Saturday, January 16, 2016

Vogue 8090 in Denim

After finishing up the denim V1247 skirt, I decided that I'd use the rest of the denim for this topper. However, since everything has changed and I no longer have tried 'n true patterns to use as "slopers" for new patterns, I'm starting from scratch with each new pattern I sew.

Therefore, I research each new pattern before I use it. I must note here that this pattern is out-of-print (OOP) but still probably in a lot of your stashes. My first stop on the research train is PatternReview. I love the pattern review database and want to thank everyone who contributes to it. 

There are only 7 reviews of this pattern with most of them being made in 2011 when the pattern was released. Although someone did make one during the summer of 2015. While I'm thankful for those reviews there wasn't enough information and inspiration there, so my next stop was Google.

Why do I google patterns? One because I can see images of finished garments and reviews of them that aren't always on PatternReview. And in my googling I found reviews by Mrs. Mole and I thought thank God, real helpful information by a sewing pro. She made this topper for a client and provides some insight into fit that I used to make my own version.

So first a picture of the finished topper ~

One of the last outdoors photos for the season because it's chilly and the 
sun sets way too early. This picture was taken at 3pm.

The Supplies ~
Medium weight denim from Fabric Mart (the same used in the V1247 skirt)
4 - 1" gold buttons from the collection 
(honestly I've had these so long I don't even know where they came from!)

Pattern Alterations and Construction Details ~
I made no alterations to the pattern because when I double checked the finished measurements, I fit solidly into a size 22. But just to make sure, I tissue fit the topper and the only thing I thought was maybe I would need to sew the side seams a little deeper and this proved to be true.

Other than that my major change was to topstitch the seams in the same color thread. I went back and forth over that because my original thought was to topstitch in a gold thread but in the end decided it was too much. I want this to be able to be thrown over everything so it needs to be as neutral as possible. Also because I used a medium weight denim, I omitted the interfacing the pattern suggests you use. If it was a thinner, flimsier fabric, I would definitely have interfaced the facing pieces but my fabric was firm and didn't need it.

This is an easy sew like the pattern envelope says. I had two challenges with this sew - one, getting the sleeves inserted. I had to fiddle with them and I'm not sure it was the way I inserted them or if the fabric used was too bulky. There was a lot of steam, some careful clipping and a lot of clapper action to get them to lay flat and work. But they do work!  

My second challenge was the facings. Gawd, I just couldn't get those irregular shapes to go together well. I took them apart 3x before I finally got them in correctly. I also added a few slip stitches between the facing buttonhole and the jacket buttonhole so that they wouldn't slip or work against each other when using the jacket.

Finally a caution, I think that this pattern works for me because I'm fluffy. I think a slimmer person might be challenged by the extra fabric/ease in this pattern. Like Mrs. Mole said, you should definitely make a muslin to make sure that you get the best fit. However, for me it provides a stylish cover up for the extra fluff.

Okay a few more pictures ~

I added a gold button to the back and on each sleeve hem
because I liked how it looked.

Up next is a top from The Carolyn Pajamas by Closet Case Files. When Heather first issued this pattern, I never saw pajamas. I always saw a cool top and I'm making my version from velvet. always more later!


  1. Very nice, it really suits you. May I add, while I'm here, how fab you are looking in your photos (I've been an avid reader of your blog for ages and you are an inspiration).

  2. The pattern sleeve picture made me think 'oh dear!' But I stand corrected, the finished garment looks so nice, better than the advertised garment. Wish I had the vision to make blah patterns come to life!

  3. Lovely jacket. Looks great on you.

  4. I love this denim topper ! The gold buttons add such a nice touch

  5. Like everyone else, I love this in denim as well!

  6. Great jacket in denim! My client used thinner cotton and it was more drapey. Please forgive me for sharing a link to the pattern corrections I did before the final sewing, it may help others: The biggest issue was the front top sections that needed a lot added to allow the horizontal seam to hang parallel with the floor. The gold buttons are a nice touch too! Now you have a great grab-and-go jacket perfect for any occasion!

    1. You can add a link anytime you want! Actually I will change my blog post to include it...thanks for including it in the post!

  7. I like your added button detail

  8. My V8090 came out in 2005 and I made it immediately in an off white linen blend and loved it. I received so many compliments on it that I actually wrote "lots of compliments" on the envelope. I still have it in my closet all these years later but alas it is now too small. I'm hanging on to it hoping it will fit again someday (I need to take lessons from you on how to get smaller!) All of this to say that I love yours in denim and think I need to have a little revisit with this pattern. Denim fits my lifestyle so much more these days now that I am retired. Thanks for your inspiration, your the best! Oh, I remember that I had a problem with sleeve application as well, just don't remember what it was. I'm not organized enough to make notes most of the time. Sure would be helpful if I did!

  9. Looking good. Love the cute detail at the back and the gold buttons.

  10. Great denim topper. I think I have this pattern in my stash.

  11. Love this topper. It's great in the denim you chose and the gold buttons add that extra touch.

  12. Love the new tennants in the Collection! And you're looking svelte and chic in your new top. I've been looking at patterns and reading reviews on PR today. Didn't occur to me to Google a pattern, what a great idea m'dear.
    Ok, don't fall off your chair, but I'm all set to SWAP this year.
    Between Janice Riggs at the Vivienne Files - her Starting From Scratch program which fits my needs to a Tee, and the SWAP started this month where the rules are tailor made for Ms Riggs program - and I had my colors done ... bad news there .... I'm letting go of a good 1/3 of the garment fabrics I had left. I truly am starting over.
    I'm coming here for inspiration.
    I'm doing weight watchers too - have lost 10 pounds since Dec 15. If I can keep up 8-10/month I'll be halfway to goal weight by the time I turn 60.
    Mood has a faux leather in Coral that I'm dying over right now. Think I'd pair it with the Coral Viscose Ponte they have. I've been looking at that Ralph Rucci jacket V1437, faux leather on the outer band as trim and maybe up the CB section. What do you think?

  13. The buttons are a killer touch! You are so stylish.

  14. Trying to send you a picture of a mesh and leather jacket. The email you mentioned did not work. Please re-send the email address and I'll send the PIc.

  15. Very chic! I love the goId buttons too:)

  16. This is a great pattern Unfortunately it is not one that is in my stash so I will do an search on ebay and others. You are a great inspiration thanks so much

  17. I love this jacket. I am going to be looking out fir this buy.

  18. Gorgeous jacket! I also just wanted to leave a quick thank you-- I just spent some time exploring the Marcy Tilton site and fabrics as a result of your last post. OMG! I have a wish list a mile long now! Such a great resource-- thanks so much for sharing! :)

  19. I used to read your blog as often as you posted then for some reason didn't see it any longer. Today your post is in the app, so excited to see you again. You were such an inspiration for me before and now again!

    You look awesome, not that you didn't before though but you're awesomore now! So happy to refind your blog!


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