Lining vs. Underlining ~
I underlined two of the three dresses because I've reached that stage in my life where my internal thermometer doesn't work like it use to. I've noticed that in the summer heat that the rayon bemberg linings stick to me unpleasantly...and I mean STICK to me! I've also had issues with the linings catching and bunching up around my hips from all the crap I lug in my too big handbags while racing to and from subway, the bus station and home. I also noticed that the dresses I underlined wore better especially when I used a cotton batiste underlining. So my choices are totally based upon ease of wear and not some sewing rule or pattern instruction.
Finishings ~
I'm sure that once upon a time my dress pattern came with facing pieces for the neckline and armholes. I've long since ditched them. If I don't insert a full lining into the dress, I always use bias binding to finish off the neckline and the armholes...and even when I do insert a full lining, I still add bias binding to the armholes. I like this application because I like hand stitching the binding into the dress especially when I've underlined the garment. Especially since I can hide those stitches in the underlining fabric. This finishing technique has become part of my signature just like the lace that I add to the linings of most my dress and skirt hems.
Knock-offs ~
This is a really simple silhouette to knock off and it will work with most body types. It can go from casual to dressy based upon your fabric choices...a really great option if you're looking for the one dress to add to your wardrobe. So I used my TNT pattern to get these dresses and since that pattern is no longer available to help you knock-off my knock-off, I've found the following pattern:
Butterick 5706 is the perfect sheath dress if you want to make your own Peyton dress. It comes with a scoop and v-neckline...it's sleeveless, or with short sleeves and three-quarter length sleeves. It's also sized 8-24 and would work for many of the design changes that I make to my TNT pattern.
Wearability Factor ~
Each Peyton was made from a different type of fabric so of course each one wore differently. To me, the cotton pique and linen versions wore the best. The silk developed quite a few wrinkles and held them more than the linen did. However, all three were comfortable to wear without any wardrobe malfunctions.
In conclusion, I'm so glad that I took this journey. The dresses are so me and this has been a really gratifying sew. I would also like to thank everyone who left a comment, asked a question, or just stopped and admired the pieces. The compliments of fellow sewists who understand the passion that drives me to create, is appreciated so much! Lastly, pictures of all the dresses are in my Flickr album.
...as always, more later!
I free with you about finishing with a bias binding. I always do my armholes that way, and sometimes the neckline as well. It makes a neat and unobtrusive finish.
ReplyDeleteI've been following this with interest, thanks! I think the third dress was my favourite but they're all lovely.
ReplyDeleteI hear you about the internal thermometer - mine is on the blink too so I shall certainly keep your points in mind.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the wrap up. Great dresses. Looking forward to whatever you do next
ReplyDeleteCarolyn - Thanks for your wrap-up and advice. Very interesting and I'm going to try your method of underlining instead of lining. As usual, you did a great job on the dresses!!
ReplyDeleteFantastic job on all 3 of your peyton dreses.Loved each one.. Thankyou for sharing with us.
ReplyDeleteAlso, thanks for sharing the butterick pattern ,I am going to get it.I want a PEYTON dress too.ha
Happy seing.
All three dresses look marvelous, I love how the same pattern can be casual to dressy just by changing the fabric. The ribbon on the last one looks terrific! I love that touch.
ReplyDeleteThanks for finding the Butterick pattern, I've also been wanting to find a sheath dress pattern with those options.
I love reading your blog, you really inspire me to think outside the box!
A resounding "Amen" on your lining vs. interlining comments. And when it comes to facings, I find that drafng a full lining, seaming in the facings at neckline and armholes gives me a great result. (make sense?) A sort of hybrid lining, if you get what I'm saying. As for knock-offs, I'm all for doing many versions of one design, but I am constantly inspired by the next "new" thing, and never stick to the plan! Creative ADD, I suppose.
ReplyDeleteCarolyn fantastic dresses as usual. Reading your blog has made to take a serious look at my own wardrobe and the "me" that I am presenting to the world. Thank you, thank you, thank you for all that you share!
ReplyDeleteJust wanted to drop in and let you know I'm thoroughly enjoying reading your blog. I don't get to comment often with my busy school schedule right now, but know th at I read all your posts and hope to one day be as good as you. You look awesome in everything make!!
ReplyDeleteKeep up the great work and thank you for sharing with us.
Carolyn, your creativity, ingenuity, and skill at executing your ideas makes me forget, sometimes, that you are not a professional sewist/blogger. I have learned so much by reading you, and found my own inspiration from seeing how you interpret fashions.
ReplyDeleteI've read about underlining linen to reduce wrinkling, but always with silk organza - both too expensive and too tricksy for me. Seeing you use cotton batiste gave me the courage to try it myself on a dress I made yesterday, using Vogue 8786 to copy Kate Spade Hana colorblock dress. I'm thrilled with how it came out! I now have a "designer" dress that I could never have fit into, even if I could have afforded it!
Thank you so much for your inspiration and mentoring.
I can't imagine lining or underlining in anything shiny and ultimately sticky in summer weather! I have a piece of fabric that is looking for a dress and the Butterick my just fit my needs, with a cotton batiste underlining of course.
ReplyDeleteThe whole series of dresses was great so I appreciate your finding a current pattern that will when fitted provide a good, basic tnt for my collection. I have a couple of tnt's but not for a dress. When you have to make as many alterations as I do having tnt's around really speeds up the output.
Thanks for this info. I am finishing up a dress that has a full lining, but I think a cotton batiste underlining would be the way to go next time. I would not have thought of this without your posts:)
ReplyDeleteCarolyn, thank you for your findings on lining vs underlining and rayon vs batiste. I find this particularly helpful in planning my sewing.
ReplyDeleteThese dresses are fabulous! I have been moving the last year or two in the direction of repeating TNT patterns with adjustments to details, and this series totally convinces me. Beautiful work!
ReplyDeleteAnother great outcome. Beautiful dresses, all three! Very interesting comparison between lining/underlining and rayon/batiste. Thanks for sharing your findings. Certainly gives the rest of us a short-cut to success.
ReplyDeleteI love this blog -- you are such an inspiration! Anyway, I am curious about binding the armholes with a lined dress and the underlined dress. Can you do a post about this? Even if you just post some detail filled pictures --it would be so great!
ReplyDeleteI like the wrap-up, too. You can bet I will think about it when I see cotton batiste at a good price. The little details make a huge difference, don't they?
ReplyDeleteI do agree with you about cotton underlining for summer dresses. My internal thermometer is ok at the moment but I found that a cotton underlined dress that I had one summer was just perfect for our humidity.
ReplyDeleteThank you for wrapping up your Peyton experience. I've enjoyed it and learnt alot about being creative.
I'm with you on the binding of necklines and armholes. I do this because I love how you can hide the hand stitches; because I love the neat finish a binding gives to the dress; and because facings in this case are a royal pain in the behind!
ReplyDeleteI appreciate your notes about lining v. underlining. I am working on a skirt that will be underlined because it's white and I didn't want the seam allowances to show through. I will be curious if I notice it wearing differently than a lined skirt.
ReplyDeleteCarolyn, Thank you for allowing us to journey with you. The dresses are lovely.
ReplyDeleteYour final thoughts are duly noted. Lining vs underlining. I like how underlining wears in the summer months too. On finishings, I toss out the facing too. Lol Your finishing techniques are finding they way into my signature. Thanks. Knocking off coupled with hand picked fabric is a dream. And the wearability of a custom fit TNT pattern is the perfect recipe for comfort. I love all three versions, and am adapting your approach to finer wardrobe building. Thanks again for inspiring me and have a wonderful weekend.
C
Thanks so much for the wrap up.. I'm amazed how one pattern can create 3 different looks and all 3 amazing!
ReplyDeleteYou are one of my inspiration, Carolyn! I've been following your blog for years now, even though I don't comment. Let's say, I'm a silent admirer.
Besides the love to sew and create, We do not have much in common. I'm not in your age range, skillset or body type... but I really love and admire your enthusiasm to sew and create and the discipline you have in working on your hobby!
Thanks for being my muse!
I think I said too early that besides sewing, we don't have much in common.... On second thoughts, we do!
ReplyDeleteObama-love for one! :) There's more I can think of now! lol..
Now that I've finally read your posts on the value of a good comment, I will comment often!