Pattern Collecting - Past Present & Future

About 8-9 years ago I was neck deep into collecting vintage patterns. My era of choice was 60s Jackie Kennedy style suits and 60s mod fashions. I was also highly enamoured of Sybil Connolly patterns. I spent a lot of time on eBay and Etsy tracking down Sybil Connolly patterns...A LOT OF TIME! I was also a regular on a couple of vintage pattern sites...always searching to add more styles that I liked to my personal collection.

I'm writing about this because I was looking for a pattern recently amongst the piles of patterns in the sewing cave searching high and low in drawers, containers and the plastic file cabinets. I would say that patterns are the second most abundant item in the sewing cave, right after fabric!

Anyway during the search, I found my stash of vintage patterns.  They are stored in several out of the way drawers, probably because I rarely think about them now that they've been bought, received and admired. I know that it was mostly the hunt for them that gave me joy because I only sewed a couple of the patterns. 

The pattern used the most was this jacket pattern ~ Vogue 2285:

I loved this pattern so much that I made it in 2008 as an Easter Suit and then again in 2013 and would love to figure out a way to add it to my wardrobe now. Can you imagine this in a great denim?

Another pattern that I used and would love to make again is Vogue 5265. 

I made this dress in 2008 and wore it quite a few times that year even with the belt! It was an interesting learning experience. The journey is detailed here.

So the trip down memory lane made me realize that there are still an abundance of Vogue Couturier, Vogue Paris Original, Vogue Americana, Simplicity, Butterick, McCall's and by no surprise Donna Karan patterns on eBay. It's the wonders of the Internet's Greatest Garage Sale. This is not meant to omit other older patterns of every era. If you're willing to look, they can be found. I did start a Flickr album of some of the vintage patterns in my possession. You can see them here.

Why am I discussing this? Because patterns have been around for decades! Indie designers are nothing new. I found loads of indie patterns in my collection from the 80s & 90s, Purrfection (now Dana Marie Design Co.), Lois Ericson, LaFred, Loes Hinse Design, L.J. Designs - shown below.

Patterns like fabric, needle & thread, scissors and a sewing machine are all essential to making an item...whether it be a garment, a quilt, a toy or an accessory. Being an active member of the online sewing community, I'm often amazed at how "in the present" we are and how we seldom look back at what came before.  

Yes, there is an active vintage sewing community who focus on certain eras that they admire and sew from but that's just a portion of the community. What about the majority of the community?  Do we look back and recognize the past? Do we realize that some of those cool boho looks that indie designers are selling now have already been around?  And that those patterns can still be found at the great internet garage sale?

Sometimes as someone who's been sewing for over 46 years, its hard to reconcile. It's also hard not to sound like a dinosaur or the old lady under the tree telling history lessons in the middle of the village. Many times I just want to say if we love this artform so much, why don't we take the time to learn the history of it.  To appreciate the journey of those who've come before...to recognize the transformation of the pattern companies and how they've made the journey through the eras to still be here today providing inspiration for us?!

This post isn't to bash anyone or to praise the Big 4 pattern companies ~ though I do believe they are doing an admirable job these days reaching out to their customers ~ it's more to say, recognize the past.  Honor it and realize that we are standing on the shoulders of the sewists/sewers/seamstresses that have gone before. Don't be so quick to dismiss the past in your enthusiasm and realize that we ARE rooting for you to succeed and to carry our combined love of sewing forward to the next generation!

I would hate for 100 years from now that a sewing machine (in all it's forms) along with patterns and fabric are relics in a museum highlighting a dead artform.

...as always more later!

Nine more weekends

Okay I need your help! There are nine more weekends until September ~ and that's including the weekend of September 1st. I have nine more outfits to sew for summer from my list. Yes, that's right! I have waded through all of my fabrics and patterns and come up with a list of nine outfits that I want to make to finish off my summer sewing. So this is where I need your help!?

I am going to list my nine projects on my blog. Now when I go off on one of my flights of fancy ~ dreaming up new things to make ~ I want you to gently remind me to stick to my plan. Usually, I make a sewing list and generally I stick to it. Sometimes I will substitute a project but I never veer as far from it as I have this summer.

I started free-styling during my summer vaca so that I wouldn't stifle my creativity...and I have just kept on free-styling. Granted, I have come up with a couple of amazing pieces but now I just want to settle down and sew my list!

So here is the list:

1. "Chloe" knock-off dress from TNT dress pattern

Fabric: red linen; red linen with black polka dots; black linen

2. Brown & Pink Pinstriped Pantsuit

Pattern: Vogue 8209 for the jacket; TNT pants pattern

3. Shirtwaist Dress from Vogue 2939

Fabric: black/white tropical wool

4. St. John knock-off dress in black from TNT dress pattern

Fabric: Black medium weight linen

5. Faux wrap dress from Simplicity 4074

Fabric: beige/brown print rayon knit

6. T-shirt and 6 gore skirt outfit from Simplicity 4076 (View C) for the top & 6 gore skirt from Simplicity 4074

Fabric: red & white floral knit

7. Eyelet "Duro Style" Dress from Butterick 5031

Fabric: Printed floral eyelet with brown eyelet for accents

8. Threads Dress - Simplicity 3744

Fabric: TBD

9. Sleeveless Shirt Dress with collar - Tamotsu TNT Dress - Vogue 2090 with a matching jacket from OOP Vogue 2285

Fabric: Brown linen

The fabrics...

I have also added this list to my blog sidebar and hopefully I will spend the next nine weekends completing it. I go on vacation again Labor Day weekend and on that sewing vaca I am turning my attention to fall sewing. These last few outfits will carry me through the rest of the summer and into early fall.

So are you with me? Will you help me stay on track? I hope so 'cause I really would like to finish off my list and have some great garments in the process. BTW, did you notice there is not a single McCalls pattern on the list! *Oh well!*

Thanks in advance...it's appreciated!

CC Inspiration Jacket ~ Update

I cut the jacket out from the boucle fabric using my TNT pattern Vogue 2285 which is out of print. This jacket is going to take a little work because, I need to figure out exactly where I want the ribbon trim to start and finish. I can't find a picture of the back of the jacket at Coldwater Creek so I am going to have to wing it.

Also after some thought I realized that I would need to fuse some interfacing to the fabric and to add a double layer of interfacing to the areas where I will make the buttonholes for the ribbon to pass through. I want to make sure that the area is stabilized so that the buttonholes don't gap with wear.

The other change I made to the jacket was the sleeves...since the inspiration photo has three quarter sleeves with bows that will not make it onto my version! I used the sleeve from Vogue 8209 as a guide for making the slit sleeve and added a facing so that I can fold it back. I am also adding a lining to the jacket. I don't want facings from the fabric because I think it will be too bulky with the ribbon trim. So add that to the fold back facings from the sleeves and I have my work cut out for me!

I have no pictures yet but wanted to give a progress report since this is not rolling out of the sewing nook this weekend. However, I have started it and will show pics as soon as I get it completed. I love fall clothes but they take so much more time and effort to get them ready for prime time viewing and wearing out into the public!

More Jacket Construction - Faux Welt Pockets

I bought the Vintage Vogue Pattern from Lanetz Living in a size that I can't wear because I was so intrigued with the faux welt pockets. After getting the pattern home and reading the directions I realized that it was a very easy technique and something that I could appropriate and add to another pattern.

So to get the look I wanted, I took one TNT jacket pattern (OOP Vogue 2285), added a great instruction sheet from a vintage pattern, used several days to sew, had a spirit of adventure and got a wonderfully different jacket.

As the title states, I am going to share with you how I made the faux welt pockets. This is where the sense of adventure, the instruction sheet and a willingness to cut up a TNT pattern comes into play!

1. Pattern Alteration

First, I used the original jacket front piece. I altered this piece several jackets back so that it would have a cardigan type front. To emulate the vintage pattern, it required the high neckline so the original piece was my starting point.

Next, I cut the pattern apart. To get the same seaming detail, I laid the vintage pattern pieces on top of my original jacket piece. Drew a line across the pattern and cut. Then I added a 5/8" seam allowance to both sides of the pattern piece.

The bottom third of the jacket was cut at the pattern waistline which was marked on the original jacket pattern piece. Again I added a 5/8" seam allowance to both cut pieces. (The picture above shows my first attempt at cutting the pattern apart. Because it wasn't working, I then added the vintage pattern to the top and recut the pattern!)

To make the openings, I again used the vintage pattern pieces laid on top of my now cut apart jacket fronts. Using the markings on the vintage piece, I transferred them to my new pattern pieces with a sharpie marker to make dots. Once the dots were on my pieces, I made larger X's so that I would clearly know where to stop and start the seams.

I also drafted new front and back neck facings since my TNT pattern does not include them. I did this by just laying some tracing paper on top of the original uncut pattern and drawing out the facing. I made sure that I measured the same amount on the front facing piece as the back neck facing shoulder seams...so the pieces would fit together easily when sewn. This was done to copy the look of the vintage jacket.

2. Construction

I followed the instructions in the vintage pattern step-by-step.

a. First the darts were sewn in the middle section.

b. Then the top section and the middle section were sewn, right sides together, leaving the sections at the x's open. I reversed stitched to make sure that the opening seam edges were secure. Then pressed the seam open.

c. I followed the same steps listed above to sew the bottom piece to the top piece.

d. Since I wanted my underlays to be the same as my lining and tank top fabric, I used the pattern piece from the vintage pattern. 4 underlays were cut using my Gingher pinking shears.

e. Then on the inside of the front piece, I pinned the right side of the underlay to the wrong side of the jacket, over the opening in the seam. Then the underlay was basted into place. This was repeated on all of the pieces.

f. Next I topstitched the opening edges through all the thicknesses. I used my foot as a guide to get a well stitched pocket. Isn't it kewl how just a little of the lining fabric peeks through the pocket!

And that was it! A little pattern work, a little precision and faux welt pockets! I love this look and want to make another suit from a midweight linen for spring/summer using this same technique. Maybe a black linen with white stitching and a black/white polka dot lining!

I've already done a post showing you the interior workings of the jacket. So my next post will be about the sleeves. And then a picture of me wearing the outfit!

I have to admit that before reading Shannon and Summerset's posts about their love of vintage patterns, I never really paid much attention to them. Once Summerset started to show the instruction sheets and wrote about the detailed construction tips, I became intrigued. I was hooked when I bought my first vintage pattern from Lanetz Living and got my hands on an instruction sheet.

Now I troll the site looking for patterns with interesting construction details. It is not necessary for the pattern to fit me. It is more important to see what new techniques I can learn. And that is what this project and this jacket was all about - learning a new technique! It was a very easy process and gave a tremendous bang for the buck! The jacket also is envogue but different from what everyone else was dialing up at church on Easter Sunday and in my workplace. The pattern and instruction sheet are worth way more than the $3 I paid for it!!! And I encourage everyone to purchase at least one vintage pattern...you may be surprised at what you find inside!

12 on a Desert Island

Yesterday Lisa of Sew Random wrote this really kewl and fun post with these specifics:

• "You have to move for one year to a very small space that does not have access to retail or internet pattern sources. You have only room to take 12 TNT patterns with you. So, what patterns would you take to meet any wardrobe needs in the next year?"

Okay this is right up my alley! I use TNT's all the time. Most of my wardrobe is just a series of TNT patterns rearranged and made over and over again. So I happily sat down last night to write out my list and to my surprise I only have 10 TNTs that I would take with me! Egads! You mean I have so little sewing imagination that I use the same 10 patterns repeatedly! Excuse me but that is truly a heavy revy!!!!

So here are the TEN patterns I would take with me!

1. SW Mission Tank

This is a workhorse in my wardrobe. I have been making this little tank top for the last 4 or 5 years and have made it out of every fabrication possible, linen, silk, wool w/lycra blend, cotton. It works so well with my corporate wardrobe and makes up quickly now that I've gotten the pattern fitted. A couple of weeks ago, I even made it out of a knit and added a bowtie to it...yeah, this one is definitely coming with me!

2. TNT Straight Skirt Pattern

I have worked with this pattern in several sizes and have transferred it to pattern paper after pattern paper when I've worn it out. I have altered my pattern from a smaller size to a larger size. I have sliced and diced it and used it so many times that I don't even remember which pattern it originally came from! I have made it in every fabric there is...so yes this would be in the shoebox of patterns that I would take with me.

3. TNT Pants Pattern

Take every sentence I wrote above and change the word skirt to the word pants! I even have this pattern in several pant leg widths. So this one would go too.

4. TNT Dress Pattern

I actually know where this pattern originated from - Butterick 5932. However, my pattern looks nothing like the original! A have imagined this dress into everything...a Chanel knock-off, a jumper, a dress with a pleat down the front and who knows what the future holds for it! Definitely coming along!

5. Vogue 7944 Jacket

This pattern has only recently been added to my TNT list. It is a notch collar jacket that makes up easily and has seen three renditions in my wardrobe...well one is in the post production stages...but if I needed a great little jacket for any event, this would be the one!

6. TNT flare skirt

This skirt pattern started life as a one piece, floor length, bias cut skirt which I made at least 10 versions of before I cut it apart. After it was cut apart, I shortened it, changed the grain line not once but twice and generally ended up with a pattern that works for all occasions. It was an important piece in my Jackie Kennedy knock-off suit as well as used for my DD's Easter skirt. Definitely sticking this one in the shoebox!

7. Simplicity 3631

When Simplicity issued this pattern and then Sew Stylish dedicated a magazine issue to its usage, I was intrigued and in awe...an entire issue about taking a pattern and making it your own! You know I had to make some garments from it! After much wrestling and pattern alterations, I have managed to make it a TNT pattern. This pattern offers so much and I haven't begun to explore all the variations yet, so this one would most assuredly make the trip!

8. Burda Twinset

I love twinsets and I suffered through the fitting and sewing of several big 4 patterns before I stumbled onto this one. I loved it so much that I bought two copies of it so that I would never have to worry about having it. This has been lengthened to dress length and fingertip length. I have shortened it and made from thin, thick, ribbed and rayon knits. It is a workhorse and a vital part of my wardrobe...into the shoebox it goes!

9. Tamotsu dress pattern

Its funny that shirt dresses are so hot this spring because this classic style has been in my TNT collection for at least 5 or 6 years. The first time I made it from a lt periwinkle blue linen, I knew I had a winner. It has subtle waist shaping, and an easy to apply collar and collar stand. The original pattern came with short sleeves but my best rendition of the pattern has long sleeves. Its been made in several fabrications and my next version will be an embroidered eyelet sleeveless version for spring. This pattern is seasonless and a classic. It would definitely go with me!

10. Vogue 2285 Jacket

Another hard-working jacket that has been altered from the original pattern! I have used it in several skirt suit outfits, it was the basis for my Easter suit jacket and it's original inception was as an eyelet jacket for spring. This pattern is another great jumping off point...I can use it and end up anywhere!

So Lisa has asked others, "What would they take?" And now I'm asking? What TNT patterns would you take, if you could only take 12? Also, do you use TNT patterns or are you a one-time only user? Think about it and let us (me and Lisa) know!!!

***Special Note***

I am pulling the names for the free Threads magazines tomorrow instead of today! So if you thought it was too late to enter the free giveaway its not! Leave a note tonight 'cause I'm definitely pulling the winner(s) tomorrow!!!!

Til tomorrow!!!

What to do? What to do?

So it's Saturday and I've got a pile of fabric from Mood sitting on my cutting table begging me to see something in them so that I can sew up something marvelous and have it photographed by Wednesday. See I had a project...a perfectly good project but it's a little too involved for my due date.  

I purchased the perfect fabric to make my perfect lavender transitional coat...but sickness did me in.  Gawd, I was even going to make a muslin. Bought actual muslin fabric and everything.  I nevah muslin so to say I'm disappointed that I'm not working on this project is an overstatement.  However, I will make it later on cause I really want that coat!

Now though, my self picked Mood date is approaching and here I sit trying to make it work. I've been sewing for the Mood Network for over a year now and this is the first time that sickness has derailed me.  I've been late because a garment was more intricate than I originally thought and picked another date but I've never sat in the sewing cave wondering what the hell could I sew!

I had an idea and I thought it would work until I put my two pieces of fabric side by side and they didn't play as well together as I thought they would. Back to the drawing board.  I really want a dress/jacket combo but I will need a jacket pattern that I've made before so all of my fit issues have been resolved and I have precious few of those that I presently like.  But now that I've gotten the idea in my head I can't get it out.

So I go pawing through all of the patterns that I've made for the last five years and I find this one ~ Vogue 2285 which is so out of print it's pitiful.  The pattern's copyright date is 1999 but I used it as the basis to make a vintage inspired jacket back in 2008 which became part of my Easter Outfit that year.

I've always wanted to make another jacket like it but improve upon the sleeve fit, which is what ultimately did that jacket in.  Also, I really like the faux welt pockets or slot seams that the jacket uses.  I could make this and have it photographed by Wednesday evening.  Here is a picture of the vintage jacket that inspired the original jacket and this new one...

The fabric I've chosen will work with quite a few pieces already in my wardrobe so I won't need to make a second piece to accompany it.  Finally the only pattern work I will need to do is enlarge the sleeve pattern which I'm going to do by using a sleeve pattern piece that presently works. Thankfully I blogged the entire construction process here back in 2008.

Now it's time to clear off the sewing table and make the magic happen...hahahahaha!

...as always more later!

A Chilly Day Outfit - Part 1

This is my first project for 2009 because on Monday mornings it is really cold in my office. It's because I sit in front of 2 very large windows and the cold air seems to just flow in...or maybe its because I work in a very tall building and the building across the street is just as tall so the two form those NYC canyons that seem to harbor cold and/or heat? Whatever the cause, its cold by my desk on Monday mornings.

The second reason this is my first project is because this is a quicker project than a normal Carolyn project...especially since I'm still easing my way back into my overly obsessed, planned to the ninth degree, all encompassing sewing.

So a few stats:

Pattern:

Vogue 2285 - OOP/TNT

(This is the same jacket pattern I used for the Jackie O. Retro suit and the Coldwater Creek jacket.)

Fabric:

Brushed herringbone fleece from Fabric Fixx in New Hampshire

Notions:

4 yards of beige foldover braid

5 - 1" buttons

a pair of 3/4" shoulder pads

2 yards of 2.25" grosgrain ribbon

Machine Settings

Size 90 Universal sewing machine needle

Stitch Length: 3

Some interesting construction details:

First the jacket back pattern piece was cut on the fold instead of with a center back seam which is how I normally construct the jacket.

The sleeves have a seam down the center but that wasn't my original intent. When I first planned the jacket, I was going to use the whole sleeve pattern and place it on the bias. I was hoping for some decorative interest and a little additional stretch in the body of the sleeve. However, due to a nasty cutting incident that I am still to traumatized to speak about...*sigh*...the sleeves had to be cut out in pieces and then sewn together before inserting into the jacket.

I also added two inches to the body of the jacket fronts and back because I wanted the warmth. What do I mean? Normally, this is a shorter jacket - see here - and since I plan on wearing this jacket over a pair of pants, I wanted it to cover my behind a little more - for warmth! *smile*

I also basted on grosgrain ribbon facings to the jacket front before sewing down the foldover braid trim. I went through several buttonhole applications in my mind but I didn't want to overly complicate the construction process. By adding the ribbon facings, I could make regular sewing machine buttonholes without having any issues with them sinking into the fleece.


The foldover braid was added to the flat sleeve hems before the sleeves were stitched into the jacket. I cut 1.5" off the hem area so that the sleeves wouldn't be too long. Also the sleeves were sewn in flat, not in the round, in the jacket. I was concerned about easing the fleece into a circle...I wasn't sure that it would ease well without puckering...so I used a flat construction. This worked very well. The final thing I did to the sleeve seams was to trim them from notch to notch on the underarm seam to relieve some of the excess bulk in that area.

After sewing up the side seams and pressing them flat, I pinned the foldover braid to the entire jacket...fronts, back and hemline area. After insuring that it was pinned on properly & securely, I slowly sewed the entire binding down using my sewing machine.

A few hints:

~Most books tell you NOT to press fleece because it burns. I have never been able to get seams to lay flat with finger pressing so I've developed a technique where I press seams lightly using a silk organza pressing cloth, with the iron on a silk setting. Very little pressure and quick presses followed by the clapper sitting on the seams works for me. This can be a little time consuming but I've never burned a piece of fleece since I started using this method.

~The foldover braid was applied flat on the sleeves with a 1/2" of overlap left. When I sewed up the sleeve the unfinished edge of the braid was left. I folded it under and added a few hand stitches and it neatened the braid up nicely.

~The buttons were sewn on using a brown embroidery floss to give a little interest to the buttons. Since it's thicker than regular thread I only had to make 2 passes through the holes and made a great thread shank on the buttons underside.

I'm off to work on the pants to go with the jacket. I have several vanilla colored turtlenecks (both sleeveless and long sleeved) that can be worn with this outfit so I won't be making a top to complete this outfit.

Part 2 tomorrow!

Jackie O Retro Suit Jacket ~ Thus Far

I am calling this project the Jackie O Retro Suit but in actuality she was still Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy when she wore this suit during the 1960 Presidential Campaign. Its just that the Jackie Kennedy Onassis I remember is the hip woman who lived, worked and played in NYC ~ where she was photographed with those big shades, long hair flowing, wearing the latest fashions walking around NYC.

First a little background on the suit. This information is from the book, "Jacqueline Kennedy: The White House Years." The suit is by Bob Bugnand is made in a black and white houndstooth wool tweed with black braided trim, circa 1959. A 1958 review by Eugenia Sheppard, the women's page editor of the New York Herald Tribune wrote an article about him and that is how Jackie heard of his designs. His understated aesthetic and Parisian credentials appealed to her and that is how this suit came into her wardrobe. The book describes Bugnand's suit as an abstracted notion of Chanel's influential postwar suit with its sloping shouldered cardigan jacket edged in braided trim, skirt cut with a gentle ease of movement, and textural tweed check.

All of these features appealed to me too and that is why I wanted it to be my first sewing vacay project. Well truthfully, I thought that it would be an easier project than all of the work that I want to do on Simplicity 3631 - the Sew Stylish pattern. And I was looking for some results from my sewing vacay ~ because fall clothing just takes much longer to complete than spring/summer pieces.

Project Pieces:

Vogue 2285 ~ is OOP and copyright 1999. This is the TNT jacket pattern that I am using as a starting point for this outfit. I shortened the length and rounded off the neckline as well as the bottom of the front pieces.

Fabric:

3 yards of a tweedy wool/acrylic blend from Fabric Mart

3 yards of a white polyester lining

Notions:

Several yards of a black foldover braid

1 yard of 3" wide black grosgrain ribbon

4 black glass buttons

1 pair 1/2" shoulder pads

Construction:

Can I just say that this is a pretty easy jacket that could be lined and would have accomplished the look that I was going for...but that's not what happened because I am intrigued with quilted fabric ala Chanel. So I took a pretty easy project and made it an epic journey because I spent an entire day quilting lining to the fashion fabric. I have never done this before so I used an article in Threads Magazine (issue #121 October/November 2005) by Susan Khalije called "Inside A Chanel Jacket" for instructions on how to quilt the fabric and lining together.

Quilting the fashion fabric to the lining as stated previously is time consuming but the process was interesting. First I measured out large pieces of both the fashion fabric and the lining making sure that the grainlines were correct for both pieces. Then I pinned the lining to the fabric using a lot of pins.

I stitched the two pieces together using the plaid as the guideline ~ stitching from the lining side. I would sew down one row, skip a row, and then sew the next. It made my quilted rows about 1.5 inches apart. I used one color thread on the top and another on the bottom so that the thread would coordinate with both pieces. Directional sewing was very important here. I sewed top to bottom only ~ never flipping the piece and sewing bottom to top. This kept the tension in the rows right.

After each piece was quilted, I then steam pressed the front and back of the piece.

The pattern pieces were laid on top of the quilted fabric and cut out. Now, if I was using a true Chanel technique, I would sew the seam first and then hand stitch the lining closed over it. However, my fabric was very ravelly and I really only wanted the quilted look to the fabric and lining so I took my fabric to the serger and serged the edges of the pieces. I used flat felled seams to sew the garment together. To finish the seams off, I cut a strip of lining fabric and sewed it flat over the seam.

The sleeve in this pattern is a one piece sleeve but I had huge pieces of quilted fabric left over and I couldn't bear the thought of quilting more fabric. So I made the sleeve a two piece sleeve with a seam down the center. This allowed me to use the leftover fabric and achieve a well fitted sleeve.

I added black grosgrain ribbon to the center fronts to give stability to the front of the jacket without taking away some of the softness of the cardigan type jacket. It will also give stability to the buttonholes and the buttons that will be placed on the front of the jacket.

The last and probably most important aspect of this jacket was matching the plaids. To achieve a perfect match, each piece was cut separately and then laid next to the fabric and pattern piece so that the plaids matched perfectly. This is also a simple plaid so I only had to do basic matching. The next interesting match was at the armholes. I matched the plaids from the front sleeve notch and shoulder seam to the back sleeve notch. This worked well and I am basically pleased with the way the plaid matches in the front.

Finally after the jacket was constructed, I added the black foldover braid to the entire jacket. The last part was to add shoulder pads. After pinning in a 1/2" shoulder pad and a 3/4" shoulder pad to check how they looked in the jacket, I settled on the 1/2" shoulder pads.

So here is the jacket so far ~ on Lulu (who is much more broad shouldered than I am). I am waiting for the black glass buttons to arrive from Fabric Mart to finish the jacket.

Next up ~ the Jackie O Retro Suit skirt...

This & that and a little vintage, too!

I know, I know I should be posting about embellishing a garment but after a long and tedious week at work and a weekend full of activities, all I want to do is SEW!

I have two grumble, grumbles...first whose bright idea was it to move Daylight Savings Time into March...I mean really...I liked having light early in the morning instead of at the end of the day... So now instead of going to the bus stop at 6:30 am in the kewl morning light...it is still dark as I'm trudging across the field to the street to the bus stop...and I am coming home so late I still don't see the "extra" light at the end of the day...oh wait, I'm a liar, I see it from my office window! W-h-o-p-p-e-e!

And my second grumble is who moved Easter up so early...ummmm, the Easter activities are just coming up wayyyyy too fast for me! One, my Easter dress is still in flat fold fabric - thank goodness I have next Thursday and Friday off! And that means that all of my March weekends are taken up with family activities...I usually don't have to do these things until April!!!

grumble, grumble, grumble...

People I have the wanna sews BAD! I haven't sewn anything since the twinset back in February BEFORE I got sick! The "Menswear Lace" dress that was just a quickie fix project! And I have ideas...boy, do I have ideas swirling around in my head begging to be made into something! My finished garment total is just an abomination...7 items in three months...*sigh*

And the fabric and the patterns and the notions...they just keep on coming! 'Cause you know if I'm not sewing something...I'm buying something...its truly a shame! Well, at least I'm supporting the home sewing industry!

Lately I have been on a real vintage pattern kick...not because I want to make them but because the instructions and attention to detail in the garments is the look I am "longing" for...notice I said longing 'cause I ain't sewing! So, Lanetz Living was running a sale on patterns and I bought these:

This one in my actual size - cause I would love a bowtie dress - not sure about the sleeves and will definitely use my TNT dress pattern to "Make it Work!" (Karla that was for you!)

This one because I wanted to see how they constructed the pockets in the seams...

And ooooohhhh the instruction sheet on this one is full of interesting tidbits! I am going to use my TNT, Vogue 2285 - OOP, as my jacket pattern but all of the information in this pattern will be used to construct it...especially since I bought this pattern in a size 12 and that ain't no where near fitting my bodaciously plump body! *LOL* But since I was after the instructions - $3.00 for some great information was pennies in my eyes!

This final pattern was purchased for the detailing...

I just have to figure out how to work this detailing into an outfit for me...again not in my size (16.5) but the instruction sheet is worth its weight in gold.

While a lot of fabric has made its way to my home in the last several weeks, I won't bore you with pictures of beautiful and luscious fabrics...instead I will attempt to make some of them up! Yeah, right! *LOL*

So think of me kindly and with good thoughts over the next few weeks...'cause I don't know how much sewing I'm going to get done and hopefully I won't explode or implode from the drought!

Enjoy your sewing journeys...and I will get back to embellishing a garment, I promise!

60s Inspired Wool Boucle Jacket

I found this awesome wool boucle on the Third Floor of Mood's NYC store.  I know people have favorite sections of the store but me, I love the third floor because it's magical!  You never know what you'll find there and every time I climb the stairs, I find the most amazing treats.

To be honest, I've had this piece for a minute.  When Todd pulled it off the rack for me, I squealed with joy because not only is it a beautiful creamy medium weight boucle but it's also backed with interfacing. And yes, Lauren this is the piece that I tried, begged & pleaded with you to buy but you passed.  Ummm, next time you'll listen to me about everything, right?!  *LOL*

Peoples when I find a fabric that's backed with interfacing it's like finding a pot of gold at the end of a rainbow.  It's like the Holy Grail of fabrics - one to be wished and hoped for...to be ever in search of...because a pre-fused piece of fabric is so wonderful to work with that like a druggie looking for a fix...I'm constantly in search of it!  *LOL*

Now I know you think I'm being extreme but I'm not...cause I purchased 2.5 yards of this loveliness...

...and this is what I made!

Patterns used to make this jacket ~
Vogue 2285 - circa 1999 and vintage 60s Simplicity 5144

Notions ~
White bemberg lining
Black & White polka dot silk used in the faux pockets 
White rayon seam tape
3/4" shoulder pads

All of the construction details regarding the sewing of this jacket are included in this post.  I didn't make any changes from my first version of this jacket but it was wonderful having a road map to assist me with it.  I made this one closer to the pattern envelope's illustration...not including any closures.  My original version did have closures on it ~ buttons backed with fabric covered snaps.

The thing I love the most about this jacket is the faux welt pockets with the black polka dot fabric inserts.  Aren't they kewl?  Of course, the instruction sheet for the Vintage Simplicity Pattern explains exactly how to accomplish this so that even a newbie could handle making these.  It's one of the things I love about vintage patterns, they have the kewlest details that really make the finished garment special.

Here is a close up of the details of the jacket modeled on Lulu.  Not only is this jacket on trend ~ vanilla is hot, hot, hot for fall/winter ~ but it goes with so many garments already living in my closet.  Another plus!  And doesn't that pin look fantastic with the jacket?!  I have loads of pins collected over the years that will work well with the jacket too.

A few more pictures of the jacket in action...

Thanks for all of the photography tips on my last post. I will be putting them to good use. Amy & Marce I will remember about direct sunlight but all that talk about lens was like alien speak to me!  LOL!  And here I thought direct sunlight was better than shade or a cloudy day even...not to mention ignoring the fact that all of my neighbors were staring at me like I was crazy cause you know people stand in the street posing with two little kids running around screaming and the photographer going don't move, don't move in a very loud voice! 

Finally here's a sneak peek at my next make which will be featured on The Mood Sewing Network tomorrow.

...as always more later!

Picture This...

Okay to substitute for the fact that I did next to no sewing this weekend, I took pictures of some of the combos of the "CC Inspired Wardrobe". We have a series of important meetings in the office this week, so this and the Jackie O Retro Suit will finally make their debuts!

This is what I will wear tomorrow ~ The cardigan and dress.

The dress is of course Simplicity 3631 and the cardigan has been in my wardrobe for several years. I went through a huge phase where I was sewing a lot of twinsets about three years ago. This cardigan was made from a wool/lycra jersey purchased from JoMars and I used Burda 8869 which is OOP and a TNT pattern.

The dress and jacket

The jacket is made from a tweed fabric from Ebad Fabrics in NYC. I got four yards of this out of one of his bargain boxes. I used Vogue 2285 for the jacket. I have of course modified and changed the pattern which is now OOP.

The jacket, skirt and purchased top

I bought this cowl neck top during my snoop shopping at Macy's Herald Square during the summer. It works wonderfully with the jacket and skirt. The skirt is my 4 gore TNT skirt. I love this skirt pattern because it just works so well in my wardrobe. This has to be its 10th or 11th incarnation. When I say TNT, I mean TNT! *LOL*

Love the way the top looks with the skirt and my daughter did such a good job with the photo shoot that I had to include this one!

The cardigan, embellished tank top and pants

The embellished tank top is from Simplicity 3631 from the same tan tropical wool that was used in the dress. The lace was bought from my favorite NYC trim store - Daytona Trimmings and is probably the most expensive part of the outfit! The pants are from worsted wool crepe from Fabric Mart. I am actually proud of the fact that this fabric went from the box to the cutting table instead of languishing in my fabric closet! My pants are from my TNT pants pattern - the slimmer leg version.

I cut out two more tops for this wardrobe this weekend both from the Sewing Workshop Mission Tank pattern ~ one from the tan/brown knit print and one from the brown sueded silk. I also cut out the straight skirt from the tan tropical wool so whenever the mood strikes me to sew again at least those steps will be done.

Hopefully I will be inspired to work on one of the dresses relatively soon since the temperatures are only dropping lower...*sigh* Hope you enjoy the pictures! And as always more shots can be found in my Flickr album.