Sunday, January 10, 2010

Vogue 8623 - My Your Choice Item

I picked this pattern to use for the jacket or my choice item in the SWAP because it has a funky collar and an interesting back detail. 

So here's where it stands now:


(back view showing pleat)

The outer shell is completed...the lining has been cut out and I've started sewing it together.  The jacket still needs the collar to be made and the lining inserted...

However, this is the first time in a long time that I've made a garment straight out of the envelope.  I didn't need to make any adjustments to the size 24 that I started with...probably because the pattern is a custom fit pattern allowing you to pick your cup size for the front pieces.  I started with the D cup front pattern pieces for anyone who wants to know. 

Since the back has the pleated detail and offers a looser fit, there were no worries that the jacket would be too tight through the body.  And normally I need to make an adjustment to the sleeves because of my bodacious biceps but that wasn't a concern with this jacket either.

The pattern goes together easily, the back pleat makes up quickly and without any issues.  The raglan sleeves are a nice detail that is formed from a separate pattern piece for the front and the back. 

I know that I'm known for the changes that I make to patterns to make them work for me, but I only made two changes in this construction.  The first was to add black silk organza to the center front pieces instead of using fusible interfacing on the boucle fabric. 


(black silk organza basted to center front pieces)

The second change was that I didn't cut out 4 center front pieces from the fashion fabric as the pattern instructs. I thought it would make the jacket center front too bulky using a double front from the boucle fabric.  Instead I cut my second set of front pieces out of lining fabric.  I will share pics of this once I've sewn the lining together and inserted it into the jacket.

This is just an update...I wanted to share with you how wonderful it is to work with both the pattern and the fabric. I believe this is going to be a great addition to the two dresses that I've already completed for the SWAP.

One more shot of the unfinished jacket over the plaid sheath dress...hanging from my closet door:



Oh and the fabric is the navy/creme poly blend boucle from the Vera Wang Lavendar Collection from Fabric.com.

...as always more later...

29 comments:

  1. I like this jacket very much. The detail in the back is really lovely.

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  2. Looking good, looking forward to the final garment.

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  3. I can't wait to see this one finished. Looks gorgeous so far.

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  4. Ooooh, it looks nice. Can't wait to see it finished.

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  5. I'll be very interested to see how the collar comes out. I'm loving what you've got finished up to this point.

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  6. I love your blog - thanks for all the time and effort you put in! Great jacket -

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  7. Looking good, I love the fabric and the back pleat detail.

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  8. This looks so great! The fabric is gorgeous!

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  9. You certainly know how to choose your patterns and fabric. This looks great already. A very classy jacket.

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  10. I love it! I have the same pattern. Why did you use organza instead of the fusible interfacing? I have a wool tweed for mine, should I do the same?

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  11. That's such a pretty jacket and pattern. I'll be interested in the changes you've made, regarding the fronts. That pattern is now on my list!

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  12. Nice! Good call on the silk organza, and using lining for facings instead of boucle. I would have gone the same route.
    That fabric looks amazing.

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  13. WOW! Looks great already. Can't wait to see the finished jacket!

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  14. Oh cool! I've been hoping to see this jacket sewn up: vogue has offered this same style back for the past 3 or 4 years. I tried the first pattern: there was too much fabric in the back and it pleated directly into the neckline resulting in too much pull on the back of the jacket. This one looks more balanced with the pleats being captured into the shoulder yoke section of the raglan sleeves.

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  15. The jacket is coming along nicely and the fabric is gorgeous. Interesting that you used lining for facing. I had cut lining for the facings for one of the coats I was working on b/c I thought the fashion fabric would have too much bulk along the front and honestly, didn't know if it was a good idea.

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  16. It's looking good Carolyn! I need to try one of those Custom Fit patternsas I'm a Dcup too.

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  17. This is coming along so nicely - it's going to be wonderful!

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  18. I'm loving the fabric texture on this one. And the change to the front too. Looks like another winner!

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  19. I like everything about it.

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  20. I really like this jacket, Caroline. Very pretty fabric.

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  21. I love the jacket and the selection of fabric. I love your blog and how you select fabrics and patterns and they come out so beautifully. I am going to put this one on my to do list. Love it.

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  22. That jacket is lovely. This was the pattern that I loved but decided it wouldn't do with my wide shoulders-but now that I see it without the collar, I'm thinking maybe it would work. Another perfect garment found in Carolyn's online closet. Can't wait to see the finished product on you.

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  23. I love your blog!! Please check out my blog and follow me!

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  24. I love your fabric and the style of this jacket. It's going to be great!

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  25. Your jacket looks great. I think I want this pattern now!

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  26. love, love this jacket♥ Sorry i'm late to the party,, Happy Blogiversary!!

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