Thursday, September 09, 2010

Burda 09-2005-115 - Pattern Alterations

First let's get it out of the way...the Macy's color blocked dress is finished. However, after spending the day out I'm just not in the mood to get dressed up and take pictures.  So I promise I will have pics of me in the finished dress soon.

Before I left this afternoon, I worked on the Burda dress #115 from the September 2005 issue.  Let me remind you of how Burda WOF (that's what it was called then!) showed it:


This is the description, "Elegant but not showy - this Sixties-styled sheath dress is quite typical for the Lady Look.  Newly interpreted with curved waist seams, this classic looks ever so modern and is extremely figure flattering.  Our illustrated sewing course for this style located in the supplement will guarantee your sewing success."

I need to start out by saying that even though I love the design on this dress because it is so ladylike and classic, I HATE tracing the pattern off those pattern sheets.  *sigh*  I need to say this again...I HATE TRACING THE PATTERN OFF THOSE SHEETS!  Okay I'm feeling a little better...

So after I traced all those dayum pieces off the pattern sheets, and there are a lot of pieces, I had to alter all of those pieces because this pattern is size 36 - 44.  Yeah, I think I wear a 50 or 52 in a BWOF pattern. *sigh* I was ready to toss this project in the garbage at that point and go look for a very easy top to make.  But I realized that I started the tracing too late last night and that a fresh perspective in the morning would help.  

This morning the tracing was a little easier but again I wonder how do you Burdaphiles do this?  Anyway, my starting point was once again my TNT dress pattern.  Please, there was just no way that I was re-inventing the fit process with all those tiny little dress pieces!


After the front dress piece from my TNT pattern was traced, it was used as a basis to enlarge the Burda pattern pieces. 


The Burda pieces were lain on top of the dress front.  I then enlarged each pattern piece to meet my fitted TNT dress pattern.  Each piece was cut out and 5/8" seam allowances were added to the edges of each one.  


Then to double check and make sure that the pattern actually reflected my TNT dress front, I laid them back onto the pattern, checked them again and made additional corrections.  After all of the pattern work on the front of the dress, I've decided that I will use my TNT back pattern pieces.  The thought of doing this process all over again for the back pieces and then matching the sides seams, started me to trembling and muttering...it wasn't good people! *LOL*  So this is where I left the dress when I went out to lunch with my Mom and my daughter. 

BTW, the BWOF magazine shows the dress two ways ~ in a tweedy fabric and in a smooth tropical wool fabric.  I wasn't sure what fabric I was going to use when I went out but when I got home and saw the Macy's Dress hanging, I realized that a doubleknit would really showcase the seaming...and even though I thought I had a gray one on hand...


I'm going to go with this raspberry one.  If I'm gonna put this much effort into the pattern alterations, well d*mnit, you're going to see each and every one of those seams in a boldly colored dress!  I can always tone it down for work by adding a black or navy cardigan.

I'm off to cut out ALL of those pattern pieces...

...and as always more later!

    

22 comments:

  1. Ooooo... raspberry! I can't wait to see this one finished too, I really like this dress and I'm looking forward to getting a look at the upsize. (I love it when other people do all the work!)

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  2. You are TOOOO Funny! Congrats on having wrassled the curved-seams pattern to your satisfaction. We're all looking forward to the more than satisfactory dress shown off (with black cardigan, of course!).

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  3. Oh, honey, I'm so happy you are going with the raspberry! It will be worth all of that PITA tracing, I just know it.

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  4. love that raspberry! Actually, I don't mind tracing the patterns because I kind of am putting it together mentally in my head when I do it. What I hate is the fact that I have to alter EVERYTHING! So, whether it is a big 4, independent, or BWOF, I'm still tracing. But darn, I hate all the cutting apart and putting back together of pattern pieces before I can even start on the fabric!

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  5. I've never sewn with BWOF. I have three of the mags including the one you sent me for my BD and like you I'm sure I'm going to hate tracing the patterns. Wait a minute...I did trace a pair of slacks last year but never cut them out or sewed them. This might be a good time if I can still find it. Will wait patiently for you to take pictures of the color block dress and this one.

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  6. Oh this dress is going to be another stunner! Looking forward to seeing the fruits of your sew-cation. g

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  7. A suggestion, if I may. You might want to consider incorporating the bust dart into one of the horizontal seams. It will look more elegant that way. But it will look fabulous regardless.

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  8. Love this process--thanks for the behind-the-scenes! You give me hope and inspire bravery to break away from the pattern. And I love that raspberry!

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  9. I feel your pain on tracing the Burda patterns from the magazine! In the end, I think it will be worth it. Looking forward to seeing this dress made up.

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  10. So, tell me Carolyn, how do you really feel about tracing the pattern off those sheets?

    We Burdaphiles don't really like tracing, either. We see it as a necessary evil.

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  11. Great fabric choice! As far as tracing, I wouldn't mind it so much if Burda didn't make it so difficult. I subscribe to another magazine, Australian Smocking & Embroidery, rather pricey, that has very clear patterns to trace. None are laid on top of each other. It is worth the extra $$$ spent. Are they missing an opportunity here?

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  12. Burda magazine is so tempting. You know subscribing and having a pattern catalog delivered to your door.

    But all of those dayum lines on the pattern sheets make me want to get a dayum drink!

    That is why I don't make a lot of BWOF stuff. I can't wait to see how your dress turns out. Sheaths with interesting seaming are so "in" right now.

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  13. The raspberry will be beautiful on you. Can't wait to see it. Also, loved the Macy's dress--as always, you are inspirational

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  14. Great color choice. I can't wait to see your progress.

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  15. Oh Carolyn, that dress cries out for a strong color and the raspberry will be fabulous. It will be worth all the trouble.

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  16. What a beautiful shade of raspberry! Would you mind terribly doing a tutorial on how to grade up a pattern using a TNT dress pattern? It seems like a really clever method.

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  17. raliateI don't know if you want to hear this but the more practice you have tracing Burda patterns sheets, the easier it gets. At least it did for me. Or maybe I just numb my brain to the odiousness of the task with loud upbeat music and the promise of a sweet treat when I get done.
    I can't wait to see the finished dress. I am sure all the work adapting the seamed section to your TNT are going to be worth it when you see the finished dress.

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  18. Carolyn, yet another reason to have a fine-tuned TNT pattern. It surely makes the grading up of smaller patterns that much easier. I can't wait to see the finished product!

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  19. I have been subscribing to Burda/BWOF for quite some time now and have NEVER sewn anything from it b/c of the tracing aspect. However, I love many of the designs so I keep subscribing and saying I'll eventually make something. This month's issue had a coat as it's petite pattern of the month and so I think I need to start with that. I really don't know for sure how the Burdas are going to fit me so that will be part of the discovery process.

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  20. Your post made me smile a lot. In the past I didn't mind tracing Burda magazine patterns because I usually trace all patterns to make alterations but now that they are cramming so many on to a page it's difficult and I'm not so happy about it. That raspberry fabric is absolutely gorgeous - this is going to be a very fine dress!

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  21. This is going to be beautiful. Can't wait.

    I was curious about the bust dart too. Seems like it just naturally wants to be incorporated in the uppermost bodice seam.

    I also would love to hear a little more detail on how you "graded up" to your TNT. Did you get the curved pieces that you enjoyed tracing so much, and just draw them on your TNT?

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  22. Well, I don't mind tracing the patterns so much as grading them down if necessary.

    I think you're doing the smart thing by using your TNT. Why reinvent the wheel if you don't have to?

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