Sunday, July 29, 2007

Vogue 9220 - The Substitution

As stated in a previous post, I have decided to remove the St. John's dress from my end of summer sewing list. At first I was going to use my TNT dress pattern and transform it into one more outfit ~ the yellow blouse pictured in the substitution post was to be the jump off ~ however I really am sick of working with my TNT dress pattern so I am moving on.

Yesterday while digging through my considerable pattern stash (which is contained in 10 legal bankers boxes that reside in the back of my DD's closet) I found this Out-Of-Print (OOP) pattern - Vogue 9220.

The pattern envelope describes the dress as: fitted and slightly flared, lined, above mid-knee, has princess seams and back zipper with short sleeves. The pattern is copyright 1995. I really like the accompanying jacket but since I am using the black & red polka dot linen that I used as the centerband of the Chloe knock-off dress (I mean it was out of the fabric closet ~ what was the point of putting it back in?) I am concerned that the jacket and dress combination would make me look like a big ole fat polka dot. So the jacket is not being made this time. However, this jacket will get made some time in the future.

I need to say something here about using some of the older, OOP Vogue patterns in my stash. Every time I have used one of these older patterns I have had to make less alterations in my size to get the best fit. Fewer alterations to the shoulder seams and throughout the body of the pattern. I don't know why but the patterns from the last decade seem to be drafted with more ease than their latest offerings.

For the accompanying piece to this dress, I will probably make a lightweight black sweatery type jacket. I believe that this type of jacket will serve me better when moving from very cold public transportation to a very cold office space. The only time I seem to have any issues with heat are when I am taking the subway around the city...and even then it is only journeying through the station and standing on the platform waiting for the subway. Some of those trains are just as cold as the bus!

Yesterday and today I worked on the pattern alterations. I added an inch in length to the dress and 1/2" to an inch on some of the side seams from the waist down. I also lengthened and added length and width to the short sleeves.

The shell of the dress is basted together for a quick fitting and I will need to take out some of the width that I added to the center front piece. Other than that I just need to make some decisions about trim, lining and the sleeve treatment to finish up this dress. As always I will keep you updated on my progress...


  1. 10 bankers boxes of patterns? I bow to you, since I only have 7 boxes' worth!

    I like the pattern. It's such a classic.

  2. When next you have your girls over, get them to help you with tracing off your patterns. Like a whole bunch, so that is out of the way and they will have made good use of their time while hanging out in front of the television. Of course, the payoff for them is familiarising themselves with patterns.

  3. One question, when you open up the sleeve like you did, how does that affect the shoulder and side seams?

  4. I'm thinking that the decision to do the dress and not the jacket in the dot is a good one. You'll get more mileage from a solid jacket to go over the dresses.
    To anon above, you'll notice that she didn't change the sleeve cap at all, so it will fit into the armscye without any changes. and the sleeve width doesnt' affect anything re the side seam of the dress.
    Hoping all is well at work today.
    Oh, and I'll be adding to your bankers boxes, I htink on Wednesday - look for a pkg in the mail next weekend.
    For me today: finish assembling the smocked dress, which I undid that last row of backsmocking on.

  5. I'm with Marji - a solid jacket would be better in this case. I love red, so I'll be interested in seeing how this one turns out.

  6. I've been reading your column for a little while now and you really inspire me. I'm also a large size so I've always shied away from sewing anything for myself (sew mainly for my granddaughters and pillows). But you inspire me!! Your clothes you've sewn always look so wonderful. I've been going through my patterns and I'm really going to work on something for me for a change. Thanks

  7. Oh Thank you Carolyn! I don't quite have 10 banker's boxes yet, but close. I feel so much better because for all that I look through my patterns trying to sort them out, I find that I "need" them all.

    and yes, often the older patterns are easier to fit.

  8. That dress looks like it will be very flattering with the slight flare to the skirt!

    I really enjoyed your jumper post. I have always loved jumpers and was very excited to see them coming back in style this fall. But then, I got scared off after reading the whole PR thread. Now I'm back where I started and believe there are some adorable patterns out there and intend to make one or more for the fall - I especially like the empire waist pattern new from McCalls (I think.)

  9. I agree with everyone else about the solid color jacket. I love the red polka dot fabric. You're right about the design ease change in patterns. Everything today is "high and tight" in the arms and shoulders.


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