Monday, June 27, 2011

Butterick 3195 - so far...

I've fallen in love with the draped neck look...and after making four versions of Vogue 1250...I think it's time to move onto wovens.  I was so inspired by this layout in the July 2011 People Style Watch magazine:


Thank goodness for a pattern collection.  Because after digging around in it, I was able to find Butterick 3195. 


The pattern description says:  "Bias dress, above mid-knee, mid-knee or above ankle, has back zipper ad short, self-lined sleeves or long sleeves...and it's circa 2001. Wow ~ this pattern is ten years old!"

After finding the pattern, I happily rummaged through the fabric collection and found some sandwashed silks that I had purchased from Fabric Mart a couple of years ago.  I thought that this fabric would make T-H-E perfect draped neck dress.  It would be a distinctive color, as well as, having the draped neckline I wanted and it was bias cut.  I wasn't so sure about the bias cut but I was willing to take a chance and work with it.

After pulling the pattern pieces from the envelope (sizes 20-22-24), I realized that there would once again be some extensive pattern alterations needed but turning to my trusty TNT dress pattern, I made the following changes to the pattern:



I sliced up the center front of the pattern and added space to the abdomen, hip and hem area.  Then I added to the side seams so that they would match the side seams of my TNT dress.


The back was traced and altered by creating the pattern sandwich (TNT back piece, new pattern piece, tracing paper) to trace a new back piece that incorporated the design of this pattern (especially the back curve) with the space needed from my original TNT dress back piece.

When I went to cut out the dress, I laid the pattern on the silk crepe and thought, I should just cut this out on the straight grain...but noooooooo I went ahead and cut bias pieces and there begins the downfall of the first version of the dress...and let's just leave it at that okay.  It was a wadder pure and simple...okay, okay I'll let you see a picture of it on the hanger...


It doesn't look bad on the hanger but it was a hot mess on my body!  *LOL* What a waste of a beautiful piece of fabric, right?!  Don't worry I have more!  But I was still intrigued by this dress especially since I just knew this would work in a woven fabric cut on the straight grain.  I found and purchased this lightweight silk crepe from Sawyer Brook:


This is how the website describes it...
"This lightweight printed silk crepe features ivory and black floral elements dancing over a crackled ground of black and ivory. Accents of soft tan appear on the white blossoms throughout. Great for camisoles, tanks, blouses or dresses. 44 in."

I started working on this dress late Sunday evening.  I just wasn't that motivated to sew this weekend.  Here is where it stands now:


....and a close-up of the neckline:


There's about an hour's worth of work left to do to finish this dress, so I will complete it this weekend.  I'm loving it so far and may make another one from some of that leftover silk crepe but I'll make sure to cut it on the straight grain this time!!!!

I 've figured out what I want to do with the Simplicity Vintage Pattern 2154.  Haven't pulled all of the fabrics yet...but I will have more on that later...

21 comments:

  1. I love the fabric. The second dress looks great! I have made 1 shirt on the bias and am not a big fan of the way it clings to my stomach. Next time I make it I am making it along the grain as well!

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  2. Sure hope you have enough of the crepe to make a second because that color is gorgeous. I have the same reservations about the bias, glad your one on the straight turned out so well!

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  3. You did all that in one evening? Yeesh! Not bad.

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  4. Another great looking dress!

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  5. The one bias dress I have made hasn't turned out too well either (it is still a resident of the UFO box about 10 years later....). My problem with them is the cling factor around the legs - could you lop yours in half and a mke a bias cut cowl neck top?

    I love the print of the second dress - you certainly have a great eye for picking out the best prints.

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  6. Love the fabric and the dress looks great on you.

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  7. Great dress, Carolyn! Since I'm still a definite beginner, I have to ask about the bias version. Why was the bias cut so bad? Does it, as other commenters have mentioned, cling much more than the same dress cut on the straight grain? Is there something else I'm missing? Thanks!

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  8. Bias can be so tricky, not only for sewing, but for caring for the item later. Love your black and white version.

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  9. I cannot comment on the 1st dress as it's on the hanger. I love the second dress. Sheesh you make me look like a slacker.

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  10. Good morning: Dress number#2 is certainly a keeper; I can see it under a crisp black linen jacket, too. I love the idea of bias cut dresses, but the only time I've liked the result was with a bias-cut half circle skirt on a empire top, though I've had to rehem it twice. It's worth it though, since I love the way it moves. You've really inspired me to create some TNT patterns of my own. Have a great day!

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  11. Oh I hear you, I'm such a big fan of cowl necks, too! I'm so impressed that you were able to pick yourself up after the wadder and persevere to make a stellar keeper version of this! Could the blue version perhaps be shortened to a top, or is it bad all over?

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  12. Dress #2 is a winner. I absolutely hate wearing bias so I'm never even tempted. ;-)

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  13. I am loving this dress! The print is beautiful and it looks great on you!

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  14. It's looking good! I have been contemplating whether to cut a silk chiffon top on the bias as directed or straight grain. I think you've confirmed my instinct to go for straight grain. The chiffon is drapey enough as is!

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  15. Great print. Looks fab so far!

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  16. I agree with Debbie - I hate wearing bias cut clothes. When I was young and skinny, I made a Bill Blass pair of bias cut evening pants which clung where they should and were wearable, but anything else cut on the bias makes me feel like my whole body is caught in one of those woven finger trap toys.
    Gorgeous fabrics you chose! And, the second one looks great cut on the straight grain.

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  17. I love that you tried again instead of giving up! The second version is looking great and hopefully you can maybe reuse the blue fabric...

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  18. Well the second dress is going to be very nice. I am not a fan of bias; I have had my hit and misses. Perhaps you can salvage the blue fabric and turn it into a tank top to wear under suit jacket.

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  19. Your choices are spot on for matching pattern and fabric.

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  20. Carolyn, I'm right there with you on the drape neck design element. I'm going to make at least one more version of 1250. And I have a OOP Simplicity pattern with a drape dress that I going to try. That pattern only has two pieces. These patterns will quickly beef up any wardrobe.

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  21. Carolyn: Thank you so much for showing photos! I have made the mistake of buying "cowl-necked" dresses and tops which actually have only pleated collars. G-r-r-r! The real cowl looks like a sleeve cap in shape, maybe not too hard to draft? Also: is it possible that the dress is bias cut because the bias helps the cowl to drape nicely? I can't wait to see a final version which you actually love. :-) Carol

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