Sunday, June 15, 2014

Vogue 8972 - Dress Back Pattern Alterations

As I stated in my last post, there are ALOT of pattern alterations to get this dress to fit my plus size body.  Because the alterations are so extensive and I really wanted to show the entire process, I split the posts into two. Again, let me state that if you're not interested in the process, please wait until the final post that will show the dress modeled. AND one more codicil, this is how I fit the pattern to me...these are my methods which work for me...things that I've learned through trial and error...they may not be what the experts deem the proper way to fit a garment.

Now, the back pattern piece alterations...
  • I used the same starting point for the back pattern pieces as I did for the front dress back TNT pattern piece.
  • I pinned the new Vogue pattern pieces to my TNT back pattern piece to determine where I needed to add space to make the dress fit me. 
  • So I pin the pieces on and notice that I don't have a side back piece. WTF? I check the pattern instruction to see if maybe I forgot to cut a pattern piece out.  Nah, I cut them all out!  
  • So I read the pattern instructions maybe I'm missing something. Nope. 
  • Start looking at all the pieces again and realize that the front piece is also suppose to work for the back. 
  • Personally I hate that so I start to draft a new piece but then notice that that after making changes to the center back piece, that the side piece does work for the back too.
  • Now I don't know how well this is going to work on my body...but we're going to see!
Some pictures...

Back TNT pattern piece with Vogue pieces attached

Center back bodice piece with 1" alteration

Back side bodice with 1" alteration

Center back yoke with 3" alterations

Skirt back center back with alterations to adjust for fit

After reading Beth's comment on the last post, I did make a change to the front and back underarm to add some space. I also added some space to the sleeve pattern which I altered using my TNT pattern...we will see how that works out!

Next up is cutting out and construction. As I stated before, this is taking longer to get finished because I'm working on it in real time instead of over a sewcation. Also June has been a bit busy for me! always more later!


  1. Thank you for showing how you make a lot of your alterations in order to get your pattern pieces to fit well!

  2. Thank you for this! As a plus sized sewer I always enjoy seeing you in your beautiful creations, regardless of whether you show us the alterations or not. However, as fitting is the most intriguing part to me, I LOVE seeing your alteration process!

  3. Thanks you so much for showing the process.

  4. It is wonderful to have a view into your alteration process; I have to alter everything! Have you seen the new June 2014 Lafayette 148 NY catalog? It just arrived at my house. Many interesting professional pieces integrating leather details.

    1. Yes and I've been drooling over it! I get it on my iPad so I've looked at it several times on the way home from work. There are a couple of items I want to "interpret" now I just have to wait for fall to come! *LOL*

  5. I appreciate a look into your process for this sort of construction. this is the kind of sewing that I do late at night with a lot of tracing paper and coffee handy (and numerous smoke breaks when I did that sort of thing). I always feel like I am making it up all over again every time even with the TNT/slopers to guide me. Thanks lady!

    1. I wouldn't even attempt these patterns if I didn't have my TNT pattern to guide me. I would never be able to figure out where and how to enlarge the pattern pieces.

  6. Thanks for showing the process! That is what I have the most problems with as I age. I think if your method works, then your method is the way to do it for you. - And a big help to the rest of us.

  7. I wish I could come live with you for just a week. Oh how much I would learn. Thanks for sharing.

  8. I enjoy seeing your process, and am intrigued by the way you use your TNT pattern for fitting, it seems so much more efficient than always making a muslin.

  9. I agree, I learn a lot from seeing how you do things. Thanks for taking the time.


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