Saturday, July 25, 2020

An Embroidered Sleeve Shirt

I don't normally sew shirts in the summer because it's too dayum hot to be wearing a lot of layers.  But work from home Carolyn, sits in air conditioning every day...plus the sewing cave is extra cold what with air conditioning and being underground.


Some days I grab a shirt and a pair of leggings to work in. The other day I had to run an errand during the middle of the day, so I grabbed the QVC Denim Shirt and my white denim leggings to wear. When I got home I wore them for the rest of the day and they were perfect for the Zoom meeting I had later that afternoon.

So when I saw this tunic on JJill, I knew I owned a piece of embroidered shirting to reproduce it.



Actually I only used the sleeve idea from the tunic, matching it with the pattern pieces I used on the QVC denim shirt. I wanted more of a shirt than a loose tunic. There are no construction changes for this one. 

The challenge was to use my fabric to it's best advantage to make the shirt I saw in my head. I've had this piece from Chic Fabrics for a minute (longer than a year but not more than two). I've pulled it out multiple times to use but the fabric and idea never worked well together. So back in the fabric collection it would go. Pattern placement was the key to making this shirt work.



Supply List ~
3 yards of embroidered striped shirting from Chic Fabrics
10 white buttons from Nancy's Notions in PA
Interfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller
20" of 1/4" elastic from the notions collection

The best thing about this supply list is that everything was already in the sewing cave. Yeah, I'm throwing in that justification for my overstuffed sewing cave every chance I can get! *LOL* Believe me I'm not complaining because all of this stuff was comforting and allowed me to sew when we were quarantined.

A Few Pictures ~




While this is a comfortable and easy shirt to wear, the polyester in it makes it more a three season shirt than four. I was definitely warm taking pictures outside today. However, it does fit perfectly in my shirt wardrobe and will be worn at home or when the weather cools a little.

I love how by just changing the pattern pieces from my TNT shirt pattern that I've got a really cute shirt to wear. This is how I like to sew. It's the perfect example of what I meant in my previous post.  Expect to see more of this type of sewing!


...as always more later!


 

Friday, July 24, 2020

So What's Next?

If you follow me over on Instagram, you know after the murder of George Floyd, I became active with the Black Makers Matter Group. I also wrote a blog post on the Sewcialist blog about how it feels to be a black maker in the sewing community. If you've followed me for any amount of time, you know I've been quite vocal over the years about how the pattern companies and sewing community treats black makers.

Along with BMM's boycott of JoAnn's, Hobby Lobby and Michaels, I'm also boycotting the Big 4 pattern companies. I've railed against them over the years for various reasons and after supporting them with my precious dollars for 50 years, I'm done. Don't worry, this isn't going to turn into another post railing against them. This is a post to say that I own hundreds of patterns from the 60s/70s through present day so I don't need to purchase another one. I'm no longer a customer.

I will use the patterns I already own because they're mine.  Also because the Big4 pattern companies don't celebrate you when you don't use the latest and greatest it's not like I'm encouraging you to spend money with them. Because of this my blog titles will no longer have pattern numbers in the titles. I know this will make them harder to search on Google but right now I don't care. I may change my mind on this later. I reserve the right to do so but for now no more pattern company names and numbers in the titles.

I will also no longer tag the Big 4 pattern company's name, numbers and/or names on my Instagram posts. Pattern numbers will be included in blog posts and even if they're still in the pattern catalog, I won't link to them.

My sewing going forward will emphasize what I already own. Fabric that is presently in the sewing cave, patterns that live here and the notions that I have. That's not to say I'm not going to add more notions or trim because sometimes I NEED something I don't have...can we say pink buttons! 


I will be sewing more interpretations or "inspired by" garments. I love making these garments, the challenge of figuring out how to use a pattern I presently own, matching it to a fabric in my collection and picking trims/notions to make the design work really ignites my passion to sew. I haven't done much of that recently because I was redetermining my style. However, I'm coming back around to that so there will be more garments like the QVC Denim Shirt and the Lafayette 148 Maxi Dress.


I have a notebook full of ideas and a ton of fabric (LOL!) so that's what's next in my sewing journey!


...as always more later!

Tuesday, July 21, 2020

A Stripey Linen Maxi Dress

I knew I was going to make a couple more versions of Simplicity 8888 when I made the first one.  However, I thought the next one would be a solid version but me being me I went with a stripe. Why? Because I wanted to manipulate the stripes on the bodice...


Fabric journeys enthrall me. I love how if you cut the fabric on the bias or the cross grain it gives the fabric and the final garment a totally different look. So I love taking those journeys...and that's what this dress is all about. I mean besides the comfort and ease of wearing factor the dress provides.

Supplies ~
o  3 yards of a striped linen purchased from Fabric Mart - from the collection purchased in the last five years

o  22" orange invisible zipper from the notions collection

o  Remnant of orange bias binding for the armholes

Construction Techniques ~
This dress is all about manipulating the stripes. I really wanted to make them meet at the center front and then chevron through the side front and back panels. Well it didn't exactly meet at the front seam but it does seem to work in a weird way.


I cut the center front, front and back sides on the bias.  The center back is cut on the straight grain. I didn't want to deal with putting a zipper into a wavy back.


However, in the pictures of the back of the dress, it seems as if those side back pieces are poufing out a bit as I move around. Honestly I don't care and no one but a sewist would probably notice but "truth in sewing" here, folks! *LOL* If I realized they hung that way I probably would have done something different during construction.

The other thing to note is because I used mostly bias pieces for the top and the waist seam is heavy (full of gathering) I added some twill tape to stabilize that seam. I didn't want it growing and causing the dress to hang funny.

The inseam pockets were omitted from this version, not enough fabric to cut them out. All of the fabric in the skirt seemed to make the side slits featured in the pattern unnecessary.


Otherwise the construction is the same as the original Simplicity dress.

A Few Pictures ~ 





This one seems fuller with the drapier fabric than the original one does. Even though I was contemplating a solid version, I'm packing this pattern away for now. Two journeys with this pattern seems enough. 

When I took these pictures this morning at 9:30am, it was already hot and humid outside. With the amount of fabric in this dress, as well as the weight of the fabric, this is NOT a hot & humid kinda day dress. But 100 degree days don't happen much in the spring or late summer so it will be perfect then. 

I made this dress back in late April/early May when I thought I would be going back to the office this summer. Because of that it hasn't been worn except for these pictures and it probably won't be until next spring. I'm wearing the throw on dresses, Katie tops, Myosotis dresses and wide legged pants that work with my stay at home style since I won't be going back to NYC until the fall.

I've been pulling fabric to match with maxi dress patterns. Although I'm falling back on a couple of TNT patterns for my next two maxi dresses. I finally broke down and bought a 6 yard piece of fabric and just like I thought, I'd moved on by the time it arrived. Since I'm home there hasn't been a lot of fabric purchasing going on BUT a lot of digging in the fabric collection.

My sewjo is back. I'm sewing so more garments soon!


...as always more later!






Friday, July 17, 2020

Long V-Neck Maxi Dress

I follow Lafayette 148 on Instagram and this picture appeared in their feed. It immediately checked off all of my new work from home wardrobe requirements. It's loose-fitting, flowy, easy to wear and maxi length...wfh gold! 

On the days when I don't have any Zoom meetings, I just want to throw on something long and flowy to work in while sitting in front of my computer.  


If we go back to our offices in NYC, it will be in the fall. I won't need summer clothing at all. So I'm adjusting what I'm sewing again. May I state one more time - I don't really like wearing pants. I wear jeans in the winter because I don't want to be cold but if I lived in a more temperate climate, I would wear dresses and skirts ALL.THE.TIME!


To get this look I started with New Look 6340 which I've made several times. One of the things I want to do during this season is reuse some of the patterns that have been successful for me. I know we tend to be one time pattern users in the sewing community but I love a good TNT pattern. I just won't discuss my thoughts on how the one-use practice is pushed upon us by the Big 4.

Now my previous versions all used a different neckline. But luckily for me, there is a v-neck option in the pattern...so the only pattern alterations I needed to make were for length.


Okay I added a little more space to the side seams for more drama...

This maxi is made using a piece of mid-weight polyester print purchased from Fabric Mart back in the 1990's for $1 a yard. It means that this deep stash piece is about 30 years old. Also, I bought this in three colors. I gave two pieces away and this is the only one that remained in the collection. Guess it was time for it to be used!

I added an invisible zipper to the back of the dress to make it easier to step into it instead of pulling it over my head. A strip of interfacing was added to the back seams to stabilize the fabric before inserting the zipper. There is also navy blue piping added to the neckline of the dress...needed to bind that busy print off a little. The side seam pockets were also omitted.

Since this is a wearable muslin, I pressed, turned under and stitched the underarms. For my next version I will use bias binding to finish the armholes. 

A Few Pictures ~





As I said this is a wearable muslin because I needed to work a few construction and pattern alterations out. 

For my next version ~
o  I will lower the underarm seam. I traced the wrong seam line when making this version.
o  Remove some of the width of the dress below the hipline to the hemline so the pattern pieces will fit easily onto a piece of fabric without having to do a wedge insert. What I did to make the hemline work on this version.
o  A 1/2" will be added to the upper center back to give it a little more room.
o  1/4" was added to the front below the v-neckline. The bodice while wearable is tight.
o  Also removed 2" from the hemline because it was way too long.  

I would like to make 2-3 more of these because I love the comfort factor. This dress will work well in my present work from home wardrobe. If you have a copy of this pattern in your stash, I highly encourage you to pull it out and use it! 

...as always more later


  


Tuesday, July 14, 2020

Pink Posey Maxi Dress

Originally I purchased this shirting fabric to make a shirt.  However, when moving fabric around earlier this spring, I touched it. It really felt like it would work for my new comfortable work from home maxis which is quickly morphing into the seems like I'm never going back to work maxis.  It's a Riley & Co print I purchased from from the alt-right supposedly Christian craft store, back in the days when I shopped there.


I knew I had three yards of it just didn't realize it was so narrow especially after it was washed and dried. Which meant that I had to jump through hoops to make this pattern work. 

Supplies ~
3 yards cotton shirting
1/2 yard white cotton batiste from the collection
12 3/4" pink buttons purchased from Amazon
Pink gingham bias binding


Construction ~
This maxi was made exactly like the blue & white rayon one I made last summer.  So there are no new construction techniques. Since I've made it eightyhundred times, it went together quickly. The only difference is that it's shorter than my normal maxi dresses and that's because I ran out of fabric. I thought I would hate it but it's been perfectly fine. I may remember the length for future versions.

Unbelievably I had no pink buttons in the button stash!  If I was working in NYC, it wouldn't have been a problem...but making this during the pandemic proved challenging. So I turned to Amazon because the other online button sources were giving ship times of 3-4 weeks. I'm patient but NOT that patient!

As an aside, I now have way tooo many pink buttons. Besides the assortments I purchased from Amazon, a friend came through and now I have a really DEEP assortment of pink shirt buttons.

A Few Pictures ~




I keep saying that I'm going to let the pattern rest and then I turn around and make another dress. So I'm not going to say it again. I'm sure I will stumble upon another piece of fabric begging to become one and I will oblige it. Especially since this dress has become my summer wardrobe staple!

One more thing ~ 
I took these pictures myself and they're just okay. I'm not taking "glamour" shots because that's not really my life right now and I can't muster up the energy. Also, my "no wear" rule before I take pictures has gone completely out the window. This dress has been worn several times and even outside of my house before I finally got around to taking pictures of it.

Everything seems so different now. What once was important seems to lack some of it's vitality. I did manage to take pictures of one other dress (though there are still two in the backlog) and my sewjo has returned. I'm trying to find some comfort in sewing while adjusting to my new normal. 


...as always more later!





  

Sunday, July 05, 2020

The QVC Denim Shirt

How about a project post. Before everything went to hell in a hand basket, I made three new maxi dress projects - a short sleeve t-shirt dress, another hacked Myosotis dress, and a linen striped maxi dress (Simplicity 8888). 


I've worn them but not photographed any of them because I just haven't felt like it...so they still have to come to the blog.  

However, I was watching QVC at the end of April and saw a really cute shirt. It looked so much like my TNT shirt pattern that I thought I can make that...so I did. I'm sharing it on my dress form, Daphne, as I would wear it, because I still don't feel like taking pictures. 


This post though is more about how I took pieces of my TNT shirt patterns to get the look of the inspiration photo.

Here is the Inspiration Photo ~




Supplies ~
3 meters lightweight pinstripe denim that was in the collection
8 - 5/8" white buttons from the notions collection
20" of 1/4" elastic cut into 2 pieces of 10" elastic
Scraps of interfacing from the collection

Construction ~ 
Using my TNT shirt pattern with the back yoke and gathering is how I started this shirt journey. I've used this combination on numerous shirts because it gives me a looser fit on the back of the shirt while maintaining a more fitted shirt front.

For the front, I used my altered Vogue 8772 pattern fronts. I've changed it to remove the body darts, kept the bust darts and added some space to the front side seams. This shirt best showcases those changes, although I've used portions of this pattern in three other shirts. 

The change that reflects the inspiration picture the most is the sleeves. I made this change to my pattern by cutting 3/4 length sleeves instead of long sleeves. 


  • Then I added 3/4" seam allowances to the hemline. 
  • Stitched them closed leaving an opening to insert the elastic.
  • Inserted the elastic and stitched the seam allowance closed
  • To finish the shirt - buttons and buttonholes were added to the front 
  • Then a small 1/2" hemline was machine stitched down.
My shirt is tunic length instead of the hip length of the original version. This is a personal preference. Y'all know I like the coverage so that's how I interpreted the look.

One more thing ~ 
This shirt has a huge faded area right on the front of the shirt which I noticed when the fronts were first sewn together. The faded spot appears no where else on the shirt so it won't be worn out of the house. I also have a bad collar insertion that normally would bother the heck out of me. In this instance however, I'm letting it go...since this is technically a wearable muslin.


...I just wanted to finish the shirt and see if the design changes would work.

A Few Pictures of the Tunic on Daphne ~




Maybe I will get around to photographing this on me later and if so I will drop those pictures in this post...but I wouldn't count on it since this really is a wearable muslin. I have a piece of medium weight denim set aside that I will use to make another one for fall/winter.

BTW, I have stirrings of my sewjo returning with a few ideas of things to make. One of my challenges has been now I'm working from home and don't feel the same way about dressing every day that I did when I went out to work. When I'm feeling that way I realize that I have loads of garments to choose from everyday.

But a wise friend of mine told me that I don't sew because I need to...I sew because I want to. I sew for the creativity and that's what fulfills me. So I may work on another "Inspired By" sew since I'm boycotting the sewing chain stores and not buying patterns.


...as always more later!



Sunday, June 28, 2020

61 Years Being Black in America

I was watching commercials the other day and I was struck by two things...

One was a recycling commercial - and all I can think is that as a child we recycled everything.  Milk was delivered by the Milkman and we washed the bottles out, put them back in the steel box on the porch, and the Milkman took them when he delivered our new order.  This was in 1970.  We were given paper bags when we shopped at the supermarket, unless we shopped in a small store.  Then we took our own cloth bags. Arts and crafts at school were done with recycled coffee cans, toilet paper & paper towel rolls and popsicle sticks that we washed off and brought to school.

Recycling is not new.

Another commercial was about black people using black businesses. I had a black pediatrician when I was a little girl.  My recollection is that white doctors didn't really mess with black people. I remember having to be courteous and well behaved as a little girl when we went to the white people's pharmacy.  My mother insisted we use that one because she was a nurse at the local hospital and knew they had the most current drugs.  The corner store was run by a black man.  I got my hair done at the black beauty parlor and I went to an all black church.

Most of my dealings were with black businessmen when I was little because integration hadn't really taken place yet...and I was raised in the Northeast.

I was called a nigger at 5 years old.  I knew white people were different and lived different lives from black people because it was constantly pushed in my face. My kindergarten teacher was amazed that I was well spoken and could read, that my Mother read to us at night before bed and wasn't a domestic. I grew up in the Northeast.

I was never told I was pretty for a black girl.  You know why?  Because I was a light-skinned little black girl with long brown hair in braids to my waist. White people appreciated that I looked more like them...other darker black skin people not so much.  But that's a different tale for a different day.

When my parents bought a home in a predominately white neighborhood, one by one the houses on the block were sold by the white families. In two years, my entire block was black. The next block was mixed for probably the next five years. They made it harder for black folks to buy houses on that part of the block. By the time I graduated from high school there were only two white families still living there.

I was ten when they burned a cross on a black family's lawn three blocks from my house. And I was eleven when New Jersey made integration mandatory in towns, so I was bused to middle school to make the town racially balanced. BTW, the white kids left in my area, walked to school. I WAS bused thirty minutes away. The only good thing about it was that we were bused to a brand new school.

In high school I was pretty popular with my peers and their parents. But in my sophomore year our town experienced race riots at our high school. I was on one of three buses of ALL black children trying to leave the campus. We were surrounded by white parents who shouted, spit on us and called us every racial epitaph but a child of God. It was 1975. I was a sophomore in high school and some of those very parents had complimented me for a drama club performance not two weeks before.

I lived in a predominantly white town in New Jersey in 1975.

I won't even begin to detail the micro and macro-aggressions that occurred as I started working.  Things other black friends and family members had a hard time with because they'd grown up in predominantly black towns and went to black colleges. I thought I knew white people having lived with, gone to school and college with them, but even I was surprised sometimes by the racism, cronyism and downright ignorance.

All this to say, I haven't been sewing.  The news still feels like a foot on my chest and I'm having the hardest time breathing. I'm actually relieved that I don't have go to work every day because being the only black person at my firm, I don't have to act like this shit doesn't bother me each and every day. That I'm not constantly worrying for my black sons, grandsons and my brother.

Wearing my mask on NJTransit 
(public transportation) headed to NYC

...let's not add Corvid-19 into the mix and how it's rearing it's head everywhere people think it's a political decision to wear a f*cking mask! A MASK - that protects not only others but yourself from catching a life-threatening disease.

My sewing is stifled by all of the things occurring around me. Now I take responsibility for letting this affect me. However, I'm STILL not capable of sewing garments and taking pictures to share on social media while the world seems to be going to hell. So my blog sits dormant. I've bought no fabric. I've sworn off Hobby Lobby, Michaels & Joann's and the NYC Garment District just opened for business with social distancing last week. Although, I'm still working from home for the next couple of months...

This is where I'm at...maybe there will be more sewing later in the month. Maybe there won't be...

...as always more later!  








Saturday, June 13, 2020

A Personal Note...

It's been over three weeks since I've posted to my blog because the events currently going on in the United States have TOTALLY overwhelmed me. While I've expressed my rage on my Instagram account, I've basically ignored my blog because it's easier to repost than to actually sit down and describe my anger, hurt, anguish and pain.

As we all know, George Floyd was murdered on May 25th. The civil unrest both in the US and globally, the subsequent self-examination of a segment of the white population in America and the protesting that's happened, has consumed me. I've felt mostly rage...too much rage to speak as I normally do here in calm tones.

So I've remained quiet in this space. I wrote a blog post for The Sewcialists because it felt like the right place to rage against the injustices that are done to black makers in our crafting communities...and even after I wrote it I had nothing to say here.

In all honesty I still don't. So I'm going to direct you to two black bloggers who spoke more eloquently about this than I can at this moment - Renee (Miss Celie's Pants) wrote this. Then Elaine (lanieemakes) wrote this.

Following and reporting on the tepid and half-ass responses of the major sewing machine companies, the craft store, that alt-right supposedly Christian craft store, and the pattern company that's been bought for the third time in 3 years and wondering why they're losing market share has eaten away at my desire to sew.  So sewing has been pushed to the bottom of my list and I'm clawing to restore it to the top.

This time I've chosen not share my feelings cause dayum if you don't understand by now, it doesn't matter what I type here, you're not changing your mind, your attitudes, or your practices.

I'm closing the comments. This is NOT a conversation.  This is a place holder post ~ just like the pandemic caused a pre and post Corvid reality so did the murder of George Floyd. Which side of history are you standing on because things are changing...Yes, times are a 'changin!

I don't know when I will be back with new makes...because suddenly it doesn't seem important anymore. But hey, if getting back to normal is your jam, just avoid this space for a minute... 



Sunday, May 24, 2020

Are you buying patterns?

I'm asking because I haven't bought new patterns from either the Big 4 or the Indie Pattern companies in months. A little of it is the pandemic (cause I did want three of the new Simplicity patterns) and the fact that in my area all of the fabric stores are closed and I'm avoiding Walmart! Way too many people in Walmart for my comfort.

The other part is except for some Friday Pattern Company styles, there's been nothing I really wanted from the Big 4 or Indie pattern makers. I've been a faithful purchaser of patterns from the Big 4 for the last 40 years. So I own a TON of patterns. I even have a good collection of recent Indie patterns like FPC, Cashmerette, True Bias, Sew Liberated and Grainline Studio. I don't own any of the indie PDF pattern companies...cause PDF.

Never mind the vintage patterns (60s and 70s) I've collected, as well as, the older Indie Patterns, I bought in the 80s. There is a lot of pattern goodness stashed in the sewing cave.

While I understand why the pattern companies continue to churn out patterns, I'm not buying. One ~ because I no longer believe I'm their target customer. Two ~ because if I really look in the pattern collection I probably already own something like it. Now I know it seems if the online sewing community thrives on being able to use the same pattern you've sewn, however, this is no longer my journey.

My birthday is in a few days and I realized that I will be 70 in 9 years.  I need to rethink how I'm allocating my resources especially since my sewing cave is fully loaded. The pandemic has proven that to me. I need to settle into the items I've collected and use them. I possess the skills to make alterations to patterns so they look up-to-date. Then there are the hundreds of patterns I own that are still current but unused.

So I'm not buying new patterns.  Are you?  And if so, Indie or Big4 or a combination of both? The pandemic has really done a number on our ability to acquire supplies that we need to sew, so I'm wondering, are you buying patterns?  This is the Question of the Day so talk back to me.

New makes are up next on the blog, I promise! LOL!


...as always more later!





Thursday, May 21, 2020

Quarantine Week 10 - Thursday

Well it's Thursday again and it's my 10th Thursday in Quarantine.  Yeah I'm not calling it staying at home anymore...this is Quarantine! *LOL*  Though the news is starting to get better in the NJ/NY/CT area, however, not well enough to allow things to go back to "normal."  However, I don't even know what that means anymore...

Anyway, it's also the start of Memorial Day weekend and I'm on vacation until next Wednesday.  Yes, even though I'm working from home, we've been encouraged to take vacation days so here I am.

Since I'm not an outdoors kinda girl, opening the beaches means nothing to me...although weather wise it's gonna be cool for most of the weekend and a little rainy...but I guess if you're stir crazy at home...it is an alternative. Me, I'm going to sleep later, read some and sew some. I don't have any specific sewing plans. I'm going to let the fabric talk to me. 

In the meantime...

I've been working on another version of Simplicity 8888, using a striped linen from the collection.



It's almost finished - just needs facings. So pictures probably early next week due to weather.


And, do you listen to the Love To Sew Podcast?  This week's podcast is called Sew Inspired about who inspire sewists.  Helen and Caroline share the sewists that inspire them then they list sewists who have been inspired by other sewists.  That was a lot of sewists, smile! 



I'm thrilled to have been mentioned by my fellow sewists. There's also a link to the podcast I did with Helen and Caroline in October 2018. Since we have time on our hands, maybe have a listen. This is the 146th podcast and there are so many interesting small business sewists and sewing figures in the community that have been interviewed. Not to mention podcasts about sewing techniques and fabrics. So go, have a listen, enjoy!

Me...I'm going to be finishing up this dress and working on a couple more garments. If you're in the US, I hope you enjoy the Memorial Day weekend and stay safe out there! 


...as always more later!







Saturday, May 16, 2020

Trying not to own all the fabric!

I recently placed a fabric order with StyleMaker Fabrics for two pieces of fabric...


I've sewn the only lemon fabric I had ~ making this dress last summer.  The rosy piece caught my eye because it's precious and honestly I don't have anything like this in my fabric collection.

Earlier this spring, I purchased two border print pontes - cause border print and ponte...

BTW this is ponte still on Fabric Mart's site!

I also purchased a panel cotton voile and a rayon black and floral...


I've been on a maxi dress sew and I thought these would make amazing maxi dresses. I've also really wanted to make this dress - Simplicity 9041:


...and finally this Vogue 9253.


Yes I'm one of the last people to make this dress...

My challenge is that both dresses are fabric hogs.  The S9041 takes 5.5 yds of 60" wide fabric and the V9253 takes 5 yards of 60" wide fabric. Lately the most I've purchased is 4 yards for a single piece. I own only 3 pieces of 5 yard pieces of fabric and I'm concerned that I will go crazy and purchase several pieces of 6 yard pieces for them to sit on my shelves.  

I mean I own a lot of fabric...

This was when I was pulling fabric to share with a friend

...and I'd really like to make some maxi dresses that don't need a dozen buttons down the front!

So what's the point of this post...well I'm making plans and sewing but even with all of the fabric I own...I still need to buy more to make my sewing dreams come true.  Does anyone else ever feel this way? *sigh*

Okay, back to my sewing machine. I'm sewing a couple of maxi dresses using patterns that aren't fabric hogs. It will probably be a minute before these come to the blog because next weekend is Memorial Day weekend. While I am working from home during these quarantine times, I do have six days off...so Imma sew.  Sew to my heart's content!

...as always more later!



Tuesday, May 12, 2020

Starting with Simplicity 8888

We're going to have to start saying "Before Coronvirus" and "After Coronvirus" so BC2020 and AD2020 as abbreviations. BC2020 I bought several maxi dress patterns...actually probably some of the last Big4 patterns I purchased...and will purchase for awhile.  I've got issues with the pattern companies but we all know that so moving on...


I purchased this pattern last summer because I liked the bodice and it's front opening, the side gathers and the zipper in the back. It wasn't until I actually got the pattern home that I realized the center front and center back pieces are one long piece and the side front and back pieces are separate pieces. So the pattern sat while I wrapped my mind around the construction.



Then seasons changed and it got placed back in the uncut pattern piles which seem to litter my sewing cave. Another reason I'm not buying any new patterns. However, in the time of Corona, I seem to have an abundance of time to sew. I've also finally admitted to myself that it will be summer when I'm allowed back in public, so I'm sewing summer.

I pulled this pattern out of a pile after making 45+ buttonholes and sewing on the same number of buttons. I was so ready to sew another type of opening. However after choosing a fabric to go with this pattern, I found myself taking the "Pattern Hacking" on the envelope cover literally. Because my dress only uses the bodice and facing pieces...


Going my own way was necessary because of my fabric choice...


Supply List ~
4 yards of a medium weight border print cotton jacquard from Fabric Mart
22" white invisible zipper
Interfacing from Steinlauf & Stoeller

Pattern Alterations ~
-  This is where I deviated from the pattern instructions because I always saw the entire bodice as separate from the skirt.
-  So I cut the center front and back pieces off matching them to the side pieces.
-  Then instead of using the pattern pieces for the skirt, I cut two 45" wide pieces.
-  The back piece was cut in half so I could insert the zipper
-  The front piece was left the entire width which is different from the pattern instructions


Construction ~
This dress was all about using the border print to the best advantage. I made a couple of changes to the construction of the dress and I'm going to list them below.  However, please feel free to skip over this. I'm documenting it here so when I make this dress again, I can review what I did. 

1.  Shoulder Seams
I should have made this alteration first but of course I noticed it when I tried it on.  So I sewed the princess seams 1" wide until about 4" down the princess seams for both the front and back seams.

2.  Center Front Bodice
I made a change to the center front because the opening was way too low.  I made an mark on the pattern 7.5" from the top of the bodice, after measuring the front piece against my body.

3. Skirt
Since I cut the front skirt pattern as one piece instead of the three pieces the pattern suggests, I had to start the gathering in a different place.  I used the center front side seams as my guide to start the gathering. My end place was 1" before the side seam. I did the exact thing with the two back pieces.

4. Side Slits
I omitted both slits. I didn't want to interrupt the flow of the border print on the bottom of the dress. Though when I make this again I will use at least one side slit...two is a little too much for me now.

One more thing - I will need to remember to add the pockets before sewing the bodice to the skirt. I didn't this time and it was a challenge to add them back in later.

Now A Few Pictures ~




This version is a little looser in the bodice than I wanted. The fabric makes this dress and while its a little stiffer, it works. I will take in the side seams for the next one.  I also want to make it in a drapier fabric so it will have a better hang. So of course I've already picked out fabric to try this again...sooner or later.

Next up on the blog is a cardigan and shirt. While I'm sewing for summer, I'm realistic enough to know that there will be cool days when I will want to wear my white jeans. Plus after six maxi dresses...I'm ready for something else. That's whats next on the blog...


...as always more later!



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