Monday, November 01, 2010

Vogue 8666 - Pattern Alterations

I'm making this version of the dress to see if I want to use this pattern for my Birthday Gala Dress.  It is a slim fitting dress and the pattern only goes up to a size 20 so alot of pattern alterations were needed to get this to fit my body.

Of course I started these pattern alterations with my TNT dress pattern.  I know this fits so why reinvent the wheel!  However, I usually slice my sleeve pattern pieces down the center and add a seam to add width at the bicep area of the sleeve.  But since I want lace sleeves on the Birthday Gala Dress, I really wanted a one piece sleeve so that I don't have to piece the lace.

Sleeve Alterations:
So the sleeve alterations were the most involved in this project.  The first thing that I did was to lay the sleeve from my TNT dress pattern down on the cutting table.  Then I placed the sleeve from the V8666 dress on top of the TNT sleeve.  On top of that I placed a piece of pattern paper ~ making a pattern sandwich.  I traced the sleeve cap of the V8666 sleeve and the sides of the TNT sleeve (for the bicep width) onto the pattern paper.


After I had the new sleeve pattern, I did a tissue fit and realized that it was still a little tight.  So I sliced the sleeve pattern from the hem to 1/2" below the top of the sleeve cap and spread the sleeve to add another inch.  I added paper and taped it down.  Then I put another piece of pattern paper over this sleeve because even though the bicep width was now perfect the sleeve hem was way too large!

For the third version, I traced the sleeve cap and the sides of the sleeve down an inch past my fullest bicep measurement.  Then I started to remove some of the excess width from the forearm and sleeve hem. 


I did a few tissue fittings with the pattern until I had the correct width at the bicep, the forearm and the sleeve hem.  Pictured below is the final sleeve pattern piece that I will use for the wearable muslin version of the dress. I believe this piece will work with the lace for the Birthday Gala Dress, too.


Now a disclaimer ~ my sleeve pattern is a little skewed looking.  It does not look like the perfect pattern pieces that come out of the envelope...BUT it is perfect for my arms.  So if it looks a little funny, that's because it's fitted to me!

Front & Back Pattern Pieces:
The Front and Back pieces were less involved.  The main front piece was easy to copy.  Making the pattern copying sandwich, I placed the center front lines of both the TNT dress pattern and the V8666 pattern pieces together, laid a blank piece of pattern paper on top and traced a new front pattern piece out.  The same procedure was done for the main back piece, too.


The side front and back were a little more challenging to enlarge.  But basically I just added two inches to the sides of each piece to make them work. 


Normally, I would lay the two pattern pieces (main front & side front) together to insure that they will work together.  But this time the front side is so curved that I couldn't tell by laying them next to each other...the same with the back and side back pieces.  I was just hoping that they would work...though that is what muslins are for, right?!

So the pattern pieces were all cut out and serged to clean finish them...I will have more on the construction process later.

As a parting shot, here are two shots of me wearing the vest with the black turtleneck, as well as, the black ltwt stretch wool pants from my SWAP collection.

side view


and front view


...as always, more later!

31 comments:

  1. Love the vest modeled on you. The collar does look modern and current!

    As far as "odd looking sleeve patterns" go, it can't be odd if it's a perfect fit. Nice job with the alterations.

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  2. I love the vest on you, too. Dressy casual is a good look for you. :)

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  3. The vest looks terrific - I'm sure you'll get loads of wear from it. Thanks so much for sharing your pattern alterations - I really like the pattern sandwich method. I really do need to get some proper TNT patterns happening for myself! Lara

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  4. it looks so good, so warm and comfy. Great job Carolyn

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  5. I really like the look of this vest. It is very flattering on you!

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  6. Your vest looks great on you. Very stylish.

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  7. I too really like the vest! And I see nothing wrong with the neck at all! I do like the grey on you!
    Isn't it funny how some pattern pieces that we have altered can look soo weird, but they come out just the way you want when all is said and done? That's the important part anyway! That they fit they way you want!

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  8. Did you make the turtleneck too? If so, what pattern did you use? I have been looking for one but can't seem to find one.

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  9. That is going to be fabulous. I can't wait to see its progress!

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  10. The vest looks terrific. I love gray and black and this vest is perfect.

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  11. I enjoyed looking at the photos of your sleeve pattern alteration because the bicep area is where I have a little extra but like you I don't want fabric swimming at the wrist. I have never seen an instruction drawing show your straight sharp line until past the bicep fullness and then the taper down, but I am going to keep that image in my head next fitted sleeve pattern I make. Thank you.

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  12. Oh, I love that vest!!!! You look warm and perfectly dressy/casual!

    Thanks for showing us how you make the pattern sandwich. Very clever.

    Do you think you might need to add little "wings" at the hem of your sleeve for the lace to turn up? I don't know how wide you'll make your hem or if your lace is at all stretchy, but from the angle of the photo, it looks like you might need to add those.

    You amaze me!

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  13. Love the vest! It looks fantastic! And thank you for walking us through the alterations process. I love to see how everything goes together!

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  14. Dressing down while still being dressed up. Go on with your bad self!

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  15. Super smart to use what you know fits! It doesn't matter what that sleeve pattern looks like on paper; if it looks good on you, that's all that matters.

    That vest is so smart looking!

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  16. That vest is fantastic! I love your new sidebar photo, too.

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  17. Love the vest! That's a great casual outfit!

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  18. Though casual, your vest also gives a sophisticated look! Love the outfit!

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  19. Love love love the vest! Did you say where you got the fabric? Wonder if I can find some. I'm going back to re-read that post.

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  20. I really, really like this vest. This is another example of something I would have passed over until I saw it on a real human being. I love it!

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  21. wow! The vest looks so stylish and flattering.

    I like your technique of making your sandwich with the tissue on top. I will definitely try that one and thanks.

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  22. I really, really like this vest on you. Looks very chic.

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  23. I love the vest on you! You look very chic.

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  24. Thanks for sharing your information. Altering patterns can be intimidating at times.

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  25. You dieting? You look great! Love the vest!

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  26. Carolyn,
    This vest looks wonderful on you. You have an amazing talent for choosing fabrics and styles which flatter.

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  27. The vest is a total winner! Very nice. :)

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  28. Love your outfit! The vest looks terrific on you!

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