Sunday, March 27, 2011

JAM #2 - Simplicity 2958

This is my second version of this jacket (if we don't include the black doubleknit wadder!) and I've changed up a few details for this one.  I really like this pattern because it has good bones...the ability to be reimagined into whatever I feel like...and I already have a third version on the drawing board in a nice silk for summer.  I love, love, love the raglan sleeves which are becoming a personal fave of mine for ease of movement, ability to fit and for the way they look on my plus size body!


Some stats:

Pattern:
Simplicity 2958

Fabric:
Italian doublefaced wool from Metro Textiles

Notions:
Bias binding made from fabric
scraps of black silk organza for interfacing
1.5 yards rayon seam binding
5 - 1" buttons
12" of 1/4" elastic

Construction:
As mentioned in the previous posts on this jacket, I've changed the jacket fronts so that they have a button front.  I've also omitted the collar in this version, too...although I really like the collar and it will probably make an appearance in a future jacket.


This jacket is unlined since the fabric is a doublefaced wool.  I could have used either the lighter side or the black side but I went with the darker side because it fits into my wardrobe.  I also thought about using flat felled seams and making the jacket reversible.  This idea stayed with me for quite awhile but when I went to construct the garment, that idea just wasn't speaking to me.  So the darker side became the predominant one.

The sleeve hems seemed wider and fuller than on this jacket...maybe it's because I made them longer and to be folded back on themselves last time.  For this version, I could have taken the sleeve seams in and slimmed them down but I wasn't feeling that.  Instead I remembered a Vogue pattern where the jacket's sleeves had an elastic casing in the hemline and I thought it would be an interesting look.  So I made a one inch casing and added the elastic to it.  I love this look and it's different from anything presently in my wardrobe.


I also didn't use any of the facings provided in the pattern envelope.  I wanted a clean finishing that wouldn't clash with the inside of the jacket.  After fishing around in my bias binding trims drawer, it hit me that I could reverse the fabric and make bias binding that would be perfect for the jacket.  Since the fabric is a little thick, it was challenging to make the bias binding.  I needed a lot of steam and a very liberal use of my clapper to get it to lay properly but it was worth the effort because I like the effect on the jacket front.


Alot of buttons were auditioned for the front of the jacket.  I wanted them to be as distinctive as the fabric yet able to hold their own.  I had these buttons in a black outer ring/white inner ring combination but they faded into the fabric where these stood out but still mimicked the pattern of the fabric that was rather kewl.  I also made the buttonholes so that they run vertically down the front of the jacket instead of horizontally.  Again, something a little different from the norm.


The jacket fronts were interfaced with scraps of black silk organza instead of fusible interfacing.  Besides the choices I made to make the jacket my own, it was an easy construction...as always, I overthought the particulars but I'm happy with the end result...especially since it works so well with garments in my wardrobe...

...with my little black dress...


...with my black wool crepe pants...


...and with my black Burda pleated front skirt...


...nevermind the other three black skirts in my wardrobe.  So this is my second Jacket of the Month..only 10 more to go to reach my goal of 12 this year! *LOL*  And even though it's wool, it's perfect for the weather here now...because even though the calendar says spring...it's still around 30 degrees F. here on the East Coast.

...as always, more later!


 

41 comments:

  1. Another awesome creation.

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  2. What can I say? There is usually nothing I don't like that you sew. You are such a great creative person. I love your jacket! What else can I say.

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  3. I love this jacket! It is beautiful. The print is great without being too much. Beautiful!

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  4. Love it! Suits you very well and the fabric print is gorgeous.

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  5. Fabulous jacket, I love the proportions. In that wonderful fabric it will add the wow factor to any outfit!

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  6. This is so cute, the fabric is wonderful.

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  7. What a great jacket! Interesting and fun while still looking grown up and sophisticated. Very nice!

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  8. Another beautiful jacket - love how it works with so much of your wardrobe....

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  9. Beautiful! I am lovin' this jacket - each of those 3 outfits is distinctive in itself, and the jacket lights it all up.

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  10. I love it with the pants!!

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  11. Love this jacket. Great fabric and goes with a lot of other garments so well.

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  12. That's very pretty. I commented on SG.

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  13. This is a great jacket, the print is fantastic, very eyecatching but still versatile.

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  14. You look dynamite in the jacket with the black pants!!!! Thank you for sharing your tips and tricks and "overthought"...don't we all do that?

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  15. Beautiful! I love it and it looks wonderful on you!

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  16. fabulous!
    Love the oversized polka dots and how you worked with them. I am sewing my first raglan-sleeved jacket now - such a cute style!
    I love black and white - it goes with everything,
    Enjoy!

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  17. OMG OMG OMG. I am feeling UBER love for this jacket!! It is just... PERFECT.

    OMG. That *fabric*!!! It's kinda polka dots, but it's THOUGHT BUBBLE polka dots!!!! And in wool!!!

    Be still my heart. But this is just perfection. :D

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  18. The jacket is beautiful and looks so good on you. You certainly have a killer wardrobe!

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  19. Wow, that's a keeper for sure. What a fabulous staple!

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  20. A beautiful jacket. Very chic and flattering!

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  21. I adore this jacket!!! The binding and buttons are perfect touches! All the combos look fantastic.

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  22. Love your blog Carolyn. These are real clothes for a real woman. So many of us can relate to this.

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  23. I love how you used this pattern to come up with your own unique design. Yes, it has some lovely bones to it. The jacket is kewl.

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  24. I forgot. I gave you a stylish blogger award.
    C

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  25. Another great jacket. Classic black and white, but the fabric is so unique and modern and I now wish I hadn't passed on a similar print (not a wonderful reversible wool like yours) fabric at G Street the other day. The reverse side of the fabric made a perfect coordinating trim.

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  26. I love how this one looks on you. I saw both sides of the fabric on flickr and thought they were amazing. I think the dark side does work best, though. You look fabulous!

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  27. I LOVE your black and white jacket.What great fabric for it. Just wonderful.

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  28. That is a fantastic jacket and goes really, really well with everything in your wardrobe. It has a little zing to it without being overbearing.

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  29. Wowza! You made some great choices in the construction of this jacket, Carolyn, and it shows. You look great in it.

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  30. Wonderful jacket. I love the contrasting bias binding, it's a nice touch!

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  31. Great jacket! Love your fabric choice!

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  32. I'm catching up on blog reading this afternoon, and, OH! I lOVE THIS!

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