The pattern envelope's description of the pattern is ~ loose fitting, unlined jacket, below waist or below hip has collar, pockets with flaps and short sleeves with turnback cuffs or long, two-piece effect sleeves with button cuffs.
I chose to make this jacket because one of the top trends for Fall 2012 was military. I thought this jacket emphasized this look. Plus I've wanted to use this pattern for the last six years, so it's about time it took it's turn in the spotlight. Now even though this jacket has no lining, I will line it...more about that later. I want to describe the pattern alterations in this post.
Of course, there were several alterations to the body of the jacket because the finished hemline measurements were 53" and I wanted a little more space in the jacket. This jacket is being made to coordinate with the skirt and pants already sewn for "The City in Winter Collection", as well as, a future dress. So I wanted some additional width in the jacket for turtlenecks, tops and dresses to fit under it comfortably.
However, the most extensive alterations were made to the sleeves. You see the fact is that even though the treadmill is strengthening my legs and helping with the measurements on my bottom half, my arms/biceps are increasing in width...incremental 1/4 inches but growing just the same. Now I don't want to turn this into an exercise/surgical discussion because they are what they are but it is requiring me to rethink how I do pattern alterations to sleeve pattern pieces.
Last year I took the easy way out. I used jacket patterns with raglan sleeves because the sleeve has a lot of design ease that I used as fitting ease. I also think it's why I'm unhappy wearing jackets...the need to get sleeves to fit without binding my arms throughout the day. Sweaters and cardigans from knit fabrics are just easier to wear and probably accounts for my current love affair with them.
All of that to say that I'm experimenting with how to get more ease into the biceps area of a pattern without adding a lot of space at the sleeve's hemline, especially since I have smaller wrists. Please realize that this is my journey. I'm not sure if this is the correct way to make these alterations. I'm borrowing from a whole lot of places to get the pattern to work for me and honestly that's what I'm most concerned with...getting a sleeve pattern that will work for my body!
The good thing about this sleeve pattern is that it has tucks in the pattern to assist you with inserting it into the cuff. This is fantastic because any additional space at the hemline can be pleated into the cuff. Yes!
Here are my sleeve alterations:
Original sleeve pattern
Sleeve folded to figure out where to add
space to the sleeve
Lines made in the pattern to add space in 2 places
New sleeve traced out after adding to the biceps
New sleeve pattern over sleeve pattern
that was cut & spread
I was reading how Lynn made some changes to a sleeve pattern on her blog, "Wonderfully Made" and had an aha moment. You see Lynn made this wonderful Chanel-esque jacket and she had some challenges with the sleeve. Her solution is in this post and upon reading it I thought I can use that. Using her idea is how I added the needed space to the bicep area of my sleeve pattern ~ pictured above. Thanks Lynn for sharing that!
I've moved onto cutting out the fashion fabric, lining and silk organza underlining. Yeah, I'm going all out in sewing this jacket...mind you sewing a jacket not tailoring one! I'll be back tomorrow with construction info. Hope you're having a wonderful sewing weekend!
...as always more later!