Friday, August 09, 2013

The Burda Adventure Continues...

Let's call this part of the journey, the taping, tracing and upgrading of the Burda 08-2012-142 dress.

It took me several evenings after work to tape the entire pattern together...



There were 37 pages of 8.5" x 11" pages to be taped together.  I'll admit that by the end I was fading and definitely losing interest but I pushed through. After it was all taped, I had to decide how to proceed. Trace from the large pattern piece or cut it apart, trace, then add 5/8" seam allowances. Since the sleeve was in the center of the pattern I started tracing that piece but quickly came to the realization that I would cut the pieces apart then trace and alter.

First I need to talk about how I see this dress' silhouette.  I really like how the darts burst in the front. Since I have no plans to wash this alot (thanks Melissa for that tip!) I'm keeping the burst.  Plus I think it really is a bust enhancing feature and when your bustline competes with your abdomen, I'm doing all I can to enhance the bustline!  Next, I need to remind you that I don't like form fitting or tight clothing. Oh gawd but I hate being able to see my rolls through my clothes, so I'm choosing to make this dress a little looser fitting than the picture.  Please realize that this is MY personal choice and the choice that all sewists get to make when constructing their garments. 



However, I do like close fitting clothing that skims over the more bodacious parts of my body yet give me a slim silhouette.  Princess seams assist with a slimmer silhouette, so I'm definitely keeping them.  But I will be using my TNT dress as a "sloper" to assist with getting the fit I like.



After cutting up the downloaded pattern, I made my pattern sandwich and cut out new pattern pieces.  



This was easier for the back piece than the front due to the pleated front...and I think my burst piece may be a little bigger than it's suppose to be especially since I had to figure out the pleat markings. The pattern only marked size 44 and I'm in no way a 44.  Probably will be playing around with the pleats to get the best look for my bustline. So I will be basting the dress front together to check fit.



Here's the ponte I'm using to make the dress...



It's from the collection - woo hoo!  And it's a pretty berry color that will look great for fall.  Yes, just to remind you ~ I am sewing fall now.

Next up will be cutting, tracing and construction.  I may or may not slip another project in before completing this one, of course I will keep you informed.  BTW, Debbie I'm working on this as fast as I can, cause I'd love to see your version of this dress!

...as always more later!



27 comments:

  1. Your comments on fit are interesting. That is one of the things I think is most flattering about your clothes is the fit. I see a lot of over fitted clothes on blogs with nary a 1/4 of breathing room. That fit your describe -- close fitting with out being too tight, skimming over the body -- is the fit professional seamstresses and tailors aim for.

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  2. Thank you!! But no pressure ... I still have a bit of paycheck catching up to do before I can buy the pattern for myself. And months before we see even a hint of cool weather appropriate for it here. I'll enjoy watching your progress, though, and I'll be cheering you on from the sidelines. Love that color for you!

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  3. That's coming along nicely. Love the colour of the ponte. Look forward to seeing it finished.

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  4. I don't mind tracing but I can't imagine having the patience to do all the taping! But it's a beautiful pattern so should be worth the effort.

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  5. Admiring you for the taping. It's a wonderful dress and I'm looking forward to see your progress.
    It's a pattern I would like to make myself too, but would have to grade down the upper part, which might be a bit too difficult.

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  6. This color will be gorgeous on you!

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  7. Love the fabric color and yes, perfect for fall.

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  8. I cannot wait to see this dress completed! I may even print this one out myself once I see your finished product. The color of your fabric is divine!!!

    I love your comments on fit. I have found that I prefer a loose fit these days myself. I think the preference for a looser fit is coming with age. I find it to be much more flattering on anyone.

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  9. Can't wait to see how it turns out!

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  10. As much as I love Burda, and you know I love Burda, I can't imagine taping 37 pieces of paper together! Just the thought makes me glad I kept my subscription in spite of several issues of patterns I will never use.

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  11. Your dress is going to be beautiful. I love the pretty berry fabric you have chosen. I'm a size 44 on the bottom half but a size 42 on the top. I wonder how hard it would be to grade down the top half of the pattern.

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  12. That berry ponte is INCREDIBLE. I can't wait to see this finished, it's going to look sooo good on you!!

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  13. I like your comments on fit because I have some of the same issues. My bustline is competing with my abdomen too, and it needs all the help it can get:) I love the color of your fabric and look forward to seeing your dress.

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  14. Oooo! I can't wait to see that dress in that color.... I bet it will be stunning! I feel your pain with the printing and taping process... but it's going to be so worth it!

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  15. The color is really nice for Fall. I agree about the fit issues. I've made the mistake a few times of fitting like the model pictures & ended up with a not-so-comfortable garment. Looking forward to seeing the finished dress!

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  16. Oooh - Beautiful color and I think the pattern has so much potential. That said, I do not tape. I would rather go blind tracing or wait days for a paper pattern to arrive by mail. I just can't cope with the taping. To each her own! ;-)

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  17. Printing and assembling is as much trouble as tracing them once you find the pieces among the labyrinth of the pull-out section of the magazine. Having said that, this one of the only things I liked from the AUgust Burda, so I am eager to see how it sews up...

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  18. This was available in smaller sizes maybe last year? It might be on the website. I have this issue and I agree I'd rather trace than tape! I look forward to seeing this on your. It's on my to sew list as well.

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  19. I've come to the conclusion that is it is much better to buy the patterns online then to try and trace them from the magazine....you'll go blind looking at those things. Beautiful color and I can't wait to see it completed.

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  20. Please tell me if your beautiful fabric is ponte or pontederoma.

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  21. 37 pages to print and tape is a lot and that is one of the things that makes you The Sewing Fanatic. Your clothes to fit great. I agree with the comment about professional fitting.

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  22. Will you be posting pictures when you start adjusting the dress pattern to your sloper pattern? I've never seen this process and will begin this process later this month. I would love to see pictures of this process. :) I love the color you have selected. I look forward to the progress on this pattern!

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  23. Whenever I use a print out pattern, I tape the pages together pattern piece by pattern piece. I just finished cutting out a double breasted coat from Burda (50+) pages and I taped together all the pages that had a skirt piece then cut that out, then taped until I had another piece and cut that out and so on. Much more manageable.

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  24. Wow, that bust piece is really interesting-- the pleats are so unusual! I'm really excited to see this come together!

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  25. Love the berry color. You are tenacious with that taping. Kudos!

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  26. I'm as guilty of over-fitting as the next girl, so your thoughts on this are enlightening. I love the colour of the ponte. Gorgeous.

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  27. Oh, i love this pattern. It's so ladylike and has such nice design lines. I'm so excited to see your version.

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