The backstory:
The second part of this outfit is a pair of pants from my TNT pants pattern. I know that many sewists try out several different patterns for pants, but since I've perfected a pants pattern that works, I just use it over and over again. I guess I should be more experimental but I want to have and wear the actual pants more than I want to experience fitting pants patterns over and over...call me quirky like that!
Although, this particular pair of pants is made a little differently from previously made pants because I have been experiencing a lot of "lining failure" recently. And it doesn't seem to matter what type of lining I'm using, whether it's cheap or expensive, the amount of walking and moving around that I do is causing the fibers to fail...shred...fall apart! I even tried interfacing the inner thigh of the lining but it stiffens the lining in a way that I don't like...and the lining shredded around the interfaced section.
So I remembered Lauralo's post on a new way to underline pants and I thought I would try it. Of course, I shortcutted it...*sigh*...didn't I just post that I would take my time... But, I thought that I would just serge the lining to the fashion fabrics and treat both as one especially since I want to use this as my trial pair against lining failure.
I do have a pair of ivory microfiber pants that I treated in this manner and I haven't had any problems with the lining. I think I'm experiencing lining failure because the two fabrics are rubbing against each other, not working together...so if this works...I will take the time to use the proper method to underline.
Okay, some stats:
Fabric:
2.5 yards of rayon/wool crepe blend from Fabric Mart
Notions:
elastic
seam tape
Pattern:
TNT pants pattern
No interesting construction techniques...this is a fall back pattern...guaranteed to work in all fabrications...and even though I have it in several leg widths, I used the smaller leg width for these because both jackets are loose fitting. I say jackets because it works with the Fleece Jacket as well as the Coldwater Creek jacket. I love when that happens...more options for wearing!
Next up...a dress and a cardigan! I will do a photo shoot once the sewing weekend is over...right now I primed and ready to sew and don't want to take the time to do hair, make-up and get dressed...*LOL*
I think you were wise to handle the lining the way you did this time. I, too, had lining failures when I sewed lined pants for my mother. (I was her seamstress.) When we began treating the 2 fabrics as one fabric, our success rate was exceedingly higher!
ReplyDeleteBeautiful pieces. Enjoy them.
Thanks for telling us about what you're doing to address the issue of lining failure. I've never had that happen to me, but I'll be interested to see how your underlining works out. Your jacket is beautiful, of course, and it's great that you're able to mix and match it already!
ReplyDeleteThat's a great solution for lining pants. I'm going to try it with my next pair as I don't like the way pants slip around on the lining and I think your solution will help. I love the caramel houndstooth fabric of your jacket. I have a large quantity of a much smaller caramel houndstooth in a coat weight wool blend of some sort that I don't even remember buying, much less what the fabric content actually is. Your jacket has inspired me to drag it out and try something for winter. Thanks for inspiring me yet again!!
ReplyDeleteHello I'm linking to you in a soon to-be-published post...
ReplyDeleteIf I had a pants pattern I would make it over and over too. So glad that you are sewing again. Love the the first outfit. You will be warm at work on any given Monday. g
ReplyDeleteYea, the underlining is so worth it. The fashion fabric drapes better and it extends the life of the garment. Nice job!
ReplyDeleteI'm gaining a new respect for underlining. It's an option I often forget about; and I shouldn't.
ReplyDeletebeautiful, what a fabulous job Carolyn
ReplyDeleteBeautiful outfit (s). I'm so glad you mojo came back so quickly, thanks for the idea about the lining. I've done it, and I do like it better, not like another pair of pants swishing around under there! K
ReplyDeleteInteresting bit about the lining. I hope this works - let us know. I find that skirt linings sometimes shred, too, in pencil skirts due to strain. This might work for those, too.
ReplyDeleteLooks like you've done a great job and these even do double duty!
About linings, SB says to sew them with 1/2" seams instead of 5/8 because they never stretch as much as the outer fabric and this contributes to lining failure. I have an old Threads magazine that details an Armani pair of pants and the front is underlined to past the knee. Wouldn't work for me in some wools as this would be too itchy, but an interesting technique.
ReplyDeleteI wholeheartedly agree with you about the tnt pants. I have mine in several leg widths and waistline variations. I too see no reason to reinvent the wheel. I spent enough time achieving a great fit. I am perfectly capable of copying details from other patterns.
Your outfit looks great. Hope the lining experience works out for you.
ReplyDeleteGreat outfit, and was surprised to read the jacket is a fleece.
ReplyDeleteThe lining for the pants sounds like a good idea.
I love the fleece jacket and coordinated pants. I am very excited that I now own the vogue pattern that is your tnt. I love those cardigan style jackets. Even though I am not getting any sewing time presently, this pattern is in my future. The custom garments fit you so nicely- makes me want to toss all my rtw things when I get back to the sewing room eventually. Nice work Carolyn! mssewcrazy
ReplyDeleteDon't apologize for using a TNT or serging. Tany just recently finished a shirt inside by serging - if it is good enough for her, it is good enough for us mere mortals...lol. And reusing a TNT pants pattern just makes sense. Especially if you don't tuck tops in! This mini wardrobe in coming along so well. The jacket looks so smart and the pants are perfect. Let us know how the new lining works out!
ReplyDeleteThat is a fabulous ensemble and Thank You for the underlining for pants technique.
ReplyDeleteInteresting post on addressing the lining failure issue. please let us know how it works out. Nice lining technique anyway. I usually make my lining slightly bigger than the original piece, and treating the two fabrics as one would do the same thing as the inside fabric would have just a tiny smidge extra due to the turning.
ReplyDeleteGreat details. Having a TNT pants pattern is the best thing.
What a well thought out outfit! I love the way you lined the pants, serging the lining and fabric together!! You are a genious!
ReplyDeleteWow, this is really lovely! And I love the Chanel touch of the outfit.
ReplyDelete