Tuesday, October 29, 2013

60s Inspired Vintage Boucle Jacket - Construction

The best thing about using a previously sewn pattern is that you can just cut and sew.  Your biggest problem is will the design idea work like you want it to.  I wrote my last post about choosing this jacket with this thought process...12 hours on Sunday another 4 on Monday and another 4 on Tuesday gives me 16 hours of sewing time.  Personally I can make a jacket (lined or unlined) in that amount of time from a previously sewn pattern.  8-10 hours is all I really need...y'know after I finish kicking and screaming! *LOL*

So these are the two patterns that I'm using to make my 60's vintage inspired wool boucle jacket:




And these are the fabrics...cream wool boucle already backed with fusible knit purchased from Moods 3rd floor (love that floor!) in the NYC store:



Here is the silk from the collection that I'm using to peek through the faux welt pockets:



The jacket will be lined with a cream colored bemberg rayon lining also from the collection:



Pattern Alteration and Construction ~
The first thing I needed to do was to alter the jacket sleeve.  Since the sleeve on the Vogue circa 1999 pattern and the vintage Simplicity pattern both have a one piece sleeve, I used the sleeve from my dress pattern to make a pattern sandwich to create a new sleeve for the jacket. This will solve my bodacious bicep issues.




Added a center back seam to the jacket back pattern piece.


Then the jacket fronts and backs were constructed the same way described in this post.  So this is what the jacket shell looks like now.  The only change I made this time was to use smaller pieces of fabric for the welt pocket windows.  Since I'm using a black 'n white polka dot fabric that is dark, I didn't want the fabric to show through the lining or the jacket front.




The jacket was assembled and then the sleeves sewn in.  I'm working on adding the lining now but just wanted to give an update on the construction of the jacket prior to it's reveal.



I'm really thrilled with it so far.  It was a good choice for my Mood project because the jacket pattern's fit issues had already been resolved and I like the interesting details that are featured on the jacket front.  Also it really helped that the fabric was already backed with fusible interfacing. 

I love these types of fabric cuts and always try to purchase them when I find one. One less step to do when working on a jacket project.  If you find a fabric that's backed with interfacing, I highly recommend that you purchase it.

...as always more later!




21 comments:

  1. I love this! The polka dots add just the right fun touch to a very classic, elegant jacket. Can't wait to see what you wear this with. g

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  2. Oh my .. that's going to be simply
    gorgeous! Will you be adding
    any "Shanel" touches? ;)

    ~Joy~

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  3. Your jacket is beautiful and I love the polka dot details.

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  4. I really like that vintage pattern, and I love polka dots. Your new jacket will be lovely.

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  5. This is shaping up very well. Love the polka dots for the peep through.

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  6. Oh wow, this is looking beautiful!

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  7. wow, this is really beautiful! that fabric is great.

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  8. WOW!! This is one classy jacket. The polka dot fabric for the welt pockets gives the jacket that little punch of colour to take it over the top.

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  9. Wow, I love this! Of course love all your garments. I also love that you share so much with us. Thanks. I learn a lot.

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  10. Wow, you are good. I like the fabric choice. I always wonder about the fabric that is backed with fusible interfacing. I will have to purchase some when I get ready to work on the many jacket patterns that I have been coveting this fall.

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  11. I love the way you put together fabric for this jacket. I look forward to the reveal!

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  12. Your fabric and color/pattern combinations always amaze me. The jacket is beautiful unfinished, can't wait to see the finished product.

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  13. Whaaaaaat?! Little peeps of polka dots peeking through the welts? RIDICULOUSLY cute!

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  14. Hehe, is that the same wool boucle you tried to get me to buy when we were all on the 3rd floor? Well.. I WANT IT NOW. Whyyy didn't I listen to you?! Gah, your jacket is going to be ridiculously awesome. I love the idea of the polka dots & welts!

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  15. You should be thrilled, it looks fabulous.

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  16. Previously sewn patterns (and tried and true!) are the best! Love the look of your jacket!

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  17. Those welt openings just make it look soooo expensive! You will get loads of compliments especially ones that say "You made that?" and mean it looks couture and designer.

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  18. This is going to be such a cute jacket. I love the idea of using polka dots in the welt pocket. I cant wait to see it.

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