The Rachel Dress 2 - Construction Details

I found this fabric in the craft store that masquerades as a fabric store years and years ago...when I still deigned to cross it's threshold.  It was in the 50% off area and I loved the appliques on the fabric so I bought it and it's been in the collection ever since waiting it's turn to become something wonderful.

I pulled it out when I was inspired by this Jason Wu dress last fall:

It really called out to become my Fall/Winter version of The Rachel Dress. Then after looking at and blogging about the Chanel Spring Couture 2012 line with the emphasis on pockets, I knew I had to get this dress finished before it became too warm to wear it.


So here's some details:
Fabric Prep:
I steamed the heck out of the wool to pretreat it.


Pattern Prep:
Yes, I ironed the pattern pieces - *LOL*


Construction:
You would think that careful placement of the lace appliques would be a priority when laying out the pattern pieces. However, after examining the fabric I realized that except for not getting some right over my backside (which I managed to do anyway!) the randomness of the appliques meant that I had to have a "go with the flow" attitude about the applique placement. 


This was also one of the most ravelly fabrics that I've worked with in some time! It shed whenever it moved until I serged all of the edges and even then I had to constantly clean my serger blade and stitch area because the fabric made alot of fuzz!


Also because the fabric was so soft I had some challenges with the neckline stretching out during the serging process.  I thought I would be okay, but as I worked with the dress, the neckline became even more distorted.  I really should have dealt with this issue at the beginning of the construction process. However, I did manage to bring the neckline back under control.

  
*First I measured the wayward dress front against the front of my TNT dress pattern piece:

*Then I measured a piece of stay tape against the front of the pattern piece. *After cutting it exactly (which is important!) I pinned it to three crucial points on the dress' neckline.  
*At each corner of the shoulder and in the center point of the dress, the stay tape was pinned down.  
*Then using a larger stitch (stitch width 4) I slowly stitched the stay tape down, easing the excess fabric in.  
*Finally, I pressed the stay tape flat.

As you can see, this tamed the wayward neckline.  I then added stay tape to the back neckline and when I sewed the shoulder seams together it was sewn into those seams also.  I treated the fabric like a knit since it liked to grow at certain stress points.  And yes, I know I sewed the stay tape to the front of the garment instead of the back, but since I will be adding a lining to the garment, I don't think it makes much of a difference...unless of course I broke one of the major sewing rules! *wicked grin*

The center back seam was fused with a 1" strip of the baby interfacing from Farmhouse Fabrics, to stabilize it for the invisible zipper insertion.  This is a really old tip but just in case someone isn't aware of it ~ I cut about a quarter of a yard of fusible interfacing into one inch strips and save them in a ziplock bag for times like these.  That way I always have some on hand.


Finally a shot of the dress on the hanger sleeveless...

Front with the pockets

back view with those

appliques near my backside!

The dress will have short sleeves and I will add a lining.  I'm trying to decide if I will add some black rayon bias binding to the neckline and sleeve hems...ah decisions, decisions!


...as always, more later!