Wednesday, December 05, 2018

Black Ponte Jacket with Lace Trim

This jacket is made using McCalls 7481 as the base and it's Chico inspired.  


I found the inspiration jacket on Chico's website and it started this sewing journey.




All of the pattern alterations were completed that's why I started with it. I have two successful versions of the jacket in my closet another reason to use it.

Supply List ~
- 2.5 yards of black ponte fabric from Fabric Mart
- 1.5" lace from Joyce Trimmings
- 3" lace from M&J Trimmings
- black 'n white bias binding from the collection via Fabric Mart
- Five 7/8" black buttons from Pacific Trimmings
- One 1 1/8" black button from WalMart

Construction ~
I made no alterations to this pattern besides choosing the length and omitting the lining.  The Chicos inspiration jacket has a mandarin collar. I decided to use the collar from the pattern. Then I made it a journey because I added lace to the collar. Being extra again...

Side seam pockets were added but they hung funny. I thought of a couple of ideas to make the pockets work but ultimately decided that I didn't need them.  So I unpicked all of that black thread on black ponte fabric. As I was doing it, I realized that I've really grown because there was a time when I would have just chucked the outfit. But my unpicking heros, Grace and Lara have convinced me that ripping is worth it. Sometimes you've just got to do it to make your design idea work.

My silk organza pressing cloth got a work out on this project. I normally don't use one on ponte fabric but since I was doing some heavy duty pressing, I didn't want to put a shine on the fabric.  It was a good decision!


The highlight of this jacket is the lace on the collar, the sleeve and jacket hemlines.


The bias binding finishing on the inside just makes my heart sing. I only had enough in the notions stash to trim out the facings and the hemline.  So the side seams are just serged. BTW, while this bias tape came on a roll, it had to be pressed into shape to be used. It's some of the leftover binding tapes I bought from Fabric Mart over a decade ago.


A Hong Kong finish was used because I love how cleanly it finishes the seams. To me its worth the extra time and effort this finishing takes. There are loads of tutorials on how to sew Hong Kong binding in a garment, just Google it. I would hate to recommend one since there are various sewists showing how the technique is done and probably one of them is a fave of yours.

A few pictures ~




Wearing it with my TNT sleeveless white 
shirt made earlier this year!

This picture illustrates why I should stand up straight!

Wearability Factor ~
I wore this to work and out to lunch with a sewing friend this week. I dressed it down with sneakers and a ponytail and even then someone at work mentioned how dressed up I looked! LOL! I'm just not winning that one. However, since I made the jacket from ponte, it was very comfortable to wear. My other two makes include an outerwear jacket and a special events jacket


Conclusion ~
This is my third version of this jacket and I still haven't made it the way it appears on the pattern envelope! I think that's why I like the pattern so much ~  because of it's possibilities. I did check on the website and this pattern is now out of print. Which is sad because it's a great pattern to take creative journeys.  The pattern is still on the website if you want one. I'd like to use this pattern to make a few more everyday jackets, so expect to see it again.

The other thing I really liked about constructing this jacket was the details. All those extra special things really made the sewing fun. This is the type of sewing that makes me happiest. I can sew a quick project but it's not what makes my creative being sing. Give me a sewing challenge, throw in as many elements as possible to end up with a cohesive and unique garment and I'm happy. I was very happy making this jacket! *LOL*

This was the last garment I made during my Thanksgiving Break and my favorite make of the bunch. It was also the most intensive. I honestly didn't think I would get it finished in time to be photographed during the last session with my daughter. I'm glad I did. 

There is one more garment left from the photos, the Rivermont Top. It will be up next. The last of the "Border Print Series" shirts will be on the blog after that. 

...as always more later!







22 comments:

  1. It’s a beautiful jacket and looks gorgeous on you!

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  2. I thought I fell in love with this in your previous post. But, now I’m really in love with all the detail. Love this!

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  3. I loved this jacket the second I laid eyes on it, when it appeared in the previous post. Your jacket is better than the inspirational piece.

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  4. Fabulous jacket Carolyn!! Love, love love all the little details you added.

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    1. Thanks Lisa - it was a wonderful project to sew...the details just added to the fun!

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  5. This is a fabulous jacket, and can be dressed up OR down! The inside is as beautiful as the outside :-)

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  6. It's so flattering on you. Can you share how you attached the lace? I have lots of vintage lace but am "a-scared" to attempt it!

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    1. I also think the hong kong finish with the patterned tape is such a wonderful touch. Have you ever tried one of the binding maker tools or machine attachments?

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    2. Martha - believe it or not but the lace was sewn on completely by sewing machine. I took my time and used a wide zig zag stitch. The lace for both the collar and hems is pretty dense so the zig zag stitching just sunk into it. However, before I went with this method I did make a quick sample to see if I liked it!

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  7. Beautifully done. All your special Carolyn-touches really elevate to your vision and then some.

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  8. I do love a good Hong Kong finish. Great jacket and it's very 'you'. I do hope that you continue to be true to yourself at work even if some people think you are very dressed up. Compared to what you wore in your corporate life this is pretty casual, or just more creative. I love that you used the ponte for more than a cardigan. Comfortable and chic.

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    1. Nancy - I've been there 3 years now and I think the job I do speaks for itself so when I dress a little better no one thinks anything of it now. However, I do love having the ability to roll out of the bed in the morning and put on whatever I want and head off to work! *smile*

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  9. HI Carolyn. I think you "being extra again" is what makes it extra-special, extra-beautiful, and most of all extra-inspiring, I always come away from reading your posts all revved up to get going in my own sewing practice, Thank you so much for that,

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  10. This looks elegant and chic. Its the type of thing you could wear with a pencil skirt and look "dressed up" or with leggings or jeans and look classically casual.

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  11. Beautiful jacket! I agree with you. I love sewing items with lots of details too!

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  12. Yesterday I made a quick sweater knit jacket/cardigan (McCalls 6208). I wanted to finish the facing edges but didn't have any goes-with bias tape. After seeing your beautiful finish, I am gonna haveta go back and add bias tape now, otherwise, it just won't be as great as it was meant to be (and I pretty much love it now). Thanks for the kick in the butt!

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    1. I'm glad that you were inspired to finish your jacket edges. It's a beautiful finish and I'm sure your jacket looks amazing now.

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  13. So fantastic! The ponte makes it comfy/cozy and allows it to be dressed down but you could totally wear this over a sheath or dressy skirt for a party or dinner or something.

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  14. The lace is so right... it is just magic!

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    1. Thanks Mimi! I have loads left because I bought it when M&J was cleaning out the basement of their original store. I bought quite a few trims from that sale. The lace on these hems was just $10 for the entire piece. MAGIC!

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  15. Wow, the lace trim just elevates this jacket into something special.

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