Never mind the vintage patterns (60s and 70s) I've collected, as well as, the older Indie Patterns, I bought in the 80s. There is a lot of pattern goodness stashed in the sewing cave.
While I understand why the pattern companies continue to churn out patterns, I'm not buying. One ~ because I no longer believe I'm their target customer. Two ~ because if I really look in the pattern collection I probably already own something like it. Now I know it seems if the online sewing community thrives on being able to use the same pattern you've sewn, however, this is no longer my journey.
My birthday is in a few days and I realized that I will be 70 in 9 years. I need to rethink how I'm allocating my resources especially since my sewing cave is fully loaded. The pandemic has proven that to me. I need to settle into the items I've collected and use them. I possess the skills to make alterations to patterns so they look up-to-date. Then there are the hundreds of patterns I own that are still current but unused.
So I'm not buying new patterns. Are you? And if so, Indie or Big4 or a combination of both? The pandemic has really done a number on our ability to acquire supplies that we need to sew, so I'm wondering, are you buying patterns? This is the Question of the Day so talk back to me.
New makes are up next on the blog, I promise! LOL!
...as always more later!
I gave up on the big 4 years ago. Non-standard blocks meant nothing worked. My favorite pattern company is Silhouette Patterns. While I don't always like all 4 patterns when they come out (Spring/Fall), I always buy the set and then later learn to love the pieces as we play with how they can be set up.
ReplyDeleteI haven't bought from the big 4 for about 20 years-they can be very expensive here in New Zealand. Have discovered a love of knit fabric and Love Notions PDF patterns both of which are kind to this nearly 80 year old body.
ReplyDeleteSince the pandemic I have not been able to purchase patterns. Although, someone in an "open" state sent me one McCall's pattern I had my eyes on. I have purchased a pattern from True Bias and 2 Style Arc's in the last two weeks. I have a pretty full collection of patterns and said I would "stop being lazy" and start modifying my existing patterns to mimic current styles. Since October 2019 I started collection sewing and that has kept me from buying patterns as well. I am committed to use the "unused patterns in my current stash. I'm doing pretty good so far. 5 new patterns since October 2019 is a record for me.
ReplyDeleteI don't have a car anymore and my gym is closed (right around the corner from the Joanns) so no patterns for me. I have stacks and stacks, but I go back to the TNTs and just modify or add details to those. So I don't know what there is for me to buy (although I have a lot of the Tilton Sisters patterns). Also caught a glimpse of the prices on the BMV site: HOLY MOLY. I do go through years of not buying any patterns, and then a flurry of purchasing, so I could just be in a drought. But really, don't you feel like you already own them all?
ReplyDeleteSide note: I turned 61 this January;I did immediately start thinking about finally being able to get senior rush tickets for the opera in four years. (hee hee) Happy Prime Number Birthday!
SJ - those prices made me stop and go whoa too! I'm sure here in the US these prices are a shock given how low they've been in the past. It did reinforce for me that I should just use what I have!
DeleteI am buying patterns, all form indie pattern companies. I much prefer their instructions and I like to support these independent businesses. But I am also selling off my patterns and books - the ones I don't especially like or I don't think I will ever make. My aim is to have a collection of patterns (and books) that I love and make clothes that give me joy when i wear them.
ReplyDeleteFor the last 5 or 6 years I've only bought indie patterns but, like you, I feel I have such a huge collection that I really can sew anything I want by adapting what I have. At the start of lockdown I did quite a big shop of patterns and fabric as I felt I should support the small businesses but I don't actually need anything. Like you, I am aware that I will be 60 in 8 years and my focus should be on using what I have and saving my money! My fabric stash is not as extensive as yours 😂 but I certainly have enough for now!
ReplyDeleteI'm glad you are still doing fine, though in quarantine. I admire the way you work on your wardrobe and develop your own style.
ReplyDeleteConcerning your question: I buy a Burda Magazine each month. Easy to do as I live in Germany, and it is 7,90 Eur for 20 patterns. For me, it is a tribute to my hobby - stamp collectors buy special interest magazines on stamps, fishing addicts on fishing, I on sewing.
I bought two patterns of Dp Studio as well because they are closing their line of printed pattern and I don't like how PDF patterns are designed. If the designers would arrange the pattern pieces in a way that each pattern piece would have its own set of pages, assembling would be much easier. Those enormous sheets are a relict of the old process with paper running through huge printing presses.
Best wishes
Dagmar
Dagmar - I know what you mean about Burda Pattern magazines. I have a small collection and when I flip through them I'm always amazed at how relevant they still are. Now to get myself to actually use them!
DeleteI'm not buying patterns or fabric because the stash of both runneth over. I have way too much stuff and am in the process of culling some of it.
ReplyDeleteL - you know I do donations to the local high school yearly but that is as much culling of fabric as I can handle! LOL!
DeleteI have only purchased one pattern from an Indie company recently. I organized my sewing room and realized I just have so many patterns I have never made, including fabulous issues of Burda magazine. I have TNTs I love to make, so for now I will be slowing down on pattern buying. I would love to see how you adapt what you already have. I agree that you definitely have the skill set to do so!
ReplyDeleteThanks Vanessa! Now you know I will share the process. I think we're all realizing how much we've accumulated now that we're home and forced to look at it all the time. 83 days and counting...
Delete"I think we're all realizing how much we've accumulated now that we're home and forced to look at it all the time."
DeleteThis. And aging. I'm closer to 50 than I want to accept (LOL) and I realize that this is just too much stuff. =)
Carolyn, I'd say about two years ago I really stopped buying patterns like I used to. I would guess I maybe bought 5-10 patterns each year. Two of those were from indie pattern companies, paper patterns, and very unique designs worth buying. I did sew them. I am at the stage of being quite selective with my choices of purchase. It more of a minimalist philosophy than financial although I am a thrifty individual as well. I have culled my pattern collections and right before moving probably gave away about 200. About 3 years before that I gave away about 400 in a major purge. No regrets. I have patterns I love that I make over and over. These are patterns that, like you, I can change easily into other looks and that fit me. Why remake the wheel? Almost all indies look so similar and so basic rectangular that it is rare anything appeals to me there. Most Big Five are remakes, to a great extent, of what I already have so with a few tweaks I can get there with what I have. So the answer is I am buying very little. I see a look I like in fashion and 95% of the time can pick out a pattern in my stash that will easily work up to that design. It also gives me satisfaction to work from my stash. I am so into organization and practicality and not accumulating just for the sake of accumulation at this stage of my life. I am working on using what I have and loving every minute of it. However, the right pattern and fabric can always change my mind! It rarely happens these days as my buy impulse is triggered by real fabric, real pattern catalogues, etc and that just ain't happenin' much these days. Great question, Carolyn, and I hope you are doing well in Isewlation. I am and wish you well and good health.
ReplyDeleteJust want to add that that buy impulse was also triggered by "real" designers like we used to have as a matter of course in Vogue patterns. There are still a few, but not the Donna Karans, Miyakes, etc, at the levels we formerly saw. I would buy those patterns just to collect them and still enjoy rifling through them and appreciating their artfulness. I never threw those out.
DeleteBunny - I totally understand what you're saying. My decisions are not financially based either and I'm looking forward to using more of the treasures stored in the Sewing Cave.
DeleteBeing stuck in the house has given me a chance to do some sorting out. I must have culled at least 100 patterns. I went through them and was brutally honest with myself, was it something I would wear even if I did make it. Only kept the TNT's and ones I know I would use. Having too much stuff around makes it too hard to find the stuff you want. Now I need to sort through the fabrics. I also like the Cashmerette patterns and Gertie's Patreon range. Large cup sizes, no need to do an FBA. Enjoy your sewing! All the best.
ReplyDeletemy patterns all fit into one file drawer now that i've culled them. how many a-line skirt variations are there, really? and pants--do i really want to fit a new pants pattern every season? i use hanging file folders and can put two patterns (still in their envelopes) in each folder. not everyone will like my system, i realize, but it's so freeing that everything's easy to find.--anne
ReplyDeleteI'm like you, Carolyn. I have most of the patterns I will ever need or want. Now I will spring for a pattern that just "grabs" my attention but it's got to be one that is unlike anything in the existing "imaginary" wardrobe or that has a technique/detail that I really want. Though I have added some children's patterns and some home dec/craft patterns lately.
ReplyDeleteTheresa in Tucson
Interesting question! I have recently purchased some indie patterns from Sinclair Patterns. Their patterns are drafted for petite, regular and tall. I like some of the patterns because I am petite and find I don't have to make a lot of adjustments. I have purchased a few patterns during Club BMV. However, I like some others, are modifying my sewing room and finding way to many patterns that no longer meet my sewing needs. So I have either donated them or sell on eBay. I am not buying fabric much either. I did buy two knits from Sly Fox Fabrics yesterday, my first purchase since March.
ReplyDeleteHa! Absolutely not. The prices of the big 4 have skyrocketed to become even more expensive than most indies. I haven't been to Joanns for so long that I have no idea if they still have those $1.99 sales, but there is just no way I'm paying $35, or $25, or even $15 for a pattern. I might pay up to $10 (including shipping) for a vintage pattern but that's a rare occasion.
ReplyDeleteAnd I certainly do not need any! I have so many patterns, covering so many decades, that it's easy to see that no new designs have been invented for a very long time. Looking at any garment design book from the 1940s to today shows that everything from the most basic silhouettes to the most elaborate details have been used over and over again. If I see a style of garment I like, I can easily make a few adjustments to one of the patterns I already have.
I have been sewing for years and have quite a stash of patterns. It is astonishing how expensive they have become. I use Club BMV when there is a sale and can find something unique.Most recently, I bought a McCall's at full price because I know I will use it many times. Linen is my favorite fabric to wear. I buy it online from linen-fabrics.com. They now have a range of patterns to complement their fabric. The designs are classic. This linen is wash and dry and wearable when pulled from the dryer. It is not the crumpled mess that I remember from my childhood!
ReplyDeleteHi, Carolyn! Interesting topic.
ReplyDeleteI have purchased a few Indie patterns, in PDF format, those made in extended size ranges and for larger cup sizes. But like others have mentioned, so many companies offer the same things: wrap dress, a-line or pencil skirt, teeshirts, pants ... each seldom differing from each other by much more than a detail or two.
Because I no longer work outside the home, I really don't need business clothing any longer, just the casual basics. And I already have patterns for those. The only other patterns I'm thinking about buying are for bras and underpants, so I can make quality, well-fitted versions of them. As for all the patterns I've purchased from the Big Four, I'm culling them and selling them online.
Joann's hasn't had a decent sale on patterns since the pandemic hit, and I don't expect them to anytime soon. Even Ebay or Etsy, older (uncut) patterns are selling for almost as much as new ones. Collectors won't worry about prices, but as a person developing a frugal nature, I do.
Instead, I'm learning from sewists like you who share their expertise with redrafting patterns they already have to make clothing that's comfortable and fresh.
I purchased one dress pattern at the beginning of the quarantine. As an essential worker, I have worn a dress 2 times since the beginning of March, but it looked like a good work dress (LOL) and have been wearing scrubs almost exclusively. That being said, most of my sewing has been masks for family and friends and less for me. I have had limited time to sew but I do hope to be able to do some personal sewing soon. I have the myositis dress on my list because of all the beautiful ones you have made! Since my summer vacation probably won't work out, I'm hoping to do some at that time.
ReplyDeleteI just need to stop here and say thank you! I know that being an essential worker and putting your life on the line for others is an AMAZING act of love and courage during these times! So thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
DeleteWhen my husband died five years ago, I started culling a LOT of excess "stuff" and the pandemic has only intensified my desire to have only things I use and love around me. My clothing needs are simple, mostly knit shirts and jeans or loose yoga pants and there really isn't a lot of frippery involved in those. I love the pdf patterns (all about immediate gratifiation) but hate the printing and storing so I've bought a projector (see fb group projectors for sewing) in hopes of being able to at the very least eliminate the need to tape a bunch of paper together. And I've promised myself not to buy any more fabric until I sew up some of what I already have. I had a HUGE yarn stash and I don't want to go down that path again. I think the isolation of the pandemic has let us really re-consider what is important in our lives and when enough is enough - I hope I can maintain that outlook. I do know I've saved a lot of money since I haven't been to a store in almost three months to make any impulse purchases.
ReplyDeleteJudi - my commutation fees and no impulse purchases have definitely contributed to my savings balance. Reorging the sewing cave is high on my list now and most of my recent purchases have been to help support our fellow small business fabric owners. I can do that in an economic climate that I don't think is going to change much any time soon.
DeleteJudi, you're so right. Our current situation certainly should alert us to the need to re-evaluate where our sights have been set, doesn't it? I fervently pray that lots of people see this as an opportunity to reset their direction. Taking that hard look would be beneficial for us as a country!
DeleteHi Carolyn. As always, love your persepective. I will be 62 (already?) on Saturday, so Happy Birthday to both of us. I have bought a few indies and am not buying any more big 4 patterns. I, too, have more than enough to last the rest of my life. And fabric, I envy your stash. Need to organize mine and get my rear in gear. Working full time sitting at a computer all day leaves me exhausted mentally. That is not a good way to be when sewing, so I only sew on weekends. Love and Joy to you, Lorrie
ReplyDeleteInteresting reading in the comments today. I don't buy patterns often but I have decided that I want patterns that have a built in FBA so I don't have to do one. The patterns I have now won't fit me unless I do FBA. The indie pattern companies offer so much more in instructions, some even have videos to follow, they really teach. I really want to learn to fit the figure I have now so I won't buy patterns that don't have the larger bust sizes. Love Notions and Closet Case have wonderful designs and great fit. One comment above from Dagmar mentions the printing layout being inefficient and printing each pattern piece separately would be better. I agree it would be better. I thank everyone for writing such interesting comments.
ReplyDeleteI can so relate - however, I'm 21 years your senior! Imagine how I'm feeling with my stash - fabric and patterns both!! I've not purchased much fabric in the past 5 years - but patterns? OMG - and the print shop in town is very reasonable - so when pdf's are reasonable - off to the printer they go. Pants patterns are the hardest for me to not purchase immediately. How many jeans patterns does one need!?? I probably have most every brand ever produced! I've culled a couple of times - all the big 4.
ReplyDeleteMarcia
Haven't purchased patterns in years. Been knitting mostly. Looked at patterns on line recently and nearly choked at the price!
ReplyDelete$12-$20....I remember when....
I only have four years to 70
I wish you would show your pattern collection. I'd be so interested in seeing that!
ReplyDeleteConfession time: I bought a couple of the new Simplicity patterns on sale at Joann, because they are basic designs and I will use them more than a few times. Otherwise, NOPE. Big-time NOPE. Even some of the millennials and gen-x and y bloggers I follow laughed at the latest Vogue and McCall releases. Truth is, I'm not their target buyer, but I don't know anyone who is.
ReplyDeletejmsx3 - following the hashtags on IG has provided some insight into who is buying, sewing and sharing the new patterns. Though I agree I don't believe we are their target audience anymore and I don't think they care.
DeleteHi Carolyn, interesting question. I haven't bought many patterns in the last 12 months. Perhaps a few New Look patterns (which I really love) and a couple of Vogues. I don't really object to the pricing of the Vogue patterns, if they are on sale for $ 20-30 I feel that is comparable to an indie pattern that is $ 18 or so. Because the Vogue patterns most often have multiple items in one pattern, such as a shirt and pants, or several completely different tops. So to me they are a better value. As others have mentioned, I have plenty of patterns and I see a lot of repeat styles so no need to buy. However - the game changer for me was subscribing to Burda Magazine. I find SO many unique styles in almost every issue, a level of detail that I appreciate and keeping my back issues means that I can find any style I'm looking for with no need to buy a new pattern. I'm just about to write a blog post on how to use the Burda magazine pattern system as there is a method to it's madness and I get a lot of questions about the pattern sheets :) Another thing is that our local sewing meet up group has fabric and pattern swaps so I have obtained so many cute patterns for no $ at these events and have plenty to sew from.
ReplyDeleteI bought a couple of patterns, including Simplicity 8687 that I saw on your blog (thank you). But I have a lot of patterns and sewing books - I feel like I should be using what I have unless I really fall in love with something I see.
ReplyDeleteJulia - I'm glad you like the Simplicity 8687 jackets and bought the pattern. I will probably make more once fall arrives, if I leave the house again! LOL!
DeleteI very very very rarely buy big 4 patterns or indy patterns. I do have a nice pattern stash and a magazine stash. I also have Wild Ginger software. Many of the simpler patterns can be designed and printed using my software, and those patterns mostly fit. I don't mind gluing patterns together as long as the pieces join properly. I am in my 70's and most of the patterns just are not relevant to my body shape and life style. I miss buying patterns though.
ReplyDeleteSince I am still a work in progress, so it seems are my pattern purchases, but gradually I am winnowing down my interests. With several years to go until full retirement, I am past the radical body changes of menopause, and office job dress requirements. But the love of clothing design still keeps me looking at most new patterns. I control what my eyes see by not participating in social media. I follow the completed projects of others in the Pattern Review daily digest, but usually only for big 4 patterns and never dresses, because I don’t wear them. And lucky for me, pants are not difficult to fit. So I am always on the hunt for new-to-me pant options, and because I am forever learning how to work with knits, patterns that use knits are also of interest. I make all of my own clothes except for foundation garments, so all manner of casual clothes and separates are fair game. I draw a hard line at PDFs too, which helps to further limit my choices. I tried a few freebie PDFs, but the time and effort just weren’t worth it.
ReplyDeleteI would love to try some independent paper patterns. I own exactly one I bought myself. Before the pandemic, I was planning a visit to Hart Fabrics to coincide with a trip to that area, and had a list of independent patterns to purchase. That didn’t happen, but I still maintain an ongoing list, though I may never buy anything from it. On the same list, I keep adding big 4s I may eventually buy, or at least have some style interest in.
Currently the pattern stash is maybe over 100, and I have plenty that are uncut, and others I could part with. I have to admit though, I do enjoy an occasional trip the a thrift store to paw through and claim any uncut patterns, especially specialty or vintage opportunities, as well as the rare piece of precious or utilitarian fabric to add to the stash.
I like you, am tending to not buy patterns as much any more. I can see something I like then go to my patterns and find one that will work of even use parts of one pattern and parts of another. I've done it for years... first time I remember doing it was when our oldest daughter found a dress in the J C Penneys catalog she really loved. I did have to buy a pattern at that time (cause I didn't have as many as I do now) but I found something that would work and made her what she wanted for all of about $10-15. Compared to the $40 they wanted. I already had the fabric; which to me means anything I have had for at least a year is free fabric! Lol... she was so happy and believe me if you have ever sewn for a junior high girl.... that's a big deal! Thanks for your blog I enjoy reading all your posts.
ReplyDeleteI have patterns for shirts, dressy blouses, and tees, skirts and dresses, pants, jeans, shorts and skorts, Why buy more? I'm amused to find new patterns for clothes I remember from the 60's and 70's.
ReplyDeleteI am close to 70 and, yes, I have bought patterns in last 6-8 months, but not many. Two Indie, 1 Simplicity and an old McCalls. Honestly, none of the Big4 patterns are appealing to me. Surprisingly, since I was never much of a Simplicity fan, when I have found patterns that I might think of making lately...they have been Simplicity patterns. Indie patterns seem to be my favorites. I use my TNT patterns over and over...like you have been using your Myosotis pattern. I just don’t need or want too many patterns. I like to refine simple line patterns and use fabrics as the feature.
ReplyDeleteI think everyone goes through this sort of thought process about using what we have and going on products fasts at one point or another. When i retired 7 years ago I went through a B I G purging phase. Clothes, books, fabrics (bags and bags of them), art supplies, you name it I purged it.
So, yes I do still buy patterns and fabric but not all that much of either.
Wishing a happy YOU day to a fellow Gemini!
Okay, every time I mention this, my comment gets deleted. But I think it's time to admit that for the most part, indie pattern companies are simply re-inventing what has already been designed (with some few exceptions) by the big four. And I just cannot pay the enormous price for patterns that I already have. Why? They are not unique. Why pay for another fitted bodice, gathered skirt, short sleeved dress -- no matter what fancy name you give it? They often have poor instructions. I've had many that weren't even trued before production. In truth, anyone can call themselves a pattern designer, without any training whatsoever. So, I'm sticking with the big four, on sale. Reliable. Repeatable. Hackable. I'm just not impressed, and feel no obligation to support independents.
ReplyDeleteBette - I don't delete comments. All opinions are valued here.
DeleteThis year I put myself on a self-imposed pattern fast for several reasons. I broke that once when Vogue 1678 hit the spring line, I enjoyed sewing that project. Otherwise, I so over the dropped shoulder and really miss sleeves at fit at the shoulder. Thank goodness for vintage patterns! I'm also noticing more "new" patterns that remind me of "old" ones already in my collection so there is no need to purchase the "new" ones. I did splurge recently and picked up Named Clothing's Breaking the Pattern. I'm looking forward to making a few pieces from there.
ReplyDeleteGraca - I've seen some amazing garments from the Named book but the plus size offerings are limited so not on my list of books to buy.
DeleteHaven’t bought a pattern since last year. I have a 7 year old Grand-Daughter who accounts for the overwhelming amount of my last pattern haul. She is a size larger already! Not using any of those patterns now since I can’t see my Grands right now. Hard to do a fitting in a pandemic!
ReplyDeleteLike most people I have more patterns then I will ever need. I was in Joanne's everytime patterns were on sale and have brought the same pattern more then once. Vogue and Butterick are my favorites. I have brought indies in the past and they have not fitted correctly even with alterations. I have taken college courses in pattern design and alterations so I will continue with the big four. After reading the comments, I will use the patterns I have.
ReplyDeleteI've slowed down the pattern buying lately, but haven't completely stopped. Part of it is that very few of the big 4 have appealed to me for about the past year or so; what has appealed has been very similar to patterns I already have, so those have been easy to skip. I'm revisiting patterns I bought in the 90's as my daughter becomes the age/size I was when I originally bought them, and that's been almost like acquiring a completely new stash of patterns. The one completely pandemic related purchase I made a few weeks ago was an indie PDF pattern for woven fabric shorts with a knit/yoga waistband. It's the kind of thing I'd normally not want to make because it's so basic, but my daughter has outgrown last year's basics and without being able to take her to try stuff on, it seemed easier to make them. I feel like I got my money out of that purchase, especially since the pattern included my size, so when I got jealous of how comfy her shorts looked, I made myself a couple of the same.
ReplyDeleteI enjoy buying 70s patterns on Etsy
ReplyDeleteThe new big 4 patterns are just horrid and I haven't found anything recently that I wanted. I, too, have a full sewing room.
Pat Roedel
I am 73 and I haven't bought a pattern for years. Recently I have away 3 boxes of fabric and 3 boxes of patterns. Have made 100+face masks, and...I am still fully stocked!
ReplyDeleteAfter all of these years, I, too, am trying to use what I saved for special occasions and special times.
I only buy unique patterns these days. I have patterns going back to 1968 and well, what's new now has already gone around in my pattern collection. I have some great big four designer patterns from the 70's likeKenzo, Betsy Johnson, Jean Muir but not much excited me today. I do appreciate the effort to produce cup size patterns and have some of those, although they do not always translate well on the body.
ReplyDeleteI've just gotten back into sewing and have been altering patterns I already own, so no, I'm not buying many new ones. I've got to say, though, your photo doesn't look 61 - you must be living right, patterns or not! Be well, and sew on!
ReplyDeleteI am slowly getting back into sewing and now not fitting my 1970s size 8/10 old patterns found the current ones way too expensive - Vogue $25! So I hit the Op shops/thrift shops and have a trove of older larger size and children's patterns for 20c + each! (grandchildren now) I really must cull them as I have 200+. My stash also gained some beautiful older fabrics from this thrifting too. I have bought a couple of Indie swim suit patterns that I intend to use for custom made beach wear for moi :) Before summer comes back in December.
ReplyDeleteA Burda subscription, may be in consideration for the near future too.
Stay safe.
I've not been purchasing patterns since the pandemic. There are a few Vogues that caught my eye, but like you, I've got enough patterns to be able to mimic new styles that come out, with a bit of manipulation.
ReplyDeleteAs an aside, bluprint is shutting down in the coming months. Just a heads-up for those who have purchased classes/subscribe to the bluprint platform.
Wholeheartedly understand your view of your sewing cave, and all the things you've acquired over the years. I for one am grateful and glad to have everything I've amassed over the years. I have my own fabric and notions store at my disposal, and love everything in it.
Oh No! I love Bluprint.
DeleteAnnette - the letter from the CEO is on quite a few IG accounts. If you want to see the entire letter, try Cashmerette's IG account - specifically her stories. I bowed out once Bluprint purchased Craftsy being grateful that I'd only bought two classes from Craftsy. I watched the series I liked when Bluprint gave away free days because I thought Bluprint lost the original mission of Craftsy. Guess I wasn't alone...
DeleteWhat a probing question, and what wonderful responses. I haven't bought a pattern since March 13th and that is because I am 70 and being very good about staying home. But, I've been very, very tempted with a Kwik Sew pattern (4071) which has the double princess seams in the back that I've been told would be good for my backside shape. I've been working with Sarah Veblen remotely on getting a Connie Crawford shoulder princess seam blouse fitted and have promised her that once the fit is finalized I will make the alterations so the pattern will become a jacket or, a few more alterations, a coat. I had tossed all of my patterns when we moved 8 years ago, but discovered a box of Vogue and Butterick patterns from the early 90s. I've pulled several out for design ideas. I've also looked at my 50-or-so recent patterns and tossed several in a box for the 4-H (whenever they will accept again). I am hoping that I will be able/more confident to take a collar from one pattern and add it to my base pattern, or even draft a collar to fit my base pattern. Even before you posted your question I was wondering if I would ever buy patterns again. A Joann is 30 minutes from me so it means that I have to combine several errands. But, in this current environment, however long it will last, I won't be going out. The only reason I didn't order the Kwik Sew pattern online is the shipping charge - all total it would be about $15, which is too much to see if the pattern is like the one I have just modified. But, for $1.99 I would run to Joann in a heartbeat. Your question about patterns can also be asked about fabric. I have a decent stash, but have decided that I "need" black stretch denim....and I'm about ready to order that. Thanks for prompting a wonderful discussion. Mary Jackson
ReplyDeleteI'm a quilter who is just starting to put my tippy toes in the water..
ReplyDeleteI love the stuff people are making I think making your own clothes keeps you in touch with
your body
Anyway I have tons of fabric , so I want to be careful what I buy. I'm also
9 years from 70!!
In my mid-thirties here. In the last two years, I've gone through all that I accumulated as a new and excited sewist in my late twenties. I've decided that my resources are going to pattern companies that accommodate my size which, with few exceptions, are not the big four. So, I did a big cull of my patterns, keeping only ones I think I'll actually use or just really like, and gave the rest away. I've gotten into pattern testing which has definitely cut down on my pattern buying. I haven't bought a new pattern since, maybe, early last fall.
ReplyDeleteI try to buy patterns that I think my early-20s daughter will like to wear or maybe sew. And stuff for my 5-yo. old grandson. My daughter has only a little sewing experience, so things need to be easy. She is also full-busted, so I like the patterns that have different cup sizes, although she is bigger than their range, so I am trying to get up the courage to learn how to do an FBA.
ReplyDeleteI'm often drawn in by shiny new patterns, but not for the past 3 months, because....quarantine. I have bought some infant patterns recently for the identical twins my third daughter is expecting, and I have adorable little girl patterns (3 slightly older granddaughters, all preschool aged). But I saw a Simplicity skirt pattern I liked a while back, and said, "I can duplicate that! I have a 20 year old pattern that will do that!" I've also noticed that they repackage classics, like, plain, straight, business appropriate skirts, assign a new number to them, and, boom! New Pattern! Enough already! Happy birthday a little early.
ReplyDeleteI've bought one (1) new pattern in the past 2 or 3 years: Liesl & Co's Classic Shirt, purchased in early January or late December. I made 4 of them between January and March. Now that I am retired and in a garden heaven, most of my clothing needs are outdoor work related or workout gear. So many patterns acquired in the past 15 years are utterly irrelevant to my current lifestyle - it's sad and a little embarrassing I didn't get one of each made up when I still went to an office for work. Oh well. Glad we're not discussing the fabric stash ...
ReplyDeleteI don't buy the big four anymore because I have to make too many alterations. I am buying indie patterns they seem to fit a lot better with minimal alterations. I have been going crazy buying patterns since the shutdown and I've been doing a lot of sewing but I have to slow down on buying patterns I've got a ton of patterns from the big for that I've never even used and I'll probably end up giving them away
ReplyDeleteI've bought a couple of patterns (mostly indies, big 4 have always been expensive where I live and their current trends don't really do it for me) but all with a plan of exactly which stash fabric they will go with. That's really been my focus with all this extra time at home - using the fabrics I already have.
ReplyDeleteSeems like the cost and relative availability of big 4 patterns has a big impact on how many of us feel about indie patterns. They run the range from individual amateurs to professional companies, so I think the catch all term 'indie' covers a multitude.
I stopped buying new patterns years ago. I have actually donated boxes of patterns in the last few years. I make my own or sew without a pattern. The exception would be if I was sewing a gown or a man's suit jacket for someone else - then, I would shop for a pattern with that person. I also don't buy new fabric or clothes, preferring to th thrift shop for clothes that are large enough to be recut or using sheets, curtains, etc., as fabric. This country throws away tons of fabric and clothes every year.
ReplyDeleteI slowed down my pattern buying several years ago. Why?
ReplyDelete1. I kept reminding myself that retirement means I won't need as many "nicer" clothes. Even when working, it was jeans and a decent top as my regular attire.
2. the new Big 4 patterns have had no interest - way too many dresses, repeats of past, too "cute"/young. Other than a few Tilton top patterns, I don't think I've bought anything.
3. I've realized that due to all the pattern modifications I do, I'd probably have better results learning to draft my own basic tops & maybe pants and leggings and then learn to modify those to add details. If I did that, I could probably free up about 6 feet of shelf space in the stash closet by getting rid of patterns.
5. the instructions on Big 4 are outdated and lacking. I used to read a blog by someone who made garments from vintage patterns (Somerset Banks?) and she'd show bits of the detailed instructions. No way that would be done in current instruction sheets.
6. yeah - the shutdowns. I've just never gotten into the habit of ordering much on-line, especially fabrics, so even if there were patterns I wanted, getting to the store to pick them up has been pretty much a no-go until this weekend. I did pick up one Marci Tilton top pattern on sale this weekend.
I've considered trying smaller pattern companies with good reviews, but the cost makes me hesitate. I freely admit I'm spoiled rotten by pattern sales at Joann & Hancock (still miss them!) I had been checking out patterns at estate & garage sales, and found some nice old Kwik Sew patterns. Even Half Price Books has had sewing patterns lately, but thrift stores seem to trash them.
Thrift store employees often don't know what patterns are. The one store that mostly did, closed before Covid, and Goodwill packs five in a sealed bag so two mystery ones live in the middle. Nope. I do still buy old patterns from Lanetz Living, now on Etsy. Fair prices, envelope contents checked.
DeleteI'm really enjoying coming back to the contents here. Lots of good ideas. Thanks Carolyn!
I have been buying Indie patterns online- pdfs- and using them. I bought the Page Hoodie at the beginning of lockdown because I needed a hoodie pattern. I wore it constantly for the first 6 weeks. Now its warmer and I bought elastic waist pants that can be cropped- Arden from Helen's Closet. I also bought the Remy Raglan from Sew House 7 because I'd like a short sleeve linen top to use up all the linen scraps in my stash. The big 4 patterns all seem to be dresses-and thats not me. So I haven't bought anything from them. I am more focused now, only buying what I want to wear now. And sewing it up quickly. I'm also modifying TNT patterns to get what I want.
ReplyDeleteNo patterns and no fabric. I'm a nurse and only wear scrubs but as a new sewist I am enjoying using a vintage McCall's over and over that makes up into a top or shift dress that I change the sleeves or neckline. I got a lot of good tips from all the other readers and will follow up .
ReplyDeleteInteresting that you loosened up your commenting options. I listened to your podcast interview recently and was puzzled to hear you bemoan the lack of comments. Not everyone uses google lightly, since they have truly become evil (I work in software/security).
ReplyDeleteAnyways, patterns. I very rarely do Big 4, since they require so many adjustments I may as well be drafting them myself. I do the occasional indie, especially if the designer is well trained in drafting. Some brands just suit me well, like Love Notions is good for my rotund in the front shape. And sadly fashion is not my friend, I haven't worn a dress since my little sister's first wedding 30 years ago and that's not about to change.
Mostly I have a good set of basics, and I take the time to learn to draft whatever variation strikes my fancy this year, make 3 of them, feel happy. If anything my best source of ideas are Japanese magazines. I have always had a small wardrobe by American standards, there's little point in backing it up with a monstrous stash.
M-C - I loosened the commenting options during this time because there are more people home reading blogs. I thought it would be nice to make it easier for them to comment if they wanted to. Also I have more time to monitor and remove comments from spammers so that's why I changed the commenting options.
DeleteWell I am glad to say that people often seem to be getting back to blogging with this extra time, as opposed to just throwing up a quick pic on IG, and that's very enjoyable for the rest of us. Sorry to hear you have a bothersome amount of spam though, thanks for putting up with it for our sake...
DeleteEvery day I have to tell myself "enough". I have enough of everything. Be it fabric, patterns, thread, lace, trims, buttons, notions, etc., I have to tell myself not to buy more. When JoAnn's had their pattern sales, I'd buy duplicates of patterns so that I could mess with one and still have an intact pattern for future use. My resolve is strong now; partly because I've run out of storage space. I have a sewing room & a fabric room. So "no" for now and maybe for a long time as I will be 71 in a few weeks.
ReplyDeleteI really like reading your posts and how inventive and versatile you are in your sewing. I am new to sewing so I still buy patterns. However, I rarely buy new ones from the big 4, as like you I don't think I am their target buyer. I tend to buy vintage patterns from etsy and Ebay. I also like the Grainline Studio patterns and have bought a few of their printed patterns. Though I see some patterns I like that come only in pdf, like you, I refuse to buy pdf patterns. I don't want to spend my time putting them together, nor do I want to pay a printing company to print them full size (that cost along with the cost of the pattern). I know it's all relative, but it's fun to see that some of my vintage patterns were so inexpensive -- one only $.60!
ReplyDeleteI haven't purchased many patterns this year. I mainly purchase Jalie and indie patterns. I went a little nuts with the pdfs over the last few years, but quickly realized the cost of printing them out, either in their entirety or a layer at a time. It was not cheap. I love the multi sized Jalies with their great fit and paper patterns. I have been more judicious in my purchases of pdfs, mainly patterns with smaller pieces or really unusually designs. I sew mainly for myself and the grandkids.
ReplyDeleteBarb
I've been buying some indie patterns - I like the size and cup size range. I've just started to sew with knits, so I've been buying the occasional length of interesting pattern or color. At nearly 60, and fat, I'm definitely outside the Big 4 world, though I do have a collection of Tilton sisters' patterns that I love from years past. I was surprised to find that I don't mind assembling PDF patterns, and all-in-all I prefer heavier paper over tissue paper anyway.
ReplyDeleteSince my work moved smoothly from office to home, I don't have any extra time to sew, but being so confined has increased my need to sew.
I've been making my own. Usually copying off of a ready made garment. I made t shirt pattern, lengthened it into a nightgown. I copied a slip I owned and made 3 or 4 in cotton fabric.Then made a jumper pattern. Made several and have altered a blouse pattern to make summer blouses. Need to alter a pattern to make a light jacket.
ReplyDeleteI'm still buying patterns, but mostly for kids clothing - I really like Peek-a-Boo and Oliver and S patterns. I'm finding that I really like Seamworks patterns (I have a membership). I'm working really hard on finding classics that I can make into TNT patterns. I've perfected my A-line skirt pattern (self-drafted from the start) and have now started adding design details. I'm working on two blouse/shirt patterns which are really close to TNT status! You're sort of my role model in that way!
ReplyDeleteI haven't bought any patterns this year. Of course I do have a subscription to Burda Style. I am going to be 70 in July. Like you, I can make a lot of what I want to sew from pattern I already own, especially my tnt patterns. I'm still buying fabric but mindfully. I already have more fabric than I can sew in my lifetime. If covid has taught me anything it's that I don't need everything. People are another story. I do need my friends and family. Stay well
ReplyDeleteI used to self-draft but lost my sewjo for a while and then changed shape. Now I no longer have a pattern stash and have started to build one again. I've bought a couple of Cashmerette ones and some of the Big 4 that are designed for better fit. I noticed on the weekend that McCalls and Simplicity have stopped listing plus size as a separate category. They are now included with the other sizes. I was happy to see that. It is my birthday tomorrow and my gift to myself has been some leave from work and I'll be buying a few indie patterns and doing a fabric shop. I'm lucky that I've found a way to get cheaper office shop prints of PDF patterns. It was costing me $20 but if I ask for draft paper it is only $5.
ReplyDeleteGreat question!
ReplyDeleteI am a stasher and am okay with that. I have the space and until/unless my stash outgrows it's space, I'm okay with it. I've just been open to adjusting design details (vs adjusting for fit) in the past couple years but still - just simple stuff. I just don't have an interest in really learning drafting so sometimes, ideas pop in but execution is beyond my reach. Other times, I go for it. e.g., I thought the FPC Adrienne was cute but really, it was a scoopneck raglan with volume added to the sleeve plus elastic. Coupled with the same front and back pattern pieces for the bodice (a no for me), it was quite easy to redesign a pattern in stash to copy the features I wanted.
As soon as I finished my SA Clare pant muslin I realized they very closely resembled a Burda pattern. OF COURSE! Everything is a Burda pattern! :-p
You know I have little interest in most indie pattern brands and overwhelmingly sew Burda and Big4. I've purchased 30 new patterns since Jan 1: 27 Big4 and 3 Indie and I won a gift card to True Bias and added 3 patterns to stash from there.
I complained about BMVs online sale on IG and someone asked what I would pay for patterns from the Big4. One of my favorite brands (they work so well for me!!) is New Look. If NL can do multi looks at $4...I'd say my limit for S/B/M would be about that. I'd probably pay up to $5/$6 for something with interesting details or multiple items. For Vogue, I'd be willing to pay more and would probably pay up to $12 depending on the design(er). There's no way I'm paying $15+ for S/B/M and $25+ for Vogue.
I have an extensive stash plus Burda magazines and would just sew from them. PDFs are a nonstarter for me. I'm not doing tiling unless it's a small pattern like a bra (which I don't sew!) or undies or a tank or something SUPER simple. PDFplotting.com has permitted space to try more PDF patterns because of the large format printing. I still tend to avoid them though! :)
(deleted the above comment for weird syntax errors. That's what I get for doing 2 things at once!)
K - you made me laugh out loud about how much you're willing to pay for a pattern. I don't even check the online site anymore and only went to look after you mentioned it in your stories. I guess they've decided to see how many patterns they can sell at a higher price but what a way to reverse course when you've been giving them away cheaply for years.
DeleteI know that the Big4 and Burda work for you and you make some great garments from them! Always look forward to seeing what you make!
I just really feel like the Big4 no longer wants me as a customer and I'm ornery and stubborn enough not to beg you to like me or take my money. I also think there are at least 75 comments here and I wonder how many Indie pattern designers or members of the Big4 have read this or even care because we're not falling all over ourselves praising them. In this economy I would be scrambling for every dollar I could get but just me!
I just came upstairs after rooting around in my pattern drawers for knit dress patterns. And I was thinking to myself, "it's too bad that companies don't bother to figure out how to gain new customers...they'd risk alienating the customer base that built them up to chase behind the unknown..."
DeleteHmmm, I just hit the pause button after I read Susan Young's latest post. She modeled the "Holiday Shirt" from themakersatelier. I had to go take a look since her blouse looked so nice. It was perfect for me and then I looked at the price, 25 pounds (UK) and no PDF. So I've been rooting through the wardrobe looking for something similar and I just printed off the line drawing. Yes, I can tweak an existing pattern and come up with a loose pullover blouse with a collar. This is precisely why I don't purge patterns. Great discussion topic, Carolyn!
ReplyDeleteTheresa in Tucson
Hi Carolyn, Happy birthday. I've made 3 new patterns since January. Before that I haven't bought a pattern for about 5 years,mostly Big 4. Mostly because as others have commented, ' there is nothing new under the sun'. I can usually modify the ones I have. I bought 2 of them. One is a twist Tshirt. I couldn't figure out how to make one without buying a ready made and taking it apart, which kinda defeats the purpose. Also several bloggers of different body shapes made it with good results. I also bought a square necked princess line Tshirt, because I made one long ago, and wanted another one. It does not seem to be a popular style because I only found one pattern in about 3 years. My dear step sister gifted me a suit pattern from the 90's complete with the turquoise Pendleton wool fabric she had bought for it and never made. The jacket was a Chanel style. It was great to sew and very cheerful to work on in January. ( Also, we are from Oregon, so that fabric brought back so many memories of my Mom and Grandma). All three were successes.
ReplyDeletebecause of my age, 73, I am sometimes amused to find sewers getting really excited about a 'vintage' pattern, because I made it when it was first offered. I guess that means that I am vintage too.
I do think that the older patterns had more precise instructions. My husband says it is because translation costs figure in to the bottom line for all companies. So more pictures, less words.
Thanks for the great question, Carolyn
Wise words that I need to fully embrace.
ReplyDeleteI have a subscription of Burda and really enjoy it, so I have about 20-35 patterns entering my home every month in addition to selected Ottobre magazines (for kids sewing and plus size patterns for my mother). On the other hand, I have four envelope patterns that I brought new. Grainline studio portside travel set, S8228, M6696 and Named Kielo and my other envelopes is either thrifted or inherited. Being skinny and young-ish does not help when you are a frivolous thrifter at heart who sews less for following trends (thats what H&M is for) and more for having a good quality wardrobe. For me, envelopes are more educational and Burda is for not having to adapt or make my own adjustments to patterns I already own, I just cant be bothered. My hobby is sewing, not paper craft and more time spent adjusting patterns is less time cutting into fabric.
ReplyDeleteYou certainly do have a fantastic knack for tweaking patterns - seeing your creations is always so inspiring.
ReplyDeleteMy pattern buying has really tailed off, and the company I'm most likely to buy from now is Style Arc - well designed, different, and current yet classic. A potent mix! Vogue used to be my go-to due to them being both a good fit (for me) and having interesting styles. Now that there are less designer patterns I see less and less patterns that appeal these days. I used to buy patterns just to look at (kind of like a magazine I guess), but very few offer that experience now. Great question!
I have a decent collection of commercial patterns but I only use them occasionally and mostly to gain ideas and style lines. About 15 years ago I began exploring the world of self-drafted patterns. Now I find that most of the patterns I use are the ones I've made.
ReplyDeleteI've bought one or two indie patterns, but it seems like the Big 4 are trotting out the same styles every season - and quite unflattering ones, to boot.
ReplyDeleteBut I, like you, have a big pattern collection that I haven't used every bit of (yet) and am learning to trace of patterns in RTW of garments I like on that end. So. Yeah, there's that.
Everytime I send you a pattern and say, "what do you think" ?, it reinforces this notion that I don't need it. I really didn't want to draft, I just got tired of paying money for simple stuff NOT in my size and redrafting it anyway, it's really irritating. Over the last few years, I've come to realize the power of my discretionary income and I'm not giving it to people who don't represent me . So, I haven't purchased many Big 4 because I'm not clear why they don't use their plus size blocks more. I only look at indies (except Cashmerette) if I can't find it in Big 4 or I see it on a sew sis. I haven't purchased a Big 4 pattern in months, I've come to realize I don't like Butterick anymore, there's something way off with their block/drafting. I purchase most plus size Burda's when they are released on the Simplicity site.
ReplyDeleteDear dear Carolyn
ReplyDeleteI am thinking about you and praying for you and your family at this time in a very horrible situation in the USA.
Over the last few years I have made certain decisions re purchasing new things, mainly because I'm retired and on a fixed income. # years ago I didn't buy any new clothes for 12 months, 2 years ago I didn't buy any new fabric for a year (still haven't). Last year I decided to stop buying patterns for the same reasons as you, I lasted the full year but broke down in January and ordered a Style Arc dress pattern that I made straight away. This year my quest is no more shoes. Wish me luck.
ReplyDeleteI hope you are okay, Carolyn. So many people aren't right now :-(
ReplyDeleteHi Carolyn, Today is the first time in several weeks since I read a blog post. And I appreciate you giving me something to consider. It's been tough getting supplies, and even more painful not to be able to shop at brick and mortar shops. So, I'm guilty of still buying patterns, Indy and big 4. Like you, my sewing space is full. For the past two months I had hundreds of masks. Most of the fabric came from my fabric collection. Additionally, I made several dresses for myself. All fabrics already in my stash. So as I continue my life's journey, I too, will need to look at how I spend and inventory all thing sewing. Be safe. C
ReplyDeleteI've definitely been primarily a Big 4 and pattern magazine supporter in the past, though I haven't bought any new patterns from them since the start of quarantine. I haven't been much for indie patterns, and my few experiences with printing out PDF patterns has me totally uninterested in that, though PDF plotter makes it slightly more palatable.
ReplyDeleteHowever, after the way that the non-indie pattern industry has responded (or, more accurately, failed in responding) to the events of the past week, I am much less inclined to spend more time and money on them. Money already spent is water under the bridge, but attempts at "doing better" have clearly not been nearly enough from them in the past few days. I'm not really a fan of "cancel culture," but their recent behavior makes it a lot easier to take an indefinite break from the Big 4. Their target audience has certainly changed quite a bit in the past few months, and the direction they seem to be going is not necessarily a direction I'm interested in following. I've already got far more patterns than I know what to do with anyway, so I'm definitely all for enjoying what I've got and spending much less time worry about acquisition at this point.
I'm really in an "I'm good!" position over here and will definitely be voting my beliefs with my dollars going forward. I will also check in on all of these company pledges in 6 months to see if they're still walking the walk or if the trend is over they've gone by the wayside.
DeleteI have only been learning to sew actual garments for myself for erm... about 7 months now, and I’ve already collected a good stash of patterns. 😂 I do like PDF patterns, but only because I can send them off to the print shop and have them sent to me, folded neatly to fit into an A4-sized box. I don’t like printing my own, but I’ll do it for smaller items like tank tops and tees. Part of that is that I’m in the Netherlands, and the cost of shipping paper patterns from the US or Britain is crazy! So it’s more affordable to buy a PDF and let someone else handle the printing for me (shipping domestic is quite cheap here).
ReplyDeleteI don’t know if you’re the right person to ask, since you don’t like pdf patterns, but you may know: do you know of any lists of black pattern designers? Specifically, I am looking to buy a pattern for a maxi skirt that would work with a border print Ankara/wax print fabric. Would you know of any such pattern? I’ve been looking at M7906, which would work, but if I can find something similar from a pattern company owned by a person of color, that would be my preference (trying to put my money where my mind, and my heart, is!)
Love your blog so much! I’ve been learning a lot from it.
buennhilde - Jacinta wrote a blog post on the Sewcialists blog with a list of black vendors or allies of the black community. I would check that out because you will probably find your answer there.
DeleteJust wondering if you are okay?
ReplyDeleteI've read your blog for over a decade. You are wonderful. Thanks for always telling the truth.
ReplyDeleteI felt this. I can't tell you the last time I've purchased a major sewing pattern. And it's been months since I've sewn for myself not having to do with my company. I have been...wait for it...just buying my clothing off the rack. *sarcastic gasp* LOL!
ReplyDeleteIt's totally normal for a hobby to not hold as high priority as it once has. That's life. That's why it's a hobby! It's not a life obligation.
I'm the same as you and realizing that I'm not the target customer for most companies - and that is totally okay. I'm not mad about that at all. I can still appreciate those designs for what they are, and the people they look great on and leave them in the store. :)
Carolyn, I was relieved to see your most recent post. I was worried about you and your family. Glad everyone is well.
ReplyDeleteKay
I’ve been purchasing more than usual, which still isn’t much. With my other hobby a non-starter right now, hobby money has flowed into sewing along with the panicky need to fill in those few gaps in my sewing preparedness toolkit. Petite patterns (funny but I’ve suddenly also flipped over to ‘life is too short to spend on alterations), children’s basics patterns, indies all. What has changed is I’m also SEWING what I buy, in the same year even.
ReplyDelete