Thursday, January 13, 2011

My version of Butterick 5566 - Part I

I love snow when it means that I can stay home and sew!  And that's exactly what I did yesterday...I mean after I piddled around on the internet...read some more of my book...and slept late!

But I was on a mission.  I wanted to make my version of Butterick 5566 before I lost the fire.  So here is where it stands right now...


...this picture is taken with it unpressed, without a lining, no waistband treatment or a hem.  But it fits and my pattern adjustments work...so I'm happy.   Since there's a three day weekend coming up, I will finish it so that I can move back to the Pinstripe Follies pantsuit.

Pattern Alterations:

1.  I traced out two new copies of my TNT skirt pattern...one right side and one left side.

2.  Then I taped the two sides together.


3.  Judging by the pattern picture, I measured down approximately 3" past the hip curve and placed a dotted line across the front of the pattern piece.  I used this as the starting place to make the curved front pieces.

4.  Next I formed the main curved piece across the front of the skirt piece.

5.  After this was formed, I curved the small side piece using the dotted line as my ending point.

6.  At this point, I cut the pattern pieces apart and realized that I was concentrating so hard on getting this right, that I neglected to take pictures of that part of the process...sorry!

7.  Since the top pieces were being made out of pleather like one of the views from the original pattern, I omitted the darts.  I did this by slicing each dart down the center and then taping it flat.  I also taped the little point at the end of each dart flat.


8.  I then placed another piece of tracing paper on top of this piece and traced a clean pattern piece. I added a 5/8" seam allowance to the bottom of this piece.


9.  The smaller side front piece just needed 5/8" seam allowances added to both edges.


10.  Finally the triangular skirt front bottom piece also needed 5/8" seam allowances added to it...and I was ready to cut it out from the fashion fabrics.


Construction:

1.  I used the pleather that I recently purchased from Fabric Mart for the skirt panels and some black wool crepe, that is a staple in my fabric collection, for the base of the skirt front and back.


2.  Because I was concerned that the pleather might be a little heavier than the wool crepe, I added a silk organza underlining to each piece to make the wool crepe more staple and a little heftier.

3.  After applying the silk organza underlining, I sewed the smaller triangle side piece to the skirt bottom first, making sure to match center fronts.

4.  Then I sewed the longer top piece to the skirt bottom.  This insured that the points would form correctly in the finished piece.  I also clipped the seams to make sure that the fabrics would lay flat.

5.  An invisible zipper was placed in the back of the skirt and the side seams where sew together.


...this is where the skirt stands now...

The picture is lightened so that you can see the details.

I haven't cut the lining out yet and I have to decide how to finish the waistline since I'm winging this without Butterick's instructions.  I've also decided that with the amount of work that I've put into this skirt, that I need to find one of the silk charmeuses from the fabric closet to use as a lining instead of the ambience lining I normally use.

But it works!  And it fits!  Can you see me doing the joy-joy dance! *LOL*  I also think I'm going to have to make a top to go over this so that you can see that banding when I'm wearing the skirt.  I'm sure I've left something out, so if you don't understand ask and I will explain.

Finally, one of the comments I received on the original post about this skirt was why didn't I use a sloper instead of my TNT pattern.  The answer is simple.  A sloper has no ease in it or seam allowances.  It's just a fitted shell that you design off of but with my TNT pattern I know that not only does it fit but the ease is right...the hemline is where I want it to be...the darts work and I can manipulate it without having to make these fitting decisions every time.  I really just want to make design changes...not fitting decisions because I'm lazy...that's why I have TNT patterns!  *smile*

Okay, I will probably post pictures of the finished skirt over the weekend...so stay tuned...

...as always, more later!

36 comments:

  1. That is looking SO GOOD! I'm interested to see what you do with the waist finish - a facing maybe?

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  2. That looks excellent and quite sexy !! I am glad you have followed through with this . I am plus sized and I also get quite peeved when pattern companies dont make the effort especially when alot of people who do sew for themselves are plus sized or have wierd body shapes Good on ya mate ( as we would say down under)

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  3. I can't wait to see it finished, it looks amazing. It is your use of TNT's that is making me look at mine a lot more differently :)

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  4. You don't need to send any purchases Butterick's way - you did it! And it probably took you less time than starting from scratch on a new pattern. Love the skirt!

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  5. That looks great! I love the contrast of the two fabrics. There was a dress in a recent (?) Burda that used pleather panels but this is so much more wearable than that.

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  6. I love love love love how you make things work! This is going to be so pretty!

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  7. Wow, that is a stunning skirt! Wah, I want a snow day. The only days we get off are for hurricanes, which are not fun. :-( Someone told me last night that Florida is the only state which hasn't had snow! On Tuesday it was 84 and I had my air on. Today I'll be wearing one of my new jackets!

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  8. WOW! Love this! Great job! Anoter winner. ~Valerie

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  9. Wow, this looks UHmazing so far. Stunning and quality. Can't wait to see you wear it. Do you have a sexy cream silk blouse you could tuck into the waist to show it off?

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  10. Great! Nice combination of fabrics.

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  11. This looks really good, sounds like you had a perfect snow day.

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  12. This is looking fabulous, Caroline. How about a crisp white shirt, all tucked in, to wear with it?

    I am with you on the sloper/TNT discussion. Once you have some basic TNTs you certainly don't need a sloper and you have proven so beautifully how successful those TNTs can be.

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  13. Nicely done! Another winning addition to your fabulous wardrobe!

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  14. Carolyn, your skirt is coming along beautifully!! You definitely know your stuff. I ditto Bunny.
    As for the waistband, I would suggest using just a facing because you don't want the upper skirt to get too bulky~ just keep it like the picture. However, you are so creativ, I'm interested in knowing what you're gonna pull out of the box. :)

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  15. I love your skirt! Congrats on a beautiful creation...and a productive snow day!

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  16. It looks awesome!! The Butterick skirt just has a waistline facing. It isn't lined. If it were me, I'd probably line to the waistline and stabilize with tape - that way no facings to add bilk. I think yours will be vastly superior to the original.

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  17. Love the skirt Carolyn. I can't wait to see how you style it. I'm sure one of your fabulous twin sets will go perfectly with it.

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  18. I'm drooling and wanting one just like it.

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  19. Your skirt looks great! And thank you very much for your master-class

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  20. This looks so good Carolyn!

    I think I've said this before, but all of your TNT pattern cutting and changing and whatnot has totally inspired me in my own sewing. I think I've now got two good basic TNTs under my belt and I'm gunning for several more. If I can ever get around to taking pictures of the garments, I'll be able to expouse more on this on the old blog. I'm thinking you'll totally get my thoughts on the subject. :)

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  21. I LOVE this! The black-on-black texture mix is just so stylish. This reminds me of Tany's forays into pleather late last year!

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  22. I love seeing how you manipulate your TNTs. It makes so much sense and makes me think even I could do it. Thank you.

    by the way - that skirt is amazing! And incredibly sexy - will you wear it to work? g

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  23. You inspire me!! I have recently embarked on a mission to find a TNT skirt pattern. I love watching you create! Your skirt is beautiful.

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  24. Va-Voom! What a great skirt. I'm thinking a silk blouse would be the perfect accompaniment.

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  25. I am jealous that you got to stay home and sew because of snow. I am getting as bad as my kids in hoping for "snow days". I have always loved the look of leather/pleather and wool combined in a garment. I think it always looks so lux and classy and your skirt confirms that.

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  26. You go girl! Yeah for snow days and Yeah for getting a (not so personal) challenge from one of the pattern companies. Your skirt looks mahvelous!

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  27. So loving the look of your skirt....

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  28. Carolyn that skirt is wonderful. I love how you talke an idea and one of your tnt patterns andcreate it. Very inspiring.

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  29. What a wonderful way to spend a snow day! I was hoping for one today but it cleared up during the night :(

    Your skirt looks beautiful!

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  30. Looking good! I love the idea of the pleather. And by the way, your tnt pattern are you sloper(my way of thinking). As always a great job.

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  31. That skirt is looking so sharp, can't wait to see the completed project!

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  32. This is my favorite part of sewing: taking a basic pattern and changing it up to fit your own vision! You do this well and I enjoy reading about the details. Thanks!

    Sarah

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  33. Wow!! I'm glad you didn't let the fire go out! Now,don't be surprised if you see this technique again on someone else's blog. Lol I simply love this skirt.

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  34. Wow. You are so gifted at adapting RTW.

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