look kinda kewl on the dress front though, right?

Wearability Factor:
I wore this dress with the ivory tank top to work on Monday.  It was a pretty cold morning but the dress and turtleneck were just too warm to combine in real life.  Also, this dress needs a back zipper so that I can step in and out of it.  Even though the front v-neckline is low and you are able to get into and out of the garment that way, it's not easy for me.  So all future versions will have a back zipper.  Now if you're contemplating making the pattern, I highly suggest that you add a center back seam and use a zipper.  Otherwise, the dress wore very well and garnered quite a few compliments.

So a few more pictures...


A side/back view



Worn with a tank top 
& showing the zipper pocket

Back view


Conclusion:
I will make this again.  I already have an idea of how I want to make it as a tunic top with a skirt and/or pants. I also have several different embellishment ideas running through my head.  Second, zipper pockets would be an amazing addition to this pattern, just leave enough fabric to practice them first!  And finally, this is a great pattern that would look great on many different body types.


...as always more later!






48 comments:

  1. I love it! It's beautiful and I really like the zipper pocket.

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  2. Just gorgeous! Such a nice line and such a rich color!

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  3. It was a very beautiful dress and it lookes very nice on you!

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  4. Ummmm I looked closely and I don't see the offense! That dress is gorgeous!!!

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  5. I love your dress. Very stylish indeed. Great colour and the finished dress is lovely.

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  6. The neckline and the zip pockets give it a hip feeling.

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  7. A very smart looking dress. The green is a gorgeous colour. I love it with the white tank and the zipper pocket looks great.

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  8. I love the way this fits you! I like the zippered pocket too.

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  9. I don't know that I've seen you in this colour before, but it really suits you. This is a great outfit and you look great.

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  10. Great colour and the zip does look pretty cool.

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  11. I think the one pocket look is fine. Not everything has to be symmetrical!

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  12. The green looks so pretty on you, as does the dress. Great save on the pocket and the one does look quite "Kewl"!

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  13. Double Wow! This dress is great and you look amazing in it - just the right green for you. You have given me many happy smiles from seeing these photos.

    Sending care and huggles, Michelle/Mickle xxxx

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  14. I gotta say, this is one of my favorite colors on you ever. And that v-neck is so flattering. Did you stabilize that love V? One zipper pocket - very very cool.

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  15. I really like this dress. The color is fabulous on you.

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  16. You're not the only person to have to deal with the pocket in the front issue - but I think it looks fantastic and a great use of that zipper - just the touch. Great shape; great color. I love it. Green is one of my favs.

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  17. This is a great looking dress and the color looks wonderful on you!

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  18. This is my favorite of all, I love the color. It looks so pretty on your and the necklace add the perfect touch.

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  19. I LOVE this color on you...I'm sorry you don't have more of the fabric because it is so flattering to you. I like the one pocket too...the 3/4 shot looks great; the slanted angle of of the zipper is flattering. I like the contrast of the gold with the green as well. Great job!

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  20. Such a pretty color dress, and the zipper really make a statement.

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  21. I LOVE this dress on you! Everything about it is fantastic! I really like that there's only a single zipper pocket. The ivory turtleneck looks awesome underneath, but I can understand it being far too hot inside buildings. It would be neat to have just the neck & front section of a turtleneck, but I'm baffled how it would stay put!!

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  22. It looks great on you, and will be perfect to wear to work around the holidays! I love the zipper "pocket", too.

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  23. I never even gave this pattern a second glance: The dress looks great on you and the asymmetrical zipper does make it. And the leopard shoes and long necklace rock!

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  24. This is so pretty on you!! That color is one of my favorites. I love the one pocket, too! And your honesty about how it ended up being the only one, lol.

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  25. Beautiful color and silhouette on you! Love it!

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  26. Thanks for explaining how you redo your pattern. I am new to sewing for "plus size" and need all the help I can get!!My goal for the new year is to make a TNT pattern.

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  27. ohhhh u look so beautiful and sassy in that dress...love it !!!! u inspire always

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  28. Very nice on you and thanks for the technique using a TNT. I would have never thunk it. I want to put zipper pockets in everything. LOL

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  29. Love this on you! And it's comforting to know that even someone as talented as you sometimes has to work around her mistake;) I was surprised when I looked at the pattern to see that Vogue doesn't recommend it for the rectangle figure (which I am). I can't see why not? I often can't figure out their guideline recommendations. Are they to be ignored or not?

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  30. Lovely dress! You look great in green! You're right it's one of the "it" colors this season.

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  31. This is a fantastic neckline on you!

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  32. Love that zipper pocket and the color is so rich! What an amazing dress. I actually love it with the tank. Just another pattern I need to buy......

    g

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  33. Lovely silhouette and color on you, Carolyn. Thanks for sharing!

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  34. Your green dress is so beautiful, flattering style and looks comfortable. I love it!
    I also have a question about the faux leather trim used on your cardigan. I want to use something like that on a felted wool coat, so what weight did you use and where did you buy it? It seems like upholstery weight would be too thick but it's hard to tell shopping online. Thank you.

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  35. lovely dress, great colour, killer heels too

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  36. It's totally gorgeous! I love the neckline and the colour suits you so well. I never wear green but I love it on others.

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  37. I still feel the same way about the zipper now as I wrote on MSN - I like the single zip pocket!

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  38. I'm with you... a turtle neck and long sleeve... way too warm!
    It turned out great! The color is great too! And your zip pocket looks like it was meant to be.

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  39. Beautiful dress, Caroline, and the color on your is very very pretty. Love it.

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  40. This is a cool dress and the color is great! You look fabulous! Love the zipper!

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  41. I too love this beautiful dress! The color is fabulous!

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  42. I'm with you on patch pockets-I don't need the eye drawn to that zone! I love your changes and this color on you- wonderful!!

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  43. That is a very good neckline for you and I do love the pocket.

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  44. What a beautiful dress - the colour is just wonderful. I especially love your beaming smile in the seated photo - it makes me smile, you radiate happiness!

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  45. Lovely dress! I like the zippered pocket as well...looks like it was designed that way.

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  46. What a great dress and that color looks so wonderful on you! Love the design feature of your zipper, you'd never know that there's a mistake...looks fantastic!

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