Black Ponte Jacket with Lace Trim

This jacket is made using McCalls 7481 as the base and it's Chico inspired.  

I found the inspiration jacket on Chico's website and it started this sewing journey.

Chicos Ponte & Lace Jacket

All of the pattern alterations were completed that's why I started with it. I have two successful versions of the jacket in my closet another reason to use it.

Supply List ~
- 2.5 yards of black ponte fabric from Fabric Mart
- 1.5" lace from Joyce Trimmings
- 3" lace from M&J Trimmings
- black 'n white bias binding from the collection via Fabric Mart
- Five 7/8" black buttons from Pacific Trimmings
- One 1 1/8" black button from WalMart

Construction ~
I made no alterations to this pattern besides choosing the length and omitting the lining.  The Chicos inspiration jacket has a mandarin collar. I decided to use the collar from the pattern. Then I made it a journey because I added lace to the collar. Being extra again...

Side seam pockets were added but they hung funny. I thought of a couple of ideas to make the pockets work but ultimately decided that I didn't need them.  So I unpicked all of that black thread on black ponte fabric. As I was doing it, I realized that I've really grown because there was a time when I would have just chucked the outfit. But my unpicking heros, Grace and Lara have convinced me that ripping is worth it. Sometimes you've just got to do it to make your design idea work.

My silk organza pressing cloth got a work out on this project. I normally don't use one on ponte fabric but since I was doing some heavy duty pressing, I didn't want to put a shine on the fabric.  It was a good decision!

The highlight of this jacket is the lace on the collar, the sleeve and jacket hemlines.

The bias binding finishing on the inside just makes my heart sing. I only had enough in the notions stash to trim out the facings and the hemline.  So the side seams are just serged. BTW, while this bias tape came on a roll, it had to be pressed into shape to be used. It's some of the leftover binding tapes I bought from Fabric Mart over a decade ago.

A Hong Kong finish was used because I love how cleanly it finishes the seams. To me its worth the extra time and effort this finishing takes. There are loads of tutorials on how to sew Hong Kong binding in a garment, just Google it. I would hate to recommend one since there are various sewists showing how the technique is done and probably one of them is a fave of yours.

A few pictures ~

Wearing it with my TNT sleeveless white 

shirt made earlier this year!

This picture illustrates why I should stand up straight!

Wearability Factor ~
I wore this to work and out to lunch with a sewing friend this week. I dressed it down with sneakers and a ponytail and even then someone at work mentioned how dressed up I looked! LOL! I'm just not winning that one. However, since I made the jacket from ponte, it was very comfortable to wear. My other two makes include an outerwear jacket and a special events jacket. 

Conclusion ~
This is my third version of this jacket and I still haven't made it the way it appears on the pattern envelope! I think that's why I like the pattern so much ~  because of it's possibilities. I did check on the website and this pattern is now out of print. Which is sad because it's a great pattern to take creative journeys.  The pattern is still on the website if you want one. I'd like to use this pattern to make a few more everyday jackets, so expect to see it again.

The other thing I really liked about constructing this jacket was the details. All those extra special things really made the sewing fun. This is the type of sewing that makes me happiest. I can sew a quick project but it's not what makes my creative being sing. Give me a sewing challenge, throw in as many elements as possible to end up with a cohesive and unique garment and I'm happy. I was very happy making this jacket! *LOL*

This was the last garment I made during my Thanksgiving Break and my favorite make of the bunch. It was also the most intensive. I honestly didn't think I would get it finished in time to be photographed during the last session with my daughter. I'm glad I did. 

There is one more garment left from the photos, the Rivermont Top. It will be up next. The last of the "Border Print Series" shirts will be on the blog after that. 

...as always more later!