Sunday, December 20, 2009

Burda Style Skirt 12-2009-112

Well I have one more black skirt...or the Burda Style skirt is done!



One of the reasons that it took so long to finish this skirt is because I knew I would never be happy with the button closure on the waistband.  I loved the front drape but was totally turned off by the button closures.  I think this works great in the skinnier sizes as evidenced by the great skirts that Sharon, Elizabeth and Karen made.  However, as a plus size chick those buttons just weren't working for me.

So yet again, I changed the pattern...although this does fit with my sewing motto...that a pattern is just a jumping off point.  In my opinion, the change that I made to the skirt was minor...it just made it easier to wear.  But I'm sure that from a design standpoint, it's major...since the button front along with the drape are "the hook" that elevates this skirt from a regular old pencil skirt.  Whatever...

So some stats:

Fabric:
Skirt shell is from 100% worsted wool crepe that was purchased from Fabric Mart
Lining is from a silk charmeuse print also from Fabric Mart

Notions:
9" invisible black zipper
2 - 5/8" black buttons from the collection
black rayon hem tape

The pattern alterations were extensive and are detailed in this post.  And after much discussion in the comments section, I am glad that I went with my TNT skirt pattern especially since this pattern stops at a size 46.  I don't believe that I would have gotten as great a fit particularly in the back of the skirt, if I hadn't used my TNT skirt pieces. 



One final thing, I did do a hard press in my drape/pleat.  I wanted the definition and for the pleat to stand out.  The directions don't tell you to do this but I would recommend it.  The soft drape is kinda wimpy to me...pressing it makes it command attention.

If I make this skirt again, I would do a few things differently:

1.  I would put the invisible zipper in the back.  It would just flow better.  The zipper in the side isn't bad but in my opinion it would just work better in the back.

2.  I've used 3/8" seam allowances in this version probably because I forgot to add a seam allowance to the front pattern piece on the drape side.  I'm old fashion, I like 5/8" seam allowances.  I sew them naturally because they are now ingrained into my sewing psyche.

3.  I would lengthen the pattern another inch or two.  I have a 1/2" hem in this skirt and would like a deeper hem...again just my personal preference.

4.  I would not add a back vent when placing the invisible zipper in a center back seam because there is plenty of room to walk in the skirt.  The pleated front piece gives you enough space so that walking is easy in the skirt.

Some pictures:



the invisible zipper and button closure



a sideview of the skirt showcasing the pleat/drape



a full view where you can see the pleat

I have some eggplant wool crepe pulled out to make this skirt again, but first I want to make one more dress before the year ends.  If I can get one more finished before December 31st, I will have made 20 dresses this year...and even though it's not a major distinction, I would like to accomplish this minor goal.

Christmas is Friday and my family celebrates on Christmas Eve so I probably won't be posting again until after Christmas Day! 
I am wishing all of you a very Merry Christmas ~ full of love, joy family, and good food.  If you are traveling anywhere I hope that you are blessed with traveling mercies and that you don't end up spending hours upon hours in your local airport!  I also hope that you receive as much as you've given!  Great sewing presents for all!!!



...and as always...more later!

46 comments:

  1. Oooh! I think it looks wonderful! :-)

    I always end up being the opposite with seam allowances, I prefer to sew 3/8th & feel so weird sewing patterns that have 5/8 allowances. It feels like there is soooo much extra fabric there. Funny how you can get so used to something like that. ;)

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  2. Your skirt turned out great. Merry Christmas.

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  3. Your skirt looks great and I really like you in red!

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  4. Merry Christmas, Carolyn,

    Love the skirt. BTW, is your eggplant wool crepe from Nuts and Bolts by any chance?

    Stash

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  5. The shape looks fantastic on you, but it's hard to photograph black, so it's hard to see the drape in the photos. If you make it in a different color, I would be interested to see it again.

    Merry Christmas, Carolyn!

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  6. This style really suits you, it looks great! Thanks for a wonderful year of blog posts and wishing you and your family an enjoyable Christmas, holiday and New Year.

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  7. Beautiful skirt, can't wait to see another! Have a Merry Christmas!

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  8. Merry Christmas to you too! Hope all your sewing wishes come true. And 20 dresses in one year? Wow, I think that is a high distinction :)

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  9. Fabulous skirt! You are so inspiring.

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  10. And Merry Christmas to you and yours, too!
    Linda

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  11. Happy Happy Holidays to you. Love the skirt - I just picked up the December Burda on Friday (yes it took that long for Borders to get it). Anyway - I so want to make this skirt and the cute little straight skirt with the ruffle around the bottom.

    And as much as I love fresh snow - you are so right about everything else about it.

    g

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  12. The skirt looks great. It's amazing how a small design detail turns a simple skirt into something special!

    Merry Christmas to you and your family!

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  13. I am so glad to see your finished version, I've been waiting and waiting! It looks great and there are lots of great tips here for me to take into account when I try this one.

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  14. As always, it turned out beautifully. I love your sense for proportion! Love the top with it, too. Have a wonderful Christmas with your family!

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  15. Turned out beautifully! Have a wonderful holiday. Good luck with that 20th dress. That's an amazing total!

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  16. The pleat is a nice twist to a black skirt. You are looking lovely. Merry christmas.

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  17. Great skirt - great job making it your own!

    Merry Christmas - I hope you have a wonderful day, full of family, love and cheer.

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  18. Beautiful! You did an amazing job and it looks wonderful on you!

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  19. Nice sewing, as always. I feel that a pattern is just a "suggestion". It doesn't have to followed to the letter.

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  20. Beautiful skirt.

    Have a merry Christmas Carolyn.

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  21. The skirt turned out wonderful, very elegant.
    Merry Christmas to you and yours!

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  22. The skirt is beautiful!!! Merry Christmas Carolyn.

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  23. The skirt looks wonderful on you! Have a Merry Christmas!

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  24. Very classy skirt! It looks so nice with the red top as well.

    Merry Christmas to you and your family!

    Lynda in LV

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  25. What a year!!! I am so glad I found your site, you are an inspiration to all. I have the pattern, but need some "me time" to work out the process.

    Blessings to you. Hurry back!

    Lydia

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  26. The skirt looks great! A Merry Christmas to you. Greetings from one of your frequent readers from overseas, Anke

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  27. Beautiful skirt. The pleat/drape makes this pencil skirt look really special and interesting. You have achieved a perfect fit and it hangs so well - it looks very elegant and sleek on you. I love that lining.

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  28. The skirt looks great on you! Best wishes to you and your family for a wonderfl holiday!

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  29. Great skirt, it hangs perfectly. I'm working on a black pencil skirt at the moment, a wardrobe essential I think. Have a very Happy Christmas and don't let all that snow get you down!

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  30. Agreed - patterns are a jumping off point! Adding your own personal touches/preferences really makes that garment your own.

    Merry Christmas to you and your family!

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  31. I'm STILL waiting for you to join the Parade of Burda Fans. LOL! At least, now we have your attention!

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  32. Carolyn.- My best wishes to you and yours in the Christmas holidays. Hugs from Spain, Paco

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  33. I am looking forward to making this skirt, just have to decide what fabric to use!

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  34. Have a Merry Christmas! Looking forward to a new year of reading your "sewing diary"!!! I soaked in as much as I could in 2009. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

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  35. You look beautiful! Merry Christmas to you and yours!

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  36. Really lovely skirt - especially that kick of print for the lining. So fun! I hope you get that last dress in for 2009. It's always nice to have a goal and meet it. :)

    Merry Christmas to you and yours.

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  37. It is wonderful to see so many interested sewers! You might like our free Fashion For Real People newsletter. View the latest and past issues at www.palmerpletsch.com. Pati Palmer

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  38. A classic straight black skirt is always a wonderful addition to any wardrobe, and your pleat is a nice touch. I never put zippers on the side, because I'm touchy about adding extra bulk to one hip. It's probably just a personal quirk. I've recently learned to use invisible zippers, too, and I love them!

    Merry Christmas, Carolyn. Enjoy that new baby boy, and cherish the time with your girls!

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  39. Fabulous outfit!

    Merry Christmas Carolyn! Have a joyful holiday.

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  40. am looking forward to making this skirt, just have to decide what fabric to use!

    Work from home India

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  41. A great looking skirt! As always it fits you perfect and you made it your own :)

    Have a very Merry Christmas!

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  42. Merry Christmas, Carolyn, to you and all your Family!

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  43. Wow, so much fun to see them all at once! I loved the eyelet dress, as well as #5...so fresh and modern. You've definitely had a great fashion year! Can't wait to see what you have in store for 2010, especially once you get into the vintage patterns and detailing.

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