Question of the Day...

Do we as garment sewists really need this?

Or have we become so willing to use a gadget instead of learning a skill? Seriously, unless you are a quilter and needs hundreds of yards of bias binding, why would you invest in that machine or this one?

Do we need to purchase every new tool, every new make it faster, quicker, easier accessory to sew with instead of just learning the time tested techniques that have made our art great and long lasting?

Seriously, how hard or time-consuming is it to learn to cut bias tape and then make bias binding or am I missing something here? So today's Question of the Day is, "Do we as garment sewists need these tools to sew better? If yes, why? If no, why not?"

Talk to me people because in these economic times I just can't see spending $79.99 for the cutter or $99.99 for the bias tape maker. If I'm wrong educate me...because I just don't get it!

No sewing here

...but a whole lot of planning! And a little pre-washing of the next set of fabrics...

I didn't really feel like sewing this weekend...and at some point I realized that the last two garments for the Gelato collection were add-ons and not in the original plan. So if I get to them, I get to them...if not, that's good too!

Besides working out the plan for the start of my fall sewing...I also pulled and prewashed all of the fabrics for "The Pumpkin Seed" collection which I will start making next weekend!

Here's a little intro to the collection:

"The Pumpkin Seed Collection is a set of garments under one banner portending the seeds of change. The collection looks forward to gentler days and cooler nights...the shedding of leaves and the first touch of frost...it's for that transitional period where its summer one day and fall the next. The colors and the pieces will work for anything the weather may throw at me..."

The garments are:

1. Pumpkin Orange Linen - McCalls 5007 jacket with brown topstitching, TNT lined sheath dress and lined straight skirt.

2. Blue/Orange floral linen from 4 gore TNT bias cut skirt

3. Corally orange & beige polka dot silk in a vintage Simplicity dress pattern

4. Liz Claiborne orange print with pumpkin linen accents in McCalls 5620 dress pattern

5. Orange/green multi print dress using Simplicity Pattern 2958

I know the plan is heavy on dresses but this is perfect dress wearing weather and I plan to make use of every minute of it!

...as always, more later!

Shopping the Collection for Fall

I'm kind of proud of myself...okay...I'm very proud of myself! *LOL* I've managed not to buy anything from the Fabric Mart sale (which is ending soon!) or from any of the other online vendors this week. And now after shopping my fabric closet for combos for my newly purchased Vogue patterns...I see no need to load a shopping cart basket! *Shew* But it was a close one there for a minute.

Since I'm sooooo anal and list-oriented with my sewing, I've already named the collection of garments that I will sew for fall. I'm calling them "An Elegant Fall"...isn't that kewl? And if you don't mind, I would like to show you a few of the combos that I will start with...

This Badgley Mischka Dress ~ Vogue 1121:

With this painted brown herringbone from the now defunct Textile Studios:

Vogue 1127 ~ Badgley Mischka Jacket & Skirt:

With these fabrics - Burgundy wool crepe, brown silk print & burgundy tweed:

This Michelle Obama knock-off dress ~ Vogue 8593:

With this navy blue doubleknit from the Vera Wang Lavendar Collection (Fabric.com):

Finally this Rachel Roy dress worn by Michelle Obama:

In these fabrics - blk/wht/gray silk blend, cranberry silk, cranberry paisley knit:

And I also bought these Vogue patterns:

Vogue 8607

Vogue 8606

Vogue 8605

Vogue 8600

Vogue 8596

Vogue 1128

Now I'm all ready for fall sewing in the middle of July! *LOL* Just have to finish up those last two pieces of the Gelato collection and make up the pieces in "The Pumpkin Seeds" collection (the newly renamed Orangina Collection). But I'm good...not antsy about sewing up these beauties at all because I will take my first sewing vacation of the year, during Labor Day week. I have a plan...well several...and I'm ready!!!

As always...more later!

Do you Club BMV?

If not...you are missing out today!!! Vogue Patterns sent an email last night that all Vogue, Butterick and McCalls patterns are $4.75 - that's $4.27 for you club members! Now normally this would just be a regular sale - partake or don't! But if you are jonesing for the new fall Vogue patterns...load your carts people 'cause they are on sale today and tomorrow ONLY at that fantastic price!

I know, I know you are thinking the craft store that masquerades as a fabric store will have a better sale sometime soon...and you are probably right. But why not order from the source?! The place that will have every size and send it right to your mailbox!

I've already ordered mine...even have some fabric choices from "The Fabric Collection" ready to go with them...

Remember today and tomorrow ONLY! Enjoy!!!!

The Workings of a Fanatical Mind

So I'm on my iTouch perusing the Resort 2010 collection of Chado Ralph Rucci on Style.com...I really like this dress by the way:

...and I come across these words...

"The MO at Chado is the careful refining and evolution of Ralph Rucci's now signature techniques like suspension and slot seams. His customers like it that way (and so, apparently, do aficionados of Vogue Patterns. Rucci's are the number one seller in all categories—who knew?). Loyal clients and sew-it-yourself types won't be disappointed with Rucci's Resort collection, but he might win some new fans with his uncharacteristically sunny palette."

Isn't that like the kewlest! It's been going round in round in my head since I read it!

Then I made this to keep from buying a piece of fabric:

I have one more dress to add to the pic...but I'm feeling good about this entire Gelato collection now that's it almost done...and Nan to answer your question...orange is up next! I already have two orange pieces in my summer wardrobe but orange is a good transition color for summer into fall. I don't plan on making as many pieces for the "Orangina Collection" as I've made for the Gelato Collection. I'm also still playing with some of the fabric and pattern choices in my mind...so I don't have anything on paper yet...I don't want to torture myself because I need to finish the last pieces of Gelato.

Finally, after a rough day yesterday...I came home to find these in the mailbox:

These are from my wonderful sewing friend Sharon...who must know where to find any vintage pattern on earth! This is what really sent me whirling...

I've always wanted a Vogue American Designer pattern and even though I search religiously I've never found an affordable plus size one. The awesomely amazing Sharon found me this Oscar de la Renta pattern in a size 20.5!!! Somehow I will have to incorporate this into my fall sewing! Thanks Sharon!

Lastly, I've spent today struggling with my fabric demons...they want me to place an order for more of the silk/cotton blends from Fabric Mart...that's down to two pages worth, btw...but I held strong and resisted...for now *sigh*

More later!

Gelato Collection - Number 7

...that's garment number 7...which is the yellow silk/cotton paisley print 4 gore skirt. Can I just say that this is the softest, drapiest fabric...and wonderful to work with! There are still 3 pages of it on Fabric Mart's site and it is marked off 30% during the entire website sale!

Commercial break over...some stats:

Fabric:

2 yards Silk/cotton yellow paisley print

2 yards yellow ambiance rayon lining

Notions:

1 yard 1" wide non-roll elastic

As I said previously, this is a simple sew. I've made so many of these skirts that I can sew it on autopilot. However, I did make a change to the way I applied the lining in this particular skirt. Normally, I place the lining's wrong side to the skirt's wrong side and baste the two pieces together. Then I fold the casing for the elastic over into the interior of the skirt and stitch it down.

For this skirt, I placed the wrong side of the lining to the right side of the skirt. I then stitched the two together....pressed the seam open and flipped the lining inside the skirt.

Pressed the lining and fashion fabric flat to make a finished edge for the elastic casing. It makes for a much cleaner application. I will probably use this finish more in the future than the quicky way I've been doing it. After inserting the elastic and stitching the casing closed, I did a simple machine stitched hem and the skirt was finished.

I'm glad that I found a way to use this piece of fabric especially since this is my last yellow piece and garment for the season. I think I've worn the color yellow out! *LOL*

Here's a photo of how I wore the lime green & white herringbone skirt to work yesterday:

...as always...more later!

Weekend Update

As I was putting clothes back into the closet yesterday, I realized that I have barely worn any of my summer skirts. I use to make loads of skirts in all kinds of lengths and widths because my work wardrobe staple was a twinset and skirt. Since that has changed, I don't wear skirts as much anymore unless a jacket is involved.

So I'm always thrilled when July and August rolls around...the temperatures get hotter and the dress code gets a little looser. In honor of that occurrence...this week will be skirt week for me! To celebrate I made these two new skirts:

Both are made from my TNT 4 gore skirt pattern...which is an evolution of or bastardized version of this OOP McCall's pattern:

The first one is lined and made from the yellow silk/cotton paisley print and works really well in the Gelato Wardrobe.

The second is unlined and made from a home dec linen print purchased from Fabric.com a couple of months ago.

These are simple sew garments but will add some punch to my work wardrobe. I still have 2 more items to make to finish up the Gelato collection. I'm starting to get a little antsy now. I'm ready to move on...however, I really want this last dress/jacket combination so I will stay the course until they are finished.

As always...more later!

The August/Sept. Vogue Pattern Magazine

ETA: They're up! The new patterns are up! And they have some that aren't even in the magazine!!!

I received the August/September issue of Vogue Pattern Magazine and since I was amongst the last to receive my copy, I just knew that the new patterns would be posted by now! I mean they just had a sale on patterns...selling off the last of the spring/summer ones...so you would think they would be posted now...right? But alas...there are no new patterns in sight...I know because I've clicked into the site several times in the last couple of days!!!

Okay...I'm obsessing! I know this! I admit this! But you would be obsessing too, if you saw this:

The dress and the suit are by Badgley Mischka - I want both patterns!

This is a new Tracy Reese - love the detail on the jacket back!

I am soooooo loving this Anne Klein coat! I may actually break down and sew one this Fall!

This Five Easy Pieces pattern...I can see sewing an entire wardrobe from this one pattern!

Okay...I'm even drooling over this Marcy Tilton top! I have the perfect piece of black painted shantung to make this up in! No fabric purchase required and that's a good thing!!!

This Vogue Woman topper would work in any lifestyle...

So I guess I will continue to stalk the website for the new patterns...hoping, praying...that they will show up soon and you too can share my joy!

Notes from the Edge

...not the edge of my seat but the edge of my mind! *LOL* It's been a long week at work...really late hours...and lots and lots of drama...so I'm just very tired. So this is just a compilation of odds and ends thoughts from the week...

Recaps

If you noticed there wasn't a June recap, it's not because I'm giving up on them but I do think I'm not going to bother to record how much fabric is coming in. I am engaged in a hopeless battle that I am losing each and every month! So I'm conceding defeat and crying uncle! I am a fabricaholic...there is no changing that fact!

Fabric Mart Sale

I'm sure by now that most of you know that the entire website has been marked 30% off...even the box stuffers and Sample Cut Club fabrics! Now I know you are all wondering exactly what is coming to my a-p-t. Ummmmm, nuthin'. I'm just not interested in adding anything right now...probably because I've been opening that fabric closet door alot lately! But please go enjoy! Buy a yard or two in my honor...it is a fabulous sale!

Yellow Dresses

Did you see this?

picture courtesy of Getty Images


Michelle Obama arrived in Rome wearing a yellow sheath dress! I can't believe it but we are both channeling yellow...and with a fabu pin too! However, I wore so much yellow to work this week, that the head of the company noticed and commented. Nothing negative but he basically confirmed the fact that I've got three yellow dresses now and three is enough! And no...I DID NOT wear all three this week! *LOL*

Hot Mess
That's the striped skirt...




This is a pic of it after a long day at work...and I do mean long...14 hours worth...and it is a hot mess! Wrinkled, out of shape and just wrong...this skirt has totally flunked the wearability test! So much so that I think I'm going to recut it into a straight skirt and add a lining. I looked like I had rolled around in a bed and chased a ball down the street by the end of the day...so it just can't stay the way it is!

Questions and Answers...

"Several of you have remarked that I must be the best dressed person in my office."

Actually, I stick out like a sore thumb. All of that color in the midst of a sea of black! Even on major meeting days, I'm usually in a brown or gray suit ANYTHING but all black! And I don't know if I'm considered best or well-dressed especially since I'm still getting those pretty and professional comments!

Sherril asked, "Did you actually use the pattern and alter or did you take the pleat design detail and draft it onto your TNT pattern?"

It never occurred to me to try and draft that piece onto my TNT dress pattern. I used the Butterick pattern and made a simple alteration to the hip area. I think changing the dress from a pegged skirt to a fuller skirt took about 15 minutes. I'm not sure that it wouldn't have taken me considerably more time to merge the two patterns...and you know me...it's all about getting it finished and getting it onto my body! *LOL* Plus I keep buying new patterns so I really should use some of them now and again!

Marie Sews asked, "what does a "pegged hem" mean? Why would it be more slimming?"

I found a great website that describes how it works on a figure...read this! And this description, "The pegged skirt is a straight skirt narrowed a bit at the hem, sometimes known as a pencil skirt. The default length is to the knee." came from this website called, "The Complete Clothier."

Well it's Friday evening...and I know that I want to make the yellow paisley skirt this weekend...I don't know if I will do any other sewing...I have some things to do this weekend...so you will just have to stay tuned to see what emerges from the sewing machine!

As always...more later!

Butterick 5347

...or why I hate invisible zippers!

No seriously, I like the dress! The hardest part was inserting the blankety-blank zipper and I know that was entirely operator error!

When this dress first appeared on Butterick's website, I knew I wanted to make it. I liked the clean simple lines...the fact that it would work well for summer yet be professional enough for my office...and being a girl who likes a little bling...just a little...I could see one amazing button at the neckline of the dress.

I decided to use View A for this version because I preferred the rounded neckline over the v-neckline. I also think this dress will make a great jumper for fall. Construct it out of a tropical wool or a wool crepe, add a lining and wear it with a turtleneck and boots and it will be awesome! So even though it is a little too distinctive to make again for a summer dress...I will try to fit a version of it into my fall/winter sewing.

Now originally I planned to make the dress from this yellow paisley print. And that was my plan until I laid the fabric on the cutting table and realized that I had purchased just 2 yards of 45" wide fabric...ummmm, it wasn't happening. I CAN NOT get a dress out of 2 yards of 45" fabric. 2 yards of 60" fabric - YES! The other...no way! So what to do? Since I had abandoned the idea of a third B4980 jacket in the yellow linen...I used that instead.

Some stats:

Fabric:

2.5 yards of yellow linen

2 yards of Ambience lining

Notions:

3 yards of beige hem tape

22" invisible zipper

Construction Changes:

*The hem on the original dress is pegged. While this is a very slimming look, I know that I look better in an A-line skirt. So I extended the side seams from the waistline adding 2" to both the front and back pattern pieces.

*I also added a lining. It was added after I tried the dress on and realized that I could see through the linen. I made new pattern pieces for the lining and sewed it to the facings and then hand stitched it down to the zipper.

*Added an invisible zipper instead of a center back zipper like the instructions say to do.

That was it. This is a pretty easy sew. When I looked up this pattern on PR, I found several examples but what struck me was that someone said they didn't add a button, they left it alone and wore the top of the dress with different pins. That really stuck with me because I love pins and have quite a few of them. I loved them pre-Michelle Obama...especially love them now!

So a few examples of the different pins that I can wear with this dress:

Pearl view

Green floral

More pics of other choices are in my Flickr album!

This weekend I finished up two more pieces of the Gelato Collection. I still have three more to go. I just refuse to not use the yellow paisley fabric...so it will become a straight lined skirt. To me it seems to be taking forever to finish this collection especially since I know what I want to work on next!

As always...more later!