Friday, June 28, 2019

A Spring Brocade Dover Jacket

I honestly thought I wouldn't be making another Dover Jacket until summer when I would be trying a Dover Dress.  However, this fabric I purchased from Metro Textiles had different ideas! I also thought that by June I wouldn't be able to wear it out and about but we shot these photos in mid-June on a 70 degree day. It was just fine.


Supplies ~
3 panels of border print brocade from Metro Textiles
Tie fabric for bias binding
Interfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller
5 - 7/8" Covered buttons from stash for jacket buttons

Construction ~
The only difference between this jacket and all my others is that I decided to bind the jacket edges using a Hong Kong finish. I need to insert a why here?  Because I did not seriously consider how many seams there are in this jacket and how much time it would take if I was going to bind them all.



Of course once I started I HAD to bind all the seams. That decision added HOURS to the construction of the jacket...seriously HOURS! So between the pattern matching and the bias binding, I "coutured" a very easy jacket. 


Neck deep in I also decided to use covered buttons for the jacket. Which meant I didn't have to dig through the stash to find a button that coordinated or end up hitting the Garment District to find one that worked. Using the flip side of the brocade fabric meant I ended up with a covered button that matched my fabric. It was a good decision because I love how the buttons look when the jacket is closed.

(laying the covered buttons on the jacket front
color is off - picture below is so much better!)




A few photos of the jacket ~





Okay this isn't the most attractive shot but I loved
 how the wind caught the jacket and showed the fabric's pattern

This is a "fancy" jacket to wear over jeans but with our touch and go weather, I should get a few wears in before the hot weather comes. I will use this pattern again as a jacket come fall because I wear a lot of layers in the winter.

...as always more later!





18 comments:

  1. This is absolutely one of my all time favorites! I love love love it! The Hong Kong finishing is beautiful as is the entire finished jacket! You are amazing!

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  2. Beautiful jacket, brilliantly done!

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  3. The jacket is BEAUTIFUL but oh my gosh that binding!!!!!

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  4. Carolyn, The jacket looks fantastic! I know the Hong Kong finishing took almost as long as it took to make the jacket, but it takes it up five notch in the "OMG it's beautiful". Well done, my sew sister, well done.

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  5. It was worth all the extra work. It's fabulous!

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  6. Hi, beautiful jacket. Where do you get the pattern?

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    Replies
    1. Here: https://www.bluedotpatterns.com/store/p26/New_Dover_Jacket%21_-_PDF_Sewing_Pattern_includes_Copy_Shop_File.html

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  7. You look beautiful in your jacket!! It is well finished, and fits you like a dream!

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  8. The finished edges make the inside so pretty! It's a very nice jacket.

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  9. I'd be tempted to wear the jacket inside out just because the seams are so gorgeous and contrasting!!!! Using brocade can be tricky with its thicker nature and shine but you made this work so well! And covered buttons...they just say, "yeah I made them and it was worth it".

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  10. I really like the high low bodice, the raglan sleeve and the neckline (it's in a good spot). I love how you show how to take a fantastic piece of fabric and "couture" a simple design, truly making it your own. I can see this being a TNT. Also thanks for showing how it can work in all weights of fabric.

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  11. Gorgeous! I really like all the versions of this jacket pattern!

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  12. Looks really nice! I love the Hong Kong finish, even though it took forever!

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  13. Wow..........do you have a great eye for design!!

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  14. That is a beautiful jacket. What brand of covered buttons do you use?

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    Replies
    1. Jax - I bought a gross in the garment district about 15 years ago and that's what I used for this jacket. However, I have used the Dritz Covered Button kits and they work just fine.

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