Purple Pleasant Jacket & Dress ~ Part 3

Before we get into any more construction details...look what I found when I was cleaning off my camera...

Maybe this is why I can't find the Lord & Taylor ad.  I took a picture of it and probably threw it out afterwards knowing that I had photographic evidence. Seriously though, doesn't that jacket just make you think of V8815?!

First a disclaimer ~
I'm sure that those of you proficient at pattern drafting gave me the side eye on some of my pattern "alterations."  I'm also sure that there is some dart rotation thingy that I should have done to the front bodice piece instead of my makeshift pattern alterations.  Now if Craftsy could offer a class on pattern alterations, I might sign up for it but for right now, I'm going with what works for me.  

So here is the disclaimer...just because I did this and it worked, doesn't mean that this is the proper way to achieve these results.  I would hate to lead you, the reader, down the wrong path.  I kinda sew intuitively and I knew that the changes I made would work but for the right way, I would suggest that you check out a good patternmaking book like "Patternmaking for Fashion Design" by Helen Joseph-Armstrong.

Okay some more construction details...

The Lining ~

• I used an aubergine lining from my collection for this jacket.  
• All of the pieces were cut out and then serge finished.
• I sewed the lining pieces for the bodice together and then applied them to the  front facing.
• The peplum lining pieces were stitched at the hemline and then the side seams sewn together
• The peplum was sewn to the bodice at the waistline.  
• The lining was folded down 5/8" and then handstitched to cover the bodice/peplum seamline.

The Sleeves ~
The sleeves were inserted into the jacket.  I left them unlined. I went back and forth over whether they should be lined. But I left them unlined because I made changes to the sleeves while I was sewing them to get them to work and I have no way of recreating those changes. Also, I was scared that if I took them apart I wouldn't get them to work in the jacket again. I will also admit that I want to wear the jacket more than I want to figure out how I did it. *sigh*  That's sad isn't it?! But the truth will set you free! *LOL*

So I get the first sleeve in and I have a few puckers.  The kind that you can usually press out.  I use to press my sleeve caps on my ham but a couple of months ago, I bought this shoulder stand after seeing it on Ann's blog. 

OMG, this is a lifesaver!  It pressed my sleeve in perfectly...so very, very glad that I added it to my pressing tools.

Finishing the neckline ~
Of course in my make the lining work insertion, I probably should have sewn the lining down at the neckline and the front neck facing and flipped it into the jacket. But I didn't do that. Didn't even think of it until after I'd sewn the binding onto the neckline and turned it down. Probably if I'd taken more time to really think it out, I would have come to that conclusion but I put finishing the neckline off until I'd worked out all the other challenges. It's not the most "professional" finish but it works.  

Here's what I did...

• I cut a 2" bias strip from my scraps.  
• I seamed it and matched the seam at the center back of the jacket.  
• Stitched the binding to the jacket using a 5/8" seam allowance.
• Trimmed the seam in half.
• Pressed the binding over the trim seam and folded it in half.
• Pressed it flat again.
• Then handstitched it into the jacket.

Lastly here are the buttons that I chose to go on the jacket.  Originally I was going to use gold buttons...even had them picked out.  However, the other day when I was in WalMart browsing the fabric dept that has reappeared in all of my local WalMarts, I found these buttons...

I actually liked them on the jacket front so I'm going to use them.  Now you will notice that the inspiration jacket has no buttons just a belt.  I do have a black skinny belt that I'm going to wear with the jacket but I need buttons or some sort of closure to hold the jacket together underneath my winter coat.  So 4 of these will go on the bodice front of the jacket - not the peplum - it will hang free.

I leave you with the jacket on Lulu which I'm amazed to realize is a little tighter on her than me!  Wow!  

The dress is up next and because I banged it out Sunday morning, I'll leave you with a sneak peek...

...as always more later!