Embellishing a Garment - Part 1

The other day, I was having a conversation with a friend about how I use trim and my ability to see it in a garment. So I decided that maybe I would share some info with you about how I think about embellishing garments and how I execute the look.

First a little background:

I have always liked trimmings. I know that I sneaked a piece of lace from my Grandma's stash to add to one of my original Barbie creations at 11! And I vividly remember learning about piping and how to apply it to a garment as a teenager. Does anyone else remember those Wright packages of trimmings? I used those for the longest time...

Several people have said to me that they think I use trim so much and so effectively because it is readily available to me through local resources, i.e., NYC Garment District. And while it is true that I do have some amazing resources, Daytona Trimmings, M&J Trimmings and Tinsel Trading as well as a host of bead and button shops, I truly believe that if you don't have an idea and a plan for how to use the trim, resources won't matter.

This first post will be about embellishment/trim books. Now you know that I am a huge believer in owning the right sewing book to get the job done. When I checked my sewing library I found that I had 13 books on some form of embellishment...how to apply it, techniques, inspiration, etc. A few are quilting titles, a few are technique driven, and a couple are totally inspirational. Almost all of my vintage sewing books offer a section on embellishment and even though the topic basically comprises one chapter of the book, they are chockful of information!

The following are my favorite top five embellishment books, in no particular order...

1. Embellishments A to Z

Author: Stephanie Valley; Published by Taunton Press

As the title says it goes through embellishment techniques from A to Z. It has large clear pictures, a project rating (easy to advanced), a supply list and some sewing techniques. This is a great how-to book and since it has a spiral binding it will lay flat next to your sewing machine if you want to follow along.

2. Make it Your Own - Personalizing Patterns for Creative Design

Authors: Lori Bottom & Ronda Chaney; Published by Chilton Book Company

There is a tag line on the back of the book that says, "No more cookie-cutter clothes" and I think that is the essence of this book. You are shown through pattern alterations how to change a pattern up and embellish the original look. Now this is not a use-trim to get an effect book but a pattern alteration manual that uses the pattern and fabric to enhance your garment.

3. The Great Put On

Authors: Lois Ericson, Linda Wakefield; self published

This book has a more Wearable Art feel but there are some interesting techniques in here that could be applied to a host of garment situations. I like this book because it is a really think outside the box book.

4. Designer Techniques Couture Tips for Home Sewing

Authors: Kenneth King; published by Sterling Publishing Company

This book is full of techniques that Kenneth has perfected in his design line. There are pictures as well as illustrations with step by step instructions. Just a wonderful book by a master of embellishment.

5. Fine Embellishment Techniques - Classic Details for Today's Clothing

Author: Jane Conlon; published by Taunton Press

This book concentrates on five types of embellishment - beading, threadwork, trims, applique and binding & pipings. There are great color photographs and clear illustrations with a lot of step by step instructions.

I highly recommend all of these books. After taking the time to read and ingest the information in these books, you will look at trims and embellishments in a completely different manner!

The other 8 books in my library are:

a. Embellishments - Adding Glamour to Garments by Linda Fry Kenzle

b. Fabulous Fabric Embellishments Elegant & Innovative Techniques by Mary Jo Hiney

c. Celtic Knotwork Designs by Sheila Sturrock

d. Weave It! Quilt It! Wear It! by Mary Anne Caplinger

e. Sew Easy Embellishments by Nancy Zieman

f. On the Surface by Wendy Hill

g. The Artful Ribbon by Candance Kling

h. The Art of Fabric Collage by Rosemary Eichorn

Now a few vintage book mentions:

Two are from Edna Bishop ~ Fashion Sewing by the Bishop Method & The Bishop Method of Clothing Construction - both have just one chapter on trimming the finished garment but the ideas that are shown are awe-inspiring, yet quite easy to accomplish...definitely not things you would see on today's clothing even the ones with a retro feel.

The last one is, Sewing Made Easy by Mary Lynch and Dorothy Sara. This book has three chapters on embellishing your clothing and again the embellishments just add so much to the finished garments.

Lastly a pretty new reference that I highly recommend is the latest issue of Sew Stylish Magazine that is all about embellishments! If you just want a taste of embellishing knowledge without a hefty investment, this is the way to go!

In my next post I will talk about when I choose to embellish a garment and some techniques I use.

So this is how it started...

My day that is...

I finally wore this twinset to work with one of my four pairs of black wool crepe pants! I know you are wondering what took me so long to wear it but I really only think of this as a "Casual Friday" outfit. Today was going to be a low-key day and I thought I could get away with it! It must have been low-key because now that I think about it every female except the Accounting Manager came in today with a twinset on...but I digress...on with the rest of my day...

I get off the A Train at Columbus Circle and head towards the Universal Newsstand and Dunkin' Donuts - I love their hot chocolate! I was going to the newsstand because I still don't have a March BWOF in my hot little hands and the owner promised they would be in today - NOT! However, they did have this:

And yes Marji I have one for you too!

And this:

Ohmygosh, the designers entire collections are in here...this is the London version so tomorrow I will be looking for the American version along with the elusive March BWOF...

After satisfying my magazine thirst, I mosey on down to DD and then with a heavy magazine bag, a medium hot chocky...I am off to the day job. Halfway through the morning, this shows up in my personal email account:

"Hey Carolyn,

Have you ever seen white on white seersucker?"

Now have you ever received an email that totally changes the course of your day?! How could 8 little words have me taking orders and spending way more time than I should on my cellphone during my lunch hour at Metro Textiles buying fabric!

Yeap, those words set a ball in motion that rolled down a hill and took prisoners...and you know who you are...cause being a L-A-D-Y, (said in my best Martin Lawrence/Shanana voice!) I'm not naming names but lets just say that Kashi was more than thrilled to fill my fabric orders today!

All of this fabric bonding did make my afternoon fly and before I knew it I was crammed on the bus hurtling down the NJ Turnpike towards home. I finally got a chance to peruse the Marfy catalogue and wonders of wonders there is a plus size jacket included in the free patterns! One that I should definitely try to make for spring...I really need to lose that Marfy virginity...hehehehehe!

Off the bus and home....groceries haven't been delivered yet...dang! I really didn't want to help put them away...snap a few pics in the outfit because I did look good! *LOL* And remember that another friend has been B-U-G-G-I-N-G me for pics of the fabric I bought at Paron's last Saturday....

Oh yeah, true confession time, I was in the city last Saturday with my youngest DD 'cause sometimes she just.must.shop at Macy's Herald Square...and we stopped at Parons on 40th Street just long enough for her to send a coupla text messages and take 2 or 3 phone calls. I mean a teenager's social life does not stop for luscious fabrics...y'know what I mean!

So I bought 4 yards of this silk black/white border print - just because it is beautiful...

And I got this ltwt silk print to use as lining fabric...

Okay pics all snapped...description up and blogged...I'm off to watch Lost!

My Name is Carolyn

And this is what it means:

What Carolyn Means

You are very open. You communicate well, and you connect with other people easily. You are a naturally creative person. Ideas just flow from your mind. A true chameleon, you are many things at different points in your life. You are very adaptable. You are usually the best at everything ... you strive for perfection. You are confident, authoritative, and aggressive. You have the classic "Type A" personality. You are wild, crazy, and a huge rebel. You're always up to something. You have a ton of energy, and most people can't handle you. You're very intense. You definitely are a handful, and you're likely to get in trouble. But your kind of trouble is a lot of fun. You are well rounded, with a complete perspective on life. You are solid and dependable. You are loyal, and people can count on you. At times, you can be a bit too serious. You tend to put too much pressure on yourself. You are relaxed, chill, and very likely to go with the flow. You are light hearted and accepting. You don't get worked up easily. Well adjusted and incredibly happy, many people wonder what your secret to life is. You are a free spirit, and you resent anyone who tries to fence you in. You are unpredictable, adventurous, and always a little surprising. You may miss out by not settling down, but you're too busy having fun to care. You are very intuitive and wise. You understand the world better than most people. You also have a very active imagination. You often get carried away with your thoughts. You are prone to a little paranoia and jealousy. You sometimes go overboard in interpreting signals.

What's" Your Name's Hidden Meaning?

You know alot of this is very true! BTW, I got this from Gaylen's blog, "GMarie Sews!"

And for a very "tell the truth" moment - head over to Marji's blog - "Fiber Arts Afloat a Misnomer", she is sharing some truth...so be ready for it!

Tonight is the conclusion to Project Runway - FINALLY! Like we haven't already figured out who won!

And soon, I will have pics of the acquisitions...but I'm telling you I need to get down to the down and dirty and sew something real soon! *LOL*

I put my toe in...

Well I dipped my toes back into the sewing pool...

The Menswear Lace Dress has been hanging and patiently waiting its turn since January 22nd. Y'know back when we all agreed that those decidedly unattractive sleeves sucked. At the time I received some great suggestions on how I could fix the sleeves and I was very intrigued with the possibilities.

But you know how it is, something hangs around long enough and it is no longer intriguing it is just something hanging over your head waiting to be finished. So I kept looking at it yesterday evening and it really started to bug me...because the dress is basically finished. It is just lounging around not pulling its weight in my closet and I needed something new to wear.

The weather was suppose to be decent today (in the mid to upper 50's) and I really want to wear some dresses before the next artic wind blows through so this dress had to come off the wall! The fastest and easiest solution was to dump the sleeves...so that's what I did! They weren't working and I didn't want to lose the dress to more hang time, so I serged the lining and fashion fabric together, turned them down 5/8", pressed and topstitched.

Wow! The dress was getting closer to wearable by the minute! Some hemtape to finish off the hemline, a couple of hand stitches to secure the lining to the vent and four hours and two TV movies after I got the bright idea to finish the dress, I was stitching the hem down by hand.

So this is how I looked after 13 hours of wearing it!

Not bad right?! One more of the front pleat:

Let me give you a few stats:

Pattern:

TNT Dress Pattern

Fabric:

Tropical wool blend menswear plaid from Metro Textiles & brown lace from Fabric Mart, lining fabric from stash

Notions:

22" taupe zipper

Rayon Hem tape

I made this one exactly like the grey version that I made earlier this year. The difference is the lace panel on the front. The panel was made by cutting a piece of lace slightly larger than the pleat. Then I tucked the lace under the pleat prior to sewing the pleat down. I used a triple stretch stitch to secure it and to allow the topstitching to show through. Though I think no one noticed the topstitching but me! At the bottom of the dress where the pleat falls open, I cut the lace close to the seam and left it alone...lace being lace, it doesn't need any finishing.

I wore it all day and the only thing I noticed was that the lining was sticking to my pantyhose...not something I would have been aware of during construction and nothing that a little Static Guard couldn't cure. Otherwise, it was a perfectly comfortable dress. Especially since I spent most of the afternoon bending and stretching as I located and moved files.

Now that I've finished a UFO, and gotten my toes wet, maybe I will sew something else! Stay Tuned because there is alot of fabric inspiration winging its way to me...hopefully something will beg me to morph it from its original shape into something new!

March Remnants

Today is March 1st and last month I sewed exactly two pieces...TWO PIECES! I haven't sewn so few pieces in one month in years...it is a little unsettling to realize how much "life" affected my passion!

1. Simplicity 3631

Yesterday, I wore the black version of Simplicity 3631 to work. I had a couple of meetings and wanted to look professional but comfortable...also it was Friday and our firm has a more "casual" dress code on Fridays...can I insert a "yeah right" here! *LOL*...and the dress/jumper was the perfect piece for the day.

However, it was the compliment that my 18 year old daughter gave me when I arrived home at 8:00 pm (Can I say that I am getting mighty tired of this...but that's another post for another time!) that really made my day! Whenever you can get a teenage daughter to exclaim that she loves an outfit, you know that you have really hit on something! Which brings me to my next point...

The Simplicity 3631 pattern is a wonderful, wonderful pattern.

I know that quite a few people have made the jacket - well there are 12 reviews for the jacket on PR and it made the #10 spot on The Best Patterns of 2007 article written by Diane Egleston - who is a friend of mine! And I have used the pattern quite effectively myself...a jacket, two dresses and a tank top have come from this pattern. I think of it fondly and probably will use it again for a spring/summer dress. I know some people have had problems with the dress but if you can get a copy made...it works wonderfully in a host of situations.

2. Fabric Accumulation

Now we all know that I have fabric issues...and of course when I'm not sewing, fabric seems to follow me home like children followed after the Pied Piper when he tooted that d*mn horn! *LOL* And lately Fabric Mart just hasn't been doing it for me...I am a little disturbed about this but maybe it's time that I show some fabric love to other internet sources! *LOL* Which is what I did last night!

I have been in love with this chocolate embroidered cotton since Ann of Gorgeous Things first put it on the site...last night I succumbed. Did you hear that Cidell, I have my piece! 4 yards cause, I want a full skirted shirt dress like Summerset's for spring! Can't you just see the embroidery on the edge of the skirt and short sleeves? Oooolalala goodness! Ann is having a sale for her first year anniversary - 24% off almost everything until tomorrow - March 2nd - so hurry over and buy something...she has AMAZING pieces!

And I placed my first time ever order with Sawyer Brook fabrics...now I've been getting their emails for years, but for some reason I've never bought anything from them...anyway, last night I bought this silk. It's called Village Stroll and it resembles the lining I did for the Simplicity 3631 jacket which had such a great impact, so 5 yards of this is coming to me.

Again, it's a piece that's been haunting me for most of the month of February. I got it to use as lining in a jacket and for a simple shell top. It will be placed with the last 5 yard piece of black wool crepe that I bought from Fabric Mart a couple of months ago. Probably won't see the light of day until fall but it will make a complete set and it made me happy!

I also picked up two rayon pieces for spring/summer dresses....

......This black and white piece

And this kewl retro 60s type print...

3. Spring Sewing

I am ready to begin sewing for spring! I think I am going to ditch most of my "List of things to Sew for Fall/Winter" and start concentrating on spring. 'Cause you know Easter is in 22 days!

Have a wonderful sewing weekend!

Yes, I am alive!

And no I haven't been sewing! *LOL*

I can't remember the last time I was this sick! The Dr's chart said 3.5 years ago so I guess he would know best! The flu-like symptoms turned into bronchitis and I ended up being out of work for a week and a half!

I can't remember the last time I was out of work that long and vacation wasn't involved! But, I'm back! Not sewing but at least I finally feel like myself and just wanted to let everyone know that I'm okay!

The UPS Guy Knows My Name

And if he doesn't ~ he should because more stuff came yesterday! Something from the UPS guy and stuff from the US Postal Service...

The car "Jammers" boxes arrived from http://www.spacesavers.com/:

And Cidell, they are exactly like my original ones...so I happily spent time filling these up and now my boxes look like this:

And the thread rack looks like this:

Before the last three boxes arrived, I had thread stuffed everywhere but now, everything is sorted by color and I have loads of space left! Time to get that Gutterman's thread chart out and order more colors! My goal is to have at least one spool of each color on the thread chart.

This also showed up yesterday! I love mail!

I know that the Butterick pattern site is running patterns for $5.99 until midnight tonight but I bought this one with my BMV club membership when it first hit the website. I really liked the pattern and thought that it would go great with the metallic linen...however, now that the two are both here, I have other plans for the metallic linen.

I am forcing myself to stay out of bed today...I am beginning to feel like I will never get better if I don't get up and move around...don't feel much like sewing but we'll see.

Hope you have a great sewing weekend!

Let It Snow, Let It Snow, Let It Snow!

Finally! Our first big snowfall of the year! It started snowing here around 1:00 am and it has been snowing steadily since then...it was suppose to change over to ice and rain but now they are predicting straight snow at least until 3-4 pm today. Then ice/rain/sleet mix until night when its back to snow.

Personally, I HATE snow! But its never really winter to me unless there is one heavy-duty, shut everything down, make everyone stay home snowfall...and it looks like this one is it! And thankfully I am home today, still trying to recover from this flu-like thing, I've got going on...so here are a few pics...

From my balcony:

From my kitchen window:

Let it snow, Let it snow, Let it snow!

The Lady of the Fabric

I am sure that you have all heard the stories about the little old ladies that have a house full of cats and people look at them strangely...'cause you can understand one or two cats to keep you company but 30 or 40...even if you can care for 30 or 40 cats why would you want to? But before all the animal activists come after me, I have a point...oblique...but a point!

I am becoming the little old lady with a house full of fabric...more arrived in the last two days and I am starting to wonder that if my daughters don't hear from me for a few days, they may come looking for me and find me buried under a pile of fabric. Or that my life's joy may become a bad YouTube video posted by a grandchild that just doesn't understand...

Yes, people its getting that serious!

24 more yards showed up in the last two days...now when I was purchasing it I wasn't thinking about where I was going to put it. I opened the door to the fabric closet today to shove more in and it ain't happening...it just ain't happening...I have reached capacity in the closet! I've got to find new storage space...IKEA here I come! *LOL*

Seriously though, it did give me pause. It made me stop and realize that I probably should stop stress buying fabric...y'know, having a bad day, flip into EOS or Fabric Mart and soothe the soul...wanna slap someone who is being particularly stupid at work, think about the fabric that should be arriving on my doorstep that afternoon.

Now it's not that I don't have ideas for what I purchased 'cause I always have ideas! Nor will any of my children go hungry or bills be unpaid...more pause because I really don't want to end up as the little old lady with a house full of fabric.

Now don't bombard me with the don't buy no more fabric stories, pleas, etc. I am solidly in the camp of having a lot of inspiration and fabric is definitely inspiration to me. I am just saying that I probably need to stay off the fabric sites for a minute...and find a really B-I-G cabinet at IKEA! So Shannon, you don't have to worry...I haven't abandoned the Sisterhood of Fabricaholics...I just need to find another way to relieve stress...or find another job! *LOL*

Here is a real bad pic of what came in the last few days...

and I would like to thank Linda at Emmaonesock, Melody at Fashionista Fabrics and Marsha at Textile Studios for being stress relievers last week and helping me to hold onto my crown as "The Lady of the Fabric!"

I have been radio silent...

I know that you've been wondering where I've been 'cause I've been radio silent for over a week...which is so totally unlike me! But work was just overwhelming the last two weeks and believe it or not I had no desire to sew! Even a looming three-day weekend did nothing to ignite my desire and I'm sure it didn't help that I was tired and catching a cold.

However, I did manage to turn my mind from work related things so several posts follow on just general sewing information and finally yesterday afternoon I dragged myself out of bed to make the twinset described in the next few posts. After I get off the computer, I am going to cut out another one because they are simple fast sews with a lot of bang for the buck! They will also add some color to my winter wardrobe that I am just SICK, SICK, SICK of wearing!

The Barrie Pace jacket is hanging and I will get back to it next weekend. I have had some time to think about the construction challenges and I will address them now that I have a plan. I will also work on the coordinating dress for the jacket maybe before I finish the jacket since it will provide incentive to get the danged thing done.

And I am borrowing Summerset's closing shot:

My thread on the thread rack looking amazing in all of its colors! Several people did send me a link to www.spacesavers.com where the car cases can be purchased. I have an order in for three more and we just won't talk about the fabric that I have ordered in the last few days trying to get my sewing mojo back!

I hope you enjoy the following posts, a pic of me actually wearing the twinset will surface soon....and I'm back! *LOL*

The Cardigan to the Twinset

Now you know that I didn't just make a tank top without a covering piece! I don't like my bodacious arms that much! *LOL* For the cardigan I used my TNT Burda pattern 8869 and the only changes made to the pattern were done to enhance the border print fabric.

The fabric is the same as the SW Mission Tank. The sleeves were cut using the tile border print for the sleeve hems. The center front band was cut using the tile border print allowing it to coordinate with the tank top.

Construction Changes:

I did not interface the back neckline of the band. This was so that it the band would be softer in that area and lay flat against my neck.

I did interface the band fronts and on the button side added another strip of interfacing for the weight of the buttons. This is a light weight knit and the buttons are a little heavy so I did not want them to pull the fabric down. Hopefully by adding the double strip of fusible interfacing to the button side will solve this issue. However, after laying the buttons down on the finished cardigan, I noticed that they just faded to the back and my Panamanian buttons are just too special to go unnoticed. As of right now, the cardigan is buttonless. I will wear it to work without them to see how it wears and if I really need buttons then I will find something that will not fade into the background of this very busy print.

Other than using a crosswise grain to cut the fabric out and take advantage of the border print and the interfacing issues, there were no additional construction techniques. I did add a 1/4" shoulder pad to help balance the top and bottom of my figure out.

And a few pictures...

The border print sleeve

Cardigan alone

Twinset together

How I'm going to wear it to work...

I am working on one more of these using this red knit fabric from Fabric.com

It's about all I am able to sew right now! But at least the desire is back.

Oooops I Did It Again!

Used a TNT pattern that is...

The Pattern:

Sewing Workshop Mission Tank

Fabric:

Purchased from Emmaonesock - here is the description ~ From Jones NY, this is a lovely knit, very drapey and silky with 2-way stretch, and the print is beautiful medallion design with a double border (each border is about 4" wide). The colors are paprika (18-1447), a super-dark espresso-black, with ivory highlights. Lighter weight, opaque, great stretch recovery, nylon/lycra blend, 57" wide.

Changes to Pattern:

I added a bowtie to the neckline of the tank top. I also used a knit fabric for this pattern which was originally drafted for a woven fabric.

Backstory:

This is my FAVORITE tank top pattern that I have made a gazillion times in all types of fabrications. I have made it from a wool/cashmere/lycra blend, a silk duppioni, linen, and several smooth silk fabrics in solids and prints. This pattern is such a hardworking piece in my wardrobe because it goes so well with my suited looks as well as my business casual ones.

I know that blouses are back and are all the rave right now but I need a top that doesn't tuck in yet still gives me a professional appearance. This tank top pattern and subsequent renditions fit my wardrobing needs perfectly.

For this tank, the Fall 2007 Sew Stylish Magazine that featured Simplicity 3631 on its cover, influenced the tie decision. The instructions in the magazine on how to add a tie to a top made from the dress pattern, is the inspiration for this garment. This inspiration has shown up in my sewing before, when I made this dress using the instructions in the Sew Stylish issue.

Construction Details:

First to construct the tie, I did not use the measurements provided in the article. I knew that I wanted the tie to be comprised of just the border tile print so I carefully cut it out. However, since I was squeezing two garments out of three yards of fabric and the pieces were cut on the crosswise grain to take advantage of the border print, I had to piece together leftover sections to get enough length for the tie. Thank goodness it is a busy print so that you can't see where the piecing is.

The other important construction tidbit is that when the tie is first sewn to the neckline of the tank, I added a flexible twill tape that Nancy's Notions sells to the seamline. This was done for two reasons - to provide stability to the neckline and to stop it from stretching during wearing. I have to admit that I was a little concerned after I applied it because I wanted to make sure that the top still went over my head easily and it did!

There is one other construction detail to note in this top. The original SW Mission Tank has a rounded neckline. As instructed in the Sew Stylish Magazine an alteration needs to be made to the neckline to lengthen it before adding the tie. I did this by folding down 1" at the center front and gradually folding less until it got to the front curve. Since a picture is worth a 1000 words, I will include one...

Otherwise the tie was applied using the Sew Stylish directions. Finally, I know most sewists apply Steam A Seam 2 to the hems of their knit garments but my preference is stitch witchery. Maybe its because I buy a lighter version of it from Steinlauf & Stoller (on a 50 yard roll) that doesn't give that heavy, hard appearance to the hem that the packaged version of stitch witchery does. Or maybe I've just gotten use to it...but that is what I use to seal the hems closed before I topstitch them.

I love the fit on this top and I especially love the funky print. It is not really a "corporate" type print but it will work well on Casual Fridays or down time work days. However, it is me and I'm thrilled to have finally been able to make a "truly me" piece for my work wardrobe.

Jean Louis Bertrault

I love old movies and three of my favorite star Lana Turner...

*Imitation of Life

*Madame X

*Portrait in Black

One of the reasons that I love these movies so much (besides the wonderful stories and Ms. Turner's acting) are the clothes. In Imitation of Life, she wears this amazing short sleeve top and pants with a lightly flowing long skirt over it in the scene in her Connecticut home. I can see the outfit in my mind's eye because it is so wonderful!

In Madame X, even though Ms. Turner is a stay at home Mom waiting on her diplomat husband, she is elegantly turned out in beautiful two piece suits, a 2 strand set of pearls and always perfectly coiffed. Many times I've stopped the movie just to gaze at an outfit she was wearing to memorize the details.

So what does this have to do with Jean Louis Bertrault? Well he was the costume designer for many of her films and especially for Madame X. Since they were finally releasing Madame X on DVD, I went in search of more information on Jean Louis Bertrault who designed in Hollywood under the name Jean Louis. And to my surprise, the internet held very little information on him. I couldn't find any biographies written about him and only a few "solid" references.

One in Wikipedia - that gives these bare bone facts about him:

Jean Louis (born Jean Louis Berthauldt, October 5, 1907, Paris, France - April 20, 1997, Palm Springs, California, USA) was a French costume designer and multiple Academy Award nominee in Costume Design. His most famous works include Rita Hayworth's black satin strapless dress from Gilda (1946), Marlene Dietrich's celebrated stagewear on her cabaret world tours, as well as the sheer, sparkling gown Marilyn Monroe wore when she sang "Happy Birthday, Mr. President" to John F. Kennedy in 1962. In 1993, six years after the death of his first wife, Louis married former client Loretta Young.

Academy Award Nominations
1950 - Film: Born Yesterday
1952 - Film: Affair in Trinidad
1953 - Film: From Here to Eternity
1954 - Film: It Should Happen To You
1954 - Film: A Star Is Born
1955 - Film: Queen Bee
1957 - Film: Pal Joey
1958 - Film: Bell, Book and Candle
1961 - Film: Judgment at Nuremberg
1961 - Film: Back Street
1965 - Film: Ship of Fools
1966 - Film: Gambit
1967 - Film: Thoroughly Modern Millie

Actresses Designed For
Rita Hayworth in Tonight and Every Night, 1945, Gilda, 1946, Affair in Trinidad, 1952, and Salome, 1953
Judy Holliday in Born Yesterday, 1950 and The Solid Gold Cadillac, 1956
Gloria Grahame in The Big Heat, 1953
Deborah Kerr in From Here to Eternity, 1953
Judy Garland in A Star is Born, 1954
Joan Crawford in Queen Bee, 1955
Kim Novak in Picnic, 1955, and Bell, Book, and Candle, 1958
Kim Novak and Rita Hayworth in Pal Joey, 1957
Lana Turner in Imitation of Life, 1959
Doris Day in Pillow Talk (1959) and Send Me No Flowers (1964)
Marlene Dietrich in The Monte Carlo Story, 1957, and Judgement at Nuremberg, 1961
Marilyn Monroe in The Misfits, 1961, and Something's Got to Give (unfinished), 1962
Shirley MacLaine in Gambit, 1966
Julie Andrews, Mary Tyler Moore, and Carol Channing in Thoroughly Modern Millie, 1967

And this information, doesn't even list that he designed the gowns in Madame X which it clearly states in the opening credits of the movie.

On the Academy Awards site, you can learn that he was nominated 14 times for Best Costume Design and actually won an Oscar in 1956 for the movie, "The Solid Gold Cadillac", which was filmed in black and white.

He also worked in Hollywood during the time that one of my other favorite costume designers worked there, Miss Edith Head. Of which there are several biographies and she even appeared in a couple of movies...however, as stated before there are no biographies about him, no link upon link on the internet...just the information from Wikipedia, the Academy Award site, the Turner Classic Movie website and a much more detailed costume listing on IMDb.

To me it is a little unsettling, that an Academy Award winner who dressed some of Hollywood's leading ladies during the 30s, 40s, 50s and 60s, is such an unsung personality. So I wanted to do a brief homage to one of Hollywood's finest costume designers...Jean Louis!

And to a little girl who learned to sew when she was 11 and found out at 13, that people actually had careers making those wonderful outfits in classic Hollywood movies, then found a few Vogue patterns by Edith Head, and who watched the "boring" part of the Academy Awards every year to see who the Best Costume Designer was...he is a man of legend!

If you get a chance, check out the fabulous Lana Turner in the movies listed above, especially as Holly Parker in Madame X. Bring your tissues...the ending will make you weep, it is a three tissue picture!

How I Take Measurements

Several years ago, I attended the Worcester Sewing Expo with my friend Lisa. I took almost two full days of sewing classes with Cynthia Guffey and after those classes my sewing changed dramatically. One of the reasons was because I took a class on measuring your body and purchased Cynthia's book, "Precision Measuring & Pattern Alterations for Bodice, Skirt, Jacket." Lisa and I spent an entire afternoon after the Expo, measuring each other so that we both ended up with a complete set of measurements.

I use this list of measurements whenever I start a new pattern...comparing the flat measurements of the pattern to my measurements and then making changes to the patterns based upon those measurements. I rarely have a fitting issue with a garment when I take the time to compare the numbers and alter the pattern pieces. So I thought I would share this information here and encourage you to visit Cynthia's site and purchase her books and DVDs! To me they are worth every penny and will definitely take your sewing to another level!

Here is her opening paragraph to the book on Precision Measuring (copyright 1995):

"Accurate measurements are the first step in assuring proper fit. This booklet illustrates a basic measuring process plus jacket measuring techniques. There are separate charts for each with descriptions and measurements. You will need a partner to take your measurements. Even if they do not have a sewing background you can instruct them on what to do. If this is the case, select someone who is patient, knows how to listen, and can follow instructions."

And a few more of Cynthia's salient points:

- For a jacket take the measurements fully dressed

-Measure the waist and hip area over a skirt or pants this helps to eliminate guessing about the amount of wearing ease

-She stresses the importance of making a muslin and including the sleeves...mark the center front lines, waistline - front and back, and any pocket placement

-transferring a proper set of measurements to the pattern in the beginning should yield a muslin that needs few, if any adjustments

But I love this sentence:
"By following the system that is outlined, you can achieve beautifully fitting, comfortable clothing!"

Here is the list of measurements:

Shoulder Width:
Finished Shoulder Width:
Shoulder Slope:
Upper Back Curve:
Back Waist Length:
Sleeve Length:
To wrist - both right and left wrists
To elbow - both right and left
Circumference of Upper Arm (bicep) both right and left
Circumference of Forearm - both right and left
Circumference of wrist - both right and left
Back Bustline Area:
Front Bust:
Shoulder to Bust Apex:
Shoulder across bust apex to waist:
Right side to floor:
Left side to floor:
Center to floor:
Back waist width:
Front waist width:
Back hip width at 2" below:
Back hip width at 4" below:
Back hip width at 6" below:
Back hip width at 8" below:
Front hip width at 2" below:
Front hip width at 4" below:
Front hip width at 6" below:
Front hip width at 8" below:
Front Widest hip point at _______"
Back Widest hip point at _______"
Finished skirt length:
Finished jacket length from back base of neck:

This will take awhile to complete but you when you've taken the entire set you will be able to compare them to your pattern pieces and get a much more accurate fit.

I hope that you will take the time to measure yourself via the Cynthia Guffey measuring system! I am sure that you will be more than satisfied with the resulting garments made using her system. To me, she is a sewing goddess and has such wonderful information and sewing revelation! And yes, I am a bona fide Guffeyite!

Can I be any further removed?

http://www.fashionweekdaily.com/home/default.sps

It's 9:26 pm on a Friday night. I have been home for approximately one hour. Most of that time I have been reading blogs - gotta lot of catching up to do - when I get to Ann's (Gorgeous Things) blog....and I want to cry!

Not because she spent a day in NY! Not because she got to go to a show in the tents! I have done that and remember the thrill of sitting in the audience and feeling so special because I was there...and Cindy did you go yet? Did you have a good time?

No, I wanted to cry because it's Friday, Fashion Week is officially over and I haven't thought about it once...okay maybe just thought about it quickly...once or twice this week when I was on the 6:17 am bus to NYC whilst looking over someone's shoulder at their paper!

Now I know you are all shaking your head and wondering what is the big deal? Well, I love fashion! I majored in Fashion Merchandising in college. I have worked in and out of the fashion industry up until the last 9 or 10 years. At my last job, financial institution also, I at least took the bus up and down 42nd Street so I got to watch the tents go up...and at lunch time I could head over to pick up the daily papers. I also made sure that I picked up a newspaper so that I could see what the fashion editors thought was hot!

But have I done any of that this week....nooooooo! I haven't thought about fashion. I haven't looked at fashion and I d*mn sure haven't sewn anything! Now there is definitely something wrong with this situation...when did my life become all about a job! *sigh* It is more than time to re-evaluate my priorities!

So I guess I will spend a lot of time this weekend on Style.com and the Mercedes Benz Fashion Week site trying to catch up with what will be hot for fall '08...but this is sad people, just sad...

No sewing going on here...

I mean I have to go to work every day and sometimes work gets really busy - out of the house at 5:45 am back in the house at 8 or 9 pm so there just isn't much sewing going on...

However, there is purchasing going on...well that is one of the reasons that I put with the hellish hours to make money to buy sewing stuff and oh yeah, to have a place to put it! *LOL*

Here's what came yesterday:

Yeap, my ATS order arrived lickety split! Now I have thread but no where to put it!

I only own two of these thread holders (toy car carriers purchased from Wal-Marts - who no longer makes them!) and I think I am going to have to investigate finding something else like them because I love these things!

I also got this today:

Now what does this movie have to do with sewing? If you can get your hands on a copy, rent it. Lana Turner wears some amazing outfits in this movie and I just love them! It kinda goes with the Oleg Cassini book, "A Thousand Days of Magic" that I keep thumbing through and drooling over!

Finally, I hardly ever look at the New Look patterns because usually they are only graded up only to a size 18. So imagine my surprise when I found these two in a size 22!

New Look 6779

New Look 6788

I immediately put them in the shopping cart and bought them...so they are winging their way to me as we speak. They should make cute summer work outfits, right?!

I did baste the collar onto the Barrie Pace jacket and I have to admit that after a couple of days of seeing the collar on the jacket, I am inspired to finish it. It will be a cute jacket, will go with several dresses already in my wardrobe, as well as, and the dress that I want to make!

I probably won't be blog again until the weekend, work is just that crazy! Hopefully I can get that jacket finished and in wearable shape so that I can move on! I'm really ready to move on! *LOL*

Giants 17, Patriots 14

Ohmygod! They did it! Did you hear the screaming from my house!

My Barrie Pace Jacket

This is an excerpt from an email that I sent to Marji earlier today:

"I am slowly sewing. This pattern may be a TNT but now after replacing the sleeves 3x, I know why I stopped using the pattern. The sleeve pattern is drafted poorly which makes it terrible to work with...they are in but not great and I am just not taking them out again. This is one of those times when I wish I did know how to draft patterns because I would just make another one...

This will be an amazing jacket when it's finished and will work so well with garments that are already in my closet as well as the coordinating dress I want to make...but the work of it is beating me down. I don't have much joy in the process...I understand how people stop sewing. If I didn't realize that I had skills I would toss it and walk away from sewing...so I am sewing in fits and starts.

Also the other jacket has all of these issues resolved and I did not write down anywhere how I solved them...that's what happens when you go to finish a 7 year old UFO...and probably why the shoulder seams were left a little wide...I am sure that I was disgusted with the sleeve issue and couldn't handle any more. I was a lot less patient with my sewing back then than I am now...

I have the buttons and the piping trim for the UFO jacket...have decided to just omit the collar, it will make a huge difference between the two jackets...but I need lining. Any way all of this is making me sad and slow which in turn is making me crazy because sewing is suppose to be my escape from my job and this is turning into work! I am really slogging to get this jacket finished. You would think that I would just move onto something else but I am truly afraid that if I put it down, it will be another 7 years before it is finished. So I gotta make this work!

Sometime today, I will cut out the lining fabric and sew it together and begin the job of inserting it into the jacket. Again, something I'm not looking forward to because I feel that lining jackets well is not my strong suit and I'm worried that it won't look good."

That was earlier today...here is the lining basted in before adding the collar...

This is why you haven't heard from me or seen a completed garment...there is no joy in Carolyn's Sewing World! This pattern is truly kickin' my behind! After these last two jackets it will get relegated to the "Never Use Again!" pattern pile!

Now to answer a few questions...

Vicki asked:

Couldn't you have just undone the sleeves and interfaced them?

Nah...the interfacing would have shrunk the fabric just enough to make the sleeves too tight for my bodacious biceps! I have to fuse the interfacing to the fabric prior to cutting it out. So I had to cut out new sleeves and start again!

Is this the same thread that Gutermann sells on those 110 yds spools?

Yes, it is. Now Atlanta Thread has a sliding scale...1-29 spools is $2.80 per spool; 30 or more is $2.66 per spool and 50 or more is $2.49 per spool. I have a thread chart that I purchased from ATS and I pick colors from the chart. I am trying to own a spool of thread in every color they own. However, I buy basics first and then add additional colors.

Sheila asked:

The Emmaonesock fabric is gorgeous, maybe I missed a post, what will you make with the fabric...?

I bought that a few weeks ago and never posted about it. I flipped into the EOS site one day at work (more stress buying - but I only got one 3-yard piece) saw it and bought it...just enough to make a cardigan...which I will get to sometime! *LOL*

So that's my update! Go Giants!

Remnants

• Thread

I placed a thread order today from Atlanta Thread and Supply. It is not as exhilerating or fun as buying fabric but it is a necessity...no thread...no sew! So 30 spools of 1100 yards each for $2.66 per spool are on their way to my sewing atelier (okay, apartment!) I did stop for a moment and think about purchasing the 5000 yard cone, but the difficulty of making bobbins with my sidewinder and threading my sewing machine stopped me.

• SWAPS

I can't believe that I'm not Swapping this year. Something doesn't seem right with the universe?! I have to admit that after Summerset and Shannon published their storyboards, I began to question my decision, but I just can't SWAP right now. I will have to stand on the sidelines and cheer everyone on!

• Sewing Gifts

These came in the mail yesterday from a dear friend...okay, the buttons are all the way from Panama - purchased by the one and only too-kewl to be real, Cidell!


And don't they go just fabulously with this fabric from Emmaonesock!

• Jacket Progress or lack thereof

As I stated in my previous jacket post, I did not fuse interfacing to the sleeve pieces because I decided that I liked the fused look AFTER I cut my pieces out. However, look how poorly these sleeves are compared to the rest of the jacket!

This terrible look forced me to recut the sleeves from the remaining fabric AFTER block fusing the fabric! Now, I'm praying that I have enough fabric remaining to make the coordinating dress.

• So will she or won't she?

Why sew this weekend or not...I don't actually know. I have some errands to do and I think I am going to have to just give up and spend some quality time at the hairdressers. Oh how I loathe to waste the amount of time I will waste there just to get beautiforius hair! And I need to get a new bookcase - I am really tired of those piles of magazines that are hanging out in my living room! Instead I would rather be working on and finishing up those two "inspired by" pieces...

• Divine Inspiration

Lastly, check out this NY Times article, "The Newly Uptight". Terri K posted this to a folder on Stitchers Guild. It is a really interesting article about how proper, gracious dressing is returning. Personally it sounds like the designers have made the rounds of sewists blogs and have been inspired by us! *LOL*

As always I will keep you updated on what's going on in "Carolyn's World!" Hope you have a wonderful sewing weekend...and whoever has the snow that's suppose to be in the Mid-Atlantic states, would you please send it back?! I NEED a snow day! *LOL*