Monday, November 14, 2016

Vogue 8935 - Tailored Denim

I started this journey with Vogue 8935, a top that I made back in 2013 for my professional life.  Believe it or not but this outfit survived the great purge. Not because the outfit was worn recently but because I thought I could wear the pieces separately.  The top would work with jeans or leggings and the skirt with a t-shirt or top. Yeah okay, hasn't been worn that way yet but there is still hope!

I know this pattern wasn't well received when it first showed up in the pattern collection and it's now out of print (OOP). There are only three reviews of the pattern on PatternReview and one of them is mine. I also know of two other sewists who made versions of the pattern ~ Donna from Curvy Girls are Chic and Barbara from Sewing from the Edge.

Here are the supplies I'm using in this version ~
8 oz denim from Stylemaker Fabrics (I bought 10 yards of this so you're going to see quite a few garments this fall/winter made from this fabric)
Cotton Shirting from Fabric Mart

5 - Mother of pearl shank buttons from the collection
Fusible interfacing from Fashion Supply Group
One elastic twist

Pattern Alterations and Construction Info. ~
I made two alterations to the pattern based upon wearing the original one.

1. I removed another 1" from the shoulder seam on both the front and back pieces. I used shoulder pads to cover the fact that the shoulder seams were a schooch too long in the original. I don't want that for this version.

2. I shortened the main sleeve by 1" because the original one was long and I remember always pushing them up.

Making the shirt tail extension ~
Obviously the biggest change for this version is the shirt tail. I actually drafted the skirt tail pieces myself. 

Here is a pictorial instruction on how to do it yourself:

On the front piece ~
1. I added an inch to the hem bottom.
2. Then I drew down another 4"
3. Used my curved ruler to get the shirt tail side 

Then I added 2" to the front so that it would form a lapped over center front piece. You can see in the picture above that I actually folded the piece to make sure it would work and overlap properly.

Steps 1-3 were used on the back piece to get the shirt tail extension.

The shirt tail extensions were cut from the shirting fabric with 
the stripes running vertically.

Otherwise the construction will be exactly the same as the last version. 
Here is a picture of how the shirt looks now laying on my cutting table and I may still remove the shirt tail extensions so that they lay under the top instead of being sewn to the hemline. The pictures are showing something to me that looks a little off now. I will see.

There is still a couple of hours of work to get this finished and onto my body.

A close up of the sleeves and the mother of pearl shank buttons ~

I thought I would have been able to spend some quality time in the sewing cave this weekend but whatever bug is making the rounds laid me up. This will definitely be finished next weekend cause the temps are dropping here on the East Coast. This top will be perfect for the job with my ponte skinny jeans.

Finally ~ 
Thank you to everyone who left a comment on my last post. Thanking you for being kind and not bashing anyone...well at least not on the post. I didn't have to remove one comment and I appreciate that. I know that writing the post helped me feel better especially once I saw so many other sewists who understood how I felt. I hope having a safe space to leave your comment provided you with a similar feeling. 

As I said, that will be my one and only post on the election on the blog...can't guarantee that on Instagram! *LOL* The blog will continue to be my safe, sane, sewing space cause I think I'm going to need it in the next four years. To all my new followers both here and on Instagram thank you for taking this journey with me! always more later! May Jesus watch over us and grant us peace!


  1. This is really nice! I like the collar in particular. God Bless. Nancy B

  2. Yes, grant us peace :) The top is looking good. Hope you are feeling better.

  3. I love the top :) And God is always in control, even when everything seems out of control. I have to tell myself this all of the time due to my anxiety and panic disorder that takes over my life sometimes. God bless.

  4. Love the way this top is shaping up.
    Hope that you are feeling much, much better very soon.

  5. What a great look you are creating! I love the combo of fabrics. This should look great with leggings, slacks or a skirt. Can you salvage the more professional one, to adapt to your current job, or is it still workable? I am in awe of all that you create, and your ability to change up patterns. I am still on that quest for my " perfect" blouse: back yoke, forward shoulder/yoke, and hopefully, hidden button placket a la Evan Picone's from the 80s. I must have had ten of those in solids, plaids and florals. I can easily find patterns with deep back yokes and know how to add to the back so I can gather the back softly under the yoke, but the front is a different story. I have to thank you for the on-going inspiration. Once I get the worst of these orthopedic surgical issues under control, I am going to start sewing again. Being retired and home much of the time, I need mostly casual wear but do need Church and lunch appropriate outfits too, which are woefully lacking. I have lost 18 lbs though so I am on my way to a better size. I loved your bangs. Have you given up on them? Also, thank you for the safe platform to state election feelings. I was unfriended on FB by one long-time friend and got a scathing message from another, whom I unfriended. I do not need the vitriol in my life. I love the cardis you made for the little ones!

  6. Are you using the elastic twist for the button loop?
    This top is really sharp; see, it's not that hard to take Pattern A and change one part of it to get a totally different look. And that is pretty fabulous

    1. Yeap, the elastic twist is being used as a button loop.

    2. Your looks great! This is a very easy pattern and you can alter in so many ways like you did! thanks for naming me in your post 💖💖

    3. By the way doll is that a pocket ruler if so where did you get it. I love the denim fabric too!

  7. Nice looking jacket, Carolyn. Hope you feel better soon.

  8. Carolyn, this is so sharp! Your adjustments give this make a touch of formality and fun. Can't wait to see the final result.

  9. Carolyn this top is AWESOME! I love when sewists get all "project runway" with the creations! I love what you've done with this pattern and made it your own! I can't wait to see you in it!

  10. This is looking really sharp Carolyn.

  11. Eveytime I look at your pictures with your pattern alterations i asked my self what kind of papper pattern/ tissue you are using. It looks different to the one we are using in Germany. Is this backing paper?

    1. I buy this pattern paper from Amazon because it was recommended by a fellow sewing blogger:

  12. Lovely top and like the use of 2 different Fabrics.

  13. Oh I LOVE that! I see you making a few more versions of that, it's a nice basic piece that you can do a lot of variations on!

  14. That's looking nice! I like the contrast and the shaped hem.
    Is the pattern drafted for wovens?

    I do have a question for the queen of ponte / double knits.
    Do you line your ponte dresses and tops? I've just finished one ponte top, have another on the sewing table and yet another dress to cut. The patterns call for lining. (the top also called for a CB zipper which was totally ridiculous and unnecessary) I've made the one top without lining, have started the next wihtout lining. The dress - I want to wear it next Thursday so I need to get on the stick about making it. - but, it was recommended to me by some on the FB sewing group page to line it. So I've ordered lining, stretch power mesh. But I wanted to ask you, because you sew more Ponte than anyone else I know.

    1. Hey Marji - I sent you an email with this info. Yeah and I do kinda love to sew and wear ponte.

  15. Hallo. I m following your blog for several years and this is the first time I respond, just to let you know how your journy in your sewing cave inspired me. Groet Tracey

  16. Carolyn
    I have also followed you for years and am amazed by what you do. Thank you for sharing your sewing adventures and your thoughts from last week. I hope the out pouring of supported brighten your day.

  17. Caroline,

    This post has nothing to do with your blog post, I have been reading your blog since the beginning and love it.
    I have started teaching sewing at the library in my town.
    I have two girls about 12 years old who are interested in learning to sew. They are very bright.

    I have been sewing my own tailored clothes for years I have no children. I know that you sewed for your kids growing up and now for the grandkids.

    I bought a sewing machine when I was 13 at a garage sale for $10.00 and taught myself, as you can imagine I made a ton of mistakes. I think that young kids are eager to learn to sew but there is no sewing classes in schools and some kids cant afford the classes in the stores or the stores are far away.

    I would appreciate any wisdom you have on sewing for tweens or teaching them to sew.

    If you feel like doing a blog post about it, I know this is your blog it is just a suggestion, I dont mean to be presumptous. I would welcome all wisdom from you and your readers.

    Happy Holiday.


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