Sunday, December 08, 2013

Doublesided wool crepe & double knit wools

I love fabric.  Everyone knows this and I have photographic evidence of that adoration here on the blog.  Lately, I've fallen in love with these two fabric types ~ doublesided wool crepe and double knit wools.  I've used the doublesided wool crepe before in this dress...

...and recently in the new Vogue 1370 dress...both were purchased from Moods NYC store...

I have a couple of additional pieces of both fabric types in the collection...

Green merino wool double knit, honey beige doublesided wool crepe, 
and red merino wool double knit, all from Fabric Mart

...I just recently added this one also from Fabric Mart which has them on sale for Premium Members now for 30% off.  Can I talk a little about the fact that the stretch goes from selvedge to selvedge on this piece?  I personally love this because when cutting out pattern pieces, it puts the stretch going around my body in the finished garment. This is exactly where I need the stretch, rather than having it going lengthwise, because it expands where my body parts expand...if you know what I mean.

Now you know I'm a Talbots girl. Their selection of businesswear works for my corporate lifestyle.  I even like that they have an extensive plus size section, for those that don't sew or who maybe want to purchase a piece or two.  In their current selection, there's this dress and jacket which, of course, I want to make for my wardrobe.

Both the doublesided wool crepe and double knit wools wear well.  They look professional all day.  They sew well, press easily and they are my new favorite fabrics.  I would say that right now I love sewing with them as much as I do ponte knits, so expect to see more of them here.

A quick definition of these fabrics...

Double-faced or Doublesided fabrics 
These fabrics have two attractive faces but cannot be separated into two layers...they are woven with four sets of yarn that move back and forth between layers.

Double knit fabrics
Are medium to heavy weight machine knit fabric, made with two sets of needles so that both sides look the same (when there is no pattern design). Fabric  has little or no stretch and holds it shape well.

(These descriptions are from Claire Schaeffer's Fabric Sewing Guide - 2nd Edition - published in 2008)

Ponte knits 
A great description of the fabric and how to use it can be found here on Emmaonesock's website.  These fabric guides were written by Kathryn Brenne.

I know that many women don't need to dress in the same type of professional/corporate clothing that I wear but these fabrics work great for a cute little jacket or a pencil and/or straight skirt not just the dresses I love. If you get the chance to add some to your fabric collection, I highly recommend that you do so!  Periodically, I will be featuring on the blog other types of fabric that I love sewing with, along with where you can find them - these are just the first.

The pants and the first top are completed for the Crazy 8 wardrobe.  It's snowing here in NJ so no pics today...soon though! always more later!


  1. I appreciate when you discuss different fabrics. I am just getting back to apparel sewing and it is hard to find fabrics in person. Your information helps me make fabric choices online.

  2. So is the difference between a double knit wool and a ponte just the composition? Also what is a double sided crepe? Does that mean you can use either side? Thanks Carolyn!

  3. Oh my. You're really presenting me with a problem. I'm running out of superlatives when describing your creations. For the moment, consider this diagonal zip dress drooled over.

  4. This is why I love your blog. So much good info along with impeccable sewing. Ahhh.

    I'm new to sewing and still being cautious on fabric choices. I will try to scoop up some of these soon.

  5. I'm just getting back into fashion sewing after many years away and found your blog this weekend. Spent lots of hours looking over your fabulous projects. Thanks for all the info you are so generously giving your readers. I wish I could take you fabric shopping with me!

  6. Love these dresses. Especially the black and white one.

  7. Definitely good fabric choices. The ponte can also be used to make a jeans style pant like the ones available from Eileen Fisher.

  8. The green dress looks so lovely on you but then, so does everything you make to wear. You are a perfectionist and it is so obvious in the end result. Bravo. Thanks for the explanation about the differences in the knits. Much appreciated.

  9. I love your fabrics! I just recently fell in love with wool crepe, but haven't felt any double faced fabric yet. I will have to add that to my list! You look chic and lovely, btw. :)

  10. Thanks for posting such helpful information!

  11. love both of those fabrics, and of course the dresses are so beautiful

  12. I'm just waiting to see what you do with that new fabric. Looking forward to seeing lots and lots of great new stuff in 2014. Merry Christmas - Happy Kwanzaa - Happy New Years!


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