Monday, November 17, 2014

McCalls 6844 - A Ponte Cardigan

I wanted to do something different this weekend and I've been wanting to try this pattern out for awhile...


I decided to make it up in some of the black ponte that arrived from Fabric Mart a couple of weeks ago.  Of course, I couldn't leave well enough alone and added a liquidy leather type fabric from the collection for the shawl collar and as part of the sleeves.

Here it is pictured on Lulu...



This is a simple sew...seriously simple.  The challenge is in getting the fit right, especially since in some of the 92 reviews of this cardigan on Patternreview, they state that the pattern runs big.

Pattern Construction ~

  • I cut version A in a size XXL which fit me through the body without any alterations. 
  • The sleeve bicep measurement is exactly what my bicep measurement is, so I decided to sew it as the pattern states instead of making alterations to the pattern first. 
  • The finished sleeve is snug, but not uncomfortable, so I will make a very slight alteration for the next version.
  • I did alter the shoulder seam to shorten it. However, I will shave another smidgen off for future versions.
  • The shawl collar was pressed flat. The pattern has it roll loosely but I wanted a more set collar.
  • I also tacked the collar down at the shoulder seam, at the hemline, and in the bust area so that the collar would stay flat all the time.

Of course there will be more versions, especially since I really want to make this in both views B and D. 

Design Details ~

  • I sewed the pattern just as the pattern instructions stated okay almost as they instructed because I made a few design changes.  
  • I used a liquidy pleather like fabric from "The Collection" for the top of the shawl collar.
  • The liquidy pleather was also used as part of the sleeve hems to carry it through the cardigan.
  • Finally I added four lines of straight stitching to the hem area of the sleeve just 'cause I thought it was cute.


A few more thoughts ~
I hate set in sleeves in knit garments.  I won't do that again. I think you get a better look when you insert the sleeves flat but I did want to sew the pattern at least once the way the instructions were written.

I love the curved hem on the back and how it's just a little longer than the front. This will work great over separates ~ a top and skirt or top and pants combo and of course it will work over quite a few of my dresses.

Other than that, it was an easy sew. I've already dreamed up my next project using this pattern which will show up here sooner or later!

Here are more pics of the cardigan on Lulu...


Jacket worn with a version of the Sewing Workshop Mission Top

Sewing Workshop Mission Top with a bow tie blogged here



Back of the cardigan

The pinstripe and mesh dress still need to be completed. I was in the mood for simple.  So I sewed simple because there is always next weekend.

...as always more later!


31 comments:

  1. Oh Carolyn. You sew the best Stuff. I'm looking forward to seeing more versions of this. Love the liquid accents. g

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  2. Fab cardi Carolyn. Love the "leather" touches. Very cool.

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  3. Hi there, Carolyn, nice fabric combo. I happen to be working on a cardigan with shawl collar too! I've just decided that one can never have too many cardigans. And now, I think I need one in black with pleather trim... thanks to you. :)

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  4. What a nice addition to your wardrobe! Love it !!!

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  5. Such a nice cardigan, I love the pleather-details! And thankyou for bringing this pattern to my mind, I have just ordered it :-)
    Katharina

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  6. I had to laugh at the idea of following the directions at least once. No set in sleeves in knit for me; just not that patient, machine not that well tensioned.

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    1. Well you know that I'm seriously going my own way now! *LOL*

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  7. Very nice! The two fabrics play very nice together.

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  8. Awesome cardigan. Love the pleather details. You've inspired me to pull out my blue ponte and make one.

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  9. Hi, Carolyn. Beautiful fabric combination! Love the pleather accent. I had to chuckle when you wrote that you were in the mood for simple. That was my mindset yesterday when I made the MacPhee Workshop Awesome Knit Jacket Pattern out of Ponte from Fabric Mart. It was so incredibly easy. Sometimes a girl just needs to cleanse her palate. LOL

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  10. Oh my goodness! I think this is my fav ever on here. I really LOVE this one. I feel a trip to a pattern sale coming on despite the pattern diet.

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  11. I love this-separates are my "go to" patterns. Your additions of pleather and stitching give this a more tailored look. Really cute!

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  12. I really love your spin on this with the pleather band! I never would have thought of that, but it looks really rich. I just made this pattern for the first time a couple of weeks ago, but mine didn't turn out nearly as nice as this!

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    1. Ann - I find that hard to believe since you make such nice garments!

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  13. You are brilliant! Always the right elegant details.

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  14. I am delighted to hear how this worked out for you, and love that liquidy pleather! I have been considering sewing this one in view B as well! Did you serge most of it or use your regular machine? Specifically did you serge that collar in? I haven't tried a leather knit combo on my serger yet, and am wondering what kind of results it would yield.

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    1. Alicia - it's more of a soft pleather than a normal one but I serge regular pleather too. But to answer your question about serging vs. normal machine use, I stitched the side seams on my sewing machine to check fit. Then when I realized it was okay, I serge finished the seams. The hem was serged after the garment was sewn together and then I machine stitched it. So a combo of sewing machine and serger usage.

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  15. I just finished this same jacket in ponte from FabricMart (only mine is a bright orchid, far less usable, in reality!). I also wondered about the set in sleeves, and like you, like to try everything the first time according to patterns. But I have seen Nancy Zieman's recommendation to sew the sleeve in flat, then sew up the entire side & sleeve seam at once. Glad to hear you're going to do that next time. I think I'll stick with the non-peplum version, though; not sure that view + my rear is a good combo.

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    1. I meant to ask about how you shortened the shoulder. I need to do this in my next version. But if you shorten the shoulder, don't you have to make some alteration on the sleeve? Thinking about alterations like this end up paralyzing me.

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    2. I do a slice and overlap method to shorten the shoulder but I will find it from one of my books and post it on the blog so that you can see it. I actually want to try the peplum version and see if it looks bad. I have loads of ponte fabric so it's not like I would lose anything by trying. *LOL*

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  16. Carolyn, you may want to see this video a a Peggy Sagers sew along making Max's Jacket (I have this pattern). http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_01_27_2014.htm At 22:40 she shows how to insert a sleeve that is amazing if one cannot sew the sleeve using her flat method. http://www.silhouettepatterns.com/html/media/livestreamchannel/replay_03_14_2011.htm at 41:00 I do all my sleeves this way now.

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  17. I like your version of this cardigan. The pleather adds a nice touch.

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  18. So funny! I put this one on the cutting table last night! View C for me, and a wool sweater knit from Gorgeous Fabrics. Need to learn sewing in the sleeves flat... looking for recommendations, and I see you have a few replies with them!

    Love the pleather option - slightly edgier.

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  19. Love this! Well....another idea I will have steal from you! :) Just remember if you ever visit Boston, I will need a heads up so we won't be wearing the same thing should we bump in to each other. :) ~Valerie

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  20. I thought I was the only person left who has not made this garment. Your review is great Carolyn. I like the liquidy pleather collar and cuffs!!

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  21. Great cardigan Caroline. That pattern is the bomb.

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  22. I love the collar and cuffs! What a fun touch - I love how you make every garment yours. I've had this on my radar for a while, too, although who knows when I'll get to it...

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  23. This is such a great make. I'm sure you're going to get so much use out of it. I need to get on this cardie bandwagon. I've got one that I'm slowly wearing to death (although, it's not exactly cardigan weather here in Australia atm) :)

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  24. I have this pattern too and have yet to make it. Your version is just beautiful with the touches of pleather.

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