Darts, Darts, Darts

As I was working on my latest dress, I remembered a question that Cidell (Miss Cellies Pants) asked me when she was visiting and looking at the interior of one of my dresses and jacket. With her question resonating in my head, I thought that I would show you how I make darts...emphasis here on the "how I do it" part! 'Cause one of the beauties of sewing to me is that there are some right ways to sew and then there are some ways that just work for the individual operator!

Now that the disclaimer is out of the way...*LOL*...First I mark darts. My favorite method is to use a tracing wheel and tracing paper. Now if you haven't used tracing paper in awhile it is soooo much better than the stuff I used when I first learned to sew...y'know that wax stuff that took the "all powerful cleanser" to remove the markings from your garment! I use Dritz tracing paper probably because I can get it in the garment district at Steinlauf and Stoller, where I purchase most of my sewing notions.

After marking them, I usually sew my darts in before serge finishing the edges of my garment. I use to serge finish all the pieces (one big sergefest) before I started any construction on the garment but I have noticed that in the last year & a half that method has gone by the wayside. I think that got phased out right along with my fast, faster, fastest sewing methods.

I sew the dart by starting about a half inch in from the cut edge, sew a few stitches forward and then sew in reverse to the edge. At the edge I sew forward to the point. About a half inch from the point I shorten my stitch length to really small baby stitches (1.0 on my Janome 8000) to the end, this locks the stitches without having to backstitch. Do I always remember to do this - noooooo - *LOL* Hey I gotta be real! But most times I do...and when I don't it's because that little 7th grade girl who learned to sew kicks in and I backstitch! However, my preferred method is to shorten the stitch.

Next, cut the threads...yeah, I'm being real basic here! Then I use my 6" shears to cut the top of the dart open. Another disclaimer, I only use this technique when lining a garment. Why?? Because I want the dart to lie as flat as possible on the fashion fabric when I add the lining to it. Sometimes I add a dart to the lining and sometimes I cut the lining from the fashion fabric piece after the dart has already been sewn but in either instances, I want those two pieces of fabric loving up against each other not fighting against each other.

If I'm not lining the garment, the dart is pressed down against the fabric. I don't cut it open because I am not going to attempt to serge finish the edges and possibly cut into my fabric with the serger knife as I get closer to the point. I also don't like having the additional thread in the dart.


Here is the most important part of dart making to me ~ outside of careful marking ~ pressing it flat and open. I can not impress upon you enough that you should not press a dart open or to the side on a flat ironing board. Please, please, please use your ham or your seam roll...whichever pressing tool you own...though I prefer my ham because you can get a really good press on a curved seam on your ham! Also, do not forget to use your pressing cloth. I have ruined many a piece of fabric from being anxious and not covering the dart with the pressing cloth first. After it is pressed (not ironed) flat, I flip the piece over and press with the pressing cloth on the right side to prevent any dimpling that may occur at the dart point.

I realize that these are simple tips but I've found that sometimes reading someone else's method of doing a "simple" sewing technique has upped my game and taught me something new. And since I ascribe to the always get better idea of sewing, hopefully something that I've shared with you about how I sew darts, will help you sew better darts too!

Four down and one more to go

Yeap, one more pair of lined black wool crepe pants are finished. One more UFO from last year done...and maybe, just maybe this year I might end up with five pairs of black pants. I mean I'm close...I'm so close that I can actually feel it...*LOL* These pants will work with quite a few jackets as well as twinsets in my wardrobe so I am thrilled that they are done.

I'm going to start on my last project for the weekend ~ another dress! I know, I know but this sewing vacay I just had dress fever. The weather is cooperating next week - it will be in the 40's and 50's all week so it will make dress wearing that much easier. Besides I have pretty much decided that I like wearing dresses and suits with skirts so much better than pantsuits so I am going to try and wear them more. We shall see if the weather beats back my desire.

Anyway, here is a pic of the fabric and lining that I am using for the next version of my TNT dress.

Here is the road map for this garment.

Finally some answers to a few questions...

Julie asked from where I got the Nancy Zieman technique? Sorry, I should have mentioned the book title when I posted about the technique. It's from her book, "The Busy Woman's Sewing Book" published in 1988. I reviewed the book in August 2008. You can read the review, here.

Also, someone else asked about the size of my closet awhile ago. I'm sorry that I'm just replying to you, however, my closet is normal size. One of those regular width apartment size closets with a long bar and a shelf above it. Clothing is stored by category, all pants together, all skirts, dresses, etc. All of my sweaters, tank tops, turtlenecks, etc. are stored on the shelf. I guess it would seem as if my closet should be packed but I am a huge believer in closet clean outs. I do one at the start of every season and am pretty ruthless about it. If I don't keep rotating things out there will be no space for the new things that I want to make!

I'm off to sew...just wanted to give you an update on how my sewing vacay is progressing!

Obligation beat out Inspiration

I guess you can tell by the title that I decided to finish up one of my leftover garments from 2007. These are not my original sewing vacay plans. Originally I was going to immerse myself in two really epic projects but since I haven't sewn in three weeks, I realized that I wanted to accomplish some quick things to have new pieces to wear to work next week.

Since I still have a three day weekend later this month, I think the first planned epic project can be accomplished during that weekend. So as of now this is how my vacay sewing is flowing...

The Simplicity 3631 Dress:

I love the versatility of this jumper/dress in the Simplicity 3631 pattern. The tan tropical wool version made previously works well in my work wardrobe so I have plans to make it in other colors and fabrications. The second version of this jumper/dress is made from black wool crepe.

Last night I reluctantly tried on the dress shell thinking that I still had some alterations to make to it before I could add the lining. However, I was pleasantly surprised when I put the dress on. It seems that somewhere in there I did the necessary changes and the dress fits so it's ready for the next steps. Taking all of that into account, I went ahead and finished it up.

This black wool crepe version will be a hard working piece in my wardrobe that will coordinate with quite a few of the jackets I've recently made. The major difference between this piece, I mean besides color and fabrication, is that I embellished the lowered waistline seam with a black patent leather piping. I don't want each version of this dress to be exactly the same - just in a different color - so each future adaptation will probably have something "creative" done to it to distinguish it from the original.

Here's this one's stats:

Fabric:

100% black wool crepe from Fabric Mart

Lining:

Black ambience

Notions:

22" zipper, black patent leather piping, rayon hem tape.

Next up - the TNT black wool crepe pants that have been cut out and patiently waiting their turn to be constructed. More pictures can be found in my Flickr album.

First Project of 2008

I guess starting out the year using a TNT dress pattern definitely signifies how my sewing is going to progress this year...because that's just what I did! This dress came into being after one of my latest fabric purchases arrived from Fabric Mart.

This fabric:

And this jumper/dress idea:

Somehow became this:

Fabric:

2.5 yards of midnight blue & black crepe wool, rayon and cotton blend

Lining:

2.5 yards of printed polyester charmeuse - also from Fabric Mart

Notions:

22" zipper

2 yards of rayon hem tape

I made this dress using my TNT dress pattern consisting of some of the pieces from a sleeveless dress that I made last summer and some of the pieces from the Chanel dress. When I'm sewing from an idea, I am basically free-styling especially since each incarnation is new and uncharted territory. I don't know if I thought the construction through well-enough with this dress or if it was just a case of the unpredictability of actual construction, but I ended up doing a lot of hand sewing during the process to make this dress work.

Bodice:
I used the v-neckline and overlapping front bodice pieces for this dress. The first dresses that I made using these bodice fronts were loosely fitted which was fine for casual summer dressing but not what I wanted for this look. So my first alteration was to take two small tucks in the bodice piece, of about 1/4 inch so that the top would lay closer to my chest wall.

The back bodice piece was also loose on the summer dresses so I used the back yoke piece and back bodice piece from the Chanel dress for this version. Using these pieces would insure that the back hugged my neck and upper back.

Piping was added to the neckline from the lining fabric. This came about quite by accident. After I had inserted the lining but before it was pressed into place, it overlapped the front and it gave a really plain bodice front a little zip. I liked it so I pressed it down like that and then stitched it flat.

The bodice and skirt pieces were cut with the stripes running vertically while the waistband was cut with the stripes running horizontally. Again this was a design detail added to give the dress interest. However, during the first fitting, I noticed that it actually added a slimming effect to the dress.

Sleeves:

I used the sleeves from the Chanel dress for this version...a shorter sleeve with a band added. Originally the band's fabric was going to be cut horizontally but somewhere in the cutting process I neglected to do that! *smile* However, I did add a piece of flat piping (slightly larger than what was used in the bodice) to the sleeves before adding the band to the bottom of the sleeve.

The sleeves were lined with the polyester charmeuse using a lining method that I learned from Nancy Zieman of Nancy's Notions. The lining and fashion fabric were sewn together at the hemline. Then the side seam was sewn and the lining was flipped inside. I just had to insure that none of the lining fabric was hanging from the bottom of the sleeve...careful pressing and pulling the lining up a little solved this challenge.

Lining the dress:
Most of my hand stitching occurred during the lining insertion. After adding the lining to the bodice pieces I had to figure out a way to add the band and skirt lining pieces to the dress. I ended up hand stitching the entire skirt lining into the dress at the waistline and at the zipper tape. To make sure that the dress would not fall apart - hey I haven't hand stitched an entire lining in quite some time! - I let it hang for a day. When I woke up in the morning and it was still together I felt it was safe to proceed!

Extra Details:

The dress has side slits instead of a center back slit. Just doing something a little different so that each version of the dress doesn't look the same.

I had a real challenge with the bodice fronts meeting and pulling. After I stitched the two pieces together, I noticed some serious pulling happening only on one side. The stitches were ripped out and I finally decided to just tack the fronts together in key places. I'm not sure that I solved the problem, I just "made it work!"

There are three things that I love about this dress...

1. It has some weight to it...meaning that I won't be cold in it. The wool blend fabric is a medium weight fabric and then the polyester charmeuse lining adds to the heft of the dress.

2. I love how the polyester charmeuse lining feels in this dress. It's like slipping into a nightgown. I bought three of those polyester fabrics from Fabric Mart and now think I should have bought one of each pattern especially since they were only $1.99 per yard.

3. This dress as photographed with pearls will be so appropriate in my workplace. It has that "Corporate Chicness" that I am striving to attain in my work gear and will be perfect in any work situation. Plus I'm not dialing up the same ole, same ole that my peers are wearing.

So that is my first project of 2008, you can see more pictures of the construction process in my Flickr photo album. I have two unfinished garments from 2007 that I really should work on but honestly I don't know if I will. I haven't decided whether to let inspiration move me for my next piece or obligation. Guess that will be tomorrow's post!

And so it begins...

I haven't sewn in three weeks, so my cutting table was buried under fabric, patterns and miscelleanous life stuff!

And this is how it looks now....cleaned and waiting for me to get started! I have ideas...boy do I have ideas...I mean loads of ideas! *LOL* I just have to figure out which one I should start with...'cause all of them want to come out and play!

However, the items that beat their way to the forefront of my mind...generally get mentally sewn up sometime during my busy day...either on the bus ride to work or from work...while I'm in a particularly boring meeting (who knew that Executive Assts would attend so many meetings!) or sometimes even while I'm sleeping! I've learned to keep a pad by the bed so that when I wake up and realize that I have solved a problem in my sleep, I can immediately write down the solution!

I love mental sewing...when I walk through the construction process, work out fit challenges or design changes and mentally catalogue what fabric and notions I have on hand and which things need to be purchased. All of my really great ideas are mentally sewn and carefully walked through long before I touch the fabric.

And then I make a roadmap for the garment...pictured above is how I plot out a garment. This particular photo was done in my sewing notebook but I also have a sketch book that I use for this purpose. Swatches, a really poor drawing, lots of notes on construction and sometimes even a list of things to be purchased are included in the roadmap. I refer to this constantly when making the garment...that way I don't forget any of the ideas or thoughts I had when I mentally sewed the garment.

So today on the next to last day of 2007, I will begin working on my first project for 2008! Stay tuned...there is more to come!

As 2007 draws to a close...

As 2007 draws to a close, I want to say thank you to all of you who venture by daily, weekly or even monthly and read my ramblings! When I am surfing the internet and read blogs by others who reference a post of mine or say that they are inspired by something I did, pointing other readers to my blog I am truly humbled. The internet is such a huge place and to know that it makes someone's day on the other side of the world to read one of my posts is amazing!

Mostly though I want to thank everyone who has taken the time to post a thought to a question I've asked...to compliment me on a garment that I've sewn...or just to say "me too!" When I read over some of the posts from this year and the wonderful and thoughtful comments that YOU have taken the time to write...it just makes my heart sing!

Finally, thank you to all of you who inspire me! The best thing about the internet is that I no longer sew in a vaccuum! I have sewing friends that I can visit daily for encouragement, inspiration, companionship and encouragement to add more to my fabric collection - Shannon! To all of those I had the chance to meet with this year, thank you for spending time with me! I hope I get to meet even more of you in 2008!

I pray that 2008 brings you all the things that you hope for creativewise in your sewing! I also believe that we will all grow in our talent and produce wonderful, amazing and high quality garments!

Now back to sewing....

2007 - A Recap

2007 has been a very good sewing year for me. I have added to and shared from my fabric collection...I have made some new sewing friendships...and I have challenged myself to sew more "quality" garments.

At the beginning of the year, I set a goal to make 100 garments in 2007. I abandoned that goal quite early in the year instead opting for quality sewing...making garments that had the best sewing techniques in them that I could do!

After reviewing the year, I believe that I did accomplish some amazing sewing feats...and if I had to use two phrases to describe my sewing in 2007, the phrases would be "TNT Patterns" and "Adaptability."

TNT Patterns - (tried and true)

I have worked the heck out of my TNT patterns this year. No pattern classification was exempt ~ from tops to dresses to pants and skirts, they all made an appearance in 2007. Some of the patterns were used to expand my wardrobe and some were adapted to become something new.

Adaptability

I believe that I have grown in my ability to change one of my TNT Patterns, turning it into something totally different from the original. This year has seen me move from one plateau to another when adapting a look from a picture into an actual garment. I want to use this "talent" even more in 2008, though it figured prominently in my top five garments for 2007!

Without further ado, here is the listing of my top five garments in 2007:

1. The "Corporate Chic" Wardrobe

from the 2007 Timmel SWAP

This wardrobe was completed totally from scratch. I planned, sewed and entered an eleven piece collection in the Timmel SWAP. Even though my collection did not win any of the prizes, it did accomplish its main purpose and that was to elevate the level of my work wardrobe. This collection was finished early in April and there weren't too many days left to wear it since it was a fall/winter wardrobe. However, it has played a prominent part in this Fall's wardrobe making me appropriately dressed in all of my work situations.

2. Brown Eyelet Dress & Jacket

(completed items 20 & 21)

I made this outfit during my Spring Sewing Vacay. It makes my 2007 best of list because it is a totally trendy outfit that was made in time to actually wear during the trend! *LOL* I also used a "classical" slant when constructing it so that it would work well beyond the trendy curve. The other thing that I love about this outfit is the well thought out embellishments, the fit of the dress and jacket and how easy the outfit wears!

3. The Chanel Knock-off Dress

(completed item 25)

I know that a few other sewists have reached that "I really know that I can sew" plateau this year! They constructed a garment that just stretched their talent and abilities to the limit...that was the Chanel dress for me! Even now I am astonished that I was able to take a couple of pictures from People Magazine and turn what I saw into a wearable, well-fitted garment! That three day exercise reinforced and solidified my talent to me! Now five months later, I can't wait for spring to come so that I can wear the dress again!

4. Jackie O Retro Suit

(completed items 34 & 35)

Sometimes I think I invested as much time in this suit as I did in my SWAP collection! It was a concept that I lived with for several months before it came to fruition. I used techniques that I had never tried before ~ quilting the lining ala Chanel ~ some interesting bias and grain treatments for the skirt ~ and once more adapting a picture into a finished garment. The other thrilling aspect of this garment that wasn't thought of at all during the planning phrase, was how much it inspired other sewists! This suit cemented my workday transformation and I'm so thrilled with it and everything I learned during the construction process!

5. The Coldwater Creek Inspired Suit

(completed items 40 & 42)

There are two things that I love about this suit...one is that it uses the exact same jacket pattern as the one used in the Jackie O Retro suit. However, each jacket is totally different from the other! The second thing that I love is the subtle use of trim in this jacket. I am a total embellishment girl. I love adding trim to things and the use of the large gold braid and the buttons on this jacket totally makes the suit for me. Add to it my TNT 4-gore skirt and again I am not dialing up the same ole, same ole corporate black suit...yet, I am just as polished and professional looking as my peers. This suit is part of a wardrobe which needs a few more pieces to be completed but it is probably the last "quality" piece that I will work on in 2007!

Now of the 48 garments that I have made this year, these are not the only stand-out pieces. However, I think these pieces symbolize the direction that my sewing is moving in and how much I've grown. Upon reviewing the sewn garments for this year, it is causing me to set different sewing goals for 2008...but overall, I am very pleased with my 2007 output...and believe that I accomplished my primary goal ~ to produce quality sewn garments this year!

So how about you? What did you learn sewingwise in 2007? What technique that you learned or garment that you constructed in 2007 are you most proud of? Most importantly though, did you enjoy your sewing journeys this year?

Because I certainly did!

The History of a Pattern

Cennetta, The Mahogany Stylist, has been periodically eliminating excess patterns from her pattern stash. She has shown quite a few vintage patterns in her giveaway. My interest in vintage patterns has grown since Summerset began featuring instruction sheets from a few of her Ebay finds. Those instruction sheets have intrigued me because of the techniques and details available in the directions.

So I requested two of the patterns offered by Cennetta. The first one, Vogue 7940, arrived in Monday's mail. As expected, the instruction sheet was chockful of directions ~ even complete step by step instructions on how to make bound buttonholes. That double-sided sheet of paper was a virtual instruction manual, so unlike the instruction sheets that are in today's patterns.

Due to the Christmas Eve festivities at my apartment, I only got around to pulling the instruction sheet out later that night. It was my reading material as I drifted off to sleep. Yesterday morning as I was getting out of bed, I noticed a brown slip of paper on the floor near the pattern file.

When I picked it up I found this ~ it's the actual receipt for the pattern...which was purchased at Marshall Field & Co. on April 4, 1953. The receipt details the floor, the department, the register number and of course the cost of the pattern including tax - a grand 61 cents!

If the pattern was interesting before, it now became a gem! But even more than that it got me to wondering about its journey from Marshall Field's in Chicago to Somerset, New Jersey. See this pattern was purchased in Chicago, six years before I was even born. My mom was only 12! The pattern was cut out and it appears to have been used...so I wonder what the owner made from it!

Now 54 years later it is in NJ in my hot little hands and I am curious about its sojourn from a sewist in another generation and time to a sewist in the 21st Century. I now have to make a garment from this pattern...somehow it only seems fitting to close the sewing circle!

"I Wish You A Merry Christmas..."

I wanted to wish you and your families a very Merry Christmas!

May the light of Christmas abide in each of your homes...

May the joy of the season brightened your paths this week...

and may you get everything that your heart desires!

Fabric Euphoria

Ah come on don't smile, or turn your nose up, or even think here she goes again...'cause y'all know I'm a fabric girl! I have shared my obsession with the creative and intoxicating powers of fabric with you for almost two years now. I have shared my wonderful fabric closet with you and even SOME, yes only some, of the fabrics I have purchased.

However, today I wanted to talk about that moment of anticipation that you get when you order a new fabric from the internet, or the split second feeling of anticipation you feel when you step over the threshold of a fabric store, or even the deep breathe that you take when you receive a package from a friend and you know that it contains fabric.

Now you know what I'm talking about...its that split second when your heart beats just a little bit faster and your breathe comes a little quicker, and all your senses are standing on alert...its Fabric Euphoria! Its hopes and dreams, anticipation and possibilities...its when all your creative senses are on high alert and you KNOW something wonderful is about to happen.

Fabric Euphoria definitely occurs when you are alone but man on man does it seem to descend as a magical cloud filled with fairy dust when you are with someone else, be it friend or mentor, or with a group of like minded individuals! Everyone in one room, on one accord, looking for the perfect piece or pieces of fabric...yeah, Fabric Euphoria is definitely around!

So Fabric Euphoria is what I felt when I walked into my living room the other night and saw the two boxes of fabric waiting...several thoughts quickly flitted through my mind...relief that it was here...anticipation ~ because who knew what they actually looked like...joy ~ fabric was here...

So for Julie ~ here is what came:



From Fabric.com
3 yards of blue/white argyle print flannel
3 yards of blue/white bandana print flannel
2 yards of sports equipment print flannel
4 yards red Italian wool/angora knit
2 yards blue Italian wool/angora knit

From Fabric Mart
3 yards black wool crepe blend



6 yards black mediumweight wool crepe
(please refer to The Quest post!)
5 yards Anna Sui print silk charmeuse for lining
4 yards Anna Sui print silk charmeuse for lining
(boy have I dipped into that well enough times!)

After a very early morning in the mall with my mom and sister (ummmm we left home at 6:30 am), I really have an urge to sew and the unfinished Simplicity 3631 black wool crepe dress is calling my name...maybe I will give in and get reacquainted with my sewing machine especially since my Christmas shopping is finally DONE! Hope yours is too!

And sometime during this festive season, I hope a little cloud of magical fairy dust descends upon you and you experience Fabric Euphoria, too!

Tory Burch and the Color Blue

Tory Birch is one of my favorite designers, her fall line inspired me to make this dress. I love her use of color, her clean and simple shapes and the silhouettes of her garments. So when I saw her on the January issue of Town and Country Magazine, I had to snatch it up!

After reading the article, I like her even more. Here is one of her quotes,

"...But for me, luxury is not something you can buy. It's about having personal style and living your life based on your individual aesthetic. It is not about spending money but about having taste and being creative. Luxury is knowing your taste, developing it over time and understaning how to apply it to every aspect of your life."

She has a "Book of Inspiration" that contains tear sheets from magazines, pictures of paintings, catalogue pages and old photographs...now doesn't that just sound like you and me! She makes wearable clothes - tunics, dresses in bright colors and created a product that women wanted but were unable to find!

If you can get your hands on a copy of the magazine, please try...it's a wonderful article! And if you want to see what she actually designs - visit her website!

The Color Blue

So what's up with the Color Blue part of the title...this morning I was getting my daily dose of intelligent news from The New York Times online and I saw this article, "Pantone's Color of the Year Is..."

BLUE!

Yeap, there is an entire article in the NY Times devoted to the fact that Pantone is promoting blue as the "Color of the Year for 2008" So I guess that means that we should be hitting up our fabric collections and all the bricks 'n mortar as well as internet fabric sources for fabrics in shades of blue...but wait...not just any shade of blue...it has to be blue iris, or No. 18-3943!

So there you have it...you are now in the know...Blue is the color for 2008! Wanna know what it was for 2007? Chili Pepper Red!

Sooooo, I know I promised more about fabric but let's just say that there are two medium size boxes of fabric laying in my living room floor right now purchased from the whirlwind of 20% off discounts and coupons in my hand over the last couple of days! You know I have got to do my part to keep the fabric industry thriving! *LOL*

Update on my Winter Sewing Break

I have worked out the three pieces I want to work on - possibly four - and I need to pick up some ambience lining for one of the two jackets that I want to make. The projects are pretty involved but I am looking forward to working on them and adding some new suit pieces to my work wardrobe. Otherwise there is no sewing going on here...maybe after Christmas!

Have you seen?

First - have you seen Phyllis' amazing Holiday Party Dress over at The Sewing Divas? I love that she shared the total process of making the dress...explaining how and why she did what she did and even giving a few book references! This is one amazing dress from a very simple Vogue pattern!

Second - my girl Isabelle of Kitty Couture has finished her Simplicity 3631 jacket! Ooooolala! I love how she handled the sleeve width issue...surf on over and see it! Its a wonderful interpretation of an awesome jacket.

Next - Christina at Assorted Notions has made the kewlest winter coat! I know that there have been several other versions of this coat made - Sigrid - and I know that Cindy has one up her sleeve - but I really like the fabric that Christina used. She has lots of pics up on her blog of the construction techniques she used, go by and see it!

And finally, this is the jumper that everyone is making! There are six reviews of this jumper on Patternreview even though I have personally spotted a few in blogland that haven't been reviewed - Barbara.

On the accessories scene there are two of note:

Ann's LaRue bag for her BFF! I hated this bag in the movie, "The Devil Wears Prada" and most of the versions that I've seen since. However, I can truly appreciate the ying and the yang of this version ~ pettably soft on one side and smooth as wine on the other! Just skip over that nasty Patriots obsession she has going on and check out her BFF's Christmas present! *LOL*

Vicki's aprons that she made for her co-workers...again aprons per say are not a favorite of mine but I can so enjoy the splendor of her ruffled aprons! So check them out! Besides isn't that the coolest thing to do, to make such wonderful gifts for the people you work with...

Last but certainly not least...Tany! If you have not managed to visit Tany's world, all I gotta say is what is wrong with you!? What rock have you been under?! *LOL* Cause I want to be Tany when I grow up! My goodness gracias me can this woman sew! And not only does she sew at a level I can only hope to attain but she is gracious and kind, supportive and loving, and very giving of herself and her sewing knowledge! So if you haven't visited her before ~ go and be enthralled and if you have go again anyway! *LOL*

Also, thank you to everyone who posted a comment on my last post, "What do you love about sewing?" There are some amazing answers there...many that just made my heart sing with understanding, acknowledgement and joy! If you've read the post but not the comments, get a cuppa, open the comments box up and enjoy!

I'm out...off to bed to go back to work tomorrow to make that money! 'Cause I got fabric to buy! *LOL* More about that later...

What do you love about sewing?

It's a cold and dreary day here in New Jersey. The wind is blowing and there is a snowy, sleety rain falling. It is the perfect day to sew but here I am under the covers, watching "The Lord of the Rings" trilogy on television and planning what I'm going to sew during my winter break.

I know that I've asked a version of this question before in a post called, "Why do you sew?" But I am refining the question today ~ "What do you love about sewing?"

So on this dreary day when I have absolutely no desire to sew, can you share a little inspiration with me and talk back to me? What entices you about sewing? What inspires you? Exactly what do you love about sewing?

Okay peoples, I'm laying in bed with my laptop at the ready waiting on your answers...

Signe Chanel

There is a discussion on Stitchers Guild about a PBS Program called Haute Couture. This discussion has been going on since the summer and I've patiently waited for my local PBS Station to air the program. It is a very interesting program about the women who can afford to purchase these exquisite couture outfits, their views on couture and their collections.

However, during the course of the conversation on Stitchers Guild, TerriK discussed a set of videos that are presently being shown on You Tube called "Signe Chanel". Now I don't have much free time and I waited until this morning to watch them. Terri said they are an amazing look at the inside of Karl Legerfeld's House of Chanel and she was sooooo right!

Karl allowed the cameras to go behind the scenes into the workrooms, with the publicity people, the braidmaker and the shoemaker. It is an awesome series of videos about how one of his couture collections come together. So first, thank you Terri for pointing out these videos! I only seem to visit You Tube when someone either sends me a link or points me there in a specific direction. But these videos and the last couple of hours that I've spent watching them was well worth the trip!

And for all of you who haven't yet seen the collection of videos here is a link:

YouTube Signe Chanel Videos

Also, if you want to see the Couture and RTW Chanel collections, please check out the photos at:

Chanel at Style.com

I hope you enjoy the videos as much as I did! Even if fashion isn't your thing, check out the videos just because they let you go inside the atelier of a major Parisian fashion house and see what happens!

Just from watching them, my mind is bursting with creativity and inspiration! And, I have to remember to slow down and enjoy the process because when you take your time amazing things happen!

Reading Material - Sewing Style

I am a huge proponent of supporting the sewing magazines that are published because whether we sewists are aware of it or not, we are considered a niche market...meaning that the general public doesn't go out looking to buy a sewing magazine. Our magazines are not bought in the numbers that general magazines like People, Time, Newsweek or even the fashion magazines are purchased. So anytime I can highlight and support a wonderful issue of a sewing publication I will...

First up:

Sew Stylish's Embellishment Issue - Winter 2007

Of course if you've been sewing awhile some of these techniques aren't new to you, but I am championing and will continue to champion this magazine because of the collection of information it provides to new sewists and those returning to sewing. I believe that it is very kewl to have one focal point to go to as a reference source. Besides the wonderful embellishment techniques featured in this issue there are two other things I want to point out:

1. In Amber Eden's, the editor of Threads, welcome message she outlines the upcoming issues of Sew Stylish for next year! So hip hip hooray, this wonderful magazine is going to quarterly issues and NOT disappearing! The issues for 2008 will be:

*Quick Stuff to Sew in February 2008

*Spring Fashion in April 2008

*Accessories in June 2008

*Fall Fashion in August 2008

2. In Amber's p.s., she states that all of the fabric in the issue came from Metro Textiles! This is a fantabolious shout out to a wonderful fabric resource and a very kewl gentleman!

The other "craft" magazine is called "Piecework." I became aware of this magazine because of a blog post that Liana wrote. There is also a conversation taking place on Stitchers Guild right now about the article. Claire Schaeffer writes about how to spot a fake Chanel which is especially pertinent to our sewing community since several sewists have just recently completed their versions of Chanel-type jackets. There are also two other articles in this magazine that caught my attention, one about repairing a damaged crochet tablecloth and the other about collecting vintage sewing tools!

Finally the book, "The Collection" has landed in my mailbox. I have wanted to read this book since reviews started showing up in sewing blogland. Now it's in my hot little hands! I will read it right after I finish up "The Memory Keeper's Daughter" by Kim Edwards which I am really enjoying and highly recommend. Once, I've read it I will review it here and work on getting it passed onto someone else.

Sooooo, if you are interested in Chanel jacket construction or if you want to learn and/or review embellishment techniques, I hope you will pick up one or both of these magazines! Good sales of a sewing publication is a good thing for the rest of us sewists!

Enjoy your sewing journeys!

I punted!

Or no I did not wear the black wool crepe version of Simplicity 3631 to the Holiday Party...

See it was like this...I was suppose to be sewin' this weekend...instead I read a book, took a nap, cleaned my room...and finally sat down to sew on Sunday evening. By this time I had already decided that I had plenty of garments that I could wear instead of the dress so this is where I left it...


BTW, it works really great with the Simplicity 3631 jacket I previously made and with the Jackie O retro black/white jacket. And I love the black pleather detailing...I also added the darts back into the skirt front as they are in the original pattern. I couldn't make the exact same dress as the tan one could I?

So what did I wear instead? Why my black Tamoutsu dress from my Timmel SWAP entry with the reversible dress underneath it.

I looked quite nice without the pressure of rushing a dress through...so I will finish the black version up sometime soon because it's now time to make pjs for Christmas gifts!

Saturday Morning Ramblings...

These are just some of my Saturday morning ramblings as I clean my room and put away things from the week...

I don't know about you but Monday through Friday is all about my job...I leave home early and return late so that if I want to see a TV show, spend any time on the internet or even read a book, I don't have many hours left at the end of my day to do it. So what ends up suffering is putting away my clothing that I've worn that day. Usually by the end of the week every coat I've worn is tossed across the loveseat which is right by the steps to the front door...makes it real easy to find in the morning as I am speed racing out the door! And every outfit is placed across a chair in my bedroom...which means Saturday morning is usually spent re-hanging and putting everything away. It's usually during this time that I get ideas for things that need to be replaced or additional basics I want to add to my wardrobe.

This morning I realized that my winter break is fast approaching and I need to make a plan for what I want to sew. I am sure that some of you are wondering why I'm not taking "proper leave the house" vacations but as a single mom with two college age daughters and tuition to pay, I am "sacrificing" those type of vacations for my daughters' educations. I guess it is a sacrifice but since I'm gaining so much sewing time I just have nothing to complain about! *LOL*

With another 10 days of sewing coming up, I think I am going to concentrate on some pantsuits and finishing up the Coldwater Creek Wardrobe. I have two jacket ideas in mind...one of course is kinda involved...I want to try some of the quilting that Summerset is presently using in her Midnight Gardens outfit. I saw this great jacket on QVC by Bradley Bayou...his version was in a quilted leather but I think I want to try it with the chocolate wool crepe and a brown silk charmeuse and some type of layer sandwiched between them. This is just a working idea and may get scrapped because its not feasible but if I can work it out, it should make a fabulous jacket that will work well with the other pieces of the CC Wardrobe.

Coldwater Creek Inspiration Wardrobe ~

Shannon asked for a picture of the completed items in the wardrobe so far, so here it is:

Front left to right:

The jacket that started the wardrobe from Vogue OOP 2285 and the matching 4 gore TNT lined skirt, the brown sueded silk SW Mission Tank Top, the lined tank top with the lace trim from Simplicity 3631, the longer twinset from Burda OOP 8869, the Simplicity 3631 dress in a tan tropical wool, another SW Mission Tank in a brown/beige rayon knit with brown ruffled trim and the chocolate wool crepe lined pants from my TNT pattern.

I have three more pieces to sew to complete the wardrobe ~ the lined straight skirt from the tan tropical wool, the chocolate wool crepe jacket (mentioned above) and the brown sueded shirt jacket from Burda OOP 3265. Since I have no deadline for these pieces I am constructing them as the mood strikes me. They all work together and can be worn now and as each piece is completed it just extends the other pieces wearability.

Christmas Sewing ~

Yes, I do a very little amount of Christmas sewing. This year it will only be flannel pj bottoms...but since I am known for them in my family...I will be mass producing pj bottoms next weekend. I am even adding a few toddler size pairs for a co-worker! For flannel fabric purchases via the internet, I think Fabric.com has the best selections. Just type "flannel" into the search box and pages and pages of amazing colors, textures and patterns show up! After going through my flannel collection (yes, I have one of those too!) I've found that I need to add a few more pieces to it to round out my Christmas present list...so an order will go into Fabric.com today.

The Test from Tuesday's post ~

Thanks Ann for locating the author of the test, "Also under the documents properties the author is Judy Hatch from East High School."

Now for my results...on some levels this test was very basic and I think a great one for beginners to take. On another level it was a great refresher 'cause I know that a lot of these things I don't "think" about when I sew or use them, I just do them!

Nancy from Encue Creations pointed out that there is no answer key and she is correct...however, I thought that if anyone had a question about one of them that maybe we as a sewing community could answer it. And to that end, there were three that made me go "huh?!"

Question #35

Stitching on the cut edge of fabric, used to prevent fraying is:

a. Topstitching

b. Grading/layering

c. Edgestitching

d. Understitching

I didn't think any of these answers were correct. What did you think?

Question #47

All of the following statements regarding seams are true EXCEPT:

a. Stitching with the grain prevents the fabric from stretching.

b. The standard seam allowance is 5/8" but on some patterns it's only 1/4"

c. Watch the needle plate markings, not the needle when sewing.

d. Backstitching is usually done only at the top of the seams.

I thought it was D, but thoughts anyone?

Question #49

When replacing the sewing machine needle, it is important that the:

a. Groove side of the needle faces the thread.

b. Groove side of the needle faces away from the thread.

c. Needle is inserted to the top of the socket

d. A and C

Again, I thought this information varied by the type of sewing machine you used but if there is a standard answer, I sure would like to know!

Those were the brain twisters for me. Did anyone else have one they didn't know the answer to or wanted to discuss?

Shout out of the week ~

Goes to my girl, Cidell of Miss Celie's Pants, for making the most kick-*ss evening dress! For someone who has never made one before, she did an amazing job. Go over and check out, "The Queen of the Night!"

Today I am working on my black wool crepe version of the Simplicity 3631 dress for my job's Christmas Event. Hopefully pics tomorrow since I've already made this one! And if I get real adventurous - read that to mean get off the computer relatively soon - hopefully another dress for a Christmas party I have Friday evening.

Enjoy your sewing journeys!

The Quest

As a working woman, I have a pretty extensive wardrobe. I am sure that it is smaller than some and larger than others. My excuse is that I don't like wearing the same thing often. The truth is probably hovering somewhere around the fact that I am a fabricaholic and a clothes hog! *LOL*

At the beginning of every fall/winter season the quest for me begins..."What is my quest, you ask?" Well it is to end up with five pair of lined black pants. Now that seems like a relatively easy thing to accomplish! You would think so right? But not for me...I am easily led astray by other colors and possibilities...plus even though lately I seem to be sewing a lot of black, I am not a huge fan of it. So every fall, the quest begins anew.

Now for this working woman, five pairs of black lined pants preferably from wool crepe equate to five pairs of well fitted jeans. Black pants work with almost everything in my wardrobe and they really fit into in my work environment! They are such a basic...they can be dressed up or down. They can be part of a suit or work for a business casual Friday...they work for a somber, funeral event or work great for an after work sexyfunkykewl event. Now why do I need five pair - why to keep the drycleaning bill down silly!

Have I ever reached my goal....no! I will start out the season believing that this might be the year that I will actually achieve it...and then one pair will shred or get a hole in it or the iron will burn them...and that sets me back a pair. I know you are wondering why I don't just sit down one three day weekend and make 5 pair...good idea ~ but have you ever tried to sew FIVE pair of lined black pants in a couple of days...can we say cross-eyed!!!!

So where am I this year in the quest...I have three pairs of lined black wool crepe pants...and a fourth pair cut out...not sewn but cut out! So do you think sewing them up is on my list this weekend...heck no! I want to make the Simplicity 3631 dress that I cut out in black wool crepe to wear to our Corporate Christmas Event. I have this idea to look very Audrey Hepburn kewl in my black dress with pearls at my neckline and dripping from my earlobes.

But I am close...closer this year than ever before! And I think I might actually achieve my goal this year. I might actually end up with five pairs of lined black pants, ready for any occasion...one can only hope...

So this leads me to my question for the day...What article of clothing would you duplicate five times for your wardrobe? And why? Or is it just not that important to you?

A Little Info and a Challenge!

First there were several questions posed from my last couple of posts...

Directional Sewing/Stitching
The first was about directional sewing...which I subsequently found out after a little internet research is also called directional stitching. These were the two explanations that I liked best - italics are mine:

Directional stitching: 1 All sewing lines follow the direction of the fabric grain – also known as ‘stroking the cat’ (to find the direction of the grain, run finger along cut edge and stitch in direction in which fibres curl smoothly). 2. In dressmaking, directional stitching refers to stitching every seam in the same direction, ie: all seams waist to hem in order to prevent seams puckering or stretching. 3. On a sewing machine, this refers to multi-directional stitching including side to side (not just forwards and backwards).
http://www.isew.co.uk/sarah_testing/dictionary-p-00017.htm#D

Directional stitching - Stitching with the grain in woven fabrics. In knits, stitching all seams in the same direction
http://www.sewing.org/enthusiast/html/el_terminology.html

These websites had actually pictures and descriptions of directional sewing/stitching:
http://www.timmelfabrics.com/knitslessontwo.htm
discusses directional sewing in knits

about.com’s instructions on directional sewing:
http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/directionalstit.htm

Taunton has a book called Sew Basic that also discusses directional sewing. And there are three blogs on the internet that talk about directional sewing: Shannon (Hungry Zombie Couture), Tany’s (Couture et Tricot) and yours truly.

Did I give you enough links? *LOL* I started looking this up and was amazed at what I found though most of the good stuff was further into the pages of the Google's hits!

Okay, next - Seam Integrity...sorry no Googled links for this because I can tell this to you in several short sentences.

The seam allowances are drafted into the pattern to serve a purpose. And seam integrity is always being true to the drafted seam allowance....not shortening it, not messing with it, etc. sewing it exactly as the pattern dictates. For example, if a pattern has a 5/8" seam allowance always sew it 5/8. Or if it's 3/8" sew it that amount, do not tinker with it, hence the term seam integrity.

Of course this leads to Nancy's question about how do you fit if you don't take it from the seam allowances...this opens an entire suitcase full of worms...a Pandora's box of fit if you will! But briefly, IMHO true fit should be achieved by either slicing and dicing the pattern, using the pivot and slide method that Nancy Zieman teaches, or by altering the pattern piece in some manner. This is a very brief description because posts and posts and posts can be written about how to achieve a good fitting pattern. I think each sewist has or will have a method that they have perfected and that works for them and I WOULD NOT tell anyone that the method they use is wrong because fit is sooooooo subjective!

However, I will tell you that before I learned more about fitting patterns that I always altered a pattern at the seam allowances, too. Then I would wonder why my side seams or back seams were wonky. So instead, I will share with you a few book titles from my sewing library on fit!

1. How to Make Clothes that fit and flatter
Author: Adele Margolis

2. The Busy Woman's Fitting Book
Authors: Nancy Zieman with Robbie Fanning

3. Fitting Finesse
Author: Nancy Zieman

4. Every Sewer's Guide to Perfect Fit
(I think this was reissued under another name!)
Authors: Mary Morris & Sally McCann

5. Fabulous Fit
Author: Judith Rasband

6. Fit for Real People
Authors: Pati Palmer & Marta Alto

7. Singer Sewing Reference Library - The Perfect Fit

8. Fit and Fabric from Threads Magazine

Finally, the challenge! During my googling frenzy, I happened upon a sewing test on this site, [DOC]
Name - 2:23pm
File Format: Microsoft Word - View as HTMLDirectional sewing lines. Notches that are used for matching pattern pieces. Pattern decorations. Used for shortening or lengthening. ...my.uen.org/documentsDisplay/downloadfile?userid=ostlerh&documentid=3058123 - to make this enormous link work just click on the Name-2:23pm portion. I have tried really hard to give as much "copyright credit" as I can to this googled entry by listing the entire link. If anyone knows who the test belongs to and can send me some information about it so that I can properly credit the author of the test, I would appreciate it.

The Challenge:
There is a sewing test here. You should take it and see how well you do. I'm gonna take it too and we can post our scores - let's say 2 pts for every right answer - in the comments section. Ready, set, go!

An Oldie but Goody

In my quest to overhaul my work wardrobe and "upgrade" it...I found this jacket in the back of my closet. It was my very first attempt at tailoring, constructed during a weekend session with Colleen Jones several years ago...egads more than several, more like seven!!!! Wow! I didn't realize that it had been that long.

Anyway, the fabric was a gift from a colleague when I worked at the button company. She had previously worked at a menswear firm and brought me several shopping bags with bows on them for Christmas. None of the pieces in the bags were more than 2 or 2.5 yards in length and a few pieces still reside unsewn in my collection...especially since they were classic menswear fabrics, they just don't have a shelf life or expiration date.

During the weekend session with Colleen I learned many things about tailoring since I was a complete neophyte. Things like a back interfacing piece cut from muslin, how to make piping from pleather and what filling inserts to use, how to interface the hemlines (both sleeve and jacket) and how to bag a lining.

As well as learning many things about my own sewing ability...the words "Seam Integrity" still echo in my mind. See back in the day, before I fine tuned my fitting abilities, I would regularly take some extra space from my seam allowances. I was told in no uncertain terms that Seam Integrity needed to be preserved and that there were other places and options for fitting. Another term that comes to mind is "Directional Sewing" and its purposes in elevating the look of a sewn garment. Needless to say that I learned a lot in that weekend that still affects how I sew today.

Last winter I pulled the jacket from the depths of my closet and wore it. Since then, it has found its way back into my normal clothing rotation. This is how I look after 14 hours in it today.

Pattern:

Vogue 7022 - OOP Sandra Betzina's Today's Fit Jacket - the pattern was issued in 1999. The pattern envelope describes it as a loose-fitting, partially interfaced, lined, below hip jacket has shoulder pads, princess seams, welt or patch pockets and long two-piece efffect sleeves.

Fabric:

100% wool menswear fabric

Notions:

3/4" shoulder pads, pleather piping, 3 leather buttons, rayon lining

This jacket stands the test of time...for the things I learned...the construction techniques used to make it and how a classic piece of clothing is still in style SEVEN years later. I didn't wear it much after I first made it. It didn't really fit my business casual lifestyle. However, it works now and I am even contemplating making another one from the SB pattern.

Back to Basics

I didn't do much sewing this weekend...not because there isn't inspiration or desire but mostly because I just had a need to veg. Maybe it was the four days of sewing last weekend or maybe I just really wanted to finish reading my book...Exile by Richard North Patterson...Excellent book, BTW!

I had been mentally sewing an idea all week and even discussed with Marji but I will sew it at another time because it was more involved than what I wanted to deal with this weekend. So I took it back to basics....I made a simple lined straight skirt from an awesome piece of fabric.

Now the interesting thing about this fabric is that it just made it into the house. I purchased it from Metro Textiles on Monday evening with Cindy from the blog, "Wall Street by Day: Hard Core Crafter by Night." It was Cindy's first trip to Metro Textiles but I'm sure that it won't be her last! *smile* While I was waiting for Cindy to arrive, Kashi of course tortured me with some amazing pieces and even though I showed some restraint ~ 13 yards did come home with me.

I dare anyone to visit Kashi and not walk out with something! The only times I have ever made it out of that man's shop without a lot of fabric is when there were so many women there that he couldn't pay attention to me! It also doesn't hurt that he knows exactly what I want and will bring it to me without me asking...fabric temptation in human form! *LOL*

In this instance, basic is a relative term because nothing I make these days seems to be constructed without some involved technique! When I look back on how I use to sew a straight skirt, I realize that I put much more time, effort and use more complicated techniques than I did before. I don't know if this is the result of the internet and the freeflow of information available - along with pictures - or if its a maturing of my craft.

The interesting detail in this skirt is the twill tape that I added to the waist's seamline before attaching the waistband. I have noticed that during the day the waistline tends to spread on my wool skirts that have a waistband and zipper closure, not alot but a noticeable amount to me.

And on one of the sewing boards, I think it was the old Sewing World board, someone mentioned adding twill tape to their waistline to stabilize it. I have wanted to try this method for awhile but haven't made a straight skirt in a minute. This was my opportunity to try this, so I did. I will have to let you know how it fared at a later date because I'm not wearing the skirt in the next couple of days due to the freezing temps here on the East Coast.

Here is a picture of the finished skirt. I know it's hanging on the hanger but as soon as I wear it I will take an "action" shot! *LOL*

Pattern:

TNT straight skirt pattern

Fabric:

100% embroidered chocolate wool from Metro Textiles

Notions:

9" zipper, leftover medium weight satin lining material, twill tape, 2 - 3/8" buttons from the collection

It was a lovely way to spend a chilly Sunday afternoon. Sooooo, how did you spend your Sunday afternoon?