Sunday, January 24, 2010

Vogue 8623 is Done

This is the third piece in my SWAP Collection, "Midnight at the Oasis."  It's my "Your Choice" piece - chosen because I want it to go over everything in the collection.

Usually I have a list of alterations that I've made to the pattern to make it work for me...not so this time!  Because this is a "Custom Fit Pattern" that allows you to choose your cup size for your front pieces...and because this is a generously cut princess seam jacket pattern...I needed to make no alterations to either the jacket or the sleeves.

I can't remember the last time that I was able to sew a garment from the pattern without making ANY alterations!!!  So for the fact alone I love this jacket and plan to make it again!  Okay, some pics:


Jacket on Lulu open


Jacket on Lulu buttoned



A glimpse of the lining



A back view showing the pleat

Some stats:

Fabric:
navy wool tweed blend from the Vera Lavendar collection on fabric.com
light blue polyester lining also from the Vera Lavendar collection

Notions:
4 large blue & gold buttons from M&J Trimmings
4 large covered snaps from Pacific Trimmings

Construction:
The outer shell construction is pretty straightforward.  If you choose to make the jacket, just make sure that you carefully mark the pleat notches on the back jacket pattern piece.  Forming the back pleat is what gives the jacket interest and it's easy to do if you mark the fabric correctly.

The lining is what held me up.  I don't know what it is about me and jacket linings but I always feel like I need to take a deep breathe and set aside alot of time because each one makes me feel inadequate...even though this one inserts fairly easily, I did dance around it awhile before settling down and inserting it.  However, I did not serge finish the ends of the lining fabric which raveled terribly.  I stitched each seam twice - 1/8" between stitching lines and using my pinking shears, pinked each edge.  Then I pressed the seam lines flat.  Although I did serge finish the neckline and the hems of the sleeves and the jacket. 



The only change I made to the pattern was to fold over the fronts of the jackets 1" and attach the lining that way.  The pattern instructs you to make a second front from the fabric and interface it.  I just thought that with the fabric I was using this would make the front very bulky.  If you are using a smooth fabric, this won't be a problem, but no one wants all of that extra fabric on the front of them!



The lining was probably the most time-consuming issue besides all of the hand stitching needed to apply the snaps and the buttons.  Because even though the pattern envelope shows the jacket with buttons and buttonholes, the pattern instructions recommends buttons and snaps.

So three pieces down and eight more to go! *LOL*  I'm going to work on the bottoms next.  I'm making two pairs of pants from my TNT pattern and then I'm going to work on the tops.  With my trip to Moods, I bought the last piece of fabric that I need to make the tops and that will allow me to finish up the rest of the garments in the collection.  However, I have to tell you that I'm aching, I mean aching to work on a dress!  *LOL*  See I have a problem...

...as always, more later!

48 comments:

  1. That fabric is beautiful. Love the whole jacket!

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  2. It looks great! I have several of those custom cup sized patterns in the stash. Now I am more excited about sewing them up! No alterations!! Amazing!

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  3. *Really* great jacket. The large back pleat is such a stylish design feature. I love that the jacket is navy, and not the usual black. Can't wait to see a shot of you modelling it with the rest of your pieces - I bet it looks great on!

    BTW - your version looks 100 times better than the pattern photo.

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  4. I am loving this jacket. Now that's what I call a foundation piece, something you can truly build a wardrobe around.

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  5. That's a lovely jacket - what beautiful fabric. As always, you did a great job!

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  6. Carolyn, it's gorgeous! That lining is divine. I can't wait to see the rest of your wardrobe.

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  7. It was worth the time you put in on the lining. It looks fantastic!

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  8. Your jacket looks fantastic!

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  9. This is a lovely jacket. I really like this style of jacket. The fabric is very nice and it will go so well with the dresses you made already.

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  10. Wow, this looks beautiful!! What a cute style. It will be so versatile. This is one of those jackets you can throw on with jeans or wear to the office. I just really, really like it!!
    So, how much of the VW fabric have you gotten? I just placed another order -- I love what I have already received. Once it was $1.95 per yard, it was hard to resist!!

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  11. What a beautiful jacket and the fabric is wonderful. I feel the same way about jacket linings.

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  12. This is one gorgeous jacket Carolyn. I really am a sucker for this style jacket. The pleat just makes it I think.
    Thank you for the nice comment on my blouse. This is the first blouse/shirt I've made in a long time and I really like it.

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  13. Cute cute cute...I love your jacket and that is one beautiful fabric

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  14. This is so stylish, love the fabric choice. A great teaser to the launch of your latest Midnight at Oasis collection!

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  15. Very chic, elegant. It has a retro feel. Just lovely.

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  16. Your jacket is beautiful and I love the fabric!

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  17. Awesome jacket! LOVE the pleat!!

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  18. I really love how this turned out, I think I said this when it was still in progress but the back pleat and fabric are gorgeous.

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  19. Very nice work. I think this jacket styling is sensational. I love the pleat at the back.

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  20. I love everything about this jacket. The style is beautiful, very elegant. I love the fabric and the lining is just right - it tones well but the lighter colour is so pretty and gives it a lovely 'lift'. This is the kind of jacket that will go well with any outfit, from jeans to dresses.

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  21. It is so pretty. I love your choice of fabric and colors. Thank your for the tips I hope mine turns out as well.

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  22. Another beautiful piece in the collection. Can't wait to see you model the jacket with your other pieces.

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  23. Great jacket! I must say, I love the dress form photos. I like photos on you, as well, of course, but it's easier to see the details of the clothes on the form. Thanks for the tip about the custom fit patterns. I'll have to check that out the next time I make something for my mom.

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  24. That is really, really cute, Carolyn! Can I borrow it?!

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  25. The jacket turned out wonderful. I feel the same way about lining, always have to wrap my head around the best way to proceed.

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  26. Beautiful jacket! I'm still in love with that fabric and that it's in navy instead of black. Such a versatile piece. Lovely job!

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  27. It's a gorgeous jacket. The fabric is fantastic and it looks perfect.

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  28. You are in dress withdrawal are you? :) Your jacket is really nice.

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  29. What a great jacket! This is such a classic piece that you can wear for a long time.

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  30. Love it! Your SWAP collection is going to be outstanding!

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  31. This is a great jacket and so classic. I bet you get lots of wear from this design.

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  32. Your jacket turned out great. I love how your SWAP is progressing.

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  33. Love the jacket. In fact, after I saw yours in process, I bought the pattern. So, will be visiting frequently to see how you did it, especially that lining. Also, thanks for the tip about the custom cup size. I am hoping it will enable a better fit for me through the shoulders and neck. You are an inspiration, Carolyn.

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  34. Hi..love your blog. Your fabric looks alot like the fabric I used for my coat. I also bought it from Fabric.com, but was called Russian tweed black, which actually turned out to be a darkish brown.
    I really like this pattern...thanks for reviewing it. I've been eyeing that one too.

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  35. Your jacket looks lovely, and the tweed fabric will coordinate well with so many other fabrics. Isn't it wonderful when you don't have to make any alterations! You are making great progress on your SWAP. Three pieces, including the jacket, which is one of the more labor intensive pieces. It seems like you planned out your SWAP work load really well.

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  36. Stunning - that blue lining is just so perfect in that jacket!

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  37. You can't even tell you labored over the lining so much.

    It's so ironic that what you can't see is what makes the coat something to be reckoned with but that blue lining is FABULOUS!

    After all your work, Would you recommend everyone have their hand at it?

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  38. I so love this jacket. Fabulous!

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  39. How nice, I like the blue lining to!
    I have a question to ask yo about what size to select for Vogue pattern.
    You explain us, that you use the vogue pattern so long that you know exactly what size to use. And for this jacket you make no alteration at all (how nice taht they add cup-size in they pattern ;-)
    Can you share a little more about this, please?
    For me, when I select patttern by measurment, they run allays too large, and 2 size too large... But for some of them, more close fitted, they tend to run not so large and at the end a little to small!
    Have you some heuristics, or tricks to share with us? Do you unfold the pattern to mesure them and see what size to select, do you know, something like if it's fitted, I will use this size (one or 2 down-size), if it's semi-fitted I will use this other size... or it's just experience to work with old friends?!
    Well, what are your secret ;-)

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  40. Your jacket just is "Loverlies"!!! It turned out so nice and I just love the fact you named your dress form Lulu! I named mine Myrna ;-)

    Ma Ma Ma...Marvelous Myrna>

    Sewing is "sew" much fun!!!

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  41. Gorgeous jacket! It looks so nice and feminine!

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  42. What a beautiful jacket! Great job!

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  43. That is a GREAT jacket. I wish I had your skills. *sigh*

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