Sunday, November 11, 2012

Butterick 5760 - a little of this & a little of that...

Sooooo, I sewed yesterday.  Or maybe I should say I did a lot of pressing then!  *LOL* I got to the sewing cave and I started working on the sweater jacket...and ended up going in a totally different direction.  First I decided that I needed pockets on the jacket front.  What?  I nevah want pockets...but in this instance I clearly saw pockets on the sweater jacket front.

But how to get them there?  And how to make them stand out on the jacket front without them fading into the fabric?  Should I use buttons?  Or a trim?  I was stumbling around a little because I had no clear plan since this was an off the cuff sew.  

To solve the pocket issue, I used the pocket pattern piece that was included with the jacket that's part of the pattern's wardrobe pieces.  This was a big pattern piece that I cut down to fit not only the front of my sweater jacket but also to allow me to jam my hands into them. 

Once the pocket pattern piece challenge was resolved, my next issue became how to make the pocket stand out.  That's when I thought of the new faux leather I just received.  I bought quite a bit of this fabric ~ to use for a piece in a dress, to make a skirt and for some embellishments.  I'm now thinking I might need to get more since there are so many pieces of leather and faux leather in the designer collections for Fall 2012.  

Anyway, I decided to use the faux leather to finish off the edge of the pocket, the hemline and the neckline.  I went back and forth over whether or not to put some on the sleeve hems and finally decided to stick with my "Rule of Three."  

Pocket being applied to sweater jacket front

Faux leather applied to the neckline

Some stats:
Fabric ~
Double sided cabled wool blend sweater fabric

Notions ~
6 - 7/8" Gold Buttons from the collection
2" strips of faux leather cut from the new yardage

Machine Settings ~
* A teflon foot was used to sew the faux leather to the jacket & pockets
* A size 14 stretch needle was used per Sandra Betzina's book, Fabric Savvy.
* Stitch length was set at 3.2, though Sandra Betzina suggests a 2.5 stitch length.

Some other construction information...
Because the fabric was so thick, all of the seams were stitched first on the sewing machine and then serge finished.  This caused the seams to be a little wavy.  To correct this, I pressed them flat using a lot of steam, a silk organza pressing cloth and my clapper, then stitched them flat.  This was done to all the seams, center back, side seams and front bands.  I need to state that this was a time consuming process.  I left the clapper on for a good 2-3 minutes for each portion of the seam to insure that the seams were flat.

While working on the front piece, I must have pulled the right side because the hemline was uneven at the front - AFTER I put the leather strip on.  I debated whether I could pass this off as a design feature, then broke down and removed a portion of the hemline so that both sides would match at the center front.  This meant also removing the faux leather and reapplying it...sewing in the original stitching so that the holes wouldn't show on the finished hemline. Even then, I had to add some stitch witchery to the back of the seam to hold it together because I just couldn't add anymore stitching.

For the buttons I went with the larger gold ones and actual buttonholes.  I know originally I said that I was going to use snaps but that's when I was making a quick and easy sweater jacket.  Once I'd fallen into complicated and complex, it just seemed natural to torture myself by adding buttonholes to the VERY thick front bands.  But the buttonholes went on easily...much easier than I'd anticipated. 

A machine stitched hem was added to the sleeve hems...then the buttons were stitched onto the sweater jacket front bands and my no longer quick and easy sweater was done.

A few more pics on Lulu.  The fashion photo shoot will happen next weekend when my photographer is available.

Sweater jacket open on Lulu

Sweater jacket partially buttoned

Side view with sleeve in pocket

Back view of sweater jacket

Sweater jacket w/Vogue 1250 top

Sweater jacket, V1250 top, TNT pants
all pieces from the CIW Collection

Another piece completed for The City in Winter Collection and I love that it's hefty and warm which I think I'm going to need this winter! always more later!


  1. I love this jacket. The leather trim really adds a nice twist to it.

  2. Nice jacket. Love the faux leather trim.

  3. Love your description of the thought process you went through. Although it was a lot more work, those little details just make it stand out. Love your wardrobe!

  4. Wow - this is great! I love the faux leather. Looks real. And I think it's hilarous the way you put the sleeves into the pockets like there's a real person wearing it :-)

  5. Love it. If it doesn't fit to you liking you can always send it to me.

  6. Great trim. Glad you're sewing again after the terrible hurricane.

  7. Ooooo, I LOVE it!!! The faux leather details are fabulous, and really bring the piece up from just a cardi to a very chic, casual jacket. Can't wait to see it modeled!

  8. I love this. the faux leather trim really pushes it up a notch or two (or more) from ordinary to special!

  9. very creative process when you just go with the flow like this. Nice touches to the cardie to make it special.

  10. I love the look of the trim and the pockets! Looks warm and comfy as well

  11. I was hoping you'd use that leather this season and luv what you have done with it

  12. beautiful cardigan Carolyn - the faux leather looks luxurious, as do the gold buttons. I bet this is a really versatile piece, too.
    I am impressed how fast you re-assembled your sewing cave AND finished something. that's gotta feel good.

  13. Love it. The leather looks so stylish on the cardigan.

  14. Great jacket and love the pocket and leather details.

  15. Just wonderful. I am always amazed at what you accomplish in seemingly little time.

  16. You certainly worked that trim quiz out and I like the results. Nice cardigan.

  17. This cardigan is a awesome designer piece. It was worth your complicated additions! Way to go, Carolyn!! It also goes well with the other pieces in the collection.

  18. Very nice! I really like what you did.

  19. Wow! How inspiring!! You have helped me catch the sewing bug again and pieces like this are "to die for"!!

  20. This is another great piece of work. The torture and further torture of reworking parts of were worth it.
    The leather trim is my favourite aspect of this jacket.

  21. It is so serendipitous that you pulled this fabric out - it looks like such a useful and lovely cardy that will match your current sewing plans.

  22. Gorgeous jacket. The extra time taken has really paid off. The length appears to be a little longer than your usual jackets/cardigans - I look forward to seeing it being personally modeled!

  23. I love the little faux leather details. I might have to steal that for a dress I hope to make this winter... if I can find the time!

  24. Love it, the leather edging takes it up a notch and love the way you share your challenges with us.

  25. Wow!! That faux leather trims took the coat to designer level! Love it!

    You got a great eye for details!

  26. The trim makes it, very classy. Really wonderful as is the dress.

  27. This is just so HOT! And so ready to wear lookin! Very nice...makin me want one.

  28. Love the leather detailing! I *may* have to use that on something soon!

  29. Love you new cardigan. The faux leather adds interests to a classic design. It good to see you sewing again.

  30. Ooh, the pockets and the leather(ish) trim really make this special! Way to go!


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