Sunday, October 05, 2008

EOS Twinset Updated...

As I said yesterday, I've spent the weekend removing some things from my closet and picking things that needed to be donated, tossed or refashioned...it is a big job and isn't complete.

However, I promised to show you the EOS twinset finished. Thank God for Lulu because even though she STILL doesn't have legs, she can showcase a top. And since I do NOT feel like getting dressed and photographed, Lulu has graciously decided to step in and help me out!

So to recap, this is what the twinset looked like before:



And here is what it looks like now:



A few stats:

Patterns:
Cardigan - Burda 8869 (OOP)
This is my TNT go-to cardigan pattern.

Mockneck Top - Vogue 9904 - copyright 2001:
Close-fitting, pullover top has neckline variations, stitched hem and short, self-lined sleeves, above elbow sleeves or long sleeves - View A,B - back neck slit and button/loop; View C - raised neckline and back zipper.

Fabric:
Rayon/lycra blend from Emmaonesock

Notions:
4 buttons that Karen sent me as a gift
5 yards of gray ribbon purchased from Daytona Trimmings
9" cream zipper

First up the cardigan:
I have made this cardigan so many times that I can make it in my sleep! It is the perfect go to pattern and since I love twinsets it is always kept nearby ready to be used.

The only change I made to the cardigan is the embellishment that I added because the print just faded into itself. And when it came time to make the buttonholes, the fabric was most uncooperative...so I added a strip of tracing paper to the back of the buttonhole band and made the buttonholes that way.
This is a great tip for making sure that your fabric feeds easily through your sewing machine. Just make sure that the paper is on the feed dog side so that it feeds your material smoothly through the sewing machine.

The Mockneck Top:


This is my first time working with this pattern and it won't be my last. For a wearable muslin, the only thing that bothers me is that the neck isn't high enough...but I will remedy that next time.

Since this is a close fitting pattern, I added a little space in the front abdomen area by using the pivot and slide method. The neckline was pinned to the fabric and I slid it out 2.5 inches in the front and then trued out the hem.

I added 1" to the back seam from neckline to hem and altered the back neckline piece by adding an inch to its center back seam.

Taking a chance I did not alter the sleeve pattern. I did this because I was using a knit and I wanted the sleeves to closely fit my arms...I didn't want a lot of ease. It worked for this fabric because it has great stretch and recovery. I will need to evaluate this with each subsequent version because the alteration will be based on the fabric's properties and the fit I am trying to achieve.

Continuing with my quest to add an invisible zipper to each garment I am making, I originally wanted to insert one into this top. However, I didn't have one in the right color in my stash and since I'm on a fabric moratorium, I didn't want to make a trip into the garment district to find one. First rule they tell addicts, stay away from familiar spots that you associate with your habit...gotta walk by tooo many fabric stores to get to either Daytona or Steinlauf & Stoeller...so I went with a cream 9" regular zipper that was already in my zipper collection.

Now a question was posed about how I inserted the zipper by hand...first I fused 5/8" strips of a lightweight knit tricot to either side of the seams...approximately 10" in length. Then I sewed the back seam closed...basting for the first 10" and then using a regular stitch for the remainder of the seam. Pressed the seam open and then laid the closed zipper onto the seam. I used a lot of pins to keep it flat and then I hand sewed the zipper in. I used very short stitches for the right side of the garment ~ longer stitches for the back side. Once the zipper was in, I removed the basting stitches and pressed it flat.

Showing the zipper with the handstitching inside the garment:


The other change I made to the top was that I used a flat insertion for the sleeves. I wanted to insure that I had no puckering in the sleeve cap. The guide sheet tells you to stitch the side seams closed first and then insert the sleeves in the round. Using a flat insertion gave me more control on how the sleeves were sewn in.

Other than that, I followed the instructions but the picture on the pattern envelope shows a mockneck that is a slightly higher than the one on my garment. I will alter the front neckline on the pattern for the next version. This one will work for now. I've learned a lot about the pattern and will definitely make this again.

Here's a few shots on Lulu...Cardigan over the top buttoned closed:


Back view of the cardigan:


Embellished sleeve:


I like the twinset much more now that the ribbon and buttons have been added because before it was heading to wadderville!

Next up a few more dresses...it won't get bitterly cold until December so I want to make more dresses and a jacket/skirt combo or two before I need to switch over to pantsuits!


22 comments:

  1. Much better with the ribbon trend. I like the print very much but it wasn't reading "twinset" before. Now it does, and quite nicely too!

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  2. Um, that would be ribbon trim, not trend (although it could be that too).

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  3. What a difference!!! it looks so much better now!

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  4. What a difference a bit of ribbon makes. Fantastic

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  5. I agree, what a difference! The fabric is really lovely and now it is framed.

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  6. The ribbon trim really made this! Thanks for the before/after photos!

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  7. the trim really brought it out
    it looks much better.

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  8. Great idea to add the trim. It's made a huge difference. Love the finished twinset!

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  9. My tailoring teacher in high school would call that zipper a "hand picked" zipper. Which shows you how old I am, because I went to high school when they still TAUGHT tailoring! Ouch! LOL!
    Melissa

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  10. I love how that cardigan turned out. The ribbon really makes it special. You have such a talent for embellishment!

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  11. Carolyn - you seriously have the eye. Now that little cardigan would fabulous over a grey/gray (sp?) dress too, me thinks. Good job. g

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  12. Much better with the ribbon trim! You inspired me to make a cardigan also with fabric from eos.

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  13. I love your twinset! You certainly have an eye for adding that "little something" that gives the garment pop! I agree with Gaylen that this set would look great with grey slacks or the cardi with a grey sheath dress.

    Another winner!

    Lynda in LV

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  14. Your designer touches really made a difference. Great twinset.

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  15. I love the changes you made. It made it the ensemble look really up to date and still classic!

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  16. Carolyn - could you provide some tips & hints on making cardigans and twinsets? Do you use the body fabric for the button band? It looks like you did. Was it stiffened at all?

    I would love to take the plunge into cardigan / sweater knits (loved the argyle vest) but have no idea where to start! Your examples are so empowering.

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  17. Amazing what a little trim and buttons will do! They just add the little extra something to the ensemble. Smart job!

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  18. A completely new look - you are so creative.

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  19. The brown trim does wonders to that print, setting the whole ensemble off wonderfully.

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  20. I am so impressed with all of your refashioned garments. It takes vision to see something different after getting used to it one way. You are definite inspiration for my own closet!

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  21. I liked the twinset before the ribbon trim and the buttons, but I like it even better now. Glad the buttons are going to good use.

    Now you have me looking at that fabric again and it just climbed back up on the shelf so I can think about it some more.

    You do have a ridiculous talent for embellishment, you know that, right?

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  22. GORGEOUS!! The added details really make a difference!

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