Butterick 4980 ~ The Wearable Muslin

Pattern Description:

Misses/Misses' Petite Jacket, Dress and tie belt. Loose-fitting, waist length jacket has neckband and three-quarter length raglan sleeves. View B: button loop closure

Fabric:

Jacquard linen tablecloth purchased at an estate sale

Construction Details:

This pattern goes up to a size 20 and I typically use a size 22 or 24 pattern. Here are a few stats from the pattern: the finished lower jacket edge is 46.5 inches. The finished sleeve (bicep) width is 19.5 and the finished bust measurement is also 46.5 inches. The back length of the jacket is 19.25 inches.

All of these measurements (except for the sleeve/bicep one) are just a few inches short of what I like in wearing ease in a garment. So the first alteration I performed was to lengthen the jacket by 2 inches. This made the jacket hit my actual waistline.

The next pattern alteration was to add one inch to the hemline of the jacket front. I did this by slicing the pattern piece from the bust point (which was clearly marked on the pattern piece) and spreading the pattern pieces so that I ended up with an additional inch at the hem. I also added one inch to the center back seam of the pattern and changed the back neckband piece to reflect this change.

Then I sewed the jacket together. Here it is hemmed and over a black tank dress that I made last year:

It is wearable but after reviewing the fit I need to make a few more alterations to the pattern. First the pattern envelope shows the jacket meeting at the front when buttoned and hanging straight down from there. I don't know if this is the artist's rendering or how the jacket is suppose to hang but I don't like the amount of space over my abdomen area. So I think I need to add another inch or two to the front piece. I also don't like the way the fabric pools in the back. It is the victim of the "place on fold" pattern piece. The next version will have a center back seam which will eliminate the pooled fabric look and the jacket will not only fit better but have a sleeker look. I am also debating whether or not to add another 2 inches to the length.

The directions for the pattern were pretty easy to follow. I deliberately made myself read them and not just follow along with the pictures. There was only one place where I thought a better explanation could be given and that was when you applied the neckband to the jacket. Otherwise, the construction sequence made sense and the jacket went together easily.

I originally choose this pattern because I was inspired by a Liz Claiborne jacket that I saw in an ad. Of course, I can't find the ad now but in my mind, I remember the jacket being longer than this. Even though the short 3/4 length sleeve jacket is in and I like the way it looks, I must remember what works for my body. And I think another 2 inches would give the appearance of a short jacket but provide just a little more body coverage. My other concern is that the jacket won't work for all garment pieces equally. I like my jackets to work not only with dresses and skirts but with pants too. I am not a huge fan of the v-spot showing on my pants...maybe if I had a flat tummy that wouldn't be a problem but I just don't like to call attention to extra plump areas on my body. My other concern is that I don't want to overfit the jacket.

I tried the jacket on with another version of the Sewing Workshop Mission Tank that I constructed from the remnants of the linen jacquard tablecloth and a pair of black linen pants from my closet. I am going to make up another pair of black pants from the herringbone linen that I scored from Ebads Fabrics last friday and wear with this outfit.

I need to make some decisions before I cut into my brown eyelet. Any comments or suggestions?

And has anyone else noticed that all the pieces that have come from my sewing room are black & white!? I need to find some color up in here! *smile* You can see more pics in my Yahoo album here.