Wednesday, June 16, 2010

You have some questions...

Let's start with the questions that Bunny and Serenity Love Sincere Peace Earth asked:

1.  Does this adjustment add more to the neckline? Is that OK?
2.  If you add width to a bodice in a part that includes the neckline, won't it be too wide at the neck and hang of your shoulders exposing your bra?

These are both really good and valid questions.  And I decided that a picture would fully explain what I'm attempting to do:


The alteration occurs center front and will spread the front of the dress to the side lengthening the extension and giving me some more room...some much needed room.  This alteration will not affect the shoulder or the neckline extensively.  Please don't forget that there is an underpiece that helps to form the v-neckline and those two pieces are sewn together to form the dress front.  Did I share too much?  Do you understand the alteration or will you need to see the finished dress to understand?

There were a few questions from the "A Trio of Cardigans" blog post:

Animat asked, "Please how did you sew the lace on your machine?"
It was really simple.  I used a small stitch and sewed it together.  This lace is pretty dense and didn't have a lot of holes or open spaces without stitching and I think that's the key to using a lace for a piece like this.

Melissapedsrn asked, "tell me more about the application of stitch witchery before hemming the cardigans,was that too stabilize the fabric first before hemming?  "
I measure up the hem, press it flat and then open the hem and place the stitch witchery between the two pieces...like a sandwich...then I press it flat.  I like stitch witchery (now know as "sw") because it gives it a real solid finish...some sewists think of this as hard, not flexible and that's why they prefer steam-a-seam over sw.  Oh and I use a 5/8" wide sw that I buy on a 50 yard roll because my hems are typically 1" wide and the sw sandwiches well into the hemline...and yes it does stabilize the hem.  It also reduces the tunneling effect that you can sometimes get when you use a twin needle stitch finish.

elizabethe asked, "Why do you stitch and then serge just to finish the seams? Why not use the serger to construct the garment?"
That is a perfectly good question and I think I have constructed the cardigan this way once just using the serger but I prefer to use this sewing sequence.  Probably because I'm not an advanced serger user and primarily use my serger for finishing seams...the same way that I use my microwave just to heat things up in. *LOL*

Bunny asked, "Can you talk more about they dyeing?"
I'm sorry, I guess I wasn't clear.  I did not dye the fabric.  I was speaking about the actual manufacturing process of the fabric.  It is a printed on design and you can tell that the fibers reacted to the process differently when the varied colors of dye were applied.

Finally, thanks for taking the time to ask for clarification...a good question never hurt anyone! *smile*  And thank you for all of your kind compliments on both the cardis and the V9666 dress...you are too kind especially regarding that dress! *LOL*

...as always, more later!


8 comments:

  1. Thank you. I think I understand. I would like to see the finished garment. I once added some room to a sweater dress the same way you are doing it and the neckline became so wide, I have to wear a t-shirt underneath it. Since that, I add off to the side, but then that makes the arms all wonky and the boob area doesn't always come together. I hate grading. It never works right for me. I rather make a garment big and alter it after the fact.

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  2. I am thinking too that you will make the neckline too wide and the gap at the V too wide and low. I would think a pivot and side may work better. But of course you know your ease comfort level and what you are trying to achieve so I probably should just be quiet..lol. Good luck :)

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  3. hi
    thank you for explaining. i only make girls clothes wider or smaller, but i have made mistakes, even when doing something simple like that.now i understand much better.
    regards
    barbara

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  4. I'm sorry, did I just read that you are not an advanced sewer? Are you nuts? Of course you are.

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  5. Well while the alterations, the thought process, and the photos make perfect sense you know I still want to see the finished dress!

    And I too use my serger almost exclusively for finishing. Rarely - will I use it to make something start to finish - even knit tops - which is what they were designed for. g

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  6. I have tried making the alteration the way you are doing it and it NEVERS work for me. so I usually alter after it is complete.

    Basically hit or miss technique which is very frustrating.

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  7. San Antonio SueJune 16, 2010 5:15 PM

    I also stitch and then serge. My primary reason is the seams lay fltter. If you serge rather than sew then the seam is pretty thick. And I also like the extra space in case I need to let it out. I've never use SW for hems, though; I'll have to try it!

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  8. Thanks so much, Carolyn for your responses. I can see now how the extra two inches work and why they work. Thanks.

    I'm a stitch and serger too. I also feel insecure about not having that extra safety space a seam provides.

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