Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Vogue 1308 - Construction - Part A

Of course for my first Jacket of the Month, I picked a really involved garment.  I didn't mean to but it is what it is so...

As I stated before the fabric is really soft and it definitely needs an underlining to add some firmness and stability to the fabric.  So after all of the pattern alterations I basted the front and back pieces together and tried it on to see if the shell would fit and it does.

me wearing shell without any interior structure

Next I added the silk organza underlining to each piece by machine basting it onto the fashion fabric. 

I then stitched up the sides and shoulder seams.  After that the fusible interfacing was added to the jacket shell at the back hemline, the back neckline and the center front, the neckline & hemline.

Now the pattern instructions tell you to add the facings to the garment, then the sleeves and finally the pockets.  I changed this order up.  I added the breast pockets first because it was easier to me to add them at this stage then after the facings and sleeves have been added. 

I will add the sleeves next.  They are cut out and awaiting the silk organza underlining and fusible interfacing at the hem line.

This jacket construction is a process.  It's all about layering.  As each sewing technique is completed, you layer the next one onto the previous one...and it's laborious.  This is not a quick sew and go jacket.  I keep telling myself that once this piece is completed, the rest of the garments will just fall into place and before I know it, the collection will be done.  That's what I keep telling myself!  *LOL*

Here is a bad picture of the jacket as it stands now on Lulu. 

I say bad picture because Lulu's back is bigger than mine so it closes funny over her and pulls...plus I think Lulu needs an FBA and I wasn't experiencing that problem...could be that Lulu is perkier and higher than I am now!  *LOL*  Though it is interesting that this pattern has no darts...

Anyway, I'm back to work tomorrow so the rest of the construction will have to wait for the weekend.

...as always, more later!


  1. I am liking those pockets. Really interesting detail.

  2. Love love love love those pockets! What a wonderful juxtaposition of an "all business" fabric with arty details!

  3. Love your pockets! Just read an article in Threads about pockets, or was it Vogue Patterns ? Whatever, that is a great design idea and of course, I expect that from you. Your jacket is going to look great!

  4. I'm following along with great interest. I need jacket tutoring!
    A little confusion though, since you put the silk organza and baste all around, do you fuse the interfacing at neck, etc. to the organza?

  5. Oh I love the pockets and that you made the stripes chevron at the top. Also the buttons. As always - great job. g

  6. Add me to the pocket-lovin' brigade, and the top with the chevron details is nice too.

  7. Ditto on the pockets; they are really cute.

    Is this a pattern you've used before? I know that you usually work off of one that you already spent time on adjusting. I really need to work on a basic block so that I can enjoy sewing again rather than stress over the fit every single time.

  8. I'm forever changing the order of construction, because I think it makes more sense to do it a different way. Sleeves are always last to be added, because I feel that they can get tangled up in the rest of the detailing, hemming and whatnot. You are making nice progress; good luck with your jacket a month program.

  9. I have a Threads magazine with the back photo of a pocket similar to yours. Very lovely!

  10. I too love those pockets! The minute I saw the article I knew the next jacket or even shirt I made I was adding pockets just like that :) Love that you used this detail on your jacket!

  11. Those pockets are so BLING :)

  12. Where do you get the time to do all of this.I'm still in the xmas mode[sadly]!!!ps would you mind checking out my blog as Iv'e only just started www.patriciasfabricart.blogspot.com

  13. The jacket looks great so far. Thanks for sharing the process and discussing the effect of the layeringing. Like Shams the those pockets are great.


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