Italian doublefaced wool from Metro Textiles
Bias binding made from fabric
scraps of black silk organza for interfacing
1.5 yards rayon seam binding
5 - 1" buttons
12" of 1/4" elastic
As mentioned in the previous posts on this jacket, I've changed the jacket fronts so that they have a button front. I've also omitted the collar in this version, too...although I really like the collar and it will probably make an appearance in a future jacket.
This jacket is unlined since the fabric is a doublefaced wool. I could have used either the lighter side or the black side but I went with the darker side because it fits into my wardrobe. I also thought about using flat felled seams and making the jacket reversible. This idea stayed with me for quite awhile but when I went to construct the garment, that idea just wasn't speaking to me. So the darker side became the predominant one.
The sleeve hems seemed wider and fuller than on this jacket...maybe it's because I made them longer and to be folded back on themselves last time. For this version, I could have taken the sleeve seams in and slimmed them down but I wasn't feeling that. Instead I remembered a Vogue pattern where the jacket's sleeves had an elastic casing in the hemline and I thought it would be an interesting look. So I made a one inch casing and added the elastic to it. I love this look and it's different from anything presently in my wardrobe.
I also didn't use any of the facings provided in the pattern envelope. I wanted a clean finishing that wouldn't clash with the inside of the jacket. After fishing around in my bias binding trims drawer, it hit me that I could reverse the fabric and make bias binding that would be perfect for the jacket. Since the fabric is a little thick, it was challenging to make the bias binding. I needed a lot of steam and a very liberal use of my clapper to get it to lay properly but it was worth the effort because I like the effect on the jacket front.
Alot of buttons were auditioned for the front of the jacket. I wanted them to be as distinctive as the fabric yet able to hold their own. I had these buttons in a black outer ring/white inner ring combination but they faded into the fabric where these stood out but still mimicked the pattern of the fabric that was rather kewl. I also made the buttonholes so that they run vertically down the front of the jacket instead of horizontally. Again, something a little different from the norm.
The jacket fronts were interfaced with scraps of black silk organza instead of fusible interfacing. Besides the choices I made to make the jacket my own, it was an easy construction...as always, I overthought the particulars but I'm happy with the end result...especially since it works so well with garments in my wardrobe...
...with my little black dress...
...with my black wool crepe pants...
...and with my black Burda pleated front skirt...
...nevermind the other three black skirts in my wardrobe. So this is my second Jacket of the Month..only 10 more to go to reach my goal of 12 this year! *LOL* And even though it's wool, it's perfect for the weather here now...because even though the calendar says spring...it's still around 30 degrees F. here on the East Coast.
...as always, more later!