Sunday, April 03, 2011

Butterick 5598 - Construction Pt. 1

This dress is definitely a different look for me and when I put on the dress shell to check for fit, my daughter called it my Maid's Uniform...which definitely wasn't encouraging...*sigh*  However, I was right the only real alteration needed was to change where the waistline fell...but...

...believe me when I tell you that this is not a pattern for a beginner or an advanced beginner.  Inserting the side fronts and backs with the pleats is challenging.  I almost chucked the dress twice this afternoon because of those pleats...and I was following the darn pattern instructions... 

See the pattern has you mark the pleats, make the pleats finally clipping to the mark and then stitching the side front or back in.  Well I clipped just like the instructions said and ended up with a hole.  A hole that I had to figure out a way to hide and no matter what I did in the beginning, there was this small hole from the clipped fabric on my dress front piece...yeah NOT happy!  I finally figured out a way to stitch it close and then reinforce the small seam so that it wouldn't pull loose but can I say again...NOT happy!

So for the second one, not only did I NOT clip the darn thing but I hand basted the piece in to insure that I got it in properly and then machine stitched it flat.  This was the procedure I did for the back piece too but I circled around that back piece quite a few times before I finally sat down at the sewing machine to sew it.

I basted the sides together added the cap sleeves...minus lining...and tried it on for fit purposes.  Thats when I got the maid comment...*sigh*

I'm having an issue with the pleats pulling in the I'm going to take some out of both side seams before I resort to going in and taking the back sides out..."Please God don't make me have to take those back side panels out"...said in a soft prayerful voice! 

Anyway, this dress is far from finished.  I still have to make a lining...and I've pretty much decided that I'm going to cut the lining pieces from the finished dress pieces...again the thought of making those side pieces in the lining is enough to make me just put the dress away...and I'm not going there...not yet!  Because I can "see" the finished dress in my head...and I think it will be pretty...a silhouette that's different from one I normally wear...but not one that I haven't worn before...

Okay this is where I'm leaving the dress shell... I said before I have alot of work left to finish this and I won't get to work on it again until a week and half from now since I'm going away next weekend... always, more later...


  1. Seeing what you can do, I know that this dress will be beautiful on you. The blue one looks awesome.

  2. Good progress, tricky panels and all! I can see that shape working in a variety of fabrics -- envisioning a strong b&w graphic in my head.

    Thanks so much for sharing your sewing adventures in your blog. Seeing your fabulous creations for a plus size body have really inspired me to stop waiting around for my shape to change before I make my own clothing. Tonight, I finished (aside from hemming) a simple's the first garment other than PJ pants that I've made for myself in years, and I'm looking forward to doing more.

  3. Wow! I've read several blog post today of sewing nightmares; Mine included. It must be something in the air!? I had to set my Spring Jacket aside too. Either that or trash it. Hang in there! You can do it.

  4. I really like that colour on you, it's a lovely departure from your ususal palette. What does the dress look like without the belt - would that release some of the pulling of the pleats?
    I'm sure you'll get the better of those pesky side panels and produce something wonderful as always. Good Luck!

  5. Hang in there, I think this dress has potential and it's good to try new silhouettes You have an hour glass figure so I think this really suits you. Also from my own experience daughters are the toughest critics around.

  6. Thanks for keeping us updated. I know you will find a way to "make it work." Hang in there.

  7. It is always difficult to try on a work in progress, especially one that is presenting difficulties as this one is doing, without feeling overwhelmed by the problems. Keep true to your vision of the dress; there seems to be so much promise in your vision.

  8. Carolyn, I think it's a nice style for you and a deviation from your usual choice. Knowing your talent / expertise / persistence, you will have another great garment soon.

  9. Oh my - I do hope the daughter's comment didn't deflate you too horribly. I can see what you are seeing and the dress will be fabulous. Thanks for the info on the trickiness. g

  10. I am very confident you "will" make this pattern work for you :)))

  11. The style is wonderful. (Are daughters allowed opinions?) What if you made the tuck itself smaller? would that help the back to fall straight? Or ... stitching down the tuck further, to make it "open" further down??? Do hope that you make this work.

  12. I've been looking at this pattern, and I think I will have to make one for this summer! It is great to hear your thoughts on the pattern- especially the difficulties so I'll know ahead of time what to expect!


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