Friday, January 04, 2013

Pleasant Purple Dress & Jacket - The Idea

This inspired my next piece...

I originally saw it in a Lord & Taylor ad.  Of course I cut out the ad and of course I also misplaced it.  The original ad was well photographed and immediately made me think of Vogue 8815.  You know that top that just everyone is making...there's already 28 reviews of it at Patternreview.  It's one of those patterns that looks good on all body types so of course I added it to my must sew list.

I had all intentions of making it as a top but seeing this jacket/dress combo, I knew V8815 would work for this project.  So I'm using an eggplant wool blend that came with the interfacing attached.

Fabric backed with a tricot interfacing

Front view of the fabric

Of course to turn it into the garment I wanted, I made several pattern alterations to morph it from a top into a jacket pattern.

Pattern Alterations:

The front bodice piece ~

  • The front top had a side dart added to it by using my dress front as a basis to change the dart.
  • The space for the front dart was incorporated into the piece.  The bottom of the pattern piece was straightened out.
  • Then 2" plus the 5/8" seam allowance was added to the front so that I would have a button front closure.

The front peplum ~

Added 3.5"to the center front of the peplum to accommodate the dart that was removed from the hemline.

Then added another 2" to the front for the button closure and 5/8" for the seam allowance.

The two pattern pieces together...

Back piece ~ 
The dart was left as part of the pattern and I used the center back seam for shaping.  No other changes at all were made to this piece.

The back peplum ~
1.5" added to the back of the peplum pattern piece that will be cut on the fold. Ooops once I typed that I realized that I don't want a center back seam on the back peplum so I removed 5/8" from the center back for the seam since I'm cutting it on the fold.

Now here's the conundrum...
I hate making muslins.  At this point, a sane sewist would not cut her good fabric but would find a comparable fabric and make a muslin.  To be honest, I've gone back and forth over whether I should make one...and I really believe that if I did so, that I would never make the final jacket.  I'm just not built to make 2 or 3 unwearable pieces to get the proper fit on a pattern.  It's why I use a pattern so many times.  I'm constantly adjusting the fit with each new garment.  This is not the common wisdom of these sewing times and I realize that I'm bucking against that trend.  But I know me.  I know how I like to sew...and after 43 years of practicing my craft, I'm gonna go with works for me.

Okay so that's where I'm at, taking a deep breathe and taking my shears to the fabric, hoping for the best!  However, I do have extra fabric so if I need to recut or scrap the idea totally, I can still make the dress. I'm fine with whichever way it goes because sewing is always an adventure right?

This may be strange but I'm actually finding that I'm enjoying sewing more when I make one of these involved pieces...and this sewcation has been all about the involved piece.  Probably why my output has been so low but instead of the frustration I felt during my last sewcation, this one has been creatively fulfilling. always more later!


  1. Love this idea.....what's not to love? This is the second time I have read of fabric with the interfacing already fused to the piece. Have you used this before? Am I a dinosaur or is this something new? What's your take on it?

  2. I also have never heard/seen this type of fabric in the past. It must be handy to have it all as one piece to sew with...

  3. It's obviously going to be lovely! I had to laugh, though, when you explained why your "output has been so low"! Low output is a dress or two a year, not a dress or two a week!

  4. Cut away! I'll be crossing my fingers for you!

  5. Looking forward to seeing this one on you. Love the fabric and the idea of it already having the interfacing added. I suppose this is something we can easily do ourselves if we can't find fabric that already has it attached. I love the color of this fabric too and I think it will look great on you :)

  6. Great jacket. Love the style of it. I find it hard to make muslins too but I have to persevere as I don't have your experience. What I do is do one in a lovely material so I can wear it if it turns out - but not the best material. Oh I pray for the day I can cut into the good material first.

  7. Why not fly without a net? It's only fabric after all! If sewing was a grind and no fun, you wouldn't do it. You have a stash full of amazing fabric and closet full of gorgeous clothes. The worst case scenario, a total wadder is something you could handle in your stride. Of course, I really doubt this will be a wadder.

  8. As always, enjoying your thought processes on sewing. Must admit, I am with you on making a muslin. Just don't have the patience--same reason I don't knit socks. Afraid I will lose interest on the second one.

  9. I almost never do a muslin. Like you to make one or two of them takes away from the real thing and drives me over the edge most of the time. I have done them but most of the time I go with an idea. I do the pin fitting thing using Palmer/Pletsch techniques and that works 98% of the time.

    I know you do the flat measurement method and has worked IMHO for you so well. So take a deep breath and go for it! You are great a salvaging potentially garments gone wrong so you already have a plan B.

    I look forward to seeing the finished garment.

  10. I'm with you on muslins. I never do them. It's so much more fun to jump in with both feet.

    I can't wait to see what you get!

  11. Since I have so many fitting issues I always make a muslin for new patterns that don't correlate with my TNTs. It's not a process I enjoy but find it necessary. I spent yesterday making 2 muslins for a new pattern before I had achieved success. Thanks for sharing your process as I check your blog daily!

  12. This is going to make a fabulous jacket and the fabric is so rich. And honestly - I'm with you on making muslin over and over. I've recently made multiple muslins of 2 different patterns and neither has been sewn in something I can wear out of the house yet and I honestly don't know if it will happen. Frustrating because I really like the design lines of both patterns. :) g

  13. Your idea for the purple jacket looks like another winner! I know what you mean about muslins. I fitted a muslin that's still in the closet. I was tired of it and never made the actual jacket. Thanks for the tips in your last post. My plans for my dress are still going around in my head. I'm too short for all those horizontal lines. I have to do some thinking instead of just copying.

  14. Pre-backed fabric?!?! Amazing! What a timesaver!

  15. I don't do a full wearable muslin; I do a quick 1/2 pattern in junk cotton to test the part I'm worried about fitting or executing. It doesn't take a lot of time and stuff shows up that you didn't think about in the abstract.
    I also find a challenge piece much more fulfilling that churning out volume apparel that is the same garment only in different fabric; I like to stretch and exercise my skills.

  16. You are so good at spotting inspiration, applying that to a pattern and then making items. I am in awe of this talent, let alone your sewing skills! I can honestly say that I have only ever made two muslins - and they were for potential wedding dresses (I ended up buying it anyway though). Muslins work for some people, but take a lot of enjoyment (not to mention precious time) away from it for me. I reckon you'll "make it work" should it, on the off chance, start to go pear shaped. Enjoy the adventure!

  17. You have had a very productive sewcation. I can't wait to see the end results. I like what I'm seeing so far.


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