Tuesday, January 08, 2013

Purple Pleasant Jacket & Dress ~ Part 3

Before we get into any more construction details...look what I found when I was cleaning off my camera...



Maybe this is why I can't find the Lord & Taylor ad.  I took a picture of it and probably threw it out afterwards knowing that I had photographic evidence. Seriously though, doesn't that jacket just make you think of V8815?!

First a disclaimer ~
I'm sure that those of you proficient at pattern drafting gave me the side eye on some of my pattern "alterations."  I'm also sure that there is some dart rotation thingy that I should have done to the front bodice piece instead of my makeshift pattern alterations.  Now if Craftsy could offer a class on pattern alterations, I might sign up for it but for right now, I'm going with what works for me.  

So here is the disclaimer...just because I did this and it worked, doesn't mean that this is the proper way to achieve these results.  I would hate to lead you, the reader, down the wrong path.  I kinda sew intuitively and I knew that the changes I made would work but for the right way, I would suggest that you check out a good patternmaking book like "Patternmaking for Fashion Design" by Helen Joseph-Armstrong.

Okay some more construction details...

The Lining ~
  • I used an aubergine lining from my collection for this jacket.  
  • All of the pieces were cut out and then serge finished.
  • I sewed the lining pieces for the bodice together and then applied them to the  front facing.
  • The peplum lining pieces were stitched at the hemline and then the side seams sewn together
  • The peplum was sewn to the bodice at the waistline.  
  • The lining was folded down 5/8" and then handstitched to cover the bodice/peplum seamline.


The Sleeves ~
The sleeves were inserted into the jacket.  I left them unlined. I went back and forth over whether they should be lined. But I left them unlined because I made changes to the sleeves while I was sewing them to get them to work and I have no way of recreating those changes. Also, I was scared that if I took them apart I wouldn't get them to work in the jacket again. I will also admit that I want to wear the jacket more than I want to figure out how I did it. *sigh*  That's sad isn't it?! But the truth will set you free! *LOL*

So I get the first sleeve in and I have a few puckers.  The kind that you can usually press out.  I use to press my sleeve caps on my ham but a couple of months ago, I bought this shoulder stand after seeing it on Ann's blog



OMG, this is a lifesaver!  It pressed my sleeve in perfectly...so very, very glad that I added it to my pressing tools.

Finishing the neckline ~
Of course in my make the lining work insertion, I probably should have sewn the lining down at the neckline and the front neck facing and flipped it into the jacket. But I didn't do that. Didn't even think of it until after I'd sewn the binding onto the neckline and turned it down. Probably if I'd taken more time to really think it out, I would have come to that conclusion but I put finishing the neckline off until I'd worked out all the other challenges. It's not the most "professional" finish but it works.  

Here's what I did...
  • I cut a 2" bias strip from my scraps.  
  • I seamed it and matched the seam at the center back of the jacket.  
  • Stitched the binding to the jacket using a 5/8" seam allowance.
  • Trimmed the seam in half.
  • Pressed the binding over the trim seam and folded it in half.
  • Pressed it flat again.
  • Then handstitched it into the jacket.


Lastly here are the buttons that I chose to go on the jacket.  Originally I was going to use gold buttons...even had them picked out.  However, the other day when I was in WalMart browsing the fabric dept that has reappeared in all of my local WalMarts, I found these buttons...



I actually liked them on the jacket front so I'm going to use them.  Now you will notice that the inspiration jacket has no buttons just a belt.  I do have a black skinny belt that I'm going to wear with the jacket but I need buttons or some sort of closure to hold the jacket together underneath my winter coat.  So 4 of these will go on the bodice front of the jacket - not the peplum - it will hang free.

I leave you with the jacket on Lulu which I'm amazed to realize is a little tighter on her than me!  Wow!  




The dress is up next and because I banged it out Sunday morning, I'll leave you with a sneak peek...




...as always more later!







27 comments:

  1. That jacket is seriously looking good. Although Lulu is such a gem I can't wait to see it on you. The dress? Well, just to die for! Why oh why do we have to wait for the photographer? To give us something to look forward to.....that's why!

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  2. Dear Carolyn,
    now I know how the lans lies.
    Your wonderful jacket looks like something that is on my sewingtable. Skirt and top are already done, the pieces for the jacket are cut out but not sewed. I used the same pattern and learned from Mrs. Deckert Craftsy and now, especially as for the lining, from you.
    I like your jacket.
    Mema
    I apologize for my bad English

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  3. Your jacket looks great, Carolyn! I have never seen a shoulder stand before, but I love pressing tools and I think I need that one!!

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  4. The jacket is looking good but Wow! loving that dress!

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  5. This has turned out brilliantly - the jacket is just perfect, and the dress, well, WOW!
    That shoulder press is most intriguing - haven't come across one before, but now must have one...

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  6. Your dress is so pretty! Can't wait to see you wearing your jacket!

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  7. The jacket is looking very good, I just ordered 8815 for myself. Great dress and I just ordered the shoulder stand. That looks perfect and just what I need in my sewing room.

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  8. Beautiful dress and jacket, Carolyn! If only I had your sewing intuition :) Great post.

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  9. That double knit fabric made up into a pretty dress!!! Great job with the jacket.

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  10. Seriously LOVE the dress-can't wait to see it with the jacket. I want a similar flowered dress this spring-never ever wanted one before now -fantastic!

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  11. Fabulous pieces - I love the dress fabric in particular!

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  12. Great stuff! Don't apologize for the way you get your patterns to work...the results of that leather stripped dress speak in your favor!

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  13. You look lovely in that dress.

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  14. You did it once again - yea the jacket is stunning but that dress - oh my! Do you have enough purple left for a pencil skirt? g

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  15. There is no pattern police to come in and arrest you for doing alterations differently. If the way you do alterations are successful, that it is the right way to do it. What works for one body, won't work for all bodies. I'm looking forward to seeing the fashion shoot of this lovely garment.

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  16. Your garments are lovely. Looking at the Lord and Taylor picture, it looks like the model is a different girl from the waist down. I find it to look very odd. I'm glad you were inspired to make something beautiful for yourself.

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  17. Would love to have a gorgeous floral lavendar dress like that on a Sunday morning! The shoulder stand, great idea. Glad it works for you. Indeed my one set-in shoulder in a woven was such a horror that I have not revisited those patterns since the eighties!!! Thanks. If I make a jacket and get stuck I will remember this post and make a shoulder stand.

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  18. Oh MY! That dress is beautiful and wonderful on you. It goes so well with your jacket. Lovely work, Carolyn. And I must get that shoulder press. Thanks.

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  19. love the jacket and the dress. I had jacket I loved back in 80's similar, no I didn't make it, but I was sad when I out grew it. You inspired me yet again. I think I need those patterns....what were they again? Also, do you give sewing lessons? Wish I lived near you so you could teach me....You have such talent.

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  20. I am also an intuitive seamstress. Then I find out later that I actually did something that had an official technique name! We just fly by the seat if our pants, Carolyn!
    Jacket is looking good.
    I like the idea of someone a shoulder stand.

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  21. Jacket and dress are amazing. You also accessorize perfectly. Waiting to see the jacket with the dress. Wish I had your vision.

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  22. I love both these pieces and can't wait to see more, glad that you have had such a successful sewcation!

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  23. Great looking jacket. You are so keen on replicating your inspiration garments. Congratulations on your accomplished sewcation.

    PS - The dress is cute too. ;-)

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  24. Looks awesome! I'm so jealous of those who have the talent to be intuitive. I got Patternmaking for Fashion Design for Christmas and intend to go through it page by page by page!

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  25. You look stunning in this dress. The colours and the fit are fab, and the jacket is very cute.

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  26. Nice jacket, and I love the dress on you! Feeling very envious of the shoulder stand now too.

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