Sunday, July 06, 2014

Cutting out Vogue 8972

The interesting thing about this pattern is that I chose to use three different fabrics for the dress ~ a border print for the top ~ a gray medium weight linen for the center band ~ and a black mid weight linen for the dress skirt.



The Smuggler's Daughter fabric is a border print that needed special cutting to maximize the print and make it most effective for my version of the dress. I used the darkest part of the border print at the bottom of the bodice with the lighter part at the shoulder line.



I reversed the placement for the sleeve ~ using the darker part of the fabric's pattern for the sleeve cap and the lighter area for the length of the sleeve. The sleeves will be unlined unlike the rest of the dress.



A few other things to note about this dress ~

The black linen was used before in this dress.  The reason the fabric has sat on the fabric collection shelves so long is because it wrinkled terribly. I'd planned to use it for another dress but was so disturbed by the wrinkling that I moved on.  So for this version, I cut black silk organza for each of the dress' skirt pieces and basted them together. 

left to right:
1st piece - silk organza pinned and basted to line, 
2nd piece that's already stitched, 3rd piece pinned waiting to be stitched

I will use a rayon bemberg for the skirt of this dress.  Why?  Because being real here it works best with my spanx. Cotton linings catch and rise on the spanx, where the rayon bemberg lays smoothly on top of it. But, I don't like rayon bemberg on the top of my summer linings these days.  Being post menopausal, I perspire differently than I did before.  So I cut a white cotton batiste lining for the top of the dress using my pinking sheers so I wouldn't have to worry about raveling.



The center yoke pieces were cut from a gray broadcloth lining...though that picture is looking more tan than gray...

Yes, that's right the lining was cut from three different fabrics, just like the dress was. I cut the pattern pieces from each lining fabric except for the skirt pieces. Those pieces were cut as one front and two back pieces.

I've already started to assemble the dress so that will be the next post...then the reveal...probably next weekend. 

...as always more later!




17 comments:

  1. I love your use of border print. Looking forward to seeing he finished dress

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  2. Can't wait to see it finished! I love working with border prints and I think your use of the print will be amazing. And I hear ya on the perspiring differently than before. I now think about that when I sew.

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  3. Thanks for sharing the details, this gives me a lot to think about with the lining process.

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  4. Love how you are using the border print on this dress. Waiting to see it revealed in the near future.

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  5. Omg! This is so exciting!!!!!!! I am very integued! Can't wait to see, Carolyn!!!!!

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  6. Oh, I love the border print you are using. Can't wait to see the reveal!

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    1. The border print is "Brave Little Parks" from www.smugglersdaughter.com

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  7. I love this pattern so I'm really looking forward to seeing it made up. Plus you are the master of border prints, so I'm sure it's going to be spectacular

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  8. I love the idea of mixing fabrics in this dress! The border print you're using is magnificent!

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  9. i have similar fabrics and was wondering how one was supposed to cut it to actually make the most of the print - thanks for sharing this tip!

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  10. Wow, I can't wait to see how it turns out. You are so creative.

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  11. Love your creative use of the fabric combo! And your explanation of how you are placing the pattern on the border fabric, Brave Little Parks, is a great case study. BTW - I wondered if I was the only one who experienced the cotton catching on the Spanx - thanks for being real and letting us know that the rayon lies flat with it.

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  12. Thank you for the lovely lesson about taking what you know and have learned about sewing to troubleshoot a project and make things work for your vision. This is what both new and even experienced sewists need to be reminded of. You can take your skills and use them to create whatever is in your mind.

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  13. I love seeing what other sewists do with border prints. and you are one of the experts. Looking forward to seeing the finished dress

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  14. This is a beautiful border print, Carolyn. Can't wait to see the finished garment.

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  15. This is going to be so gorgeous! I love a border print.

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  16. Oooh, I have this pattern and haven't done anything with it. Looking forward to seeing yours and how it ends up. Love your material choice so far.

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